’ve just barely opened my eyes and am slowly having my first sips of morning tea and then I hear it. The high-pitched whine and rhythmical, repetitive smacking of a small craft on the surface of the water – the jetskis are here. All too quickly the bliss of our millpond-still anchorage, off a white sand beach fringed with coconut palms, leading down to a clear turquoise sea with a healthy coral reef is shattered by the ubiquitous scourge of paradise: the
