The Highland Clearances Trail

By Rob Gibson

The Highland Clearances Trail answers the where, why, what and whens of the Highland Clearances. Taking you around the significant sites of the Highland Clearances this vivid guide gives a scholarly introduction to a tragic moment in Scotland's history. Perthshire, Ross-Shire, Arran, Sutherland and Caithness are among the many areas covered. With full background information supplied, along with maps and illustrations, The Highland Clearances Trail provides an alternative route around the Highlands that will leave the reader with a deeper understanding of this sublime landscape.

• Language: English
• Publisher: Luath Press
• Release date: May 15, 2020
• ISBN: 9781913025854

Rob Gibson

Rob Gibson, author and musician, political campaigner and ex-MSP, has a unique ability to evoke and capture emotion and a sense of time and place. Rob has conducted research into sites across the Highlands that have connections with the Clearances and has created an atmospheric trail for visitors to follow.

Book preview

ROB GIBSON was born in Glasgow and brought up in Dennistoun, and now lives in Evanton, Easter Ross. His early interest in Scottish history has encompassed both Highland hillwalking and land reform. In 1972 he graduated from Dundee University with a degree in Modern History and, until 1995, pursued a teaching career in Easter Ross. Through his love of traditional music he has convened the Dingwall-based Highland Traditional Music Festival for twenty years and he has sung in several groups. Currently with the band Ceilidh Ménage, he has performed at festivals in Scotland and Brittany. He wrote the show Plaids and Bandanas for performance at the Highland Festival of 1998.

Rob’s interest in land issues has led to an active political life including working for eight years from 1988 as an SNP District Councillor in Ross and Cromarty. In 2003 he was elected as SNP MSP for Highlands and Islands, and has been an enthusiastic member of the Environment and Rural Development Committee. He has contributed to various journals over the years and has published several books including The Promised Land; Crofter Power in Easter Ross; Toppling the Duke: Outrage on Ben Bhraggie? and Plaids and Bandanas: From Highland Drover to Wild West Cowboy.

First published by Highland Heritage Educational Trust, 1983

This Edition 2006

Reprinted 2006

Reprinted 2007

Reprinted 2008

Reprinted 2009

Reprinted 2010

Reprinted 2012

eISBN: 978-1-913025-85-4

The paper used in this book is recyclable. It is made from low chlorine pulps produced in a low energy, low emissions manner from renewable forests.

Printed and bound by Bell & Bain Ltd., Glasgow

Map by Jim Lewis

Illustrations by James Dunn and Marilyn Kay

Typeset in 10.5pt Sabon by

3btype.com

The author’s right to be identified as author of this book under the Copyright, Designs and Patents Acts 1988 has been asserted.

© Rob Gibson

Dedicated to the late Sandy Lindsay who inspired many to study the effects of the Clearances on modern Scotland. His posthumous foreword encapsulates the spirit of this guide.

MAPS, HEIGHT & DISTANCE

Ordnance Survey grid references have been checked from 1:50000 editions. Data has been checked at the time of publication. Scotland’s historic counties do not fit the current boundaries of local authorities. Since the Land Registers of Scotland are based on the 33 historic counties, this guide follows that model with areas measured in acres. Heights are given in metres as per Ordnance Survey practice and distances are measured in miles as on road signs.

TRAVEL

Travel around the Highlands and Islands needs to be well planned especially where ferries have to be caught. I have assumed road transport in the main although that can be copied and extended by bike. Rail routes on the north/south spine and eastern and western branches have much to recommend them. The traveller with limited time or budget can benefit from hopscotch ferry tickets by CalMac ferries and rail rover tickets. Bus services and post buses are important social links that reach most corners, though isolated glens are difficult to access by public transport. For all areas of the country you can start with the VisitScotland website at www.visitscotland.com

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

I wish to thank various informants who have given valuable advice over the years in preparing this guide. Frank G Thompson of Stornoway, the late Joseph Mackay of Lairg, Katharine Stewart of Abriachan, Willie Orr of Oban, the late Sandy Lindsay of Kingussie, Dr Ian Glen of Dalnavert, Alan Roydhouse, Bob Mulholland of Farr by Inverness and the late Joan Fraser of Corstorphine deserve particular thanks. Many thanks to James Dunn and Marilyn Kay for the line drawings.

Contents

Map

Foreword

Introduction

CHAPTER 1 Sutherland and Caithness

CHAPTER 2 Mainland Ross-shire

CHAPTER 3 Strath Glass, Glen Moriston, Glenelg and Kintail

CHAPTER 4 Skye and Raasay

CHAPTER 5 Harris and Lewis

CHAPTER 6 Inverness, Strathnairn, Lochaber, Morvern, Mull and Moidart

CHAPTER 7 The Small Isles

CHAPTER 8 North and South Uist, Benbecula and Barra

CHAPTER 9 Argyll including Tiree, Coll and Islay

CHAPTER 10 Arran

CHAPTER 11 Perthshire

CHAPTER 12 Strathspey and Badenoch

CHAPTER 13 Deeside and Angus Glens

CHAPTER 14 Orkney

CHAPTER 15 Shetland

Bibliography

Map index

1.1 Strath of Kildonan, Sutherland

1.2 Helmsdale

1.3 Gartymore Land League cairn

1.4 Loth

1.5 James Loch statue, Uppat Wood

1.6 Dunrobin Castle

1.7 Duke of Sutherland statue, Ben Bhraggie

1.8 The Mound

1.9 Loch Assynt

1.10 North Assynt Crofters’ Estate

1.11 Balnakeil House, Durness

1.12 Ceannabeinne

1.13 Laid

1.14 Ewen Robertson Monument, near Tongue

1.15 Alltnacaillich

1.16 Strathnaver

AAchanlochy

BDunviden

CRosal

DDonald MacLeod plaque

EAchadh an Eas

FGrumbeg

GGrummore

HPatrick Sellar’s House, Syre

1.17 Strathnaver Museum, Bettyhill

1.18 Reay, Caithness

1.19 Dunnet

1.20 Freswick

1.21 Lybster

1.22 Badfern

1.23 Badbea

2.1 Lovat Bridge / Stock Ford of Ross

2.2 Killearnan, Ross-shire

2.3 Drynie Park

2.4 Heights of Dochcarty

2.5 Gower Crofts, Knockfarrel

2.6 Strathconon

2.7 New Kelso

2.8 Slumbay, Lochcarron

2.9 Applecross

2.10 Diabeg

2.11 North Erradale, Gairloch

2.12 Laide and Gruinard

2.13 Scoraig

2.14 Destitution Road, Dundonnell

2.15 Leckmelm

2.16 Museum, Ullapool

2.17 Coigach

2.18 Culrain, Strath Oykell

2.19 Croick Church, Strathcarron

2.20 Greenyards

2.21 Boath, Strathrusdale

2.22 Cnoc Fyrish, monument

2.23 Clare, Strath Skiach

3.1 Abriachan, Inverness-shire

3.2 Old Parish Church, Kilmorack

3.3 Urchany

3.4 Strath Farrar

3.5 Glen Cannich

3.6 Tomich to Torgyle drove road

3.7 Shiel Bridge

3.8 Duncraig Castle, Plockton

3.9 Glenelg

4.1 Armadale, Skye

4.2 Kyleakin

4.3 Suishnish and Borreraig

4.4 Strollamus

4.5 Raasay

4.6 Braes Land League Cairn

4.7 Drynoch

4.8 Bracadale

4.9 Colbost Blackhouse Museum

4.10 Glendale Land League Monument

4.11 Glendale Free Church

4.12 Lorgill and Ramasaig

4.13 Orbost

AIdrigill

BGlen Bharcasaig

COllisdal

DDibidal

4.14 Fairy Bridge, Dunvegan

4.15 Kingsburgh, Trotternish

4.16 Kilmuir

4.17 Valtos and Ellishader, Staffin

5.1 Amhuinnsuidhe

5.2 Tarbert, Harris

5.3 Bays of Harris

5.4 Balallan, Lewis

5.5 Bernera, Uig

5.6 Aignish

5.7 Gress

6.1 Tolbooth, Inverness

6.2 Crochy

6.3 Glen Garry

6.4 Achnacarry

6.5 Coirechoille

6.6 Aoineadh Mor, Morvern

6.7 Lochaline

6.8 Auliston

6.9 Shiaba, Ross of Mull

6.10 Ulva

6.11 Crackaig

6.12 Calgary Bay

6.13 Dervaig & Tobermory

6.14 Ardnamurchan

6.15 Moidart

6.16 Kinloid, Arisaig

6.17 Inverie, Knoydart

7.1 Rum

7.2 Canna

7.3 Eigg

7.4 Muck

8.1 Solas, North Uist

8.2 Lochmaddy

8.3 Balelone Farm

8.4 South Uist

8.5 Barra and Vatersay

9.1 Tiree, Argyll

9.2 Coll

9.3 Glenorchy

9.4 Glen Shira, Inveraray

9.5 Arichonan

9.6 Kilchiaran, Islay

9.7 Mull of Oa, Islay

9.8 Cnocbreac, Jura

9.9 Gigha

9.10 Colonsay

9.11 Mull of Kintyre

10.1 North Glen Sannox, Arran

10.2 Laggantuin

10.3 Cock Farm, Lochranza

10.4 Catacol

10.5 Arran Heritage Museum, Brodick

10.6 Emigration cairn, Lamlash

10.7 Kilmory Water

10.8 Sliddery Water

11.1 Loch Tay, Perthshire

11.2 Glen Quaich

11.3 Black Wood of Rannoch

11.4 Clan Donnachaidh Museum, Bruar

11.5 Glen Tilt

11.6 Glen Fincastle

11.7 Straloch

12.1 Loch Garry, Drumochter

12.2 Laggan, Strath Mashie

12.3 Glen Banchor, Newtonmore

12.4 Turus Tim Folk Park

12.5 Highland Folk Museum, Kingussie

12.6 Glen Feshie and Gaick

12.7 Glenmore

12.8 Boat of Garten

13.1 Baddoch, Deeside

13.2 Luibeg

13.3 Glen Dee

13.4 Glen Ey

13.5 Glen Gelder

13.6 Glen Tannar

13.7 Glen Mark and Glen Lee, Angus

14.1 Hoy, Orkney

14.2 Rousay

15.1 Garth, Shetland

15.2 Lerwick

15.3 Fetlar

Foreword

THIS BOOK IS A brief but scholarly introduction to the most tragic period in the history of Scotland. It illustrates ‘man’s inhumanity to man’ in that, given powers over their fellow men, those in positions of authority care solely for their own wealth and wellbeing.

This period has real importance in that the Gaelic people were regarded as inferior. The destruction of their language, culture and way of life was regarded as no more important that that of any native people in the British Empire. Recently the Daily Telegraph, a long-established English newspaper, through one of its columnists, the late Auberon Waugh, made this aspect very clear. I am pleased that Rob Gibson should bring this to our notice.

It is a simple matter of fact that the education establishment choses to ignore this chapter in our history, and demonstrates that Scottish education in this matter has failed our communities. This book goes some way to redress this lack of information. In practical terms those interested in the reality of historical crime can follow the Clearances Trail to the various significant locations described here.

Se Firinn Is Ceartas a Sheasas – Truth and justice will prevail.

Sandy Lindsay

Kingussie

Introduction – Clues to the Highlands of today

BY 1819 THE final stages of forced upheaval that was designed to modernise the Sutherland Estates were about to take place. Patrick Sellar, the incoming sheep farmer, wrote to James Loch, chief factor, with his triumphant opinions:

It had induced already a most astonishing effect on the minds of the aborigines. Several – I believe most of the half-pay captains are meditating or have already planned their flight, and the common people are so effectively cowed that, since Martinmas, here, to the wonder of all my people, [we have not] lost one sheep by theft! … we shall move steadily forward at Whitsunday, and shall make your Clearance of the hill… once and for all.

It is little wonder that the grip held by the Highland Clearances on Scottish minds is as strong now in the 21st century, as it was when a bragging ‘Improver’ like Patrick Sellar discussed his business plans, or the people forced from their homes first told their heart breaking story.

Since the 1850s most Scots have lived in towns and many have taken the emigrant boat, train or bus to other lands, by choice or by necessity. Looking back on the