It feels as though I’m standing on top of a supertanker hewn from ancient rock. Far below, the flatlands of the Tywi Valley fan out around the serpentine, eponymous river. My berth is Garn Goch, the larger of two conjoined Iron Age hillforts atop an escarpment to the southeast of Llandeilo. Ravens croak, twittering skylarks lurch upwards, red kites tilt their fiery tails this way and that.
Clumps of boulders, massing five metres in height, lend Garn Goch a staggering stature. Underneath these Iron Age remnants, Garn Goch is believed to go back deep into prehistoric times. I’m exploring the fort with Chris Smith, who offers guided pilgrimage walks. Before we start, she hands me a piece of local quartz, a talisman she says. Later, she gives a blessing and reads a poem, by the 20th-century Welsh giant of poetry, Waldo Williams. It contains
