Paris and the World: The Cheapo Snob Visits the City and Its International Community

By Jayne R. Boisvert

The third volume of the Cheapo Snob series, Paris and the World introduces visitors to the many and varied global aspects of the French capital. Worldwide dining experiences—from North and South America to Europe, Africa, and Asia—are available throughout most of the city’s twenty arrondissements. In addition, several “best-kept secrets” in the form of amazing museums and houses of worship have international origins.

This guidebook also provides short biographies and addresses associated with a great number of foreign nationals who spent time in Paris. And what an extraordinary group they are! Some examples include composers Chopin and Liszt, artists van Gogh and Picasso, authors Oscar Wilde and James Joyce, and Nobel Prize laureate Marie Curie. In other categories readers will discover actors, dancers, and fashion designers to mention but a few.

• Language: English
• Publisher: Open Books
• Release date: Oct 16, 2022
• ISBN: 9781005457273

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Cover Page for (Paris and the World)Title Page for (Paris and the World)

Published by Open Books

Copyright © 2022 by Jayne R. Boisvert

Cover images ©Anna Tryhub shutterstock.com/g/Artem_Tryhub

©Olga_C shutterstock.com/g/Olga_C

Interior design by Siva Ram Maganti

All rights reserved.

No part of this book may be reproduced, scanned, or distributed in any printed or electronic form without permission except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical articles and reviews.

ISBN-13: 978-1948598606

For my wonderful, intelligent, and inspiring grandchildren: Charlotte, Leo, and Benjamin

CONTENTS

Preface

CHAPTER 1: The Global Food Scene

CHAPTER 2: International Museums

CHAPTER 3: Houses of Worship

Introduction to Famous International People in Paris

CHAPTER 4: Actors and Directors

CHAPTER 5: Artists

CHAPTER 6: Authors

CHAPTER 7: Composers, Musicians, and Singers

CHAPTER 8: Dancers and Artistic Directors

CHAPTER 9: Fashion Designers

CHAPTER 10: Photographers

CHAPTER 11: Political Figures and Theorists

CHAPTER 12: Other Famous International People

Conclusion

Acknowledgements

Preface

AS I BEGAN RESEARCHING this volume, I couldn’t help but ask myself some serious questions about the very existence of an international aspect to the French capital. What kind of ethnic restaurants are available in the city? Are there more than just one or two museums with worldwide connections? How many famous people from abroad have actually taken up residence there? Well, I’m happy to report that I was amazed at not only the number but also the quality of all of the above. In addition, I discovered several lovely places of worship which would definitely be worth a visit even simply for their architectural and historical value.

In the first chapter we’ll take a look at the abundant and varied global contributions to the Parisian food scene. Somewhat unexpectedly, menus in local eateries represent nearly every continent on earth. Cheapos will relish the diversity of take-out or eat-in offerings from deli-like traiteurs and small stands in marchés. Frugal visitors will also be delighted with the sizable number of small, inexpensive restaurants dishing up everything from North African couscous, Bejing-style dumplings, Spanish tapas, South American ceviche and empanadas, and more. Snobs will surely appreciate that Michelin has awarded one of its coveted stars to a trio of elegant places notably serving Asian, West African-French fusion, and Mexican meals. You’re bound to be hungry after reading through this section!

Chapters two and three examine museums and houses of worship with international ties. Among others on the art front, there are the multicultural works of the Quai Branly, the huge Asian collection found at the Musée Guimet, and the worldwide photographic display and beautiful gardens of the Musée Albert-Kahn. Religious sites initially established to serve immigrant populations are scattered throughout the capital. Their diversity includes an Orthodox cathedral, a center devoted to Buddhism, the Synagogue des Tournelles with its wrought-iron framework created by Gustave Eiffel as well as the Grande Mosquée de Paris decorated in traditional Islamic style by North African craftsmen.

In Chapters 4 through 12 we will meet a wide selection of foreign-born citizens who, for at least a time, settled in Paris. You’ll find an alphabetical list of actors and directors, artists, authors, composers and singers, dancers, fashion designers, photographers, political figures and theorists, and a few other hard-to-categorize individuals. And what a far-reaching, distinguished crowd they are! Europeans, sure: Balenciaga, Callas, Magritte, and Oscar Wilde, come to mind. But there are also many others as unique as Mexican nationals Kahlo and Rivera, Neruda from Chile, Vietnam’s Ho Chi Minh, and Japanese designer Kenzō Takada. Missing from this group of international stars are, of course, Americans—such as Josephine Baker, Mary Cassatt, and Ernest Hemingway, et alia—who are located in book one of the Cheapo Snob series: Pilgrimage to Paris. Once again Cheapos will be able to explore new and different areas of the city associated with these prominent people for the price of a bus or métro ticket. And Snobs will have the bragging rights of following in the footsteps of their heroes and perhaps visiting some of their favorite hangouts. So, Cheapos and Snobs, get ready to enjoy this special venture into the other side of Paris—one that enriches an already spectacular city.

Chapter 1

The Global Food Scene

IT’S COMPLETELY UNDERSTANDABLE THAT on a first trip to Paris you’d want to stick to local bistros or Michelin-starred French restaurants. But for longer stays or on subsequent visits, a kaleidoscope of multicultural cuisine awaits in this city with one of the largest immigrant populations in Europe. If you prefer eating earlier than usual, enjoy the option of a take-out meal, or want to get more vegetables in your diet, this gastronomic voyage could be just what you have in mind. Many of these places are quite small and, due to high rents in city center arrondissements, are often located outside the major tourist areas. Yet, the international communities and their delicious dishes have enlivened several out-of-the-way neighborhoods. Generally speaking, dining establishments undergo substantial turnover, so you’ll want to make sure that your choice is still in business as well as verify operating days and times. For Cheapo bargain lovers, the gastronomic website The Fork proposes reductions via https://www.thefork.com/restaurants/paris-c415144. So here are some suggestions, divided according to regions of the world and located throughout most of the twenty arrondissements. Prices (listed in dollars instead of euros) are per person, unless otherwise indicated. Bon appétit!

African and Middle Eastern Cuisine

Ever since thousands of North African immigrants were brought to France to fill a labor shortage during WWI, their culinary delights have appeared on Parisian menus. To this day in the capital, the number of restaurants serving hearty stews from the Maghreb—such as couscous or tagine—is astounding. So many, in fact, they are sometimes compared to the plentiful number of Mexican food places found throughout the U.S. Cuisine from other African nations, especially from the former colonies in the western part of the continent, are increasingly starting to crop up as well. Middle Eastern foods—from Lebanon and Israel to Turkey—are also well-represented in the city. Nearly all are family-friendly in terms of tasty offerings, early opening times, and affordable cost. In addition, most are a pretty safe bet for vegans and vegetarians. Here then are a few African and Middle Eastern establishments in more or less ascending order according to price:

Le Traiteur Marocain, 39, rue de Bretagne (3rd)—Located in the Marché des Enfants-Rouges, this food stand offers Moroccan specialties including couscous and tagine at prices varying from $4-$17. Find a table at the market or get items to take out. Closed Monday; open Tuesday to Thursday from 9:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m. and 4:00 p.m. to 8:00 p.m.; Friday and Saturday 9:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m.; and Sunday 9:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m.

La Grotte de Chypre, 85, rue Mouffetard (5th)—This much-appreciated Mediterranean place serves everything from Turkish esme salad, grape leaves, and hummus to moussaka and grilled meats. The price range between $7 and $11 dollars fits just about anyone’s budget. It’s open for business every day noon to 3:00 p.m. and 6:00 p.m. to 11:00 p.m.

Chez Mamane, 27, rue des 5 Diamants (13th)—For simple, good couscous priced from $10 to $20, this decades-old Algerian family business is hard to beat. Limited to just six varieties of couscous daily, the delicious broth of this neighborhood institution draws big crowds, especially on Saturday nights. Open Monday 6:30 p.m. to 11:00 p.m.; Tuesday, Wednesday, and Sunday 6:30 p.m. to 11:30 p.m.; and Friday and Saturday 6:30 p.m. to midnight.

Le Village, 86, avenue Parmentier (11th)—This small Senegalese restaurant long on charm serves such West African dishes as Yassa Poulet for about $16. Open for lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday noon to 2:30 p.m. and 7:00 p.m. to 11:00 p.m. and Sunday for dinner only 7:00 p.m. to 10:30 p.m.

Chez le Libanais, 35, rue Saint-André-des-Arts (6th)—In the mood for hummus and shawarma? For around $20 you can get a flavorful Lebanese meal, eat-in or take-out. Open Sunday through Thursday 11:00 a.m. to 11:30 p.m.; Friday and Saturday 11:00 a.m. to midnight.

Sohan Café, 30, boulevard de la Chapelle (18th)—Check out this family-owned restaurant for a mixture of Iranian, Greek, and Lebanese food. Set in a modern décor, meals go for about $23 on average. Reservations are suggested for their Sunday brunch which costs a few dollars more. Closed Monday and Tuesday, they are open Wednesday, Thursday, and Sunday 10:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m.; Friday and Saturday 10:00 a.m. to 11:00 p.m.

Sersaf, 18, avenue des Gobelins (5th)—For about $32 you can taste shish-kebabs, Kurdish zucchini fritters, as well as other vegan and vegetarian dishes. It’s open Tuesday through Sunday from noon to 3:00 p.m. and 6:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m.; they are closed Mondays.

Enat, 312, rue des Pyrénées (20th)—In this cozy atmosphere, you can sample Ethiopian dishes eaten with the crêpe-like injera bread for an average price of about $30; add a bottle of wine for $20 more. Dine-in or take-out daily for lunch noon to 3:00 p.m. and for dinner from 7:00 p.m. to midnight.

L’Afrodisiac, 16, rue Thorel (2nd)—For diners wanting to taste dishes from eight different African nations in a lovely setting, this would be the place. A prix-fixe menu is available for about $34. Open Sunday through Thursday noon to 3:00 p.m. and 7:00 p.m. to midnight; Friday and Saturday 11:30 a.m. to 3:00 p.m. and 7:00 p.m. to 2:00 a.m.

Le Janissaire, 24, allée Vivaldi (12th)—Turkish cuisine and wine combine in this comfortable setting near the Gare de Lyon. Expect delicious grilled meats along with baba ghanoush and baklava, Prices average about $30 to $38 per person. Open noon to 2:30 p.m. and 7:00 p.m. to 11:00 p.m. Monday through Friday; Saturday for dinner only 7:00 p.m. to 11:00 p.m. The restaurant is closed on Sunday.

Fumé, 10, rue Berryer (8th)—This Israeli-inspired kosher restaurant specializes in smoked meats—beef, chicken, fish—but also serves hummus, marinated peppers, and salads. Closed Saturdays, it is open for lunch and dinner Monday through Thursday noon to 2:30 p.m. and 7:30 p.m. to 11:00 p.m.; Friday just for lunch from noon to 2:30 p.m.; for dinner only on Sunday 7:30 p.m. to 11:00 p.m.

MoSuke, 11, rue Raymond Losserand (14th)—At the higher end of the spectrum, you’ll find this one-star Michelin restaurant. Its young chef Mory Sacko’s unique cosmopolitan blend brings French and Japanese touches to West African cuisine, including dishes from his father’s native Mali. Prices range from $60 at lunch to $125 for dinner. Open Tuesday through Saturday noon to 2:00 p.m. and 7:00 p.m. to 10:00 p.m.; closed Sunday and Monday. Reservations are strongly advised.

Asian Cuisine

Not surprisingly, foods from the world’s largest continent have found their way into the Parisian dining scene. Naturally, some of these restaurants come from the former colonial areas of Vietnam and Cambodia which used to make up French Indochina. Other Asian cuisines, like Chinese, Indian, Japanese, Korean, and Thai, abound for your dining pleasure as well. To enjoy very low-priced meals at lunch or dinner, Cheapos should look for Asian traiteurs (small delis serving hot and cold prepared dishes) which seem to pop up nearly everywhere. In addition, Chinatown (a large Asian quarter spread over the 13th arrondissement) and Little Tokyo (off the avenue de l’Opéra in the 1st and 2nd) are loaded with restaurants of varying size, price, and quality. But the proliferation of Asian eateries in recent years allows diners to discover meals of this type in districts throughout the capital. So, here are some suggestions from inexpensive to Michelin-starred restaurants:

Raviolis Chinois Nord-Est, 115, rue Saint-Denis (1st)—For delicious Beijing-style dumplings as well as soups and salads, head to this tiny place. The price—from $10 to $17—is definitely a good fit for almost any budget. The hours are Monday through Saturday 11:30 a.m. to 3:00 p.m. and 6:00 p.m. to 11:30 p.m. They are closed Sundays. Their other location, open 11:00 a.m. to 11:00 p.m. daily except Wednesday, is located at 11, rue Civiale (10th).

Le Merci, 29, rue Poissonière (2nd)—At this small, bright restaurant you can sample Cambodian and Vietnamese specialties for about $23, including pho soup, spring rolls, and beef satay. Open from noon to 3:00 p.m. and 6:30 p.m. to 11:00 p.m. every day but Sunday when it is closed.

Menkicchi Ramen, 41, rue Sainte-Anne (1st)—Drop by this tiny, popular Japanese spot for a plate of gyoza (about $7) and delicious, homemade ramen noodle soup ($17 for miso or vegetable miso). It’s open daily 11:30 a.m. to 3:00 p.m. (until 3:30 Saturday and Sunday) and 6:30 p.m. to 10:15 p.m. (till 10:30 Friday and Saturday).

Kathmandu, 22, rue des Boulangers (5th)—Interested in trying Nepalese food? For around $27 you can try meat dumplings and grilled meats as well as their special desserts in this attractive place. A bottle of wine costs $20. Closed Sundays, the restaurant is open Monday through Friday for lunch and dinner noon to 2:30 p.m. and 7:30 p.m. to 10:00 p.m.; Saturday for dinner only 7:30 p.m. to 10:00 p.m.

Lao Lane Xang, 102, avenue d’Ivry (13th)—Lines can be long for dishes from Laos such as lemongrass shrimp soup, Laotian steak, or red curry duck. The average à la carte price comes to about $28. Closed Wednesdays. Open Monday, Tuesday, Thursday, and Friday noon to 3:00 p.m. and 7:00 p.m. to 11:00 p.m.; Saturday and Sunday noon to 4:00 p.m. and 7:00 p.m. to 11:30 p.m. Reservations are suggested.

Pho Tai, 13, rue Philibert Lucot (13th)—For excellent egg rolls and spring rolls, pho soup, and bo bun, head to this modest Vietnamese family restaurant. Priced from $27 to $38, it is open Tuesday through Sunday for lunch and dinner noon to 3:00 p.m. and 6:45 p.m. to 10:15 p.m. Closed on Mondays. Their branch, Pho Tai Tai, is right across the street.

Sobane, 5, rue de la Tour d’Auvergne (9th)—This simple place offers appetizing Korean dumplings, bimbimbap, and bulgogi, with meals averaging about $32. Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week from noon to 2:30 p.m. and 7:00 p.m. to 10:30 p.m.

Royal Indien, 4, rue de la Félicité (17th)—Samosas, chicken or lamb korma, as well as tikka masala are available for an average of $28 at this comfortable Indian restaurant. It’s open for business every day noon to 2:30 p.m. and 6:30 p.m. to 11:00 p.m.

Panda Panda, 21, rue Juliette Dodu (10th)—Try this highly-rated spot for a fusion menu inspired by the street food of Hong Kong and Taiwan. From between $17 and $40 you can sample steamed buns and dumplings, sautéed rice noodles, stir-fried eggplant, or pork fried rice along with French wines. Hours daily noon to 2:30 p.m. and 7:00 p.m. to 10:15 p.m.

Tamarind, 33, rue François Miron (4th)—Stone walls and decorations add to the charm of this Thai restaurant. Count on about $40 to $50 for a meal which may include soup and kebabs. It’s open Monday through Saturday for lunch from noon to 2:30 p.m. and dinner 7:00 p.m. to 11:00 p.m.; Sundays for dinner only 7:00 p.m. to 11:00 p.m.

Sushi B, 5, rue Rameau (2nd)—This tiny seven-seat Japanese restaurant received a Michelin star for the city’s best sushi. Prix-fixe menu items include cuttlefish, shrimp, and Breton lobster at prices from about $85 for lunch to over $200 for dinner; count on about $60 for a bottle of wine. Their set hours are Wednesday through Sunday for lunch at 12:30 p.m. and for dinner at 7:00 p.m. or 9:30 p.m., closed Monday and Tuesday as well as for national holidays. Given the restaurant’s very small size, it would be wise to reserve.

Shang Palace, 10, avenue d’Iéna (16th)—The only Michelin-starred Chinese restaurant in Paris is part a globally-recognized chain all associated with the Hôtel Shangri-La. Enjoy such dishes as shrimp and chicken dumplings, Peking duck, and lobster sautéed in ginger as part of their prix-fixe meal. All of this elegance naturally comes with pricey menus ranging from about $85 to $275 per person. Add on another $50 for a bottle of wine. Hours are noon to 2:00 p.m. and 7:00 p.m. to 10:00 p.m. every day except Tuesday and Wednesday when they are closed.

European Cuisine

As one of the original founders of the European Union, France has attracted settlers from other EU states over the years. Naturally, many come from border areas such as Spain, Italy, and Germany. Yet because of its central location in western Europe, the country has welcomed nationals from throughout the continent, including Russia, Poland, Greece, and Ukraine to the east and Portugal to the west. Among the migrant people came chefs bringing foods and recipes along with their intentions to set up restaurants. Consequently, choices for diners in Paris are varied and delightful. On restaurant menus in the city these days you’ll find an amazing assortment of offerings—everything from tapas, lasagna, pierogis, wiener schnitzel, and moussaka. And there’s an accompanying wide range of prices, suitable for most any budget. So, here’s