YOUR LIFE HERE IS AN INSPIRATION The Journals of Richard L Proenneke 1986 - 1991

By Friends of Donnellson Public Library

The purpose of this fourth volume of The Journals of Richard L Proenneke is to continue to edit and annotate them for the reading public. Even though age was advancing on Proenneke he still maintained his busy life at his beloved Twin Lakes full of energy, with a passionate interest and an acute understanding of Nature. He still hiked and wrot

• Language: English
• Publisher: Friends of Donnellson Public Library
• Release date: Jan 6, 2022
• ISBN: 9780578350431

Book preview

Chapter 1

MORE VISITORS THAN EVER - 1986

Feb. 23, 1986 Clear, Calm & -18°

It was 10:30 when I checked the weather before climbing the ladder. I saw no indication that a weather front was moving in. Hugo had said, There is a low out the chain coming this way.¹

Back to my mail and more clippings than I will get read in a week. Everyone sent news of the Challenger.² Even the Jan. 29th edition of The New York Times (32 pages). Some time back I got a card announcing that someone had subscribed to the Readers Digest for me. Three copies of it came this trip.

I was reading when I heard Old Glory make a fuss. I had noticed a few fog patches over the south mts. Hugo’s weather had arrived. I went out to find it was an up lake wind and -4°. That can make a cool cabin if it blows hard and directly up the lake. I read and read until I felt guilty about wasting the day. The sun had dropped when I went out to saw and split a batch.

March 12, 1986 Partly cloudy, Calm & 13°

A good sleep after the long walk and I was ready to get up at 6:15. It would be hotcakes this morning and they turned out good. The door was open on top and spots of sun lighted the mts. across before dishes were done. Spring is a nice time of year & after the -21° ave. this is spring.

After the frost leaves from between the roof poles over the walls a white mold comes when it dries. Doesn’t look too pretty good so I scrubbed the offending areas with strong Clorox water to see if it would keep them mold free. One cleaning led to another and it turned out to be a mini-cabin cleaning right down to scrubbing the door sill. I was writing a letter when I heard Old Glory flapping in the breeze. I went out to find it 28° and it would reach 40° strong in early afternoon. I would stay home today. Some time back Whitey Mohr in Seattle had written asking what he could send me for a ladle.³ I haven’t carved one in quite some time. I would make him one of my good bow saw steel kitchen knives as payment for the Sandvik pruning saw he sent me and wouldn’t tell me how much.

I had a couple pieces of saw blade so sawed the teeth off one short section and worked it into a sharp blade. A caribou antler had laid on the woodshed roof for years. Pretty ratty looking but hard as bone and would be good handle material. With saw, rasp and drill I fashioned a handle and by quitting time it was ready to take the blade. Now at 7:45 Overcast, blowing dn. & 36°.

March 13, 1986 Partly cloudy, calm & 24°

Longer hours of sunlight makes for sounder sleep at night. They are noticeably shorter now. I yawn in the evening and still sleepy come daylight. 24° but I would do a heavy laundry this morning. I figured there would be sun for drying. So, I did and then sanded the knife handle and bedded the blade in the deep mortice using epoxy and black sand. I had the job done and set up to cure when I heard a Cub low and getting louder by the second. I went out and couldn’t spot it for a second or two. Then I saw it coming head on from Falls Creek. The Park Service Cub and he landed on the strip. It was Hollis and Bob Gerhard, Park Service from Kenai.⁴ Hollis climbed out and said, We have some mail for you. A couple parcels, a few letters, a foil bundle which he said was smoked salmon strips from his mom. She had told me she would send some.⁵ And Larry had sent a few packages of caribou and smoked salmon.⁶ We came in. Too hot for warm Tang today but they would have some cold Tang. I had a bucket of ice water fresh from the lake. We will have to drink and run, Hollis said. Going over Stony River way to have a look. The news - they found the cabin of the Space Shuttle with bodies inside, if I have it right. I got my outgoing licked shut and glad that I had written some. I saw them off and my 600 ft. strip is just long enough for a Cub on Federal Skis with two and a batch of gear aboard. It cleared the ice just as he reached my end markers. I got to my mail and packages.

March 18, 1986, Partly cloudy, calm & 3°

Thought of going to my caribou look out a mile down the Lower Lake’s left side but changed my mind and stuck the pin on Low Pass. I have been wanting to go up there for some time. Ginny Ressler (P.S. office worker) in Anch. had written, I want to ski and we have no snow. If you have skiing, snow blaze a trail and I’ll be there.⁷ I wrote and told her, March 15 is the time if I get some snow. I didn’t expect her to come but wondered how it would be for snow up there if she had come.

I loaded my Olympus gear on the pack frame and left my snowshoes hanging on the peg under the overhang.⁸ A wise decision for I didn’t need them. For a snow free climb to the trench above brush line I went below Low Pass beach and climbed the bank which was snow free. Headed inland and climbed the benches on the down country side of Low [Pass] Creek. Shot a couple frames just as I entered the mt. and to the trench. Heavy hikers and instep crampons my climbing gear. The trench smooth and hard as a concrete side walk but no good for skis due to rocks that littered the surface. While climbing I was back tracking a big rabbit in the dusting of snow. It is hard to imagine a rabbit track so large. Near the top the old tracks of two sheep crossing headed down country.

The crampons just right for the climb and the steep very hard packed snow at the summit. From my look out rocks in the pass, I had a real good view of the big basin towards the divide on the circle, the mt. trail. Snow, plenty of it and smooth and wind packed until I could have climbed to the divide and not even think of snowshoes. From the divide 3,000 feet above the lake level one could run for a mile and one half at least following the stream bed which is deep and smooth with hard pack. Yes, it would be a test of Ginny‘s North Dakota nerve if she ran it flat out, no brakes from top to bottom. A couple shots of mt. scenery there and I headed back but would stay high on mt. up country of the trench for a few shots of the low country and the sun at 90°. Very steep and wind packed but those little crampons prevented a fall. I was back by 3:50 and still had sparks for a fire start.

March 19, 1986, Clear, calm & -2°

It was Glen & Dave Wilder.⁹ Glen remarked, This is sure a nice strip you have here. Dave dragged out a front leg of caribou and said, This is a real fresh one, just got it. Glen had a jug of catsup, 4 onions and some caribou sausage. They were on their way up past Telaquana to look for a wrecked airplane they had heard about. If it is any good and Bee gets a big copter they will have him pick it up and pack it out. Glen said someone has bid on Hank Rust’s C-206 [C-185?] in Two Lakes.¹⁰ And they wanted to do some ptarmigan hunting below Turquoise if they could find some. Glen told me that next time I skin a pretty porkypine he would like to see if he can get it tanned. At Port Alsworth last night about 10 above. Maybe 2 feet of ice on the bay and a foot on Lake Clark. Dave had driven his pickup to Iliamna earlier.

March 22, 1986, Clear, calm & -2°

Where to go today? I thought of circling the mt. but I would need snowshoes to get to timber line. Then it would be pack them or leave them and wade snow to get them after I made the circle. I would climb to the big pasture across the lake instead. It was after 11 when I got away packing my Olympus gear. Heavy hikers and instep crampons for the mt. No snowshoes to timber line for I had a packed trail. The climb was good going and just how long would it take to climb to Falls Peak today. No stopping and no pushing hard - just steady going. There was a cool breeze out of the southeast when I reached the point of the mt. at 2,000 feet above the lake. 900 feet to go. I had a good chance of making the climb from my cabin in less than 2 hrs. Near the top I did push a bit thinking it would be close to 2 hrs. Turned out to be about 1 hr. 56 min. A pretty day up there. A few but very few white clouds and that cool breeze to make me wish for my wind breaker pants over my above the knee pants.

I used the 28 mm lens until near the end of the roll then two with the 50 mm and the last one with the 35-70 back down the lake. Down country I saw a Cessna land on Lake Trout Bay near the Park Service cabin. On the big pasture I counted 24 sheep. A big scatter and a million snow patches made it difficult to spot them. I could see Redoubt and Iliamna volcanoes easy enough.¹¹ Not much snow on the trail to the sheep lick so come June it should be an easy trip. I was on the peak about 1 hr. and 25 min. Now, how long would it take to come down? I moved right along but no jogging. Never a bobble coming down the steep face of the mt. thanks to the good footing with the little crampons, 58 minutes to the lake and 18 min to my cabin from the far shore. I still had sparks in the stove. Split a big chunk and sawed a few spares before supper. Now at 8, Clear, calm and 26°.

March 30, 1986 Clear, Calm 7 -14°

Small drifts on airstrips can require a lot of work. I had two removed by noon. Not absolutely necessary that I remove them for those fly boys land on many times worse strips, but as long as I have a marked strip that has been used I will keep it in shape if at all possible.

Lunch time and I was back to finish in an hour or a bit more. I was working away when I noticed my resident fox come loping from the creek flat and headed for the mouth of Falls Creek. Didn’t even look my way as he passed maybe 150 feet away. This morning early he was laying curled on the snow out from the woodshed. I kept track of him as he loped across. Out a few hundred yds he started to circle right and last I saw of him he passed Carrithers’ Point. Now what was his thinking to pull that caper? I finished the snow removal and came in. . . . I wanted to walk a bit this nice Easter Sunday. With no plan in particular in mind I headed across the lake. See what the traffic had been recently. I got there to find fresh wolf tracks. Made after the wind calmed for there was no snow in them. I followed them up lake a hundred yds. or so and found there were three. Two making about the same size track and one smaller. With my bare hand I measured a big track and later here in the cabin I used the tape to get an accurate measurement. The big track 5 3/8 inches long and about 4 3/8" wide. Not the greatest I have seen but big heavy wolves judging from the crusted snow they broke. Crust that broke under their weight broke undermine.

I back tracked them to see how they behaved coming by Jerre’s cabin.¹² They left the shoreline and stayed well clear. One split off and went still farther out. I would like to follow their tracks up the lake and the river to see where they went and if they found a moose up there. Would they take the left fork at the rock pile and go over the pass to Turquoise country? Why did they come up here with the caribou herd down country? Why do they come and kill a sheep some times? Tired of caribou perhaps.

April 1, 1986, Partly cloudy, calm & -10°

After chores I looked on the shelf over the door and found a can of plaster of Paris that I didn’t know I had. I could mix it with ice water but would it set before it froze? I doubted if it would even come close but I would give it a try. So, I went over at zero degrees and proceeded to lose my good sharp track. First I watered it gently and gave it a coat of ice. Now it was in real good shape and I should have had some Jello mix. My water had some ice in it when I poured some in my plastic bag containing the plaster of Paris. I squished it around quickly to get mixed and poured it in the track. It looked good but in a minute it was freezing and I suspected that when it thawed and dried it would be powder. Nothing more I could do and my hands were pretty cold and messed up with plaster. I packed my traps and headed across. I would pick up the cast later if I could find it.

It was still a fair day with the sun weak due to a high thin overcast. I wanted to climb to the big pasture to see if the wolves had crossed to Emerson Creek valley. It was now 10° so I dressed cool for the climb but took my wind breakers along.

Across and up the Falls Creek trail to timber line and no fresh tracks crossing. Above the high waterfall I dropped to the solid wind packed snow in the canyon. I would be on snow all the way and had enough light snow on the wind pack & most places I could see tracks. I marched right on up to the upper forks and then took the right one. Again snow all the way and I could see many sheep tracks crossing my route. Three sheep on my right and not a bit spooky. In fact one didn’t get up as I passed. On up to the leveling off before the steep pitch to the skyline. The wind was up there and from the southeast. It was a cold wind and I would need those wind breakers. More sheep and maybe 20-23 head and they were not spooky at all. In fact one ewe came 50 yds. towards me and that doesn’t happen often. I decided they had not been molested by the big dogs. The bunch became very active as if cold and running to get warm. Lambs and ewes too would run very fast out from the bunch and then run back. For five minutes or more they raced about.

I circled right again to come back to the edge of the pasture directly across from my cabin. I would come down the face and my sun check trail of last winter. The snowshoe trail would be packed and frozen. Again my instep crampons paid for themselves. Down a very steep scree chute which had a good stretch of frozen wind pack. It would have been a struggle wearing only my hiking boots. Out went a white tail ptarmigan to go sailing down the mt. Later I saw a black tail.

April 9, 1986 Partly cloudy, calm & -18°

An owl hooted on the far side and I listened for its mate but heard only one and it seemed to be moving up country. It is owl nesting time and somewhere over there is a nest I am sure. I have searched other years but found none. One time I found a young owl in the moose rutting timber but another time I saw two young owls near the southeast survey marker of Erv Terry’s 5 acres.¹³

It would be a bugger coming back but I would go to lower Emerson Falls and shoot a few more frames of the ouzel’s nest. So, I had a 11 o’clock lunch and packed to go. Olympus gear and flash outfit. Wind breakers for sure for it can be a long three miles against a 26° wind.

I marched right down the middle. Considerable bare ice but I had my good crampons making every step a safe one.

At the creek flat I turned into the goshawk timber one more time. I had given up on an owl using it but to check was no problem. From as far as I could see it through the cotton woods I thought, is that an owl’s face I see? I went closer and used the glasses again. It sure enough was an owl complete with horns. She was sitting pretty low for a goshawk’s nest is quite deep. I went closer still and watched her and listened for the scolding hoot of her mate but heard none.

The last owl I watched was found on the nest on April 3. So about 1st April is time for the owls to start incubating. I left her there and went on up to the falls. No moose tracks crossing the creek flat but later I would see tracks of moose headed up country.

The sun was on the lower falls and it struck me as being nicer than last time I was there and took pictures so I mounted the Olympus on the tripod and let it take my picture at the face of that wall of ice that is the falls. Three frames left for the nest and two of them with flash to see how it would look.

There in the water worn water course is a nice smooth hollow in the rock wall. The sun was head on and bright. It was very warm there so I had a sourdough sandwich and some smoke fish. Laid back and maybe dozed a few winks before packing for the 4 miles home. I stopped again at the owl’s nest and waded the deep snow to get within a couple hundred feet. I stopped under a cotton wood tree that had the start of a nest high up. Lots of sticks on the snow so it was done this spring. It looked goshawk to me. I saw one under construction by a goshawk a few years back and there was an arm load of sticks that fell while the nest was being built. The goshawk seems not too savvy about placing sticks so they will stay. I suppose it is a little tricky to get a platform started in the crotch formed by 3 limbs. Would a goshawk build so close to an owl on a nest? Interesting, and I must check later. Last owl watch lasted from Apr. 3 to last of May and I figured that I walked about 300 miles checking and taking pictures. This nest is nearly a half mile closer to the lake than the last one. I left Mrs. Owl and headed up the shoreline against an eye watering wind. On that side there are two sheltered beaches so a break from the wind for a few minutes. Up the middle it is no relief from start to finish.

April 16, 1986 Overcast, Calm & 18°

I proof read Journal 63 until 9 PM and had 15 days to go when I climbed the ladder. Again it was snowing lightly and would amount to another half inch. Reveille at five and spuds for breakfast. Chores done I got back to my reading so as to get it wrapped for mailing in case a plane came today.

I put out some laundry and was finishing my latest knife handle when I heard the whine of a 3 blade propeller which would be the Park Service. It came up the far side, circled right past here and down to the lower end to turn right again and start an approach to land over at Jerre’s point. There was no sun on the snow and with these last two light snows that rough snow surface is not visible. I figured he was due for a surprise. Two men got out and walked to the cabin. With the scope I recognized Paul. He walked back down the lake as if looking for a better take off route.

Hey! A chance to get my mail out. Probably he would come here but if he didn’t I would still be waiting. I rushed around getting it packed in my camera carrying belly pack. Wrote a big check for 1st qtr. income tax and dated it the 15th. I headed over but they took off up country when I was halfway. As I suspected he came down and turned to land on my strip. His two passengers headed for Erv Terry’s knob. Paul came to meet me. I said, Paul, do you know that your Twin Lakes insurance is no good if you don’t land on the runway.¹⁴ He cackled and said, It was a little bumpy. Then he explained his landing. I was going slow and it wobbled around a bit but it wasn’t too bad. Later today I would see how bad it really was. Where is Glen, I asked? In town, Paul said. He had talked to Glen Van Valin and he said he was in Anch.¹⁵

We came in and I introduced him to my resident fox who was laying curled on the snow. That was my dog and then I showed him my pup track (cast). He thought that was a pretty good sized pup.

He said I guess the big news these days is that we bombed some terrorist’s camps in Libya. I can imagine the propaganda that Russia is spreading now. Dangerous business I say but we must get with the program of getting even. Don’t get mad get even. What is sauce for the goose is sauce for the gander.

April 19, 1986, Clear, calm & 10°

Clear, calm and beautiful. This was a perfect spring morning. I was up at five and soon had breakfast out of sight. Sat. morning and this should be plane day. My grub list was in my outgoing mail that went out Thurs. Glen would get it Friday and it would jog his memory that I am still here and alive.

First thing after the cabin was spic & span I bedded the knife blade in the new handle. It’s a pretty thing (my opinion). I had just finished when I heard a little airplane coming. It was the little Stinson and he landed coming down along the beach from Carrithers’ Point. Glen and son Glenny.¹⁶ If it had been Babe he would have said, When was I here last? But Glen said not a word about being two weeks over due. Later in here he said, I guess we are late. I was getting my tax form ready to send. I said, I doubt that they will growl for they owe me money. He agreed that it is better that way if you are late.

My fox hadn’t been here since a couple days ago and while we were coming in from the plane here came the little red fox trotting down along the beach. Trotted by us and laid down out front where my beach will be when the snow melts. So I got some treats and the little boy [Glen, Alsworth, Jr.] got to feed the fox. Glen allowed that was a good pet but don’t you know its skin would be on the stretcher in no time if it showed itself at Port Alsworth.

I asked them if they would like to see my horned owl. Little Glenny had never seen a horned owl. I would fly down with them and walk back.

I told Glen if Dave Wilder wants me to help him on his John Deere brake job I will be ready to go in Apr. 22. He would tell him. So the stove on automatic and the fox fed extra rations we flew down and landed along the shore line. A little bumpy but with that super strong Stinson gear and 30" tires - no problem.

Ma owl was there and looking back over her shoulder at us today. Glen and the little one climbed to the top of the ladder and Glen reported no sign of fur or feathers on the nest with her. The mate was hooting from back in the trees. Back at the plane we set May 15th as plane day. Glen said, I may not be here but Leon will be home and can come.

They blasted off and headed up through Low Pass and cleared it very easy by the direct route. I trudged up the lake to find my fox gone. I read mail intending to go back down with 300 mm lens, Exakta & Olympus with 35-70 zoom.

A fair breeze came up the lake while I read mail and I decided to wait and go tomorrow or Monday. So, I read my letters once over lightly and found it 2 o’clock. The breeze had almost died and it was only 2 o’clock. I could still go and be back by five. I got my gear together and marched down with the warm sun beating down on me most of the way. A few clouds and there would be more.

I climbed to my high camera station but before I did I saw white on the nest. From up high I could easily see it was ptarmigan feathers. That male had brought in one since we were there 4 hours before. I shot a few frames with both cameras, lowered my gear to the ground and headed for home. Scattered clouds and a breeze made for cool spots on the trail. 35° and 5 o’clock when I arrived. Now at 8 o’clock a very few clouds, breeze up & 26°.

April 22, 1986, Overcast, Calm & 4° - Lt. Snow [RLP flies to Port Alsworth with Dave Wilder]

Today was the 1st day my fire would die since way back in late Oct. or early Nov. I was most sure that Dave Wilder would be in to get me and he sure enough did. I was pretty well packed so there was no delay in getting started. It had been hotcakes for breakfast and my birds and the fox came for a generous hand out and to see me off.

Dave was flying Glen’s little Stinson which is a real comfortable little 2-seater. Visibility was not the best and we entered the hills up country of Snipe Lake and followed a narrow valley until we hit the Little Mulchatna just below Fishtrap Lake. There, we angled right through a notch that took us down the Kijik River. Visibility improved after we broke over the divide and I could see Lake Clark far below. Very little or no snow at lake level and the weather balmy.

Soon after landing we started on the John Deere and we would get it taken apart before dark. Got off to a bad start. We were using the garden hose (which is hooked to the house water system). Washing the dirt from our working area when Jacque (Dave’s wife) came flying out of the house.¹⁷ Water was soaking the carpeting on the first floor (basement). A water pipe had frozen and burst during cold weather and now Dave had opened the valve to do the damage. Thick wool carpet with foam rubber under it. Dave went for Lee Fink and his industrial vacuum cleaner.¹⁸ Jacque used it and sucked buckets and buckets of water from the soaked area which might amount to 300 sq. feet.

April 23, 1986, Partly cloudy, calm & 30°

I had a corner room in the basement (above ground level) and a real good bed. I was surprised that I slept so well for I never do in a strange place the first night.

Dave took off for Anch. in his good looking C-206 soon after breakfast. I started work on rock guards and track frame. He had twisted some cap screws off and attempted but failed to get the broken ends removed. Some delicate torch work but I got them out without damaging the treads. That chore done I took the steering clutch apart and found the pilot bearing practically gone. We made an attempt to get ahold of Dave before he left Anch. but he had started for home. He arrived and had all the parts we had on his list. Now we could make headway but soon got shot down. Put in that new brake band anchor and the threads broke off when Dave tightened it and not overly tight. We learned it was made of cast iron. Dave called Anch. to try to find Glen and have him bring another one. They only cost $100.00. The John Deere dealer said we will sell you another new one. You give us the broken one and we will send it to the factory. If they decide it was defective you will get the second one free.

A C-206 came. It was Ken Hughes the missionary.¹⁹ He said he had met me but the Ken Hughes I knew was his dad. Anyway he seemed to know everything about everything besides knowing the Bible from A to Z. Simple, bore a hole (1/2) end to end and put in a good 1/2 bolt of such length that it equaled the original. He picked the bolt and we bored the hole. He went to have tea and we discovered the head of the bolt blocked the route of the brake band adjusting screw. I said, Counter bore the hole. Remove the head of the bolt and arc weld in the counter bore to enlarge the bolt so it couldn’t pull out. While I was over at Glen’s hanger looking for a 9/16 or 5/8 drill bit Ken came out from tea and said my idea was no good. That the cast iron would break when I arc welded the end of the bolt. He took off for Anch. before I got back. I said, Welding wouldn’t break it and we would use an aircraft bolt which would be much stronger than the 3/4 cast iron thread. Dave said, Let’s do it. It turned out perfect. Now we were back in business and we got all the clutch and brake linkage in the housing. Now we would have to wait for the pilot bearing. Dave called Bee in Soldotna and had him get a bearing at the John Deere shop there.²⁰ Bee was coming over next morning and would bring it.

It had been another good day weather wise and give us one more and we would complete the job under ideal conditions. That Port A. telephone system is good.

April 25, 1986, Overcast, Calm & Frosty

Today we hoped to complete the John Deere job. A trace of snow had come during the night but it wouldn’t be cold on bare hands if you were busy. We got the steering clutch in and the final drive assembly on. All bolts and cap screws in and super tight. Loose bolts and cap screws do more damage to heavy equip. than those too tight.

Nuts and bolts and they went in pretty easy and snugged up good. Getting close to the end of the day and all we had was the track to put on and adjust. First we would have to pull the front idler back to get the track ends together. It is adjusted by using a grease gun. Open a valve and pull it back is the way to go. It wouldn’t come back or be forced ahead and off the end of the adjusting piston. Finally broke it loose and off the end. Cleaned it up but getting that end seal back in the cylinder without JD5 special tool would be a problem.

Supper time and still it hadn’t gone back in place. After supper we did it by using a hose clamp and a soft drink can. The thin can metal to get the cup shaped seal past a rubber seal that prevents dirt from getting by to the polished shaft. Made it second try and we put the track on and adjusted it. Steering clutch and brake adjusted Dave gave it a test drive and reported it like factory new. Better than the other side now.

We scooped up all the oil soaked dirt removed from the belly pan and raked the driveway smooth. Collected all the tools - cleaned them up and put them away. The John Deere job was done. Dave asked me how much he owed me and I said whatever he felt comfortable to pay. How about $500.00. Plenty, and they would give me a batch of groceries including 100 lbs. of pinto beans. Looks like I would have enough beans for the duration.

April 30, 1986, Partly cloudy, calm & 16° [RLP has now returned to his cabin at Twin Lakes]

The sun was weak on the peaks this morning and I was thinking we are due for a storm that might scare Gov. Jay from coming the 3rd of May.²¹ But, it would be a nice day with the temp. near 50°. After chores I got started at making more room in the cabin. If Jay brings two of his former secretaries I had better have this brush rat’s nest looking a little bit orderly. So, I did away with some boxes and burned a few. A pair of rough soled Japanese winter boots to go to Hope’s cabin and then on up to Spike’s cabin to uncover one window and put up the chimney pipe.²² I had told the hikers I would make it available to them for their last night here. Otherwise they would have to hike back up to Lofstedt’s cabin for tonight and then down to fly out tomorrow about noon my time. So, they would be bringing their gear down this morning.

I had put up the chimney pipe and climbed down the ladder. Happened to look back and there was my fox lying about fifteen feet away. The hikers went trudging by with their big packs. I hollered but they went on down to my place. I finished the opening chore and headed back. I called the fox and he arrived at my cabin only a couple minutes after I did. Big deal, he got his picture taken many, many times and close up too.

Corrine & Vance, the hikers names, and before the day was done I would learn she is a doctor to be. One more month of school and then her internship at Spokane, Washington in a hospital there. He is a pharmacist at Bethel and 15 doctors hand writing to decipher. Some of them don’t try to write, he says.

We would go down to visit Mrs. Owl and then go on up to the falls. The day was looking real good with bright sun on the snow. Early I had heard swan and high overhead a long straight line of 50 strong winging to westward.

Corrine and Vance are good walkers and we rambled right down my trail with the doctor in the lead. We came within sight of the nest and I saw no horns protruding. We got closer and still no owl. I couldn’t believe she was gone but she sure enough wasn’t showing. I climbed the ladder and to the tree top. No eggs in the nest. I couldn’t imagine what happened. No sign of tracks at the base of the tree though I didn’t go close to see if there were marks on the crusted snow.

May 1, 1986 Clear, Calm & 20°

Five o’clock reveille after a real good night’s sleep. This is true spring weather. Clouding during the day and clearing come late afternoon.

Real good hotcakes this morning and I would have the opportunity later to ask the doctor to be if baking soda is harmful to one’s health. Terry Gill would not let Vic use sourdough because of the soda for hotcakes. Corrine says, Harmful? Not at all, in fact, it is good for your system. I’m not sure it’s all that harmless but glad to hear it isn’t a no-no. A quarter teaspoon of baking soda in a cup of cold Tang makes it much better. A little bite to it. Glen would be coming so I wrote a couple short letters. Removed the snow from my woodshed roof and sawed and split a few chunks before it warmed and got wet under foot. Glen’s time is now two hrs. ahead of mine so his 2 PM arrival would be noon.

The hikers came trudging down about 45 min. ahead of time to go. Corrine enjoyed Spike’s cabin very much. Said it was real cozy.

Glen was on time and in the Pacer on wheels and not big wheels either. My strip looked as if it might be soft but he made a track not much more than an inch deep. He was in no hurry today and stood on the airstrip chewing the fat for a half hour or more. Told us about the Russian nuclear reactor going wild and Sweden and Finland getting a dose of radiation.²³ A Russian visiting at ex. Gov. Jay’s [Hammond] at present and that Jay will probably be up to get me Sunday, May 3rd and after his job I will go to Port Alsworth to do the airstrip. No breakup this time. Airstrip never did get soft but rough from last winter and all the tropical weather. He and Patty will be in the south seas while I am there and isn’t he lucky to have a mother-in-law like Glenda to run the house and care for the kids.²⁴ Time to go and Vance said he would like to come back some time to take pictures. Mail came for me and so I had to halt all outdoor work to get caught up. A letter from Whitey Mohr thanking me for the kitchen knife. He wrote, I find myself wondering how I got along without one before now. He likes that thin blade. Three parcels to open and then I was ready for employment again. A little late to start but if I got with the program I could put my winter gear away in the cache. Digging into it I found lots of big flies just starting to come to life. I hollered for my birds and one came promptly and went in as if he knew the reason for my calling. It sounded like rain on a roof as he pecked flies. I moved some cans and boxes and called again to find 2 robbers in my boxes on the ground. Went through the thin plastic bag and was loading up on pumpkin bread. Back in the cache for more flies and not one left when they came out. I was done by five. Now at 7:30, clear, calm and 35°. Morning ave. temp. last 15 days of April 16.6° - last year 16.73°.

May 4th, 1986 Overcast, Calm & 27°

During the night I checked to see the snow building up and then I slept again to wake up feeling like Rip Van Winkle. I tried to remember the story. Was he 70 when he woke up? The book says, Time spent at Twin Lakes is a bonus and not counted in your life span. In that case I am about 55 and feel it too. On a climb to Falls Peak I can see no difference from five years ago. It seems I can get sore from over doing easier and takes longer to return to normal than ten years ago. And I think I can use more sleeping time after a few busy days. Of course I could cave in tomorrow or before the sun sets two hrs. from now but as of this minute I feel pretty good and will have a can of 7 Up after I finish this journal entry.

May 9, 1986 Overcast, Breeze dn. & 30°

Day light comes early and it didn’t look like it would be bright and sunny. At breakfast time a few flakes were starting to drift down. After chores and my robbers happy I settled down to write letters and would put in a good day at it. Write to Priscilla [Russell Kari] at Homer and try to smooth things over.²⁵ In a letter she had mentioned chopping wood on her homestead and I wrote I had never seen a woman who could chop wood worth a cent, but added, Of course I haven’t seen them all. She came back with, I felt that your remark was quite unfair - uncalled for - we may have our style - not that women versus man necessarily have different style in my mind - anyway no offense today but we - I’m not sure if I should call myself a feminist or should I say modern woman - whatever, but you get the idea. No, I don’t, really, but would like to see her flailing away at a tough knotty spruce chunk.

May 12, 1986 Partly cloudy, Calm & 29°

Long walks in soft snow makes for good sleeping. I was awake at four and closed my eyes to find it five fifteen when I opened them. It was good to find the temp. high for it is time for no freezing at night. The big pasture looks far more inhospitable than it did during the long dark winter. All of them are on the south slope looking for new green feed and I wonder if they are finding some.

First thing I set up the scope to see if the three bears were in view. Still there and they hadn’t moved a hundred yards from where I saw them last evening. How many days will they use this south slope? It was May 5 when I first saw them.

Hotcakes and the water on for laundry. I sawed and split some wood and did a few other small chores. I heard a robin sing across Hope Creek and his voice very high and shrill as if he was really working at it. This evening I would hear another or the same robin.

I wanted to check the sheep again today so crossed and followed my trail of yesterday. Sheep feeding and some laying down. 41 I counted and not one acting like an expectant mother near time to head for the maternity ward. The three bears grubbing away and falling in a heap to take a nap. I was surprised to see an Arctic tern pass and also two swallows. Back by noon and this PM I would write letters and listen to rain drops pelt the big window the first rain since Dec. 5. Now at 7 o’clock broken cloud cover, blowing up and 35°.

May 15, 1986, Overcast, calm & 21°

The snow left the lower south slope across as if by magic. I would make my mid-month observations and then go check for lambs and bears. The lake ice measured 39 1/2 and the last 4 inches was water soaked. I wondered how cold the water is just below 39 inches of ice. I used my water depth and temp. gauge and found the temp. just under the ice 35° and down about 28 inches below the ice it was 36°. So, that explains the ice opening up shore to shore during freezing weather last Nov. Warm water under the ice over powered the weak cold above the ice. North slope snow pack about 1 foot at my gauging station. On the south slope across it is pretty much snow free. The morning ave. temp. for the 1st 15 days of May 26.4 and that compares very close to same period last year. Snow fall 13.

I took glasses and scope down the middle two miles. No sheep down that way but I spotted the three bears better than a half mile farther down than yesterday. The cubs hard at work grubbing and old mom sitting on her rump looking down at the lake. Finally she flattened out for a good nap in the warm sun for it was out bright and the high would be 45° or better. No sign of sheep and I headed back glassing as I came. Eighteen head below Waterfall creek but low on the slope and feeding. Coming on up I raised the total to 37 head and still not one, up in the rocks, alone. While I was using the scope I saw a hole and a good dirt mound where I had never seen one before. Above the big rock face directly across from Carrithers’ Point. So that’s where she and the yearlings had spent the winter. The hole faced southwest and from my beach I couldn’t see it. It was bound to be a big den to accommodate her and the big twins. This afternoon I would cross and climb to check it out. So, lunch out of the way I got my gear together. I would take the Olympus and flash outfit. I would take tape measure paper and ball point. Also the altimeter to see at what elevation it was.

I crossed and climbed my winter sun check trail and then angled up to the right. It still looked good at a few hundred yds. but not the amount of dirt in the mound that I had guessed from the lake using the scope. 1,130 feet above the lake. I looked in and the cause for the shortage of dirt in the mound was clear. She had dug in about 2 1/2 feet and hit a big rock that almost filled the hole. She had dug around it a bit but gave up. No chance of her rolling it out so she called that one a bum one and left it. I feel that she would dig one near if she could find digging dirt to suit.

Till now I had thought that bears know if they are going to be able to complete the den before they start but this shoots that theory down, unless she was digging for a ground squirrel which I doubt.

May 20, 1986 Overcast, blowing up & 28°

Last evening I brought my taters in but didn’t think of my apples (3) and orange (2). That cold wind had them well chilled but I doubt that it hurt them. I noticed them first thing and brought them in. A short time later I saw the temperature 26°.

It was a chilly morning and I wrote a letter and sorted a batch. Some people keep old letters. If I did I would have to rent storage space.

This morning I put that new brush in my Hoky sweeper and what a difference. It pushes as if it is doing some good and I emptied three times as much dirt and carpet nap.

May 22, 1986, Partly cloudy, breeze dn. 33

This afternoon I would take glasses and scope to Low Pass beach for a good view of Falls Mt. The lake is very good under a 55° sun and a fair breeze.

I knew of four lambs and saw them so recent that I knew there were four although I couldn’t see them all at the swing of the scope. And I saw a single ewe against a high wall. She was standing in the shade and I waited for a lamb to get up. I watched for quite a while and none did. She moved out a few feet to something light in color and stood with her head down. She moved away and back again to this same object. She laid down near it. A dead lamb I figured, and if it was, it would be the first to die at birth. If it was dead I wanted to see it. I picked up my gear and went across to the shore line a mile closer and put the 40 power on. It did look like a lamb laying there. The sun was high in the sky. I could make the climb and be back down in good time. I figured it to be at 2,000 feet above the lake or better. Lots and lots of loose rock and a big scab rock to go over. I had never climbed it there but had climbed farther down.

All unnecessary gear would stay with the scope. I wished for my climbing staff for the loose rock climb. I took a good look at the mt. for one can get lost due to everything being so big when you get there and you can see such a small area of the mt.

The climb went well. A cool down lake breeze kept it from being too warm. I say, if your fingers don’t get cold on a climb the day is too warm. Up and up and scads of loose rock. A couple places where very cold mt. water gushed out and back into the loose rock a short way down. I got there and no ewe and no lamb. Was I lost on the mt. That wall checked out I followed it down and around to the next one. No, that was not it. I happened to look around to see the ewe passing behind me and headed down. Where had she been for it was a big pocket in the mt. and I saw it all. So I went back and checked again. Certainly no lamb there so I headed down the mt. I looked for long runs of fine scree for then I could make much better time descending and no danger of falling due to unstable coarse rock. It was good to get down on the lower slope with its moss and spruce. At the scope I checked and I had left it trained on that dead lamb object. It wasn’t there. Then I saw my ewe running across the slope leading back to where I had seen her. She was cautious for she had seen me there. I’m convinced she had a lamb, by her actions but what happened to it. I suppose a golden eagle could have taken it while I was climbing but I rather doubt it. I had looked for eagles before I started up. I’ll never know for sure but I’m glad I made the climb. Home by 6:15 and supper soon after. Now at 8:15, Partly cloudy, breeze dn. & 45°.

May 23, 1986 Clear, Calm & 27°

Again this spring and every spring neat round holes melted through the ice. If no bubbles are visible just wait a few minutes and they make their appearance and may perform for a half minute or longer before a rest period. Evidently there are some springs in the lake bottom and air or a form of gas is discharged with the water. Strange how a string of small bubbles can melt a 4 foot diameter hole in 35 inches of ice. The upper end is great for its open pools in otherwise thick ice.

May 26, 1986 Nearly Clear, Calm & 27°

After bedding the blade in my new knife handle I read a bit more before lunch. This afternoon I wanted to check my ditch up the creek. High water last year broke my rock work letting about half the flow come into the second ditch. So I dug out my hip boots and took my well-worn No. 2 shovel up the creek. Still lots of ice and I couldn’t repair the main break but the water was flowing merrily down the 1st ditch and no ice right where I could do a lot of good. A big granite boulder in the center blocked other big rocks to form an obstruction in the ditch. I worked at it for a couple hours and did a lot of good but that big granite one stayed. I came for my lever hoist and some line. Saw a fresh moose track where none had been 1st trip. Saw the moose young & spooky as I went back. I pulled the rock downstream and to the side. Now I am ready for more water and it will come for the lake is rising and up 1 inch from winter low. Now at 7:45, Partly Cloudy, calm and 45°.

May 30, 1986 Partly cloudy, lt. breeze, balmy [RLP is now working at Port Alsworth]

Jay showed me the solarium he had built of stone and wood for Bella.²⁶ It is an addition to the lodge. Thermopane glass on all three sides. Several sky lights in the roof. A slate floor and pretty nice stone work for an amateur.

After supper we went out to take off. Warming the engine he taxied up the lake and it was quite a long ride on the water. He got started on politics of past days and we just cruised on and on until he said, Well, maybe we had better take off. So we flew and landed over next to Mark Lang’s beach and the Post Office.²⁷ I waited at the plane while he went for his mail. He was gone quite a while and apologized for it being so long - had to make a phone call. Then he got out his check book and said, How much do I owe you? What is a good welder worth? I told him I would like to do it just as an accommodation. Oh no! I want to keep it so you will come again when I need help, he said. So he wrote and handed me a check for $160.00. He left me with the impression that an ex-governor gets a pretty good pension. I saw him off and then trudged over to Glen’s to find I would have two men sleeping in my basement apartment. I knew one. Fred Walatka, a surveyor from Anch.²⁸ The other his helper. They were studying some maps of the area. Doing some surveying for several in the area.

Not late so I went to put the new belts on the grader engine. It was past bed time when I called it a day. Who did I find in my Polar Fleece liner? No other than Fred the surveyor. Two bunk beds in the room so I slipped into another. Next morning I said, Fred what do you think of polar fleece liners? I think they are pretty nice, he said. I told him it was my bunk he had occupied. Oh, I’m sorry, I should have asked you which bunk was yours, he said. No problem, Fred is a good man and an old timer.

May 31, 1986 Partly cloudy, Calm, mild [RLP has returned to Twin Lakes]

I got a fire going and lots of water on to heat. I wanted to get rid of civilization’s evidence. My robbers came and the young ones too. Jay had told me of seeing a squirrel kill a young camp robber on their bird feeder just outside the window. Not only killed it but ate part of it. All my duds on the line I had some fried spuds and an egg plus cold porridge pudding. Brought my laundry in to dry overnight and turned in at nine. In the morning I would sleep in. At nine partly cloudy, calm & 45°.

June 7, 1986 Overcast, Raining, Calm & 40°

Darn - 5 o’clock instead of 4 as I had first thought. A good night with the sound of rain. Out front was choked with ice when I rolled out but it would soon open up to close again later.

Taters for breakfast and then the bean pot over the hot spot. I looked for sheep and saw only a very few. They had moved out on top. A check for caribou bulls showed only a few but later I could see all eight and they seem to like the brush on the Cowgill benches.

New snow on Spike’s Peak and its up country neighbors. It was raining a steady light rain here at lake level. I would write letters and see what developed. It rained more and harder and then a breeze came down and picked up to a blow. The ice started to come by Carrithers’ Point and fill in my large farm size open pool. While I wrote this afternoon the ice passed in parade. The raining had ceased and it was fairing up for a real decent afternoon. I wrote and wrote and checked on the bulls [caribou]. Finally I heard the sound of heavy seas churning the edge of the ice field. The lake was now open from Carrithers’ Point to the upper end. An early supper and I went up to see the first white caps of the season. 216 days of ice till now and good to see water in motion again. As I came back I could see the 8 bulls feeding and pretty high. They may take a notion to go up the Hope Creek caribou trail. Now at 7:30, partly cloudy, blowing down and 48°. The canoe season is very near.

June 11, 1986 Clear, Calm & 38°

A good night’s sleep and a beautiful early morning. A small patch of ice cubes had drifted into my little bite. I could see my little band of sheep on top of the upper rock face on the point of Falls Mt. A sizable patch of ice along the far side. I couldn’t see the bulls on the hump and I figured they had moved up Hope Creek.

Hotcakes for breakfast and after chores I wondered if the Park Service had anyone in the cabin on the Lower Lake. I had given Lower Twin a call on the Walkie Talkie last evening but got no answer. Perhaps no one near the radio if anyone was there. This morning I would try again. Second call and I heard someone key the mike and Hollis answered. I was surprised and couldn’t imagine him being anywhere but at the lower end for we had no luck reaching beyond this lake last winter. I asked him where he was located and he said, I’m here at Port Alsworth and you are coming in loud and clear. He was