GALLIPOLI PILGRIMAGE - A Comprehensive Study and Guide

By MICHAEL JOHN MATHEWS

For those seeking to know or have a fuller understanding of Gallipoli and the Campaign and for those contemplating a visit a one stop shop. Getting there, staying there, the why, the lead up, military commander profiles, the plan, major actions and offensives, submarines and aircraft, conditions and casualties, the evacuation, the wash up, Victo

• Language: English
• Publisher: Michael Mathews
• Release date: Jun 15, 2021
• ISBN: 9780645217902

Book preview

PREFACE

I am not a historian, a professional writer or a journalist. Rather, like many others, I have a passion for Gallipoli, the people, the campaign, the battlefields, those who served and those who made the supreme sacrifice.

The book is not about the glorification of war; rather it brings into sharp focus the folly of man, the futility of war, the wanton loss of life and the never diminished pain that, like all wars, passes from one generation to the next. That aside, the living have the cause of the dead in trust and it is therefore incumbent on us to treasure and promulgate the example, commitment, fortitude, bravery and sacrifice of all those who served.

Much that has been written on Gallipoli by Australians and New Zealanders concentrates on the Anzac theatre. This is understandable as it is where the Australians and New Zealanders landed and fought and where the Anzac Legend was forged, however, over the prevailing years the story of the campaign in Australia and New Zealand has been embellished resulting in the perception by some of a purely, or mainly ANZAC action, notwithstanding the Anzacs also served at Helles and Suvla, the two other battlefield theatres. The fact the British and French played the lead role must be front and centre, in respect to them and their legacy and to bring the campaign into perspective.

I make no claim to the book being a definitive history or travel guide, rather my intention is to provide a comprehensive coverage of the campaign from the inception to the evacuation. Apart from the practicalities of getting and staying there, I have focused on the key areas, the military commanders, the why, the lead up, a broad understanding of the major actions and offensives and an easy measured guide to getting around. The maps are simple and the satellite images and low level aerial photographs designed to make it easy to readily identify key locations. For reference, there is a chronology and a more than comprehensive index. In essence, a ‘one-stop shop’. There are many books and publications that more than adequately record personal vignettes and considering this I have been very selective.

For those planning a visit and who would like to be ‘more hands on’ I have included some challenges. For those who are not or don’t have the opportunity to visit the personalised narrative makes for a virtual experience, bringing the campaign, the battlefields and the peninsula to life and the next best thing to being there.

In my research I was fortunate to come across many campaign related ‘asides’, concerning people, places, events, actions and statistics. I hope you find them as interesting and informative as I do.

Considering the complexity and controversial nature of the campaign the question was just how much detail to include. In the attempt to strike an acceptable balance I went back to my initial trip in 1967, reviewed and sorted all the unanswered questions I had and the many that have come to mind over preceding visits. Cognizant that it was the Turks who were the ultimate victors there was the constant challenge and responsibility of maintaining a sense of balance that I hope I have been able to at least approach. I will leave it to the reader to be the final arbiter.

Further to this, the Turkish language was written in the Arabic script until 1928 when Mustafa Kemal, later Atatürk, and his self-appointed professors invented and taught a new language using a Latin phonetic alphabet. With the few scholars remaining and the limited number in training who are capable of translating the old language only a limited number of documents relating to the campaign have been tackled, not to mention the myriad that cover the 600 years of Ottoman (people of Osman) rule. Correspondingly, to gain a comprehensive understanding of the campaign from a Turkish perspective has been and still is somewhat restricted, particularly when compared with the readily available voluminous records held by their erstwhile adversaries. That said, from 2000 with improved access to Turkish repositories and wartime archives there have been publications by western academics, historians et al that raise questions as to the accuracy of some of the long accepted and embedded accounts of the campaign, particularly in reference to the Turks. Different from the many engrained views they were better led, better organised and more professional; in effect overall superior to the MEF and why they ultimately prevailed. A pebble can kill a Goliath and that’s the way it was.

From a Mediterranean Expeditionary Force (MEF) perspective there are many actions and events that remain contentious, that are subject to passionate debate and in all likelihood will remain so notwithstanding the numerous books, publications, articles, films and documentaries that have been written or produced over the past 100 plus years.

The MEF was essentially a combination of the army and navy; the naval arm, the Eastern Mediterranean Squadron (EMS). Although there was no lack of goodwill between the two, the same cannot be said of coordinated action. Historically they saw themselves as separate identities and over zealously respected the other’s independence. Apart from the landings and evacuations, there was an absence of an integrated plan and what proved a factor in the campaign’s failure.

My introduction to Gallipoli came about by chance in 1967 on a totally unrelated event. Together with a long time mate we were en route to Australia two up on a Triumph motorbike when due to low octane fuel a piston blew between Istanbul and the Black Sea town of Samsun, necessitating a return to Istanbul and a stay while spare parts were sourced from England. To fill in what became an inordinate wait we hitchhiked to Gallipoli, a place we knew too well but as to the geography we knew little. The end result, we arrived at Gelibolu (Gallipoli Town) and asked for directions to the battlefields only to be advised they were some 38.0kms south; close to Eceabat on the western shore of the Dardanelles Straits. In those days Anzac was a lonely place, few visitors, next to no signage and sparse local information. We walked out to Anzac from the main Eceabat-Istanbul road through open country along an unsealed narrow road that from memory took two hours or more. Along the way we encountered two men, the only humans we saw, repairing a farmhouse and who by chance were eating their lunch by the roadside. In spite of the language barrier we managed to strike up a rapport and together ate some watermelon brought by a young man who seemingly appeared from nowhere. They kindly gave us some cartridge cases that at the time would have been commonplace for those involved in farming or construction.

When I returned in 2001, by means of a photograph taken in 1967 and the hand of lady luck, I was able to locate one of the men, Hakki, then in his mid-sixties (the other had passed away), in what was an emotional reunion (photographs inside those facing page 408). I was directed to his cottage by a middle aged man who I later discovered was the young man who had brought the watermelon and still remembered our visit from all those years back. He was somewhat disconcerted that I could not recognise him. During my next visit in 2005, I attempted to again make contact with Hakki, but sadly he had passed away, however, I did visit Ömer, ‘the watermelon man’ and now a grandfather, and again on all subsequent visits. Not long ago he told me his most vivid memory of our first meeting was the quality of my boots. In fact, they were nothing more than what were known as desert boots, well-worn and at the time all that I could afford. It would seem that it is all about perception.

Continuing, we eventually found ourselves at the Lone Pine Memorial and Cemetery. The wind sighing through the trees, the silence, the loneliness and the moving inscriptions on the grave pedestals brought forth strong emotions and needless to say had a profound effect. Tears welled in my eyes as I imagined, somewhat illogically, how these fellow Australians must feel lying forever in this lonely isolated place so far from their homes, loved ones and friends.

I was always puzzled on just how we managed to stumble on Lone Pine and enquired of Ömer where the farmhouse was. Although no longer there, he advised that it was at the southern part of Legge Valley that would indicate we walked up the eastern slope of Pine Ridge to the 400 Plateau and the Lone Pine Memorial and Cemetery immediately in front, which at the time was partially hidden by a dense bank of pine trees lining the perimeter.

Back on the main road hitchhiking it came as a surprise to be picked up by a charming Turkish colonel in a jeep type vehicle who was heading an army convoy not far north of Eceabat. Speaking good English he was fascinated by our travels and interested in our motivation in visiting Gallipoli, knowing the area and campaign as intimately as he did. The majority of Turks on the peninsula have no lack of goodwill towards Australians and New Zealanders and from time to time will good naturedly address you as ‘Anzac’.

To our everlasting regret, Lone Pine was the only place we visited not knowing at the time Helles, Suvla and the altars such as Ari Burnu, Chunuk Bair, Gully Ravine, Hill 60, the Nek, amongst so many others, on which the manhood of Australia, France, Germany, India, Nepal, Newfoundland, New Zealand, Turkey, the United Kingdom and others was offered up. Adding to the regret and frustration we had copious time to the extent that we hitchhiked to Tehran and back and then a ship to Israel where we spent a month between three kibbutzim prior to returning to Turkey.

Years went by and it was thanks to a business associate, an Englishman living in South Africa, who reignited my interest. He continues to research a paper covering the controversial subject of why the ANZAC landing was misplaced. Planning a further visit in 2001, he invited me and two mutual friends to join him. We jumped at the opportunity and subsequently spent seven days exploring Anzac. The knowledge he had accumulated translated to literally following in the footsteps of the Anzacs, particularly so when we attempted to replicate the 2.0km planned route, conducted in darkness, of the New Zealanders in the August Offensive from No.1 Outpost up the Sazli Beit Dere (valley) to Rhododendron Spur, the Apex, the Pinnacle and Chunuk Bair. Like part of the New Zealanders we also got lost and even in daylight, due to the complexity of the terrain, it took us approximately four hours to travel what became approximately 4.0kms, graphically illustrating the New Zealander’s tenacity and courage.

I was now fully hooked and on my return to Australia read everything possible on the campaign, not only on the Anzac theatre but the Helles and Suvla theatres. The more I read the more I was drawn back with the outcome that I was gifted to be able to make many further visits.

Let me now share with you the unique experience of visiting this silent, eerie, some would say sinister, but wonderfully uplifting place we know as Gallipoli.

GETTING THERE - BEING THERE

Turkey

Geographically and strategically Turkey is of great significance being at the crossroads of Europe, the Middle East and Asia. From west to east it measures approximately 1500.0kms and from north to south approximately 500.0kms. Covering 799,000 square kilometres it has the distinction of having one foot in Asia and the other in Europe. As a comparison the Australian state of New South Wales (NSW) covers 801,000 square kilometres, New Zealand 268,000 and the United Kingdom 243,000. Turkey shares its eastern border with Georgia, Armenia and Iran; its southern border with Iraq and Syria; its western border with Greece and Bulgaria; and its north coast adjoins the Black Sea. Istanbul, the largest and prime commercial city, is the only naturally occurring transcontinental one in the world, its uninspiring name derived from a corruption of the words that appeared on the old Greek signposts, ‘To the City.’

Turkey is a Republic, the capital Ankara (formerly Angora) as of 1923 the seat of Government. Rather than beholding to the military as was previously the case the current three term AKP Government (Justice and Development Party); previously under Prime Minister Recep Tayyip Erdoğan (Erd-waan), President effective 28 August 2014, has managed to implement an independent stance and is now a power in its own right. In the election of early June 2015 the AKP, unexpectedly, failed to win a majority, partly due to unexpected support for the right wing MHP (Nationalist Movement Party). With the AKP unable to form a coalition the country again went to the polls on 1 November with the AKP winning a majority and a fourth five year term. On 24 June 2018, the AKP called for snap election was held, the objective to mandate the yes vote per the referendum of 16 April 2017 to change to a Presidential form of Government. The AKP proved successful in the first round, the mandate constituted and in conjunction the number of deputies increased from 600 to 660.

The autonomy claim by the PKK (Kurdistan Worker’s Party), branded by Turkey the US, EU and others as a terrorist organisation, was officially declared in 1984 with bitter fighting interspersed by ceasefires. The latest, ending in July 2015, has been followed by further conflict and terrorism. How this seemingly intractable conflict will end only time will tell.

The population stands at approximately 80,000,000, more than double what it was in 1967 (at the time of World War I, 21,000,000). Ninety nine per cent of the population is of the Muslim Faith and primarily of the Sunni Sect. The Kurds are by far the largest minority representing twenty per cent of the population. Despite recent tension between the state and religion more than seventy per cent of Turks support the secular nature of the state as proclaimed, established and built on from the time of Atatürk. The country is a contrast with those in large cities and towns living mostly a western style of life, whereas those in villages and rural areas live in the traditional style much as they always have. As with many developing countries, there is a continuous migration to cities and towns resulting in more than sixty per cent of the population living in an urban environment, graphically illustrated by the ever increasing population of Istanbul that now stands at approximately 16,000,000.

Turkey has enjoyed unprecedented growth and prosperity over the past 18 years with a reasonably stable currency and increasing employment. In 2019 GDP was US$761 billion (World Bank) placing it in the world’s top twenty economies. Coupled with this its military machine is one of the more powerful in the world. However, despite economic progress it remains relatively poor with a 2019 GNI per capita of US$9690 (World Bank). Turkey’s tourist industry is rapidly expanding ranked sixth in 2019 on the list of the 10 most visited countries even if under duress in recent years by ethnic strife. The warm climate of its Mediterranean coastline, its vibrant culture, its diverse geographical beauty and treasure trove of historical and archaeological sites make it an appealing destination.

Gallipoli Peninsula (Anzac)

In July 1994, a catastrophic fire swept through 4000 hectares of the forests, heights, spurs and deres of Anzac and the surrounds returning Anzac close to how it would have been at the time of the evacuation in December 1915. In good faith the authorities, with the voluntary assistance of students, set about a reafforestation project. The fast growing pines and the ever multiplying Mediterranean arbutus (arbutus andrachne), not to mention the scrub, are now such that much of Anzac is overgrown. It won’t be too long before identifying key landmarks, not to mention walking excursions will prove near impossible. That said, in the last two years the Directorate of the Gallipoli Historic Site has cleared some areas, such as the front and rear of Plugge’s Plateau Cemetery; the western side of the Lone Pine Memorial and Cemetery; behind Baby 700 Cemetery; and the Nek to Walker’s Ridge Cemetery (page 34). It can only be hoped that this is the beginning. I suggest that if planning a visit you do so sooner than later.

When to Visit

Unless you prefer cold weather, November, December and January are not recommended as snow falls are possible. Conversely, June, July and August can be very hot and moving about debilitating. April, May, September and October are the better choice, in particular May to early June as there is minimal rainfall and should you be driving an all-purpose vehicle would not normally be required keeping in mind that some sites, primarily at Suvla, are accessed by rough and sometimes muddy tracks. The prevailing winds are from the northeast and blow almost continuously, but less so during spring and summer. During the winter the winds can be severe, even gale force, and often play havoc with the scheduled ferry services across the straits, which can be further disrupted by heavy fog.

My suggestions on when to visit are made on the assumption that most will be visiting in spring, summer or autumn. There are divergent views but I would avoid visiting during the Anzac Day Commemorations. However, if you do plan to visit at this time keep in mind that the week prior to 25 April and one or two days after Anzac, in particular, can be crowded and accommodation and prices at a premium. With the crowds and the corresponding noise around the 25th finding the required contemplative space represents a challenge. One of the enduring memories of Anzac is the silence and stillness. It seemingly envelops you, metaphorically as a fog would, and can only be experienced by going off and spending some time alone. It is only in the deres, on the slopes and spurs can it be seen how it was. The Gallipoli Campaign is known to the Turks as Çanakkale Geçilmez (Çanakkale War) and celebrated on 18 March; the day the British and French fleet attempted to breakthrough the Dardanelles and was repulsed. There is a multitude of Turkish visitors and anecdotally up to a thousand coaches arrive from all over the country. Should you be driving and arriving from Istanbul or Europe you could find yourself in a queue one kilometre or more from the Eceabat ferry wharf (scheduled coaches excluded).

How Long to Stay

How long to stay is subjective and dependent on the level of interest, and to most a time issue fitting in whatever else is on the itinerary (chapter, Covering the Battlefields). Putting aside the battlefields, the archaeological sites and the country on and around the peninsula and Çanakkale is spectacular and can make claim to being a standalone tourist destination.

Visa

Nationals of New Zealand and those of some European countries do not require a visa. Others do, including those from Australia and Britain. The cost for Australians is US$60.00 (2019, twice what it was in 2012) bearing in mind the cost varies from nationality to nationality. For many nationalities, including those above, a visa on arrival is available online at www.evisa.gov.tr/en. For others a visa must be applied for from Turkish Embassies and Consulates. It is advisable to check your particular status well before you travel.

By Air

Currently there are no direct flights to or from Australia or New Zealand however, for Australians this may change as an Air Services Agreement was signed by Australia and Turkey early in 2010. With the new airport, Istanbul Airport, now fully operational (6 April 2019) Turkish Airlines is considering an Australian service as part of its expansion plans. There are direct flights from Bali and Jakarta to Istanbul with Turkish Airlines and Singapore to Istanbul with Turkish and Singapore Airlines, while airlines based in the Middle East, such as Emirates and Qatar, have scheduled services via their home bases. From Britain and many European cities Turkish Airlines and locally based carriers have direct or connecting flights. If applicable, it is worth checking the availability of charter flights and budget airlines ex Europe, such as Easy Jet and Ryanair.

The new airport, with the largest terminal in the world under one roof, can handle 90,000,000 passengers a year and when complete with further terminals and a total of six runways, 200,000,000. The airport’s predecessor, Atatürk International Airport, is to be downgraded and used for armed services and VIP operations, the prime terminal used as an exhibition centre and the freed up land for parklands and fairgrounds.

Coach, Train, Car

Coach and train services operate from a number of European cities (your travel agent can provide details). Be sure to check what visas, if any, are required. From Europe, you enter Turkey from Bulgaria or Greece. If crossing at the Bulgaria Capitan Andreev/Turkey Kapikule border post continue for approximately 40kms to Edirne (Adrianople, a past Ottoman capital and the site of a number of magnificent mosques). From there, the E80 takes you the 15.0kms to the E87 and then south 220.0kms to Eceabat via Keşan. With a stop the trip takes approximately five hours.

From Alexandroupolis, Greece, it is approximately 50.0kms to the Greek Ipsala/Turkey Kipi border post, a further 20.0kms to the E87 and then 100.0kms to Eceabat. Including a stop the trip takes approximately three hours, bearing in mind times can vary considerably dependent on traffic and formalities at the border.

If you are `bringing a vehicle to Turkey it is compulsory to have proof of insurance together with the applicable registration papers. Cars can be brought in for a six month period without charge, however, the entry date is recorded in your passport and heavy fines apply if the time is abused.

The coach trip from northern Europe is long and tedious and can be more expensive than flying, however, if that is what you are planning, or part of, change at Edirne, in European Turkey, approximately 40.0kms from the border, and take any service going south, via Keşan, to Eceabat and Çanakkale. From Greece, the Turkish Kâmil Koc (coach) company operates a daily service from Alexandropolis to Keşan from where frequent connections can be made to Eceabat and Çanakkale. They also operate a daily service from Çanakkale to Alexandroupolis with an hour-and-a-half layover at Keşan, departing Çanakkale at 11.00am and arriving at 1.30am the next day. If returning from Eceabat or Çanakkale to Europe the Metro coach company operates a daily service to Sophia, Bulgaria, with connections to other European destinations. Alternatively, take a coach to Edirne and change there for ongoing services to Europe. It is well to keep in mind that the Turkey Kapikule/Bulgaria Kapitan Andreevo border crossing is the busiest in Europe, at times chaotic and the formalities time consuming. As coach schedules and times can vary be sure to check with your travel agent or, if applicable, the coach company offices just outside the Çanakkale ferry wharf.

Vehicle Hire

Rather than hiring a vehicle in Istanbul a better option is to take a coach, or fly to Çanakkale and hire a vehicle there, however, should hiring a vehicle in Istanbul be an integral part of your itinerary go west to Silivri and then to Tekirdağ (135.0kms). A further 84.0kms, the E84 crosses the E87. From there, go south to Eceabat via Keşan. With a stop the journey takes approximately five hours. There is also a coastal route from Tekirdağ via Sarköy, but I suggest you avoid this as the road is far from the same quality as the main highway.

Internal Coach Services

Coach services in Turkey are exceptional, with ultra-modern equipment, nationwide coverage, excellent service and professional drivers who adhere to the speed limit. Assuming you are arriving at the newly operational Istanbul Airport, on the European side of Istanbul, and plan to go immediately to Eceabat or Çanakkale the most efficient and economical method is to take a coach from the bus stand one floor below the arrivals concourse. Coaches depart every 30 minutes to major Istanbul destinations, including Otogar Esenler, the coach terminal on the European side of Istanbul from where coaches depart for Eceabat, Çanakkale and further south Izmir and Ephesus. Go to bay No.3 and take the No.6 coach, the cost TL23.00 the distance approximately 40.0kms and the duration

approximately one hour. Alternatively, a metered yellow taxi can be taken for approximately TL160.00. There is no charge for luggage. Unlike its predecessor, the now downgraded Atatürk Airport, the metro has yet to be connected. Subject to delays it will when completed join the established network that includes the Otogar Esenler station.

Otogar Esenler is a huge complex resembling an airport with stores, food outlets and a myriad of coach offices and terminals. There are five operators to Eceabat and Çanakkale; Istanbul Seyahat, Kamil Koç, Metro, Pamukkale (recommended) and Truva. There are numerous departures and you will not need to wait long. The cost to Eceabat/Çanakkale is approximately TL120.00 and for that you get a five star ride, including a dedicated attendant serving coffee, tea, juice, water and snacks, not to mention, if lucky, a splash of cologne, all items included in the price. The distance is 315.0kms and with a comfort/refreshment and intermediate terminal stops the transit is five to six hours. Carry some small change as you really do need to spend a ‘penny’ at the rest stop. The Truva (Troy) Coach Company is based in Çanakkale and with 14 daily services has the most comprehensive schedule. If leaving from Çanakkale to connect with a morning flight from Istanbul their early morning services depart at 1.00am, 3.00am, 5.00am and 7.00am (a half-hour later from Eceabat).

Phone: [phone]

Halfway to Eceabat you pass through the ancient scenic city of Tekirdağ, formerly Rodosto, a popular summer tourist destination on the Sea of Marmara. The countryside to here was once agricultural, but is now changing with apartments, homes and commercial premises slowly creeping across the landscape. Going further south agriculture still prevails, apart from the numerous hotels, pensions, resorts and camping grounds on the seaside that come alive during the summer with the influx of mostly local tourists.

Early in 1915, Mustafa Kemal, later Atatürk, spent time in Rodosto honing the 19th Division prior to taking it to the peninsula on 25 February. Also significant, many of the exploits of the British submarines and the Australian HMAS AE2 took place in the adjoining Sea of Marmara. Prior to reaching Bolayir (Bulair), at the narrow waist of the peninsula, you pass through Evrese that interestingly is a rice growing area. South of Bolayir the coach makes a stop at Gelibolu (Gallipoli Town). From there, the road runs past the under construction Çanakkale 1915 Bridge and for most of the way to Eceabat alongside the Dardanelles Straits providing a wonderful panorama, most two lanes, narrow and winding. With work in progress to construct an additional two lanes over the remaining 26.0kms, including six tunnels measuring 8.4kms, it is anticipated that by 2022 the Istanbul-Eceabat-Kilitbahir highway will be four lanes or more.

If returning to Istanbul, don’t be too hasty in leaving the coach bay. At the rear are small buses, their use included in the price, which will take you to or near your local destination. Known as ‘servis’ they can be found at all coach terminals of any consequence. They also operate in reverse and connect with intercity coach departures, however, as they make many stops it can be time consuming and if pressed for time it is best to take a taxi.

By Sea

The passenger service from Istanbul to Çanakkale (255.0kms) is long since gone; however, large, fast passenger and vehicular ferries operate between Istanbul and Bandirma, about halfway along the Asian shore of the Sea of Marmara. Transit time is two-and-a-half hours and the indicative cost TL80.00 and for a car and one passenger TL300.00. If on foot take the municipal bus from near the ferry terminal 20 minutes to the intercity coach terminal. The coach service to Çanakkale (TL45.00) takes approximately two and-a-half hours with the proviso that the overall trip can be longer than the direct coach service dependent on making a quick connection.

Phone: [phone] www.ido.com.tr

Cruise ships ply the Mediterranean and Aegean, some up the Dardanelles Straits to Istanbul (suspended 2017-resumed 2019). If lucky enough to be a passenger, two of the Helles landing beaches, V and S, can be seen on the western shore just inside the entrance to the straits. Should the ship approach from the north Suvla Bay is to the east then Anzac Cove and in between the heights of the Sari Bair Range.

Air Service to Çanakkale

The airport, 3.0kms from the city, was closed in 2013 and part 2014 to facilitate the lengthening of the runway to 2.35kms. Bora Jet operates a daily return service from Istanbul and Anadolu Jet a daily return service from Ankara (both subsidiaries of Turkish Airlines). With the extended runway it is possible that there will be direct flights to and from Europe.

Currency

In the late 1990’s the Turkish economy went through a period of hyperinflation resulting in a shopping bag being put to double use, carrying notes to the supermarket and carrying groceries on the return. With inflation controlled the currency was reissued and renamed the Yeni Turk Lirasi or New Turkish Lira (YTL). Further changes took effect from January 2009; the currency renamed the Turk Lirasi, Lira, (TL) and new coins and notes issued (sub-unit kuruş). As traveller’s cheques are now near extinct it is best to bring cash or use the profuse ATMs. Credit cards are widely accepted.

Exchange Rates

Note: Prices shown should be taken for what they are, those at the time of writing. With the volatility of exchange rates, particularly that of Turkey, and the uncertain world economy it is prudent to check rates and other costs if planning a visit. To obtain indicative rates go to www.xe.com/ucc/ or www.tcmb.gov.tr.

English

Surprisingly, the number of people who speak English is less than you would expect when compared for instance with South East Asia. Even in better quality hotels where you find English speakers many are not proficient and at times it can be difficult to obtain accurate information. Should you speak German your chance of being understood is doubled.

Istanbul

If spending time in Istanbul it is well worth visiting the Military and Naval Museums. To reach the former, take a bus or the tramway/funicular to Taksim Square centrally located on the European side of the city. If coming by bus, taxi or driving via the Galata Bridge that crosses the Golden Horn the hill leading to the square is long, winding and steep and brings back not so happy memories of the struggle we had pushing the motorbike up here and beyond to a repair shop in 1967.

From the square walk one kilometre up the wide tree lined boulevard, Cumhuriyet Caddesi, to the Istanbul Military Museum on the right (closed Monday, Tuesday). Formerly the Ottoman Imperial Military Academy its most illustrious alumni-Mustafa Kemal (Atatürk) of the class of 1905. Renovated in 1993, it is vast with an extraordinary display of exhibits covering many periods. In one of the two small Gallipoli galleries is a variety of objects including a flag from HMS Majestic and an almost pristine Light Horse troopers’ hat. There are two re-enactments of the landing somewhat similar to the superb dioramas at the Australian War Memorial, Canberra, one accompanied by a sound and light show and a commentary in a choice of languages (you may have to ask the attendant to switch it on). In keeping with Atatürk’s status a display hall is dedicated entirely to him. If possible visit in the afternoon and enjoy the 3.00pm, 45 minute indoor concert of the period Janissary Military Band (Mehter Takimi). Military bands originated in Turkey and have a long tradition.

From the museum take the funicular to the Naval (Deniz) Museum in the Beşiktaş Quarter (closed Monday). Here is a substantive collection of all things naval, particularly period vessels. Opened in 1961 and restored 2008-2013 it is one of the most modern in Istanbul.

The tramway is close by and should you be heading for the attractions or other at Sultanahmet or beyond, alight at Eminönü for something different. Walk to the Galata Bridge and then the shop upon shop and crowded pedestrian tunnel under the approach road. In highly decorative static craft along the waterfront are fishermen broiling fish. Served on Turkish bread it is an appetizing and inexpensive meal (balik ekmek). Stuck in Istanbul in 1967 on a pauper’s budget it was a regular haunt (at the time working fishing craft, rustic, appealing and far less crowded and commercial).

What to Wear

On the battlefields, assuming it is warm, shorts immediately come to mind, however, if you are going to walk off the road, as inevitably you will, ensure you wear long pants as there is a prevalent prickly dwarf oak and if your legs are uncovered they can be severely scratched. Never go to isolated places alone as should you fall or become ill help is not readily available. Carry plenty of water as it can be very hot, particularly if you plan to be in the field for any length of time. Good footwear, sunscreen and sunglasses are a necessity and a basic first aid kit useful. Travel insurance is a must.

Battlefield Souvenirs

As you move around, particularly to places off the beaten track, you may come across old wartime souvenirs. Although the overwhelming temptation is to take them the penalties for doing so are severe, quite apart from the danger of handling old ordnance.

Fires

The lighting of fires is prohibited. During the summer months, in particular, the undergrowth is tinder dry. Unaware of this I boiled the billy at the 4th Battalion Parade Ground Cemetery in 2001; the fire got out of control and it was only with the help of mates that I was able to extinguish it. Lucky, as it is likely my stay in Turkey would have been protracted.

Furry and Other Friends

There are snakes on the peninsula, some venomous. On my many visits I have seen three, all crossing the road. As in Australia the majority that are bitten interfere with them or, worse, try to harm them. There are also large dogs known as kangals, a mixed breed, but essentially the descendants of Anatolian Wolf Hounds. Invariably in the company of a shepherd they are used to guard the many flocks of goats and sheep that are common, particularly at Suvla (domesticated animals are forbidden at Anzac). There are also foxes, wolves and wild pigs at Anzac and Suvla, but rarely seen by tourists. Tortoises, some the size of a dinner plate, are still abundant and are a direct link with the past, usually seen crossing the road or in the many deres. Their presence provided a pleasant diversion for the men who, in their letters and memoirs, make reference to them. ‘Blake’, taken to England in 1915 is said to be still going strong.

Driving

Driving, if that is your choice, is on the right side of the road and if not what you are accustomed to particular care is required. Turkish drivers, coach drivers excluded, see driving as an opportunity to break the traffic rules as often as possible. They drive at high speed, take extraordinary risks and see overtaking the vehicle in front as a challenge that must be met. Traffic accidents are not uncommon and it is imperative that you drive defensively and not be drawn into the mayhem.

It may only be academic but the speed limit in towns is 50kph, on highways 90kph and on tollways 130kph. Traffic approaching from the right has right-of-way, including roundabouts. Inter-city highways and tollways are multi-lane and most of a high standard. If driving, be sure to carry your driver’s licence at all times together with registration and insurance documents. Drink driving is taken seriously and it is well to keep this in mind if planning a night out. Be vigilant when crossing the road, the driver is king and has little or no regard for pedestrians. If you do happen to break down you will experience the better side of the Turkish motorist who, from experience, will not hesitate to stop and offer assistance.

Fuel

Once expensive, it is now reasonable for those holding a major foreign currency following the devaluation of the Turkish currency in 2018. Gasoline is approximately TL8.00 per litre and diesel approximately TL7.30. It is important to keep in mind that apart from the two filling stations in Eceabat no fuel is available on the battlefields. Be sure, if required, to top up if you are driving from or through Eceabat.

Car Wash

Driving about the battlefields, even for a short time, your vehicle will become messy particularly if it has been raining. The OPET service station in Eceabat has a coin operated pressure wash and for a pittance you can give your vehicle a quick spruce up.

Photography

Taking photographs of military installations is forbidden. When taking photographs be aware that there is not by chance a military establishment or part of one in the background. The Turkish Army is based on universal conscription and this in part accounts for the many military installations.

Banks

Banks open 9.00am to 5.00pm; Monday to Friday; closed 12.00pm to 1.30pm. In fact, most public offices, museums and even hospital clinics observe this midday break.

Public Phones

Phone cards in different denominations are widely available at kiosks. Calls to overseas destinations from public phones are quick, efficient and reasonably priced. Some phones accept credit cards. Use the prefix 00 to dial internationally, followed by the country code and the area code. The country code for Turkey is 90 and the area code for Eceabat and Çanakkale, 0286. Mobile phone coverage throughout almost all of Turkey is excellent. SIM cards for all the major local operators (Turkcell the largest) can be purchased and recharge cards are readily available.

Smoking

For non-smokers there is good news. In 2008, the Turkish Government introduced legislation banning smoking in all enclosed public areas such as bars, restaurants and public buildings. Although it is common to see no smoking signs in non-regulated areas, they are regularly ignored.

Important Phone Numbers

Medical Aid

In Çanakkale there is a Government base hospital, incorporating a dental unit, and also a private hospital. In Eceabat there is a Government medical clinic manned by a doctor 24 hours a day with the treatment of minor ailments gratis. Should you require prescribed or over the counter medicine it can be purchased from the pharmacy in the town square. Your hotel can provide the name of a doctor or dentist if required.

Time

There are no time zones within Turkey. Istanbul is seven hours behind Australian Eastern Standard time, nine hours behind Auckland time and two hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (GMT). Daylight saving time runs from late March to late October and requires a one hour time adjustment.

Embassies, Consulates and Phone Numbers

The Australian Consular Office in Çanakkale is located in the Kolin Hotel in the southern suburb of Kepez, directly opposite the Kipa Mall. From the Çanakkale ferry wharf take the municipal bus showing Kepez.

Turkish Embassies and Phone Numbers

AT THE DARDANELLES

In deciding where to stay there are three options: Eceabat, Çanakkale, or on the battlefields.

ECEABAT

Founded by the Phoenicians, Eceabat is a small compact, seaside town with a population of 7000. Known as Maydos prior to 1923 it is located on the European, battlefields side of the straits. Apart from being the jumping off point for the battlefields, Eceabat and Gelibolu (Gallipoli Town) are the major transit points for traffic crossing the Dardanelles Straits to Çanakkale and southwest Turkey (Eceabat-coaches and light and local traffic only).

During the summer months the population swells with mostly Turkish visitors holidaying here, at Çanakkale, the environs and the close offshore Turkish Aegean Islands.

Apart from fishing Eceabat is an agricultural hub with wheat, sunflower, tomatoes and olives widely cultivated and more recently wine grapes. Throughout Turkey the Eceabat, Çanakkale, Kumkale area is famous for its highly sought after rich red, flavoursome tomatoes.

Where to Stay

Hotels

There are a number of hotels, below is a selection. Alternatively, there are pensions (pansiyons) in and around the town.

Three Stars

The Aqua is located on the waterfront 800 metres south of the town square and incorporates a good quality restaurant. Of beautiful stone construction it was in an earlier life a tomato canning facility.

Boss 1, 3 stars and Boss 2, 2 Stars/Backpackers

Boss 1 Phone: [phone]

Boss 2 Phone: [phone]

[e-mail]

Boss 1 is situated in the main square. Boss 2 is inland of the Maydos seafront restaurant, one kilometre south of the town square. The Aqua, Boss 1 and Boss 2 are of the same group.

Opened in April 2008 the property is located 30 metres to the rear of the main square. Well-appointed it is operated by Polat Cenboz, an accredited and professional guide. With its reputation for hospitality it is very popular, particularly with groups. The hotel is affiliated with Crowded House Tours, a full service travel agency in the main street owned and operated by the dedicated, experienced and long term tour operator, Ramazan Altuntaş. E mail: [e-mail], phone [phone].

A family owned and run hotel opened in 2012. Situated inland on a rise 900 metres south of Eceabat it has commanding 360 degree views of the Dardanelles Straits and the surrounding country. Well fitted out; it has twenty-two rooms all with a balcony, telephone, satellite TV, refrigerator and Wi-Fi. The roof top viewing area provides a magnificent panorama, particularly at night.

Camping

On entering Eceabat from the Istanbul road the long established iconic Boomerang Café Pub is situated on the left, adjacent to the first turn off, a home away from home for many Aussies and Kiwis. At the rear is a small patch of ground, albeit bare and dusty, where tents can be pitched. Facilities are available in the main building.

Hotel Boss 2 (shown above)

The hotel has a dedicated camping area.

Car Hire

Currently there are no car hire companies in Eceabat (see Çanakkale).

Taxis

Taxis are plentiful and available at the taxi rank in the main square. Although metered a price can be negotiated should you want to take one to the battlefields. It is best to talk to your hotel reception who can recommend who to use, bearing in mind an English speaking driver is preferable, but not always easy to find.

Ferries

Vehicular ferries operate between Eceabat and Çanakkale on the hour, half-hour during the summer, except 2.00am to 6.00am when they depart every two hours, however, when required during peak holiday periods they operate on a shuttle basis. Cost one-way is TL5.00 and for a car including passengers TL75.00, or TL85.00 return for same day travel. Transit time is 25 to 30 minutes. There are also smaller ferries that operate from Kilitbahir, 4.5kms south of Eceabat, on the quarter and three-quarter hour. They dock at Çanakkale adjacent to the Eceabat ferry and as they cross at the narrowest point of the straits the transit time is halved. Cost one-way is TL4.00 and for a car including passengers TL65.00, or TL75.00 return for same day travel.

Up until 2012 the two services operated independently but together with most other ferries at the Dardanelles they are now operated by Gestaş a broad based Government/private company that has a variety of ferries, high speed passenger only catamarans (sea buses) and a large Ro-Ro vessel. Facilities are available on all ferries including canteens that sell food, tea, coffee and other non-alcoholic beverages. Passenger saloons are suitably heated in winter.

If taking the ferry to or from the Kilitbahir ferry wharf look up to the memorial on the plateau side above. Made of white painted stones it shows an image of a Turkish soldier, a facsimile of a burning flame and an inscription. Loosely translated it reads: ‘Traveller halt, this soil you are treading on once witnessed the end of an era.’ Close to the Çanakkale ferry wharf is a further inscription on the hillside to the north: ‘18 Mart 1915’, in memory of and a reminder to current and future generations of Turkey’s triumph in the Çanakkale Geçilmez (Gallipoli War). Together with the Kilitbahir Fort they are illuminated at night.

The vehicular ferry that operated between Çanakkale and Bozcaada (Tenedos) has been replaced by a fast, comfortable, passenger catamaran (sea bus), but unfortunately the service can be intermittent. If only for the opportunity to see S and V Beaches at the mouth of the straits it can only be hoped that at some future date it will operate on a more regular and predictable basis (page 402 for vehicular ferry Geyikli-Bozcaada).

Dardanelles Straits

Known in ancient times as the Hellespont for the folkloric Helle the daughter of Athamus, the strategic Dardanelles Straits run for 62.0kms connecting the Aegean Sea and the Sea of Marmara. At the narrows the reach between Kilitbahir and Çanakkale is approximately 1.4kms (technically the narrows run from Çanakkale to Nagara Point), the widest point 6.0kms and the average depth approximately 100 metres. The straits can be treacherous with high winds and a complex current, the lower strata flowing north, up the straits and the upper strata flowing south, down the straits. The only constant is the tide that in the Aegean the Dardanelles and the Marmara is minimal.

Each day up to 150 merchant ships make their way up or down. As a comparison 400 or more transit the Straits of Dover, the busiest in the world. Most pass through the Bosphorus to and from ports on the Black Sea (pilots optional-those with take precedence), the number increasing with currently approximately 50,000 transits per year (the Bosphorus runs for 32.0kms and varies in width from 700 metres to 3.3kms). With many carrying oil the threat of a collision and spill is ever present. Although there has not been a serious accident for many years, the collision of a tanker and another vessel in 1979 off the Haydarpaşa wharf breakwater at the entrance to the Bosphorus occasioned an inferno and the spill of 90,000 tonnes of oil. Shipping is subject to a plethora of rules, amongst them a 1450 metre separation, alternate one way travel and large tankers accompanied by a tug.

As the Dardanelles and the Bosphorus are international waterways and not subject to Turkish jurisdiction (commercial craft, not naval) the authorities can do little more than take all possible precautions accounting for the large orange coloured tugs and other rescue craft that are often seen at the Çanakkale ferry wharf and other strategic locations.

Looking northwest from the Eceabat ferry wharf the first promontory on the Asian side of the straits is Nagara Point, the second narrowest part of the Dardanelles and the site of the ancient Thracian town of Abydos. Off the point ships moving south make the critical elbow like turn to port for the passage through the narrows. During the campaign the Turks built a jetty here from where reinforcements and supplies were moved across the straits.

It is interesting to observe the skill of the ferry captains who many times a day cross the narrows at an angle to the heavy shipping continuously moving north and south. The trip is spectacular with the opportunity to observe close up ships of all types, sizes and origins. From 4 August 1914 to 5 March 1915, primarily between Çanakkale and Kumkale, the Turks laid 402 mines in nine lines, the largest, 53 mines, in February 1915.

Çanakkale 1915 Köprüsü (Bridge)

The building of a bridge spanning the straits had been debated for many years. Begun in March 2017 it is planned for completion in 2023. An immense structure and challenging undertaking it will run from south of Gelibolu (Gallipoli Town) to south of Lapseki. Unlike an earlier proposal it is, fortunately, sighted well north of the battlefields.

Buses/Coaches/Dolmuses

Intercity long-distance coaches going to and coming from Çanakkale stop in front of the Eceabat ferry wharf. Dolmuses (dol-mush), small buses, are very common throughout Turkey dropping off and picking up passengers between towns. Those operating to and from Gelibolu (Town) can be found close by the ferry wharf. They also operate from here to Kilitbahir (4.5kms) where connections can be made by ferry to the Çanakkale ferry wharf and by minibus to Seddülbahir and the Turkish Çanakkale Martyrs’ Memorial, Helles. Minibuses destined for the Gaba Tepe ferry wharf also depart here.

Restaurants

A variety of restaurants, many with outside seating, are located along the main street facing the straits, the cost of a meal much less than what you would pay at similar Australian and New Zealand establishments. Many have a tourist type atmosphere and the food in many somewhat of a takeaway quality. The Turkish favourites of pide, a type of pizza, doner kebab and sis kebab are well represented. Sweets and desserts are very popular and the baked rice pudding, a Turkish speciality, is in a class of its own. For a good fish meal try Liman (Harbour) at the far end of the main street, or the casual, economical, family run Alemta on the roadside directly opposite the tiny fishing harbour at Kilitbahir.

Drinking çay (chai), tea, is part of being Turkish. Served with lumps of sugar it is delicious and refreshing. No matter where you go there always appears to be someone at hand with the ubiquitous tray and small thin waisted glasses, which would help to explain why Turkey has the highest per capita consumption of tea in the world. Grown in a narrow, hilly, coastal belt east of Trabzon on the Black Sea, Turkey accounts for approximately five per cent of global production.

Raki, an alcoholic aniseed flavoured spirit colloquially known as lion’s milk for its milky appearance when mixed with water, is woven into Turkish culture; even part of the nation’s soul. Similar to the Greek Ouzo it is an acquired taste (Mustafa Kemal was a copious imbiber).

Cappuccino aficionados will be in despair. Very few establishments have that big shiny machine we have come to expect on every corner. When ordering a coffee invariably you will be asked if you prefer Nescafé or the very strong Turkish coffee.

Should you wish to do your own catering, there are several centrally located well stocked minimarkets together with fish and meat outlets. Local fruit and vegetables are fresh with the speciality being the delicious tomatoes. Currently, Wednesday is market day, Thursday in Çanakkale, with the back streets full of vendors of many types, with cheese, fruit and vegetables the standouts. Turkish bread is traditionally an uncut loaf and at its best when bought fresh from one of the traditional wood fired bakeries.

Alcohol

Liquor is available at a small speciality store in the main square. Turkish wine is good and inexpensive and available at selected supermarkets and stores. Efes beer (Ephesus), the leading brand, is excellent and available at most kiosks and some grocery stores.

Bank

A bank is situated in the main street running along the waterfront, but should you need to change money out of hours it can be done at a money changer in Çanakkale. Alternatively, ATMs are profuse.

Internet

The most convenient is Mesken, located on the first floor above the phone shop in the town square across the laneway from the Truva coach office. Widely used by teenagers it is inexpensive. To avoid frustration, note, on the computer keyboard the lower case i has a dedicated key on the far right, and @ is accessed by using the ALT and Q keys.

The electricity supply is 220 volt and the electrical sockets the two pin type used in Europe and most of Asia.

Museums

Most museums on the peninsula charge an entry fee ranging from TL2.00 to TL5.00, apart from the Çanakkale Epic Promotion Centre, the former Gaba Tepe Information Centre demolished and rebuilt 2011-2012, (page 175) and the Çimenlik Fort Naval and Military Museum.

OPET

OPET (pet-petroleum) is a major Turkish oil company part owned by the large conglomerate, the Koç Group. By way of its country wide network of retail outlets it is a major player in the distribution and sale of fuel. The company prides itself on its corporate social responsibility and is involved in various activities; in particular, supporting community self-help type projects throughout Turkey.

One of these, Respect for History, was a co-operative program with the Administration of the former Gallipoli Peninsula Historical National Park. The restoration of many key sites of historical significance was undertaken, together with improving the infrastructure of Eceabat and the seven participating villages. A good example is Bigali, where Mustafa Kemal’s home during the campaign has been restored and the village given a much needed facelift. Although altruism was far from the intent OPET’s financial commitment deserves to be recognised. However, in some instances enthusiasm or commercialism got the better of them and in many small tea houses in the villages concerned, tables, chairs and even glasses are emblazoned with their corporate logo.

In 2008, the group completed a major project; the financing and construction of an extensive period scale model of the Gallipoli Peninsula. Refurbished in 2010 and 2013 the site, approximately 60 metres by 20 metres, is on the waterfront adjacent to the Eceabat ferry wharf. In the mid-section, made from polyurethane, vinyl and epoxy, amongst other materials, is a re-creation of the topography of the peninsula showing major roads and key locations. The southern section has a re-creation of the trenches and the adversaries at Quinn’s Post (Anzac) and in the northern section a large sculpture of Mustafa Kemal and soldiers of the adversaries and glass panels inscribed with a condensed history of the campaign. The display serves its purpose as a period reference to the peninsula and the campaign, but in choosing to re-create the position at Quinn’s the British and French, the major contributors of men and assets, have visibly been left out.

ÇANAKKALE

The city, population 145,000, is located at the narrows on the Asian side of the Dardanelles Straits, its name translating literally as pot-fort after çhanak for pot or bowl and kale for fort. Formerly Çhanak, named for its famous pottery, its history goes back even further than Troy. Occupied by the Ottomans in 1367 after first capturing what is now Gelibolu its formal founding and naming is associated with the construction of its strategic castle in the 1450s-1460s by Sultan Fatih Mehmet (2nd reign) and named the Çimenlik Fort after World War I and what is now a museum.

An old port city, it is overlooked by a range of hills rising to 300 metres some 6.0kms distant and split into two almost equal parts by the Sariçay River that runs east to west and flows into the Dardanelles Straits just south of the Çimenlik Fort. Çanakkale is the administrative centre of Çanakkale Province, one of 81, with Eceabat and many other towns and villages under its jurisdiction. Located between the Aegean Sea and the Sea of Marmara it is no stranger to conflict, having seen many invaders including the Byzantines, the Greeks, the Macedonians, the Ottomans, the Persians, the Romans and after Wold War I a brief occupation by the British. The building of fortifications has been part of its history right up to and during World War II despite Turkey, for all but the last year, being a noncombatant. During the war the Dardanelles Straits were closed to all shipping of the combatants in keeping with the provisions of the Montreux Convention of 1936.

Many people with a variety of ethnic backgrounds, including Greeks, Armenians, Kurds, Jews and Romani have made it their home over the years. A small town of 16,000 at the time of World War I, it was severely damaged and many of its citizens evacuated. After World War II it was redesigned, but with rapid growth it is now bursting at the seams.

Throughout Turkey it is known as a university city with 27,000 students from within and outside the country accounting for fourteen per cent of the population. In keeping with its close connection to the Gallipoli War (campaign) it is named Çanakkale Onsekiz Mart Üniversitesi (18 March Çanakkale University).

Where to Stay

There are many hotels ranging from two to five stars. Those shown, apart from the Kolin, are within easy walking distance of the waterfront and the ferry wharf. Many pensions can be found in the surrounding streets close to the wharf.

Hotels

Five Stars

At Kepez, a nearby southern suburb

Four Stars

Three Stars

The same group has similarly named local hotels

Car Hire

There are more than 10 car hire companies in Çanakkale. Below is a selection.

Apart from cars Akin also hire motor scooters. From the ferry wharf, walk 800 metres to the left along the seafront boulevard to the mosque. They can be found opposite at the general store Akin Tekel. On the way you pass the giant wooden horse (Trojan horse) used in the 2004 film, Troy, starring Brad Pitt and Peter O’Toole.

Gezgin is a husband and wife team. They have four well maintained vehicles and their rates are very competitive. Walk up the main street to the first set of traffic lights; turn right, past the service station then 20 metres to the arcade building on the right. They can be found on the first floor.

Taxis

As is the case in Eceabat taxis are plentiful and metered.

Restaurants

A wide choice of eating establishments is available from the upmarket to takeaway. The best place to start is to walk to the left along the broad beautifully maintained modern promenade on leaving the ferry wharf, the Mediterranean type atmosphere particularly appealing. There are numerous outlets with outside seating, ideal for a drink, a meal, a coffee or tea. To the right after leaving the ferry are further establishments and in the narrow streets of the old town behind many restaurants and bars. As is the case with many eating establishments alcoholic beverages are not served.

To experience the best Iskender, a type of Turkish kebab, try Donerci on the right side of the main street at the second set of traffic lights. Just prior to the first set of traffic lights are the Doyum