Goldwork Embroidery Chinese Style: An Illustrated Stitch Guide

By Daiyu Chen

Goldwork embroidery is a traditional Chinese embroidery technique that was originally used in the court or palaces and was exclusive to nobility in ancient times. Similar embroidery techniques were used in Central Asia and Europe in ancient times as well. Today, this sort of technique, characterized by its diversity of thread textures, variety of techniques, unique three-dimensional shape, and ability to blend other embroidery styles, is familiar to and admired by embroidery enthusiasts all over the world.Through her practice in embroidery over the past two decades, Chen Daiyu has simultaneously studied both Chinese and European embroidery. Her work is unique in that it combines the beauty of both forms, making it uniquely original. In this book, she draws inspiration from elements of traditional Chinese painting, combining traditional Chinese silk embroidery with European goldwork embroidery to create stunning, elegant works with a unique Chinese aesthetic appeal. This volume combines images and text, taking the reader systematically through the world of goldwork embroidery with a step-by-step guide. Through this book, you will:•Move from the basics to a comprehensive understanding of Chinese goldwork and the history, tools, materials, and basic techniques of goldwork embroidery.•Move from an elementary to an advanced level by completing goldwork embroideries of sixteen elements, including flowers, birds, insects, and fruit, each rich in Chinese cultural connotations.•Combine various elements into four complete Chinese embroidery paintings to form exquisite, practical decorations to beautify your life.•Appreciate the collision and fusion of the soft luster of Chinese silk embroidery and the retro beauty of European goldwork embroidery and gain new creative inspiration.•Get started with the aid of carefully prepared draft templets, even if you have no foundation at all.

• Language: English
• Publisher: Shanghai Press
• Release date: Jan 10, 2022
• ISBN: 9781938368660

Book preview

Front Cover of Goldwork Embroidery Chinese StyleA Little Butterfly with Rounded Gold Wings Main techniques and materials: long and short stitch (blue and green vintage linen thread), cutwork over felt (bright check), outline (pearl purl) This piece of embroidery depicts a butterfly with rounded wings. It mainly involves two techniques—long and short stitch, and cutwork. Butterflies often play a supporting role in the background of Chinese literati paintings. They are the embodiment of beauty, and the symbol of happiness and bliss. In this piece, however, the butterfly is the protagonist, allowing the audience to focus on its beauty.A Blue, Green, and Silver Butterfly Main techniques and materials: cutwork over felt (bright check), long and short stitch (DMC cotton thread), outline (pearl purl) Traditional Chinese goldwork embroidery mainly involves gold and silver threads, and they are often matched with intense colors such as red and green. A Blue, Green, and Silver Butterfly has achieved a breakthrough in this regard, as its wings are mainly stitched using light teal ombre cotton thread and matched with green and silver bright check of the same color family. The edges are then outlined with silver pearl purl to create a huge, lively, and nimble butterfly.

On page 1

A Little Butterfly with Rounded Gold Wings

Main techniques and materials: long and short stitch (blue and green vintage linen thread), cutwork over felt (bright check), outline (pearl purl)

This piece of embroidery depicts a butterfly with rounded wings. It mainly involves two techniques—long and short stitch, and cutwork. Butterflies often play a supporting role in the background of Chinese literati paintings. They are the embodiment of beauty, and the symbol of happiness and bliss. In this piece, however, the butterfly is the protagonist, allowing the audience to focus on its beauty.

On pages 2–3

A Blue, Green, and Silver Butterfly

Main techniques and materials: cutwork over felt (bright check), long and short stitch (DMC cotton thread), outline (pearl purl)

Traditional Chinese goldwork embroidery mainly involves gold and silver threads, and they are often matched with intense colors such as red and green. A Blue, Green, and Silver Butterfly has achieved a breakthrough in this regard, as its wings are mainly stitched using light teal ombre cotton thread and matched with green and silver bright check of the same color family. The edges are then outlined with silver pearl purl to create a huge, lively, and nimble butterfly.

Copyright © 2022 Shanghai Press and Publishing Development Co., Ltd.

All rights reserved. Unauthorized reproduction, in any manner, is prohibited.

This book is edited and designed by the Editorial Committee of Cultural China series.

Text and Photographs: Chen Daiyu

Translation: Shelly Bryant

Cover Design: Wang Wei

Interior Design: Li Jing, Hu Bin (Yuan Yinchang Design Studio)

Editor: Cao Yue

Editorial Director: Zhang Yicong

ISBN: 978-1-93836-865-3

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1 3 5 7 9 10 8 6 4 2

The Snail

Main techniques and materials: bricking (passing and twist), padding over cotton thread (smooth purl and rough purl)

Snails are very common, and are often depicted in ancient Chinese poems. They crawl very slowly but never give up, so they have become a symbol of endurance. In this piece, the snail’s shell is embroidered using the double-threaded bricking technique—that is, pinning with two strands of metal thread at the same time. It is the same as only working with one strand, except double-stranded embroidery thread is used to fix the metal thread in place. Passing and twist are used alternatively on the snail’s head, while smooth purl and rough purl are used alternatively, to cover the snail’s tail, where the technique of padding over cotton thread is applied.

CONTENTS

Embroidered Goldwork Earrings

Main techniques and materials: beading (pearl), cutwork (rough purl)

Combining embroidery and silverwork is a way to incorporate embroidery into daily life. The surface of this pendant is embroidered using rough purl and pearl, while the silverwork is crafted from distressed sterling silver for a more rustic feel.

Preface

Chapter One A Brief History of Goldwork Embroidery in China

Chapter Two Materials and Tools

1. Embroidery Frames

2. Metal Threads

3. Fabrics

4. Miscellaneous Materials and Tools

Chapter Three Basic Techniques

1. Design

2. Pattern Transfer

3. Tightening the Fabric on the Frame

4. Starting Stitch

5. Padding

6. Couching

7. Long and Short Stitch

8. Pinning the Pearl Purl

9. Cutwork

10. Highlighting the Outline, Beading, and Mini Cross Stitches

Chapter Four Design Gallery

Project One An Autumn Moth Playing with Purple Chrysanthemums

1. Taihu Rock

2. Chrysanthemums

3. Autumn Moth

Display: Wall Hanging

The Owl

Main techniques and materials: couching in a circle (Japanese gold), bricking (Japanese gold), cutwork over felt (bright check), chain stitch (wire check)

This piece is a breakthrough in traditional goldwork embroidery in terms of both subject matter and technique. Regarding the subject matter, owls rarely feature in Chinese paintings. Apart from traditional techniques such as bricking and couching in a circle, the stacking effect on the owl’s wings, the gold and copper Rococo used on its claws, and the chain stitch technique applied on the three-color wire check to create the fluffy feathers on its chest, all exemplify the variety of goldwork embroidery techniques that can be used in combination with different materials.

Project Two Orchids and a White Parakeet

1. Orchid Leaves

2. Taihu Rock

3. White Parakeet

4. Water Ripples

5. Orchids

Display: Desktop Decoration

Project Three A Mantis Teasing a Crab in Late Autumn

1. Bamboo

2. Bamboo Leaves

3. Crab

4. Gourd Leaves

5. Vine

6. Mantis and Water Plants

Display: Tabletop Screen

Project Four A Red-Crowned Crane and Longevity Peaches

1. Body of Crane

2. Small Feathers

3. Flight Feathers

4. Pelt

5. Neck and Head

6. Peaches

Display: Make-Up Mirror

Appendix

Outline Templates

Embroidered Goldwork Earrings

Main techniques and materials: long and short stitch (silk thread), outline (pearl purl), beading (pearl, lapis lazuli gemstones)

Goldwork embroidery is attempting to find its way into our everyday lives through jewelry. To make embroidered jewelry more wearable, the techniques of thread embroidery (cotton thread or silk thread) are mainly used, while goldwork embroidery and gemstones are added only as embellishments. The finished pieces are simple, eye-catching, and unique.

PREFACE

The Little Fox with the Big Tail

Main techniques and materials: couching in a circle (Japanese gold), cutwork over felt (bright check), outline (pearl purl), combination (Rococo and passing)

Western goldwork embroidery is mostly used for religious items and emblems; elegant and light-hearted pieces are relatively uncommon. I made this piece when I was still a student. At that time, I referred to Chinese fine-brushwork paintings to create this lovely little fox, which is complemented by plants and flowers.

Ifirst heard about goldwork embroidery in 2015 when I was studying embroidery in London. In the course of my studies, goldwork embroidery was placed after crewelwork, whitework, and canvaswork due to its inherent complexity. Unlike all other types of embroidery, which can be performed directly after the fabrics are tightened on the tambour, goldwork often has to be padded first. Experienced tailors used to say 70% cutting, 30% sewing, and this is the case for goldwork embroidery. Good padding is like good infrastructure—a small, carefully-built mound creates a stable place for the metal threads.

My first goldwork embroidery piece was called The Little Fox with the Big Tail. At the time, I only knew a little bit about goldwork embroidery, so I used a fox image created by my teacher Becky as a prototype, then added flowers, plants, branches, and tendrils to enrich it. When the piece was finished, my teacher remarked, Although the subject matter is the same as mine, the addition of the flowers and vines gives the feeling of traditional Chinese fine brushwork painting, which is what makes you unique.

It was this comment about brushwork painting that inspired me when I was working on my next piece, A Pine and Crane Together in Spring. Western goldwork embroidery is mostly used for emblems and religious items, but I wondered if I could use it to depict traditional Chinese motifs. So, the motifs on small pillow-ends (embroidery at the ends of vintage pillows) that I had collected from the internet became my source of inspiration. The piece was originally embroidered in silk using the traditional silk stitches. I applied different goldwork embroidery techniques to the corresponding parts of the pattern, and used different materials for each technique accordingly: passing thread