Further Along in Isaan: Information and Insights for Travelers, Explorers and Those Just Passing Through

By Burnett Brown

Some say that Northeast Thailand, or Isaan, is the real Thailand; and it might be! It is definitely, however, a last frontier; a frontier with a traditional or old fashioned way of life that has already disappeared elsewhere. It offers those who seek out less traveled roads a great deal to see, do, experienceand to remember. Further Along In Isaan takes travelers into this mysterious land and introduces them to its enigmatic people and cultureand shows them its towns and cities, its rivers and mountainsand its monuments. A lot of helpful travel advice is also included!

• Language: English
• Publisher: Xlibris US
• Release date: Mar 12, 2016
• ISBN: 9781514433973

Burnett Brown

“Bill” Burnett Brown has been traveling along less traveled roads all his life, some by choice and others by force of circumstance. A sojourner in Asia since the mid-1980’s, he has resided in Thailand since the late 1990’s; his last two books, Thailand Destinations and Isaan Intro, have both provided prospective travelers and students of the human condition with helpful, insightful, balanced information and analysis. A former university instructor, a student of the great philosophers and an avid outdoorsman, Bill grew up in the southern United States and takes great pride in the fact that, so far, he’s still alive.

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Copyright © 2016 by Burnett Brown.

Library of Congress Control Number:   2015920397

   ISBN:   Hardcover   978-1-5144-3399-7

                Softcover      978-1-5144-3398-0

                eBook            978-1-5144-3397-3

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Rev. date: 03/10/2016

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

Notes on English Spelling of Thai Words: Readers often find it confusing and annoying that many Thai words they come across in their reading often have at least two or three frequently used English spellings. It's not unusual, and it doesn't just occur in regard to relatively unimportant or seldom used words. For example, the word Isaan, the semi-official name for Northeast Thailand, is often spelled Isan or Issan. One will also see spelling such as Isarn, Issarn and Isaarn from time-to-time. And, to make things even stranger, some spellings substitute an E for the I, so Esarn and Essarn appear!! One will also see the I or E separated from the rest of the name with a hyphen from time to time, such as in I-san or E-sarn. This is disconcerting but there is no use in getting angry or overly frustrated about it! Thais still use the alphabet which they developed, more or less, hundreds of years ago, and it has little relationship to English or other Westernized alphabets. There is no standardized way to represent the sounds the Thai alphabet signifies with English letters...people of all educational levels just kind of use their own ideas as to what sounds good." To make matters even worse, English equivalents often look different from how they actually sound or are pronounced; for example, the important Thai city or town of Nakhon Phanom is pronounced as Nakhon Peenom, The h is completely silent. I have tried to use common English spellings and I have tried to be consistent throughout the articles. This is the best one can do, although I am sure that sometimes I have not been successful in achieving my goal. I hope the reader will be tolerant and understanding.

Cover images: below are descriptions of the images I anticipate appearing on the front and back covers of Further Along in Isaan. Because I am required to submit the cover and text materials simultaneously, I cannot know exactly where the images will be placed or if all of them will be accepted. Substitution of some images might be required. I apologize for any confusion or difficulty this might cause.

1. Looking north over the Mekong River toward Laos from the riverside promenade of Chiang Khan, a popular resort and shopping town in Loei Province, the northwestern most locale in Thailand's Isaan area, one can enjoy a lovely view and surroundings. Unusual flowers and orchids abound in this part of Thailand, (back, upper center).

2. An enchanting aspect of Isaan is that, while it is definitely a part of the contemporary world, it is also a land of history beforehistory...of dinosaurs, fossils, the remains of ancient towns and cities, and primitive or/or prehistoric peoples as this monument in Surin town suggests, (back, lower center).

3. Northeast Thailand or Isaan is famous for the murals found in many of its temples. Some were painted by renowned artists of the times, but most were done by unknowns and are representations of what is frequently called folk art. The following bas-relief-styled mural is one of several found at Wat Sa KamphaengYai in Sisaket Province, (back, upper left).

4. In many ways, temple or "Wat"Sala Loi in Nakhon Ratchasima city is not typical of those one will see in the Northeast; it is much more modern and futuristic than are most temples. But, it does offer visitors a pleasurable, enjoyable experience...and that is typical of what most temples offer, (front, lower left).

5. Festivals and parades are important in Northeastern Thailand. They give people an opportunity to remember their traditions, to come together as members of their communities and simply to have fun! Here, we see a contingent of young dancers cheerfully marching in their native costumes as an important festival begins, (back, lower left).

6. Most of the major towns and cities in Northeast Thailand have one impressive structure that serves as a recognizable landmark, and functions as a symbol of the locale and its people. The Clock Tower of Vietnamese Commemoration inNakhon Phanom town is an excellent illustration. Meters from the Mekong River and its promenade, The Clock Tower divides the town into its northern and southern halves, is in proximity to the Indochin Market, and signals to all that they have arrived at the town's major nighttime market and entertainment area, and are near some inexpensive hotels, (front, upper center).

7. Small shops are still a very important part of northeastern Thailand's economy. Frequently family-owned, they provide high quality products and excellent service. This silk and fabric shop is located near the famous Tha Sadet market in Nong Khai town, (front, upper right).

8. Every year, the residents of Kalasin Province gather at Fa Daet Song Yang, the site ofan ancient city or town, to honor it through costumed musical and dramatic performances. How historically accurate the festivities are is open to question, but they can be quite entertaining. Similar festivals are held throughout the Northeast, (front right).

9. Prachak Park in Udon Thani city is a very prominent and lovely part of community life. One finds many important and/or interesting sites in its immediate vicinity, as well as markets and hotels. All major locales in Thailand's Northeast have similar parks, (front, lower right).

10. Tuk-tuk operators at Mukdahan town's river promenade wait for customers at the Indochina Market to finish their shopping so they can hurry them and their purchases back to nearby hotel rooms. Much of the Indochina Market is actually underneath the promenade. The Mekong River is visible in the distance, (front, upper left).

Note on Interior Images: I have done my very best to secure correct placement of the correct images in the correct locations in the text. Should there be problems in the placement of images, replication of images, or the use of obviously incorrect images, I sincerely apologize.

Foreword

Foreword to Isaan Intro

PART ONE

INTRODUCING THE NORTHEAST

Northeast Thailand: the Blurb

Visiting a Last Frontier

Getting to the Northeast

Geography

Weather

Historical Context

The People of Isaan

Of Agriculture and Farmers

Snapshot: Down on the Farm

Snapshot: Two Young Ladies Talking Some More

Of Sojourns and Sojourners: People Always on the Move

Farangs and Expatriates

Food and Taste: A Gift of Culture

The Sound of Music: A Gift of Culture

Land of Faith and Belief

Land of the Dark Side: Maw, Maw Pee Dee and Maw Pee Mai Dee

Meet the Red Shirts

PART TWO

TOWN and COUNTRY

Mueangs, Nakhons and Changwats: A Thai Nomenclature of Places

Amphoe Mueang or Provincial Centers:

A General Picture

Taxis, Tuk-tuks and Trains: Getting Around

A Good Night's Sleep: The Hotel Situation:

Land of Shoppers and Shopping

Isaan Nights: The Nightlife

Massage and Soapy Massage

Tak Has Lunch with his Foreign Friend

Sport and Fitness

Medical and Health Care

Money and Banking

Snapshot: Ae and Annie Visiting Korat

PART THREE

TOURING ISAAN'S FIVE NAKHONS

Snapshot: Rock and Lek Taking a Trip

PART FOUR

TOURING ISAAN'S TWENTY PROVINCES with detours

Snapshot: Tak and En Go to a Football Game

Snapshot: Meet the Phu Thai

Snapshot: Ang and Jag Chatting at the End of the Day

PART FIVE

TEMPLES, KHMERS, ANCIENT ONES and the OUTDOORS

Snapshot: Bud and Elliotte Talk about Buddhism

Land of Temples: Twenty-One Good Ones

Some General Pointers about Buddhist Temples

Snapshot: The Monks Come Visiting

Understanding the Khmers and their Temples

Surveying Isaan's Khmer Sites

Of Dinos and Ancient Inhabitants

Snapshot: Ping and Georg Visiting Phu Pha Thoep National Park

National Parks and the Great Outdoors

Outdoor Activities

PART SIX

FESTIVALS, NIGHTLIFE and LOCALLY MADE PRODUCTS

Land of Holidays: Songkran, New Year's and Loy Krathong

Snapshot: Ae and Lek at the Surin Elephant Festival

The Festivals of Lent: The Elephant Festival, the Long Boat Races, and the Rocket and Candle Festivals

Celebrating the Strange: Bang Fai Phaya and Phi Tak Khon

Honoring Great Temples:

The Phrathat Phanom and Phanom Rung Festivals

Celebrating the Beautiful, the Delicious and Ourselves: Flowers, Food, Fruit and Ethnicity

Snapshot: Ang and Jag Discuss a Holiday Trip

Surveying Isaan's Nightlife

Land of Crafters, Crafts and Locally Made Products

PART SEVEN

ADVICE, CAUTIONS AND USEFUL INFORMATION

Three Years in Retrospect: A Changing Landscape

Your Safety and Well-being

Nightlife Cautions

Bargaining for the Right Price

The Survival Eating Guide

Language and Communication

APPENDIX

Notes on Maps: The maps included in the appendix are intended to help readers orient themselves as they read through many of the excerpts. They should be very helpful in doing this. They are not drawn to scale, however, and are not authoritative guides, nor are they intended to be. Readers planning journeys should consult more authoritative sources and must be aware that even these sources almost always contain at least a few inaccuracies if for no other reason than because highway and route number changes are frequent and unpredictable.

Number One: MAP of Thailand and Northeast Thailand or Isaan, showing it as a region within Thailand, with the location of each of the twenty Isaan provinces indicated

Number Two: MAP of Chaiyaphum, Khon Kaen, and Nakhon Ratchasima provinces

Number Three: MAP of Buriram, Kalasin, Maha Sarakham, Roi Et and Surin provinces

Number Four: MAP of Amnat Charoen, Mukdahan, Sisaket, Ubon Ratchathani and Yasothon provinces

Number Five: MAP of Bueng Kan, Nakhon Phanom, Nong Bua Lamphu, Nong Khai, Sakon Nakhon, and Udon Thani provinces

Number Six: MAP: Some Nakhons (Khon Kaen, Nakhon Ratchasima, Ubon Ratchathani, and Udon Thani)

Number Seven: Provincial Statistics: including population numbers for and the size of each province, administrative center population numbers, etc.

Number Eight: Tourism Authority of Thailand addresses and contact information for offices in Northeast Thailand

Foreword

Further Along in Isaan is a reflection of my desire to explore and understand the enigmatic, mysterious, seldom visited northeastern part of Thailand known popularly as Isaan; and to record the information and insights resulting from my exploration in a narrative form for others to enjoy and benefit from. It should prove helpful and interesting for travelers, prospective residents, serious students and the casually curious. I began this narrative of exploration in my last book, Isaan Intro, and much of the material in Further Along in Isaan is the same. However, it is better written and better organized; and much material has been added while a large amount has also been deleted. I have tried to expand my focus on its residents, most notably in the first section, where I have added more excerpts, details and insights. I have also added more "Snapshots" and rewritten most of them in the form of dialogues between ordinary, typical inhabitants whose lives intersect on a daily basis with those of the other characters. Together, their interactions convey a broader picture of and deeper insights into day-to-day life and living, shared problems and ways of thinking and feeling. These are dialogues I have actually heard even if I did not completely understand everything I was hearing!! I have also added new material about specific provinces and places, most notably, Loei, Nakhon Ratchasima City, Surin, Ubon Ratchathani, and Yasothon, but also including other places or areas. I have included "detours" or "visiting" excerpts to give in-depth attention to places or locales many people are or would be interested in visiting if they knew a little more about them, such as the Thai Dam village in Loei Province, the town of Khong Chiam in Ubon Ratchathani Province, and the Ho Kaew Tower in Mukdahan Province. I have visited several previously unvisited temples and Khmer ruins, and have added details about some of them, along with more information about temples and ruins I was already familiar with. I have also expended considerable effort to enhance and add to the materials about locally made products. In regard to 'nightlife, I have tried to consolidate the material, focusing somewhat more on general rather than adult-oriented themes. I have deleted excerpts of interest primarily to expatriate residents and put any relevant materials into more general excerpts or parts such as Your Safety and Well-being." I think readers will enjoy the quite large number of web links I have added, mostly for the purpose of providing them opportunities to view lovely or realistic images of the topics, places, or items discussed in Further Along... and believe me, it was NOT easy to find suitable links as most of those that exist contain very few images and/or are simply misleading sales pitches for this or that product or service...and often, have no relation to what a viewer could reasonably expect to see when accessing them!! I have also replaced almost all of the images that appeared in Isaan Intro with new ones...although there were a couple I simply could not let go of! I can assure all readers that all of these images -- for better or worse - are ones that I took myself during the course of my journeys. I also trust readers will appreciate the "Where do I stay? excerpts I have included; sharing information about places I have stayed is as close as I can come to actually recommending specific hotels or guest houses. I would like to emphasize that in saying that I have stayed at this or that accommodation, I am NOT saying that it is the best available or is even as good as other places. All I am doing is saying, where appropriate, that I liked it or found it at least satisfactory. I hope all readers and/or prospective readers will browse the following Forward" to Isaan Intro as it will provide important background and additional insights into Further Along in Isaan.

Foreword to Isaan Intro

Northeast Thailand is a place I discovered by accident. Like many foreign men who have lived in or visited Thailand, I was taken there by a girlfriend. I liked what I saw. I became intrigued. I felt déjà vu. I wanted to know more. And, I was surprised about how little information exists about the Northeast or how few Westerners actually visit it. Indeed, if it weren't for missionaries, retired military veterans and Isaan ladies bringing their foreign boyfriends home to visit the family farms, perhaps the region would receive no Western visitors or notice at all. Of course, this is an exaggeration, but there is more than a grain of truth in the reality behind my sentiment! And, it is a shame, because the region has much to offer.

In my efforts to learn more about the Northeast, I discovered that almost the only English language materials available about it were tourism promotion items written by employees of the Thailand Tourism Authority, an agency of the Thai government. And, I have seen extracts from these same materials, including the same grammatical and spelling errors, repeated over and over again in all kinds of other sources... including Wikipedia! This material has become the baseline resource for those seeking knowledge about Isaan. While this material is invaluable for those traveling along the road of knowledge -- and along actual, paved or dirt roads - clearly more is needed, even if only in terms of organizing the available material into a more readable format! I have also found the materials prepared by the professional tour and travel companies somewhat disappointing. These are helpful and are actually improving in their quality, but they are insufficient for someone who burns with a thirst for in-depth knowledge as the travel authorities usually view the Northeast, more or less, as somewhere travelers simply pass through or stop at on route to more important or fun places. Of course, from their perspective, they are doing the right thing. The professionals are focusing upon where they feel travelers want to go and what they are believed to be interested in.

Isaan Intro is a unified narrative intended to give travelers and the curious basic information and insight about a variety of topics relating to Northeast Thailand. It is based upon my travels and personal observations and insights, and upon a synthesis of generally known or available information. Some of what is presented is descriptive and exploratory. It will help travelers understand places and people better. Other material is about topics that most travelers want to know about... practical things such as Where? When? and How? Some of the information and insights concern what people need to know, even if they will not realize they needed to know it until they might find themselves in particular situations!! And, perhaps most importantly, the material is about helping a potential traveler develop both confidence that they know a lot and are prepared to handle a lot, along with awareness that there is more to learn and more to prepare for!

I sincerely hope that all of those who will take the time to read and consider the contents of my book will find it interesting, informative, enjoyable, and possibly helpful...and will be glad they read it! I also sincerely hope that the numerous people who have encouraged and supported me in writing a book that has needed to be written will be satisfied that their support and encouragement has been well placed. I can assure them -- and all readers - that I am aware I am simply scratching the surface of something that invites deeper and more serious exploration. I encourage all readers to share their thoughts with me at my e-mail address: [e-mail].

*****

PART ONE

INTRODUCING THE NORTHEAST

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Kwan Phayao, half-God and half-human, resides high upon a hill in southern Isaan, keeping watch as pilgrims and tourists ascend a processional walkway to visit what remains of a once prominent Khmer temple. His day has past, but his spirit and influence remain strong. All one needs to do to know this is true is to look into the faces of those who have come to visit. In many ways, Isaan or Northeast Thailand really is a last frontier, a place where the here and now meets with the past; where people appreciate many things the modern world has brought, but are comfortable with their history and a way of life which most people today consider to simply be...history. It's a rough, harsh land; and the people can seem rough and harsh; they work very hard to live...yet, it's also one of beauty, belief, personal loyalty and intense feeling. It's not for everyone, but it's certainly a nice place to visit and spend some time...and for some, to live.

NORTHEAST THAILAND: THE BLURB

Northeast Thailand, or Isaan* as it is popularly known, is a largely flat, agricultural region approximately 160,000 square kilometers in size, which is roughly between the sizes of the American states of Georgia and Wisconsin, or half the size of the European country of Poland. It constitutes about thirty percent of Thailand's total land mass and is clearly separated or distinguished from the rest of the country by its mountainous western region and by its unique Laotian and Cambodian heritage; it borders Laos in the north and east, and Cambodia in the southeast and south. It consists of between twenty-one and twenty-two million people who live in twenty provinces, primarily in villages and small towns. Most residents of Northeast Thailand are connected at least indirectly to agriculture, deriving at least a part of their livelihoods from farming. Increasing numbers of them, however, are also working in other occupations or trades in either full or part-time capacities as it has become more and more difficult to make a living through farming alone. Many also reside temporarily in other parts of Thailand and work in a number of blue collar and service occupations...if one has ever ridden in a tuk-tuk, or a taxi in Bangkok, it is likely that it was driven by a native of Isaan! It is the least visited and least known region in Thailand. It is best known for its temples and Khmer ruins although it has much more to offer travelers and tourists. Aside from its sometimes oppressive heat and powerful, seasonal rains, it is a generally hospitable, accepting and safe place. It is also inexpensive and the food -- or at least much of it - is great. It must be noted, however, that Northeasterners are not accustomed to meeting and dealing with foreigners, so communicating with them can frequently be difficult. English is promoted as a second language though, and most government offices and large businesses, stores and transportation hubs, with the unfortunate exception of bus stations, have English language signs. Most people consider the period from November to February to be the best time to visit as the rains have stopped and the temperatures are at their most moderate. It is a time when the sky is blue, and when many festivals and events occur that tourists and travelers enjoy. In recent years, the region and its people have been involved in intense political and social conflict with others in the country and in May, 2014, a national government the people of the Northeast overwhelmingly supported was removed by the military. Presently, an unelected, military-backed government holds sway in Bangkok and the direction of things to come both in Isaan and in Thailand is unsettled and unclear. Aside, perhaps, from the presence of large numbers of uniformed security personnel in public places, visitors and travelers will hardly notice or be affected by an underlying tension that permeates the region and much of Thailand.

*****

VISITING A LAST FRONTIER

When one thinks about last frontiers, one usually thinks of places like the Amazon Jungle, the Arctic or the Moon. One does not think of Northeast Thailand, or Isaan. Seldom visited and virtually unknown to most people, it is rather a last frontier, too...a frontier with the past. It is a traditional society which is certainly destined to disintegrate as time passes. Walmart, McDonald's, Holiday Inn and the titans of corporate agriculture are waiting and bidding their time...waiting to welcome Isaan into and help make it a part of the modern world. It is possible that the world over the horizon might actually be better than that of the past...Time will tell! But the Isaan of today, which is still firmly connected to its past, is definitely a world worth visiting and experiencing ... while there is still time to appreciate it.

What makes Isaan different from many other traditional societies is that it has been a comparatively and relatively successful one. While it is definitely no utopia, and it suffers and has suffered from many of the shortcomings traditional societies have always suffered from, it has been a place of village consensus, distinctive small town life, small and family farm-based agriculture, universal land ownership, family store and shop ownership and operation, entrepreneurship, an elevated status for women, religious devotion, respect for education, and a land where almost everyone has had enough to eat with no need for assistance from the Save the Children groups!! Maybe the world need not mourn the passing of societies such as these in places such as Somalia, Afghanistan and Pakistan, but the world will be a lesser place as the inhabitants of the few remaining entities such as Isaan journey along the roads that leads toward tomorrow...

Below are twenty-one reasons to visit Northeastern Thailand. Not all of these reasons will seem like good ones to everyone but that is as it should be. Certainly, Isaan will not appeal to everyone...but, then again, nowhere appeals to everyone! That's the way it is. In any event, after contemplating these reasons, a reader will have a greater understanding of a relatively unknown and seldom visited, but interesting and worthwhile part of the world.

1. A Way of Life: Isaan is characterized by a special way of life. It is based on strong kinship ties, and people are united to each other in part by their relationships to farming, the land and Buddhism. It is a hierarchical and authoritarian way of life, and most modern, sophisticated people will not find it attractive, but it has worked reasonably well over the years, and has, in its own way, offered individuals protection and fulfillment.

2. Small Towns and Small Town Life: one finds true small towns and small town life in Isaan. These towns are separated from each other by vast swatches of farmland and agricultural villages, resulting in genuine, authentic identification and interaction among their inhabitants. They are very different from the towns one finds in such places such as California and the Washington DC - New York City area, where municipalities simply blend into each other, unnoticed, to form huge, homogeneous urban belts aggregated around gigantic shopping malls.

3. Large Towns: there are enough larger towns in Isaan, which is to say those having populations numbering at least forty to fifty thousand inhabitants, so that visitors and residents can find the conveniences and services -- and the choices - to which most urban and urbane people have become accustomed and view as normal. These towns, too, tend to be surrounded by large stretches of farmland, helping give them unique histories and identities.

4. The Countryside: those who have any interest at all in farming, rural areas and seemingly wide open spaces will find Isaan compelling. Large numbers of its people live in these places, and these areas tend to dominate the landscape, especially in the central and southern areas of the region.

5. Country Roads: Northeast Thailand has a fairly good system of roads, many of which are seldom or lightly used. Those who have access to vehicles and enjoy driving in a relatively traffic free environment can enjoy this aspect of Isaan immensely. They will be able to visit temples, markets, towns, national parks and other places of interest at their leisure. Or, they can simply point themselves in a particular direction, and go where the road takes them! One should just make sure the tank is full!

6. Towering Mountains, Terraces and Waterfalls: to be honest the mountains and waterfalls in Isaan are not among the most impressive in the world, but they are quite nice in themselves. The highest peaks in Loei Province rise to heights over 1,600 meters above sea level, and those in neighboring Chaiyaphum Province to heights of more than 1,100 meters. Waterfalls are frequently multi-tired or leveled, with individual tiers rising or falling as much as a hundred meters. The Granddaddy of them all, Namtok Heo Suwat in Khao Yai National Park, has a total drop of more than 150 meters. On the other hand, many have fairly gentle drops and pools of water suitable for swimming or splashing around collect at their bases.

7. National Parks: there are many national parks in Northeast Thailand. They have worthwhile features such as waterfalls, mountains, caves, and wildlife; and activities such as hiking, boating, camping, swimming and nature study. Many of the parks have reasonably priced lodging facilities so that guests can stay in them for at least a few days at a time. Some of them, such as Khao Yai National Park, have achieved international prominence and recognition. In addition, there are similar types of places in Isaan not officially classified as national parks, such as forest parks and wildlife preserves.

8. Buddhism and Buddhist Temples: Isaan is truly a land or Buddhism, and Buddhist temples, or wats, as the Thais call them. By no means do all or most of the inhabitants of Isaan live according to the various precepts of Buddhism, but it has deeply affected their attitudes and ways of thinking...and this is something one can see and feel. The temples come in all shapes, sizes, and architectural styles, and some of them, such as Wat PhrathatPhanom, are internationally renowned. However, even the smallest or seemingly most simple ones often have unique charms and attractions. A substantial number of them maintain museums, archeological ruins and nature parks complete with zoos.

9. Khmer Sites: one can find numerous Khmer ruins scattered throughout the southern parts of Isaan. They are in various states of repair or disrepair, but some, such as those at Phanom Rung in Buriram Province and Phimai in Nakhon Ratchasima Province, are considered to rival the best in Southeast Asia. Those who truly enjoy viewing these ancient places will find many sites to explore.

10. Prehistory Sites: one does not associate prehistoric archeological sites with Northeast Thailand, but there are many of them across the region, both in places along or near the Mekong River, and in the rocky or hilly interior. Some of these sites, such as Ban Chiang in Udon Thani Province and Ban Prasat in Nakhon Ratchasima are world renowned. One may view the artifacts of human development both within the confines of museums and on the walls of caves or cliffs, or in other natural settings.

11. Dinosaurs and Dinosaur Sites: dinosaurs, large and small, once roamed across the vast open spaces of Isaan. One can see the remains of some of these beasts and of related creatures, along with educational exhibits and re-creations, at sites such as the Sirindhorn Dinosaur Fossil Museum in Kalasin Province and the Phu Wiang Dinosaur Museum in Khon Kaen Province.

12. Festivals and Ceremonies: the people of Isaan love festivals and celebrate those held throughout Thailand with fervor, frequently adding their own local touches. They also celebrate occasions that are unique to Isaan or to their localities. Visitors can generally enjoy these festivals with the local folks, and need not worry too much about etiquette, rules and so forth. Festivals can involve great pageantry and be educational, but most are also excuses to have a good time for most people.

13. Shopping and Shopping Opportunities: Northeast Thailand is famous for its outdoor and night markets. The variety of goods one can find at these gatherings is awesome, ranging from the ordinary and mundane, to the strange and unusual. They are fun and prices are usually reasonable. One also finds lots of roadside plazas offering similar goods, and in larger places, Thai department store plazas offering high quality goods. Western supercenters Big C and Tesco-Lotus are present in larger locations, offering their unique type of merchandizing.

14. Great Food: Thailand and Isaan are famous for their cuisine. Maybe nowhere in the world can one eat delicious food as cheaply as in Thailand. For those who are willing to splurge a little, the opportunities for gourmet eating are equally great. One can enjoy good eating at street side stands or in large hotels, and many types of places in-between. The only problem most travelers face - besides the spiciness of some of the dishes -- is keeping their weight down.

15. Lodging and Accommodation in Isaan is very inexpensive, and its quality is generally very good; in many places, it is possible to find tourist-class or resort-style accommodation. This accommodation is uniquely Thai. It is Thai-owned and managed, and based on Thai concepts of hospitality. Travelers will find their experiences in these accommodations pleasantly memorable.

16. An Exciting Nightlife: visitors seldom need to spend nights sitting in their hotel rooms alone watching television. Most fairly large places have a vast array of Thai-style entertainment venues, some of which are quite exciting and vibrant, and while not all of them are easily accessible, and travelers must exercise reasonable caution and good common sense when searching them out and visiting them, they can usually find places where they feel comfortable and can enjoy themselves.

17. Personal Safety: Isaan is basically one of the safest places on the planet. There are dangers, and people must always be cautious -- and more caution is required than previously as its economy has suffered significantly during the past two years - but if there is one place in the world where travelers can relax a little, it is Northeast Thailand.

18. Cultural Diversity: when most people think of Isaan, they think of, with some justification, provincialism. But Isaan is a place of numerous peoples, cultures and subcultures. Many of these, such as the somewhat enigmatic Phu Thai in Sakon Nakhon and Nakhon Phanom, live quietly and unobtrusively among their neighbors while preserving many aspects of their own culture. Those who enjoy being weekend anthropologists will find interesting folks to meet, study and observe in Northeast Thailand.

19. Railroads: for many people, a railroad is not simply a mode of getting from point A to point B; it is an adventure and a link with a bygone era, history and culture. Visitors will enjoy riding the trains and visiting the stations, many of which are intentionally designed to resemble those of the past. Some of them maintain railroad antiquities and museums.

20. Beautiful Women: Thai women are famous throughout the world for their sensual beauty, and among those most familiar with Thailand, there is a consensus that the most beautiful of these beautiful woman come from Isaan! Of course, those men who come to Isaan to find and see them might be disappointed as an extremely large number of those that are not married are working in parts of Thailand outside of the Northeast. However, in November and December, and at other times, the ladies will lay aside their dustbins and stiletto high heels and return home to help harvest the rice. That's a good time for those seeking their acquaintance to visit! Those men who are happily married can always simply admire and enjoy these ladies from a respectable distance.

21. A Special and Secretive Place: there is an area of Isaan where one can find an extremely pleasant and happy lifestyle and situation. It rivals similar areas in Europe and the United States, except that one doesn't need nearly as much money to visit it and perhaps stay there. Most people have no idea that it exists. You must read this book to learn more!!

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GETTING TO THE NORTHEAST

It is not difficult to visit Thailand these days if one has a valid, up-to-date passport and enough money. One should, whenever possible, obtain a two month tourist visa before coming, although the likelihood is that those who are reading this will automatically receive one month entry stamps if arriving by air. Once in Thailand, it is not terribly difficult to enter the northeastern region. From outside of Thailand, however, one can only enter the Northeast directly from points in Laos or Cambodia.

Entry by Air: several cities in Northeast Thailand have airports. Among these cities are Khon Kaen, Udon Thani, Ubon Ratchathani, Sakon Nakhon, Roi Et, Nakhon Phanom, Buriram, and Loei. All of them have one or more regularly scheduled daily flights to and from Bangkok. Most are serviced by regional air carriers Air Asia and/or Nok Air, but Thai Airways and some smaller carriers share service with them in some locations. The Ubon Ratchathani, Udon Thani and Khon Kaen airports also have flights to and from Chiang Mai; and Udon Thani has flights to and from Phuket Island. Air schedules are notoriously changeable so it is recommended that those interested in flying always check with the airlines or with authorized agents; one can usually get this information online. It should be noted that Nakhon Ratchasima, the largest city in the Northeast, has an airport but its status and/or whether or not there are flights to or from it is always questionable as the airport has had a turbulent history! One must definitely check and double-check the situation if interested in flying there. It should also be noted that while several airports are classified as international airports, most never receive international arrivals. The exception to the rule is the one at Udon Thani, which has recently opened an international terminal. One can now enter the region via this airport from several locations in Southeast Asia. It is recommended that those intending to fly buy their tickets directly from the airlines or from authorized agents. One will find the following websites helpful:

http://www.nokair.com/nokconnext/aspx/index.aspx http://booking.airasia.com/Search.aspx http://www.thaiairways.com/ http://www.sawadee.com/transfer/air-bangkok.htm#BKK_KKC.

Entry by Motor Vehicle from within Thailand: entry into the Northeast via Thai land routes is fairly straightforward. While there are several points of possible entry, most travelers and tourists, especially those entering from BANGKOK, snake their way up and through the Petchabun Mountains to the Korat Plateau via Highway or Route Number Two. A large number of them depart at or around the town of Pak Chong, the gateway to Khao Yai National Park, but those that continue arrive about an hour later at Nakhon Ratchasima, the largest urban area in Thailand's Northeast. Also known as "Korat," travelers can continue onward from there to virtually any destination in Northeast Thailand. Of course, one can rent an automobile if one has the necessary items, but most making this journey utilize long-haul buses, and originate their trips from the Northern Bus Terminal, also known as Mochit, or Mo Chit, at 999 Kamphaeng Phet 2 Road in Chatuchak, North Bangkok.** Mo Chit is a massive, sprawling terminal serving many locations in Thailand, and almost all in its northern and northeastern areas. It opens sometime around 05:00 and closes sometime around 23:00, and generally at least one or two buses leave it for the larger towns every hour; buses leave for Korat more frequently. Although the terminal is confusing, it is not difficult to find the ticketing offices; they are all located together on the fourth floor and have both Thai and English language listings. The buses are also easy to find as they are clustered together and are connected to the ticketing offices via a ramp. One needs to bear in mind that frequently not all the places a bus stops at will be clearly listed in posted itineraries. For example, a bus to Korat might also stop at Pak Chong, but one might need to specifically ask about this to make sure; this can take time. These days, large numbers of travelers also originate their bus trips to Isaan via PATTAYA. Its primary Northeast-bound station is located on Charlerm Prikiat Road, just north of where it intersects with Pattaya Klang Road...near the Government Savings Bank. Buses travel via Route 304 through a provincial administrative center named Chachoengsao and approach Korat from the south, connecting with Route Two just before reaching it. It is a lovely and very exciting trip!! Further north, one can enter the Northeast through another exciting, scenic roadway, Route 12, which runs from the city of Phitsanulok to the large Isaan city of Khon Kaen. Still further north, there are a few other roads of lesser quality which may be used to enter Isaan. It's also possible to make the trip by minibus or minivan, although the quality of the providers and their service varies a lot...just as the quality of regular buses can vary greatly. Most hotels and guest houses will help travelers or tourists make travel arrangements although frequently they will be influenced by commissions they receive from providers. An advantage of taking minibuses is that they will usually pick passengers up at and take them to specific hotels or guest houses. Of course, those with their own vehicles can follow the same routes. Those entering via Route Two from the west should make an effort to stop at the Lam Takhong Rest Area, or Suan Na Chat. It is located in Nakhon Ratchasima Province near the boundary between the Pak Chong and Sikhio districts. Here, guests may stock up on travel literature for most locations in the Northeast, enjoy good food and drink, and get some great views of Lake Takhong.

Advice on getting long-haul buses: traveling by bus in Thailand can be very good or very bad...and sometimes a bad bus might be just what a traveler wants, depending on a variety of factors. If one wants to get somewhere as fast as possible with as few stops as possible, and as comfortably as possible, however, they should NOT try to cut corners by buying as cheap a ticket as possible. If one is traveling anywhere for three or so hours, one should make every effort to go via a VIP bus. Tickets can be bought at bus station windows or at transport company offices. These are almost always very short distances from the stations. They can also be bought online. There are relatively few VIP buses during the course of a day, so it's always a good idea to buy tickets at least a day or two in advance. Never buy a long-haul bus ticket from a tout walking around in a station recruiting customers... They will probably NOT steal your money and they might give you a good deal, but the likelihood is that they will book you on a slow, uncomfortable bus. Always insist that any bus you buy a ticket for have a toilet...this is very important for foreigners; don't worry about air-conditioning as almost all long-haul buses have it these days although there is no guarantee that it will work properly.

The following website includes some fairly helpful information about long-haul bus travel. It is written primarily for those going to North Thailand, but the basic information conveyed applies to the Northeast as well: http://www.thaizer.com/travel-in-thailand/vip-buses-in-thailand/

Entry by Rail: Thailand has a good railroad system although in recent years its quality has declined and delays are fairly common. Many if not most cities and major towns in the Northeast are connected to the rest of Thailand by rail. From Bangkok's Hualamphong Station, several trains originate daily to various Isaan locations and vice versa. All trains from Bangkok will pass through Korat. Some will then go north, stopping at the major towns of Khon Kaen, Udon Thani and Nong Khai, which is near the Laotian border. They stop at several smaller places, too. A second branch of the railroad heads east from Korat, stopping at the major towns of Buriram, Surin, and Sisaket before arriving at the end of the line: Ubon Ratchathani. As with the north-south line, these trains also stop at smaller places. There are four different categories of trains, and some are more comfortable, faster and make more or fewer stops than others. For example, it is supposed to take the Special Express train a little over four hours to make the trip between Bangkok and Korat, while a Rapid train should take approximately five-and-a-half hours, and an Express train approximately six-and-a-half hours...baring delays! There is a fourth class of train, the local or ordinary train, which is even slower and makes even more stops. These trains are very cheap but have no reserved seating; all seating is on a first come, first sit basis, which is usually okay for fairly short trips but rather unpleasant for longer journeys. Within each type or category, except the local, there are two or three different classes or grades of seating. Generally, most travelers find second class travel satisfactory. One should try not to ride third class as the seats are uncomfortable and the cars can be very crowded. The following website should be helpful: http://thairailways.com.

Entry from Laos or Cambodia: one may enter into the following Thailand towns from LAOS: Nong Khai, Mukdahan, Nakhon Phanom, and Chong Mek. Actually, the first three are the administrative centers, or amphoe mueang, of provinces bearing the same name, and Chong Mek is fairly near the major city of Ubon Ratchathani. At least relatively speaking, the provincial centers are nice places to find accommodation and relax after roaming around in the Laotian jungle. The entry process is essentially the same as it would be at any major point of entry into Thailand, such as the Bangkok or Phuket airports...It just might take longer. The doings on the Laotian side of the border are more difficult to ascertain, although it seems that most pass through uneventfully, if slowly. There is also said to be a border crossing in the province of Loei where foreign travelers may cross, although visitors must check in advance to make sure if it is truly international. There are two points of entry into Northeast Thailand from CAMBODIA: Chong Jom or Chong Chom in Surin Province, and Chong Sa Ngam in Sisaket Province. It is an understatement to say that these places lack the stature -- and the comforts and conveniences - of the points of entry from Laos. To make matters more problematic, many travelers have complained of what might be politely called irregularities on the Cambodian side of the border.

CAUTIONS: It should be noted that all Thai border control points are fully automated meaning that the control officers have access to the same data as those working at the Bangkok or Phuket airports. Travelers are reminded that no money should change hands when entering Thailand at a Thai entry point as those with visas will have already paid the appropriate fees at a Thai embassy or consulate, and entry stamps are free of charge. One should also try to keep track of Thai holidays and so forth as while border crossing points should always be open, the process will be even slower than it normally is. One needs to be aware of Laotian or Cambodian holidays, too, as it is possible that their border control points might actually close!

Note: Entry into Thailand: despite a plethora of changes in government policies and procedures concerning this issue since the military coup of May, 2014, the probabilities are extremely high that real, genuine travelers reading this can still enter into Thailand quite easily...assuming that they have enough money to get to Thailand! Citizens of most English speaking countries, such as Australia, Canada, Great Britain, New Zealand and the United States simply need valid passports to receive tourist visas at Thai embassies or consulates. These usually allow stays of sixty days. Those arriving at airports receiving international flights are usually given thirty day entry stamps. Generally, visas and entry stamps are given with a minimum of scrutiny, although in theory it is possible that officials could inquire about such issues as possession of sufficient funds. Rules about prolonging periods of stay, and leaving Thailand and then returning later can be complex and seem to be in constant change, so travelers who are considering these issues do need to stay abreast of the latest developments and might find it helpful to secure the assistance of a travel professional.

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The one natural feature those entering the Northeast via the Saraburi route in western Nakhon Ratchasima Province are most likely to remember is Lake Takhong. Technically a reservoir, it is sandwiched between the east-west railway on the north, and Route Two on the south, and seems to go on forever and ever... There are many such lakes in Isaan.

GEOGRAPHY

Northeast Thailand, or Isaan, is an extensive, elevated, largely flat table or stretch of land known as the "Korat Plateau." It covers an area approximately 160,000 square kilometers in size and is clearly differentiated both from the rest of Thailand and its international neighbors by distinctive geographical features: mountains and rivers. In the west and the southwest, it is separated from the rest of Thailand by various "mountain ranges," most notably the Petchabun range. In many places, these 'mountains' are essentially very large and often quite rugged hills, but in other places they extend to heights of between 1,000 and 1,700 meters above sea level. It is almost entirely separated from Laos in the north and east by the Mekong River, and in the south, it is separated from Cambodia by a range of mountains, the Dongreks. They lie primarily inside Cambodia, with many of their peaks rising to heights of between 600 and 700 meters above sea level. Along much of the Mekong in the east, and along the border with Cambodia, elevations within Thailand rise and then drop off abruptly, leaving massive cliffs facing its neighbors. It is definitely incorrect to think of these features as Himalaya-like, insurmountable barriers, but they, along with other factors, have contributed to the development of a culture in the Northeast that is different from that of the rest of Thailand.

The Westernmost mountains of Isaan actually do not extend very far from the west into the region itself. Only two of the provinces in the west, Chaiyaphum and Loei, can be described as largely or predominately mountainous, but these mountains also extend into two other provinces, Khon Kaen and Nakhon Ratchasima; and three other adjacent provinces have what could be described as elevated heights: Nong Khai, Udon Thani and Nong Bua Lamphu. Much of this area has been developed as national parks. There is one other area of significantly higher elevations in Isaan; it is in the northeastern part of the region, being centered in Sakon Nakhon and Kalasin provinces, and touching others, most notably Mukdahan. There, one finds the Phu Phan range of mountains or elevated places. These mountains are not particularly high, the highest peak, Phu Langka in Nakhon Phanom Province, rising to only 641 meters above sea level, but they are frequently rugged and have served to separate the Korat Plateau into two basic drainage basins. Much of the area where these mountains are located has also been developed as national parks. One finds numerous caves and waterfalls in these places, at least during the rainy season.

Two major rivers flow entirely within its boundaries, the Mun and the Chi. They both originate in the western mountains in or very, very close to Isaan and flow from west to east. The Mun River, approximately 640 kilometers in length, originates in Nakhon Ratchasima Province, very near its boundary with Prachinburi Province, and flows through the southern part of Isaan, eventually emptying into the Mekong in Ubon Ratchasima Province, the southeastern-most province in Isaan. The Chi River, approximately 765 kilometers in length, begins in Chaiyaphum Province and flows through central Isaan, eventually merging with the Mun River in the vicinity of the boundary between Sisaket and Ubon Ratchathani provinces. Neither of these rivers is very broad or very deep, at least until they approach the Mekong, but they are important sources of water for agriculture, and during the rainy seasons, their sizes increase two or three fold...or more. Of course, other smaller rivers or water sources, such as the Nam Pong and Pao rivers, flow into one or the other of these two rivers. In the northern part of Isaan, one finds smaller rivers, such as the Songkram and Loei, both of which flow into the Mekong.

One does not find many natural lakes of any appreciable size in Isaan; lakes such as 123 square kilometer Nong Han Lake, in Sakon Nakhon Province, and Bung Khong Long in Bueng Kan Province, are few and far between. Thus, for the purpose of assisting agriculture and controlling flooding, one will find several large man-made lakes or reservoirs as Thais correctly insist on calling them, the most notable being Sirindhorn in the southeast, Ubolratana in the west-central part of the region, and Lam Pao in the central part of the region. There are, however, many smaller man-made lakes or reservoirs dotted here and there across the landscape. Some of these offer area residents and travelers recreational opportunities.

It is interesting to observe that one will find some volcanoes in the area...These are described by those that are aware of them at all as being extinct, and, of course, one hopes that this description is accurate! One finds them primarily in the southern part of the region, particularly in Buriram Province. Perhaps, this tells us something about Isaan's geological history.

Note: a few geographical terms one will see frequently in Further Along in Isaan may be roughly translated as follows: phu: mountain, khao: mountain, nam: water, namtok: waterfall, hat: beach, hin: rock or rocky, tham: cave, taem: cliff.

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WEATHER

Northeastern Thailand, like most of Thailand, has three distinct seasons, and they are NOT necessarily hot, hotter and hottest although for many it might seem that way! It has a hot, dry "summer" season; a hot, rainy season; and a mild, relatively cool or less hot "winter" season. These seasons, however, are more pronounced or extreme in Northeast Thailand than they are in other sections of the country.

'Summer' occurs between February and May. There is very little precipitation during this period as the region is landlocked and therefore not influenced by the seasonal monsoon. Thus, it gets quite hot, with daytime temperatures frequently climbing to over forty degrees Celsius or 104 degrees Fahrenheit...and it can feel even hotter than that if such a thing is possible!! This is hotter than it gets in most other places in Thailand during this period and can be dangerous for those unaccustomed to the heat. Those out and about at this time should always wear appropriate clothing and carry hats. Thais, at least females, frequently carry and use umbrellas. During evenings, if there is a breeze, temperatures can moderate to a more balmy and bearable range. While high temperatures can be a problem for many and do need to be considered in one's planning, one should not overestimate their fierceness. They are not hotter than the temperatures of regions such as the southern United States or southern Europe. Most will manage fine as long as they do not exert themselves too much in the searing rays of the midday sun.

Rainy season occurs between May and October; August and September are the rainiest months with over eighty percent of the annual rainfall occurring during this interval. It does not generally rain every day or for extremely lengthy periods, but storms often come suddenly and with extreme power. More than one storm may strike an area during a twenty-four hour period. Sometimes, they last for a few hours at a time and flooding is a frequent result. Generally, waters have receded fairly quickly, but in recent years, the floods have been getting worse, with the waters taking longer and longer to recede - sometimes weeks -- and doing more and more damage. It seems that rainy season in Isaan is definitely getting rainier. Even if there are no accumulations at all, the force of the rains often makes operating motor vehicles