The Cheapsakes's Guide to Good Wine

By Xlibris US

A Cheapsakes Guide To Good Wine introduces the reader to the
wonderful world of quality wines while remaining aware that the
vast majority of people do not have large amounts of cash available
to expend on wine purchases. It examines a wide variety of wine types and rates over
five hundred different selections worthy of your table with none costing more
than $25 and most available at much less.

The book also introduces you to many aspects of the world of wine and
provides hundreds of leads to beginning your own tasting experiences.

Many people believe that a wine has to be expensive to be memorable.
This book happily proves this is an error.

• Language: English
• Publisher: Xlibris US
• Release date: Dec 12, 2014
• ISBN: 9781499081046

Book preview

The Cheapskate’s Guide to Good Wine

RANDALL FERRARA

Copyright © 2014 by Randall Ferrara.

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright owner.

Any people depicted in stock imagery provided by Thinkstock are models, and such images are being used for illustrative purposes only.

Certain stock imagery © Thinkstock.

Rev. date: 12/08/2014

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Contents

FOREWORD

INTRODUCTION

THE WINE LAKE

WHO’S STIRRING THE POT?

The Different Kinds of Wine Making Operations

WHAT IS INEXPENSIVE WINE?

WHAT’S WITH THE VINTAGE?

WOOD YOU BELIEVE!

Oak Barrels, Shapely Bottles and Wine Making

STOPPED IN THE NAME OF TIME

A NUMBERS RACKET?

THE CHEAPSKATE’S GUIDE

The Wine Shopping List

CABERNET SAUVIGNON

MERLOT

PINOT NOIR

SANGIOVESE AND CHIANTI AND TUSCANY WINES

MALBEC

ZINFANDEL

SYRAH AND SHIRAZ

RHONE BLENDS

BORDEAUX REDS

TEMPRANILLO, MONASTRELL, MOURVEDRE AND RIOJA REDS

RED BLENDS

MISCELLANEOUS REDS

CHARDONNAY

SAUVIGNON BLANC

CHENIN BLANC

PINOT GRIGIO AND PINOT GRIS

RIESLING

VIOGNIER

MISCELLANEOUS WHITES AND WHITE BLENDS

ROSÉ

SPARKLING WINES AND CHAMPAGNES

IS IT WINE OR IS IT OLIVE OIL?

VARIETIES OF WINE GRAPES

WHERE DO I PUT MY QUARTERS?

Enomatic Machines, a New Experience in Wine Tasting

ON THE ROAD TO PARADISE!

United States Wineries to Visit

A LAST GLASS

By making this wine vine known to the public, I have rendered my country as great a service as if I had enabled it to pay back the national debt.

-Thomas Jefferson

Statesman, Governor, Secretary of State, President of the United States, and a Wine Maker

"I am cursed with a desire for foreign shores,

I long to sail forbidden seas."

Ishmael, speaking in

Moby Dick, by Herman Melville

FOREWORD

T his book is born out of frustration and, maybe, just a touch of envy. We, the people who have tasted the wines selected for this work, have loved wine for a very long time and have seen the whole of the wine world dedicated to a level of humanity that few of us will ever be able to reach. We speak of the wine world that is fueled by huge sums of money, expended for the pleasure of a single bottle that the lowly of the world will never obtain or experi ence.

In September of 2011, a group of people began a movement called Occupy Wall Street. To be perfectly frank, we never quite got what the purpose of the protests were, but rising out of it came a number that identified the part of the world that we address in this book, the Ninety-Nine percent. This is the group that this work is dedicated to and seeks to aid. It is the group of people who work nine to five jobs and attain, to some small degree, a level of personal economic status that allows them to gather a few bucks together and buy a bottle of wine to enjoy with their partner (or less fun, alone). These people, the ninety-nine per centers, are never going to buy and sell their way through the world. These are the people who work and save. These are the people who look at someone paying a huge amount for a bottle of wine as either insane, or somehow flawed in their world view. These are the people who face monthly mortgage payments and save for their children’s education.

The people this book is dedicated to also are those who want to experience some of the real joys of life, like a great meal or a fine glass of wine. We think that these people, people like us, should have that opportunity. It is our hope that this book will provide them with help in reaching one of their goals.

Randall P. Ferrara

Francestown, New Hampshire

August 18, 2014

CONNOISSEUR, n. A specialist who knows everything about something

and nothing about anything else. An old wine-bibber having been smashed in a railway collision, some wine was poured on his lips to revive him.

Pauillac, 1873, he murmured and died.

Ambrose Bierce (1842-1914), The Devil’s Dictionary, 1911

DEDICATION

First and foremost, I dedicate this guide to my life partner and wife, Shirlee, who has

tirelessly accompanied me to a great many wine rooms, wine stores, enomatic wine shops,

bars, restaurants, and many, many foreign lands in search of just the right glass of wine.

Next, I would like to also dedicate this to my three children Mark, Matt,

and Karen, who have sampled and traveled with us in our search.

To them, I add all those others who have helped us with the tastings, most notably Rachel Brown, and our dear, departed, traveling partner and bon vivant, George Westcott.

To all our drinking buddies, thank you and bottoms up!

Pour out the wine without restraint or stay,

Pour not by cups, but by the bellyful,

Pour out to all that wall.

Edmund Spenser (1552-1599)

Epithalamion, 250

INTRODUCTION

O ur first experience with sticker shock in the wine world occurred when we were young and just married, looking for a fine wine for a romantic dinner as a new couple. As we searched the shelves in the liquor store, we spotted a small glassed in area, set apart from the myriad of bottles that surrounded it. Now, admittedly, we weren’t making the best of salaries at the time, but we were astonished that several of the wines displayed in that glass case cost more than we made in a week. One of them totaled in at more than we received in a m onth!

We immediately knew that this kind of wine would never be a part of our romantic meal, or any other meal or occasion for the rest of our lives. And here is the surprising part of this, we weren’t upset by that at all. To us, the idea of spending in the hundreds for a single bottle of wine was at best foolish and at worst profane.

As time and experience came along as they naturally do, we were able to do more and learn more. We realized that if we ever became rich we would spend whatever we wanted on whatever bottle of wine we cared to experience. We also learned that the likelihood of that happening was slim to none. What did happen was that we were able to see more and do more traveling. We became exposed to really great wine on one of our earliest trips to France and it became apparent that we could tell the difference between a great bottle of wine and a poor one.

It wasn’t as hard as wine snobs would like you to believe. Your taste buds are surprisingly intelligent. And once you have the whole wine process down and know a little of what to expect, you become adept at avoiding rot gut bottles.

In our wine cellar, we have a sign we bought at one winery or another that we believe is in total error, so we have taken a permanent marker and crossed out one word and replaced it as follows:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT TO

DRINK CHEAP WINE!

BAD

The world of wine opens up so many doors for a person that we have refused to over spend on any bottle. We want a nice drink to share, to enjoy, and to accompany great meals. We want to do that with friends and family and in all kinds of places all around the world. We cannot do that if a case of wine can cost as much as several thousand dollars. (Yes, that is correct! A California Opus One can sell for as much as $105 for a 2006 vintage.) We could afford to buy a bottle of Opus One every once in a while but we are afraid that if we paid over twelve hundred dollars for a case of wine, we would be reluctant to drink any of it. And, in fact, that is actually what happens to the most expensive wines; they are bought for purely investment reasons.

You must like wine or why would you be interested in this work. You would not be reading this book if: 1. You could afford the highest priced wines; 2. You wanted to just look at your wine collection and never drink it.

There are several other reasons why most of us will never become big time, big ticket wine purchasers. Consider first the rating of wine. Vintages are rated by experts on a 100 point scale. These ratings can differ from expert to expert, publication to publication, but not by much. Expert wine tasters have fully developed palates and a great wine is a great wine to all of them. Wines rated 79-84 are considered adequate but not exceptional. Wines 85-89 are said to be good quality wines; 90-95 rated wines are exceptional. Wines rated 96-100 are outstanding bottles and their prices reflect this. Anything under a 79 is considered poor.

Most of us can tell the difference in quality between, for example, a 78 and an 88. But, opportunity and natural talent of palate suggests that most cannot tell the difference between a 92 and a 94. When we have had opportunities to sample a 95-97 rated wine we knew immediately that this was a special experience. Yet, days later we experienced a wonderful vintage that was rated a 90 and cost an incredible $12.95. We know, by knowledge and inference, that the first, higher rated wine was a better taste. But, the second, extremely affordable wine was a pleasurable experience in itself. We would have been proud to serve such a wine to all our friends (if we hadn’t downed the whole bottle ourselves). Thus, we have concluded that most of us have no need, no experience, and no pocketbook for the likes of a Far Niente Cabernet Sauvignon. This is a wonderful wine at approximately $100 bottle, and drinking it is an experience. We all would love it if we could always afford such a wine. However, that $12.95 wine was so good that it impressed many of our wine drinking friends when we exposed them to a glass poured from a decanter. They all thought the wine cost in excess of $35 and would have been happy to spend that for a bottle. They were overjoyed when we told them that this vintage had cost only one third of what they expected.

There are two more reasons to discuss. Let’s suppose you are ready to throw this book aside and spend the inheritance you got from your Aunt Sophie on twelve of the best wines in the world. Good luck. One of the reasons that these wines get to be so good is that the grapes that go into them are carefully selected and huge amounts of grapes are rejected, to spend their essence on lower cost wine. The best grapes are grown, pressed, barreled, blended, and aged with phenomenal attention to detail. The result is superb wine but not a great deal of it. Some of the highest rated wines that are highly regarded in the wine magazines (Like Wine Spectator and Wine Advocate, both of which are great reads) are reported as having been made in quantities as small as 100 cases or less. Now, since you have now decided to spend Aunt Sophie’s money, you have your heart set on that wine you read about that made your mouth water just thinking about a slowly savored glass. Go ahead, try to find it. Run right down there to the local package store, or to your higher level wine shop, and find that bottle. Good luck!

Remember, those 1200 to 3600 bottles of the best wine, made in Bordeaux, France, for example, have to satisfy the longings of the entire world of wine enthusiasts, plus supply the wine cellars of the great restaurants of the world, and also supply the collections of those who invest in great wines for the value they accrue (which can be quite a spectacular investment). From time to time you will succeed in getting that bottle you want, but not very often at all. On the other hand, that wine you read about that was rated a 91 and of which 15,000 cases were produced will almost surely grace your table and your palate in due time.

The other factor to consider is this: The old saying, You can’t have your cake and eat it, too, can be untrue for wine. You can purchase a case of Columbia Crest Grand Estates Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 for less that $150 and still have enough money left over under your mattress to send your kid to college, support the charity of your choice, give a donation to the candidate you support, and still have the great experience of a wonderful wine without the guilt! And you will have money left to purchase a nice Spanish Monastrell or an Argentine Malbec.

If you are still dreaming of that 99-100 rated bottle of St. Emilion Grand Cru there are two other considerations besides money. It is hard to say this, since one can only experience what is in their own realm of life, but there is profound doubt on our part whether or not most of us will ever be able to detect that range of flavors and hints of overtones that the true wine expert can. Read some of the descriptions of wine that are written in reviews. Here is a made up one, but it is really close to the truth:

This Pomerol blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon has great finish. The wine exhibits hints of earth and limestone, with notes of apricot, cherries and a hint of red licorice.

Tasting the same wine, most of us would not recognize the earth and limestone tones, and if we did, we would not be able to name them. We don’t know about you, but we have not tasted red licorice since we were ten years old, and remember nothing of its taste.

Some of us have such great ability to taste and examine by both the taste buds and the olfactory senses, all these numerous hints of flavor. But most of us can identify only a fraction of what the great sommeliers of the world can. So, while your five hundred dollar bottle is not going to be a waste, it will be an unnecessary expenditure. You almost certainly cannot taste the whole range of flavors, unless you are blessed with those exceptional tasting senses, and if you have them, you probably would not be reading this book. You would be working at a great restaurant somewhere, making a good living as a sommelier.

So, tuck those twenties into your wallet and head out for the wine store. Leave the hundred dollar bills back at the ranch, and begin your adventure of experiencing the greatness of wine without the back-breaking cost. You will thank yourself for it, and so will your heirs.

"There is not the hundredth part of the wine consumed in this kingdom

that there ought to be. Our foggy climate wants help."

Jane Austen

Northanger Abbey

THE WINE LAKE

S ome of us who see the words wine lake might fantasize about a liquid pool of our favorite beverage, nestled between the rolling green hills, with a wine of beautiful color and taste, all at our disposal by simply dipping our wine glass into this lake. Nice image, isn’t it? It would be especially nice if Wine Lake was located right next to Cheese Moun tain!

But, the wine lake we speak of isn’t imaginary. It’s real, and it is happening all around us. At the end of the movie Bottle Shock, which relates the story of the first time a California wine beat out the giants of France at a taste test in France itself, the main character (played masterfully by Alan Rickman,) says: Do you realize that in the future we will be drinking wine, good wine, from places like Australia, South America, or even Africa? It was an accurate, if theatrical prediction. It happened, as anyone who has had the pleasure of drinking a KMV Steen from South Africa can attest to with joy. We have so many choices today that it is quite thrilling to be a wine lover.

But, to the wine grower, it has not been such a happy thing. Coupled with improvements in vine stock, agricultural advancements, and new wine processing techniques, the amount of wine available to the public has risen dramatically. In fact, in some countries such as France, steps have been taken to limit production, and as a result, increase quality.

In the United States, the same phenomenon has occurred with some additional contributing factors. Not many decades ago, wine production in the United States was mostly limited to California and New York, with the Golden State wines being predominant. Wines from other states were a rarity. Today, that picture has changed dramatically. There are wineries producing bottles in every single state of the union, and some of those states have risen in wine making reputation to the point where their vintages rival those of California. One needs to think of the great wines produced in Washington, Oregon, or New York to know the truth of this new day.

California has certainly kept pace. On our first winery tour, many years ago, we headed quite naturally to Napa and Sonoma. These were the places to go; they had the wineries to visit. But now, that has changed. More places to visit have been added. Our last two California winery tours took place in the Santa Barbara area, and in Paso Robles. Both are producing wines of great quality. These areas, and many others in California (see later sections of the book) have contributed to the fact that quality grapes are being produced by growers in such quantities that they sometimes are not being bought by vintners, or have simply outstripped the capacity for production of a small scale vineyard, then do it all: the growing, pressing, vinting, barreling, aging, and bottling. Thus, the wine lake grows. Better and better grapes are being used for wines that are sold at more and more reasonable prices. This is a very good thing for a cheapskate wine drinker indeed. But, as in all things, it has its drawbacks and difficulties. There is, as the saying goes, no free lunch. Many small wineries fail every year. Growers disappear from the wine landscape, and the wine drinking public will eventually feel the effects of this sad result of the wine glut.

At the beginning of the modern period of wine production, when good wine meant French wine to most people, something absolutely terrible happened. A mite, a tiny little insect call Pylloxia invaded France. Slowly at first, and then with increasing speed, this tiny bug attacked the grape vines of Burgundy, Bordeaux, and then the whole of France. There was no way to stop it. Once a vine was infected with this curse it would shrivel and die.

Then, something surprising occurred that saved the day. It was discovered that American vines were not affected by this blight. Root stock, taken from American grown wine varieties and grafted with French vines produced plants that were not affected by the disease. So, as hard as it is for the French to admit it, American root stock saved the French wine industry.

But that does not mean that French wine tastes the same as wine grown in the United States. There is no way of knowing now what the grafting did to French wine. Is it different now than it was then? Has this Americanization brought about the decline of French wine? The answer to that is a resounding no! French wine is still among those vintages by which worldwide wine is judged. But, in a small way, the whole event did have an effect on world wine production. It was found that vineyards that planted their individual vines at greater density were less subject to Pylloxia. As a result, density of wine planting in France is higher than in most other wine producing areas. More vines equal more grapes, which equals more wine.

The Wine Lake has grown to such an extent that the cheapest available wines are much better than they ever, in memory, were. It has even resulted in Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Chardonnay, and other grapes being available to eat as table fruit. Go to a farmer’s market in California and you will find many wine variety grapes available as fruit purchases.

All of us that worked on this guide love this development. It gets you closer to the original fruit, makes it more familiar, so that the resultant wine you buy is better understood.

As more and more areas enter the international wine market the level of the Wine Lake will continue to rise. Hungary, Israel, Canada, Georgia, and Greece, to name just five, are producing quality wines that you will find in increasing numbers in the days to come.

The rising level of the Wine Lake is another reason to be a Cheapskate in wine purchases. Being frugal allows you to buy in greater variety, and that leads to a greater understanding and an education of your wine appreciation. Right now, before going on to the next section of this book, we are going to take a break and enjoy a nice glass of Virginia Unoaked Chardonnay. Why don’t you try dipping your taste buds in the wonderful Wine Lake?

"The Irish believe that fairies are extremely fond of good wine.

The proof of the assertion is that in the olden days royalty would leave

a keg of wine out for them at night.

Sure enough, it was always gone in the morning."

Irish Folklore

WHO’S STIRRING THE POT?

The Different Kinds of Wine Making Operations

I t is necessary to begin this portion of our discussions by giving a warning. Do not think that the quality of a wine depends only on how it is produced. There are many fine wines being marketed that begin life in many different fashions. The end result is, for us, the only ques tion.

That said, there are many ways to gather together the ingredients to make a bottle of wine. The first and most natural way is the manner used by millions of backyard winemakers, which included our grandparents. Their simple efforts are the basis of the actions of so many of the great wineries of today. These winemakers prepare the land, grow the grapes, harvest the fruit, sort the grapes, press and ferment the juice, carefully age the resultant wine in many different ways, and then bottle the result.

It can be argued by many that these wines, sometimes labeled as Estate grown, vinted, and bottled, have a greater chance of consistency and quality. It is the winery’s name that is on the bottle and it is the reputation of their vineyards, their winemaker, and ultimately, their wine, that is at stake. Wines produced in such a manner are often the most difficult to find since they are only occasionally produced in blockbuster quantities. But, that again is not always true. We have stood in an estate winery tasting room that had this magnificent glass wall separating the tasters from the racks upon racks of oak casks of aging wine. The casks were large, and there were many of them.