Palau: a Cultural Geography

By Robert Evans

Palau is the furthest western island group of the Pacific Islands. The Philippines are to its west about 500 nautical miles away. To the south is the western end of New Guinea.

Although these island peoples all have their roots in Southeast Asia, they have lost ties to their ancient homeland. Each has their own set of customs and beliefs and cannot be lumped together.

In this cultural geography, youll learn all you ever wanted to know about the Palau Islands, beginning with their discovery in the fifteenth century, to their American takeover in the 1950s, and life there today. The author covers the history, economy, education, government, language, health, religion, and overall environment of the islands.

Youll also learn about Palaus complex aboriginal culture and how for thousands of years, it has had a well-established matrilineal society. Village organization ideally consists of ten totemic clans graphically oriented in a system.

Explore the majestic beauty and rich history of the Palau Islands with this detailed cultural geography that will make you feel as though youre there in person.

• Language: English
• Publisher: iUniverse
• Release date: Sep 23, 2016
• ISBN: 9781532001666

Book preview

PALAU:

A

CULTURAL

GEOGRAPHY

ROBERT EVANS

42332.png

PALAU: A CULTURAL GEOGRAPHY

Copyright © 2016 Robert Evans.

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be used or reproduced by any means, graphic, electronic, or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, taping or by any information storage retrieval system without the written permission of the author except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical articles and reviews.

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ISBN: 978-1-5320-0167-3 (sc)

ISBN: 978-1-5320-0166-6 (e)

Library of Congress Control Number: 2016910932

iUniverse rev. date: 09/23/2016

CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION

CULTURE

CULTURAL COMPARISON

PRE-HISTORY

GEOMOPHOLOGY

ANTHROPOLOGY

DEMOGRAHY

MATERIAL CULTURE

INTELLECTUAL CULTURE

TRADE & INDUSTRY

CULTURE

THE DEVELOPMENT OF THE POLITICAL SYSTEM IN PALAU

SOCIAL LIFE

HEALTH, MEDICINE AND SEXUAL EXPRESSIONS

ELID WORSHIP

SPANISH ERA

GERMAN ERA

JAPANESE ERA

AMERICAN ERA

Study the past if you would divine the future

Confucius

INTRODUCTION

THE THRUST OF THIS BOOK is to examine forces, cultural, economic, political and And social in a closed geographical area, impressed on the Palauans by foreign occupation.

The approach which I call HGPA is making liberal use of pertain data extracted from many disciplines. In the Pacific there are many swirling currents producing every changing conditions. Therefore every major area must be examined individually. In the past the attempt to consider the Pacific as cohesive, interrelated mass with one form fits all, is not applicable.

Although the roots of all the people lay in Southeast Asia, over time they have lost any ties to that ancient homeland and now all major areas and peoples are separate entity’s and must be treated as such. The American occupation which led to independence was a rough and tortuous road; a viable state will take shape.

Using a lineal system for easier reading, my daughter Pamela gives me continuous and valuable support, in typing and help in research and editing. I could not have done this book without her.

CULTURE

`THE PALAUANS COMPRISE A COMPOSITE of physical types which indicate a long history of radical mixture. Palau geographical position has placed it on the threshold of the Pacific and numerous lanes of migration passed through the area into Oceanic. Today one can observe radical types and blends including Polynesian, Malayan with strong Mongoloid strain and Melanesian. In recent years, there has been considerable mongoloid admixture, through the Japanese and Caucasian admixture through the Americans.

Palau aboriginal culture was more complex than that on the small Coral Atolls. For thousands of years Palauans have had a well-established matrilineal society, such is believed to have descended from Javanese precedents.

Village organization consisted ideally of ten totemic clans graphically oriented in a system, which persists today and is organized as elsewhere in Micronesia, matrilineal through the mother line.

A council of 10 male Chiefs ruled villages and a parallel Advisory Staff of 10 titled female elders, each representing one of the ranking clans of the community. The Chiefs council, directed matters concerning the village, the planning off economic activities, warfare and the apprehension and punishment, usually by money fines of law breakers.

Te women organization, was a female voice in the community, concerned with the maintenance of inter-community peace and with matters of linage, for example, the inheritance of titled positions both mal and female.

Bothe women and men were grouped in age-graded societies for social and economic purposes.

Every man’s society had had and many still maintain a Bai or clubhouse.

Traditional land, money, and titles passed through the female line.

The origin of Palauan money is unknown; there is a member of legends as to the origin of Palauan money (Udoud). Attempted to counterfeit the money has failed. In the past, only high-ranking women wore Palauan money necklaces.

The first was every hard stone, yellow or Red, the second was an artificial perilous stone very similar to beads. The third was a glass ball. The fourth was pieces of ceramic bracelets. The yellow stone is called Barak, it was named because its color, resemble the color of taro. There are different qualities and sizes of this stone money determine the value of it.

A large pure Barak, was the most valuable of Palau treasures, the ransom of a village, when a village was threatened with destruction and pillage by the victor’ in battle. I was the most proudly cherished and zealously guarded treasure f the village, symbolical of its political independence. It was kept in careful custody of the Great Chieftain. It was therefore never circulated and cannot be considered as currency.

Mungugan, is a red stone and is of several varieties. The best variety of Mongongau is almost as valuable as a large pure Barak and has an equally high political significance. They are hard opaque stones, fine and smooth to touch.

Bead money: some pieces of bead money have figures inscribed on them, while some are plain. Kalebukub—is bead money of twentieth five units.

Toluk made from Hawk bill Turtle shell, is used only by women for exchange of services. Palauan money is still eing used. Ownership of this money is generally owned by clan or lineage and rarely by individuals. Possession of certain pieces signifies prestige and wealth.

The value of pieces of money is the sequence of exchanged by people that give it and people that receive it.

There is a system know as Hongiakl, shows that debts carry interest, as such deserves our special attention. Hongiakl is paid in advance, when he is unable to repay the creditor with the same king of money he borrowed.

In the exchanged of money between a piece of high denomination and several pieces of lower denominations, the aggregate value of the latter must considerably be in excess of the face value of the former.

In exchange for a Kluk, which has a value of 50 dollars, are offered a Matal a Kluk which has a value of 40 dollars, an adolobok which corresponds to 30 dollars, a Hongikl which is of the value of 20 dollars, and Mor a Kaymon ku Kaft worth 10 dollars, the total being 100 dollars or twice the value of the piece taken in exchanged, for a Kalebukubwhich has a face value of 250 dollars, a smaller pieces of money mounting to 350 dollars are paid in exchange.

When a village obtains a highly valuable piece of money, the first Chieftain takes it for himself and gives an equal value of the next lower grade of money to the Chieftain below him who in turn passes the money down the line.

The women in Palau, by laboring in the fields and producing food items allow men to undertake harder and more intelligent task, enhanced the growth of culture, placing them in alegel far agofe others . The women who engage in food production, their social status is much higher than all the others are.

Women and money are closely connected. Their husbands are obligated at certain social customs, such as marriage, house building to provide money to the wife families. Men are the producer of money, which is turned over to their wife or other women to dispense as they see fit.

Before being exposed to foreign rule. The people knew their position in society and their was food for all. The life expectancy for the natives was around forty years

The village organization we see today evolved in the 14th and 15th centuries. By the 16th century, the social system we see reflected in modern villages was largely in place and involved into states as we see it today

Palauans regard themselves more sophisticated than others of Micronesia; their ingenuity in reworking social arrangements to incorporate the new into the old in a satisfactory and workable manner is above average.

The Palauans did not suffer from a plantation syndrome, a mixed population nor was subjected to new military oversight on development. They made use of their desire for education to forage ahead in the development of a modern society.

CULTURAL COMPARISON

PALAU IS A PERIPHERAL TERRITORY; It is the furthest western island group of the Pacific Islands, also the westernmost of the Carolines, thus of Micronesia; to the west of Palau lies the great archipelago of the Philippines, about 500 nautical miles=900km away, and exactly to the south is the western end of New Guinea, so that Palau is situated at the apex of a right-angled isosceles triangle, the feet of which are standing in Indonesia and Melanesia. Therefore traces of both must be present and influence should be detectable.

Another neighbor needs to be mentioned, in northwest is China, but in three times greater distance.

It is probably most proper first to enumerate some of the foreign influences in Palau–namely such cultural components which are known from the other regions—and then to evaluate these. It must be said in advance that under Melanesia also the Papuan element is included, as far as it is relevant.

1. The name Palau is pronounced on most islands of the Carolines-Babi or Banli, the latter means the underworld on the New Hebrides, just as there is the castaway god . Katt has similarities with Medeg eipeelau, the Olifaat of the Carolines. On Simalur, west of Sumatra, land is called bano

2. The strict divisions of the men’s associations into 10 classes is reminiscent of the New Hebrides; men’s associations and club houses are generally reminiscent of Melanesia. Also women’s associations are present on Palau as on New Guinea.

3. The totemistic two-class division of Melanesia is clearly found on Palau, likewise the totem animals are present and records of descent from these fishes. Also individual totemism occurs, further the clans are not lacking nor are relations. The dualism in Indonesia, such as Patlma and Patsiwas on Ceram, is also likely to go back to Melanesian influence.

4. Anthropologically the inhabitant of the southern part of the archipelago, towards New Guinea, are darker than in the north, also short wavy and frizzy hair can be observed more in the south than in the north.

5. Betel chewing is practiced in Melanesia and Indonesia (and India), but not eastwards of Palau in the South Sea region, Palau and Yap from the eastern boundary.

6. The system of courtesans known from Japan, from the Khlkha-Mongols. Also China, Burma and both Indias have related traits. In particular the strong matriarchic Naga tribes in Assam appear to have a Mongol system in addition to Klub dichotomy.

7. The language belongs to the large Malay-Pacific group o languages. Polynesian and some Malayan words, which add the otherwise disappeared final vowel in the possessive suffix. Finckh describes the Palauan language as Indonesian. It is un- Melanesian in that only one language is spoken in the entire archipelago.

Note: following cultural comparison there will be 11 pages pictures insert.

PRE-HISTORY

The Pleistocene Epoch

1.8 million To 12,000 years ago the last Ice Age.

THE SEAS WERE 360 TO 400 feet lower than today.

South East Asia was home to Homo erectus at the beginning of the Pleistocene. The Movement out of Africa began about 100,000 BC. This movement took the southern or oceanic route, along the Indian coast, the Andaman Islands, below Borneo; between 900,000 and 800,000 BC, crossed the Lombok Strait went on to settle on Flores Island nearly 800,000 years ago.

In 1967, stone tools and dietary remains were found on Flores Island were the remains of what appeared to be small humans’ nameo Homo Floresiensis hobbits fossil hominines between 90,000 to 18,000 years old. A Hominine species had not survived evolution. On the north coast of Australia finding indicate a possible hominine occupation as early as 70,000 years, stone artifacts found, were dated at over 100,000 years old. All living humans living in this region are descendant of homo supine who came out of Africa, as some scattered groups in south East Asia and the Philippines. The earliest migrating of Homo sapiens had interbred in south East Asia with other hominines before continuing East and South.

Taro had originally come from Southeast Asia. Certain species of bananas and sugarcanes was cultivated at this early date. Approximately 4500 BC, domestic animals (pigs, dogs, fowl) appear for the first time in the cultural assemblage. The cumulative weight off evidence suggests that many if not all of the above development were the result of contact with more culturally sophisticated intruders arriving from Southeast Asia. With the arrival of Austronesian speaking, there were southeast Asians around 4500 BC. The people were southern Mongoloid stock-ultimately hailing from southern China-made the pacific island their tenure. They are still there today. Micronesians owe most of their genetic and cultural makeup to Austronesian (southern mongoloid) ancestors. Austronesian were the first islanders of remote oceanic.

45,000 BC

Austronesian brought with them to the northern coastline of New Guinea, their food plants, domesticated animals, polished stone tools, agricultural and sea-voyaging skills, and culture of Southeast Asia. Austronesian were expert seafarers, capable of both deep sea fishing and extensive voyaging for trade and exploration. They were earth’s premier mariners.

18,000 BC

Some 18,000 BC years ago, once rising seas had attained maximum heights, and global mean temperature had effected. A major change a distinct cultural complex created a diverse southern Mongoloid population which settles along China’s southern coast.

16,000 BC

Around 16,000 BC, members of this complex left the Asian mainland to settle in Taiwan. Descendant of Austronesian sparkers sail south to decolonize the Philippines.

15,000 BC

Early human presence in the remote ocean regions came from New Guinea about 15,000 years ago. The kaironk valley of northern New Guinea became the home to hunter gaiters. The rising sea levels and mean temperatures enabled crop cultivation in the area. THere is evidence of the earliest ditch and drainage system. Taro was cultivated in kook’s hollows and drain ditches, from 9000 to 5500 years ago and it is still popular today.

14,000 BC

Austronesian colonized northern plains of the New Britain New Ireland and the Bismarck. The Austronesian language includes nearly all the language of the Philippines, Indonesia, and Polynesia. The language is spoken today by approximately 386 million people. The colonization of remote Oceania was an Austronesian initiative. The Austronesian had been sailing the vast expanses of the ocean since the settling of Taiwan some 2000 years earlier. They invented the outrigger canoe, double boom triangular sails, complex open ocean navigational techniques, invented the double hulled canoe, which allowed grater loads to be carried. The Settlers of remote Oceania had to be strongly hierarchical in their structure only a strong hierarchy of command ensured survival in settlement events, maintaining social order while safeguarding food production. Initial settlement of unoccupied island, would have been small. One or two canoes, approximately 70 people, equal gender ratio of young adults.

The colonization of remote Oceania caused the extinction of many species of fauna and flora. The large scale clearing caused irreversible environmental degradation. One land became unusable; practice such as terracing had to be introduced to safe guard crop production, particularly on the high island of remote oceanic.

12,000 BC

The expanding pacific islanders and their hybrid progeny were moving south from the Philippines into the Sunda Islands via Halmahera and the easterly islands. All Micronesian, though extremely diverse, is all originated in the Austronesian island of Southeast Asia. Southern Micronesian display varying degrees of Melanesians admixes.

4500 BC

The wave of humans occupied northern part of Palau about 4500 BC, were Austronesia’s who came from the southeast island. We refer to them as pygmy people as they were between 3 to 4 feet tall. They came to the Philippines approximately 45,000 BC. They were a terracing type of people from the north center part of Southeast Asia. They are now known as Negrito people.

The terraces seen on the small mountains in Palau reflect the northern mountains of the Philippines. (Osborn 1966-1979). The terraced hillsides, served a dual function for both agriculture and defense. They were there 1500 to 700 years ago. It has become increasing clear (Ito 1998) that the terracing and summit modification have transformed large areas of the northern islands into sculpted landscapes, and indicative considerable effort employed in modifying the island environment.

(Gumeman 1986) proposed that the terraces indicate a dense population that was reaching the limits of it carrying capacity. The monumental scale of construction certainly indicated that a substantial labor force was available in this period. The rings ditches slow down erosion, and collect rain water in the rings, in which taro and other water growing plants can be grown. The cap was a small reservoir from which water could be directed where needed.

The terrace builders did not live on the mountains, but on the flat sea side areas. It is not known for sure what caused the people to leave, but along came a super typhoon that can create high waves that would destroy lives, property, saltwater inundation of the interior taro patches, create swamps and destroy breadfruit, pandanus, banana and other crops, that would have long term effects on the remaining people. Typhoons and huge tropical storms are frequent and severe in the western Carolinas.

William Howells (1973), a physical anthropologist, said that the settlement of Micronesia suggest a northern route in a complex four-phases sequence based primary on his interpretation of available data hypothesizes that Austronesian-specking migrants entered Micronesia about 4000 BC from the Philippines-Indonesia area, they established permanent settlement on the richer more inhabitable volcanic islands about 2000BC.

During this phase the central high islands of Micronesia, Truk, Ponape and Kosrae were populated to capacity, precipitating movement on to other islands. There are stories that have been handed down, that a group had visited Palau from the forked hills, Ponape. The light colored people landed on Babeldaob and with their passed knowledge they passed one many arts and crafts that you see today. The northern people from the Philippine-Indonesian area, landed on the volcanic islands, where flat land and hilly countryside, with springs, and swamps for taro patches to be had. The first place they settled was on the high areas, Melekeok, Mangallang, Imeungs and Ngardmau, are still today situated on the high ground.

3300 BC

A group following the same route, appeared to progress far into the Marianas. The western highlands of Saipan and Guam, show a distinctive pottery from this period known as Mariana Red, a plain red slipped ware whose less common decorated type resembles ancients Philippine pottery, this would also have arrived through Halmahera and Palau.

The present of rice and the loom indicate that all Micronesians western high islands were settled from Southeast Asia islands. During this period Palau and yap developed independently. Yap not having good wood to make seafaring canoes was not able to wander far from yap. Both yap and Palau retained certain cultural aspects from Indonesians.

2700 BC - 1500 BC

The expanding pacific islanders and their hybrid progeny-both near and remote Oceania were harvesting taro, yam sugarcane, breadfruit, coconuts, kava, pigs, dogs, chickens and seafood. To all islanders, including Hawaii it plants was a special plants with supernatural associations used for healing, garments, wrapping food, for invoking or warding off magic and sorcery. During this period Palau possessed no written history only oral traditions, mixed legends, myth and tribal agenda.

1500 BC - 500 BC

The colonization of archaic pacific islands did not occur by wanders, but by seafarers, maining traders with the islanders. Austronesia’s had been populating the islands for over 2000 years, they continued what they had been doing before they got there, until nearly every inhabitable pacific island was reached and settled.

The second large in migration was from the New Guinea islands. They landed on Angaur and Peliliou and the rock islands. As the population began to exceed their food source, plus unable to win battles against the northern people they began to move north. Imelik to Ngardmau received most the immigration from the south. The villages of medorm, Ngaramedei and Ngermasch were formerly from Angaur. The people from Ngchemiangel owned the mountains in the north of Peleliu, found a home in Imelik. The people from Ngerchol, Ngemelis and the Olbetabel islands moved to Ngermasech and the people from Bablomakang and Ngerchong moved to Ngerchemai in Koror.

500 BC - 900 AD

Palauans had developed distinct characteristics of their own:

1. They preferred extended settlements

2. Brought with them from Southeast Asia matrilineal and matrilineal societies, which they enlarge into three classes, and created aristocracy.

3. Had strong hierarchies decisions by council

4. Palau experienced military alliances between lineages, had distinct lineages, claiming specific areas.

5. Palau villages developed a legal system; laws were applied principally according to rank.

6. Palau develops intensive marine exploitation.

7. Some slash and burn horticulture by women specially craftsmen.

8. Palauans were highly competitive, generally hospitable toward guests and strangers.

9. Palauans believed in magic, shamans, diviners, mediums, and sorcerers.

900 AD - 1500 AD

A warm and generally settled climate characterized the globe. After the little ice age began unsettling the entire planet, large areas of the pacific was affected by this. Chinese and Mongol trading ships plied the South China Sea into the Sunda Island and beyond. In 1292 a Mongol expedition from Guangzhou on the Taiwan Strait went through the Sunda Islands and beyond, on the way back passed Palau, from then Marco polo heard about a great spice-producing island in the south china called java.

Between 1405-1433, china’s Ming dynasty sent out expedition under command of Zhengzhou, to pass by Palau on his way south. By this period the Europeans began to sail through out the pacific. This began the western period. During the 200 years after Magellan. The exploration of Palau during the following two centuries.

DISCOVERY OF THE PALAU ISLANDS

The search for Palau during the following two centuries.

1521

In 1521, Magellan remained too far north and sailed from Guam directly to the Philippines, after his death on April 27, 1521 on Mactan in the Philippines, the Basque Sebastian Del Cano assumed overall leadership of the expedition. On board the Victoria, he took the westward route back to Spain.

1522

In 1522, the other ship in the expedition, the Trinidad, under the command of Gonzalo Gomez De Espinosa, tried to reach New Spain on an easterly route. He wanted to accomplish this in the high latitudes and so headed in a north-northeasterly direction until he has reached 42 north. Violent storms forced him to return to the Moluccas. On this voyage, he discovered the Ladrones (Mariana Islands) between 12’ and 20’, of which only Guam and Rota, the most southern islands, became known through Magellan. At Rota, three men deserted among them Gonzalez de Vigo", who was found four years later by Loaisa’s expedition. Therefore, Magellan expedition discovered all of the Mariana Islands, but none of the Caroline Island.

1524

Upon his return from his unsuccessful voyage to the east, Espinosa came upon the Portuguese in Ternate under the leadership of Antonio De Brito, who considered the Spaniards as intruders into their territory and subjected them to the most inhuman cruelties, Espinosa was carried off to Kotchin at the western coast of India where Vasco Da Gama arrived as viceroy in September of 1524 but soon afterwards died on Christmas 1524.

1525

Don Henrique De Menezes who in 1525 sent D Garcia Henriquez to the Moluccas in order to replace Antonio De Brito, which he managed only with great difficulty, succeeded him. They soon learned that on the nearby Celebes gold was to be found and so a boat commanded by Diegode Rocha, with Gomezde Seueiral serving as pilot was dispatched. This expedition had little success and during its return, the boat was driven off-course some 300 miles to the east. Around October 1, they reached island where, they remained until January 20, 1526, waiting for favorable winds.

1526

According to Galvano, it was located between nine and 10’ North and they could pass between the islands, Rocha named them after his pilot, Islas des Sequeira. According, these islands could have been the Uiulithi archipelago, commonly referred to as Mogemog.

J. DE Barros, however, reports that the islanders clothes were made of a smooth solf fabric, and he also reports a high mountain on the west side. Accordingly, it must have been Yap since Mogemog is a low island and Palau does not have any mounds, perhaps he saw both islands. Coello, of the opinion that Rocha once again in 1528 reached the West Caroline Islands.

Admittedly, DE Barros is not very reliable, because of the location and garments, it is improbable that these were the Palau islands, as P … Tiele believes. It is too bad that an accurate account of these first dealings with the Caroline Islands is not available.

1526

Like wise Jorge De Menezes one of ma bearing this name and a man who at that time held positions due to family relations-ended up in the east as he tried to reach the Moluccas on a northern route 1626-27. Around Borneo, at the end of Aug. 1526, he sailed southwards, spent the winter below the equator on the island of Wersidcha and only in May 1527, for the first time, reached Tenate, whose sultan made an ardent enemy of the sultan of Tidore. The second Spanish expedition of "Loaisa, set sail in the wake of Magellan from Spain in July 1525.

Sebastian Del Cano who after Magellan’s dearth completed the first circumnavigation on board the Victoria, was sub-commander of its expedition. Loaisa as well as his successor, De Cano, 1526 died, shortly after the other, in the Pacific at the end of July and the beginning of August 1526 before reaching Micronesia. Their successor in office, Torbo Alonsode Salazar , touched upon the most northern of the Ratak Islands. Gaspar Rico or Taogi, which he named S. Bartolome, and then 12 days later reached the Ladrones, where Magellan ns Espinosa had already been, and where he found "Gonzale de Vigo, who boarded the ship and traveled west with him to the Philippines.

A few days after leaving the Mariana Islands Salazar, too, died on September 14, 1526 and M. J. DeCarouzsano, became commander-in-chief a sailed via Mindanao and the Talaut Islands to the Moluccas.

1527

On October 31, 1527, a new Spanish expedition with two vessels and one brigantine set sail, this time from New Spain under the command of Alvarado Saavedra. On the way westwards, they came upon the northern Ralik-Ratak Islands, probably Udjirik and Ronglap but discovered nothing else before they reached Mindanao.

1529

In May 1529, he sailed to the Celebes where he ransomed two Galicians, Romay and Sanchez, who after murdering their captain Don Jorge Manrique, deserted LOAISA’s ship Maria Del Parral. Thereafter he set out on his journey home to America, first, traveling south, he reached the island of Paine and then Wersidscha, at the island mentioned above by Jorge De Menezes and which Wichmann believed to be Wiak and Sapioni of the Schouten Islands. On the northern coast of New Guinea, he sailed eastwards without touching land, he was the first person to discover, on August 15, 1529, at 1’ 40 S, the Admiralty Islands, which he called Irai la grandee land which he recorded as Usiai, where he anchored had dealings with natives and even had a man from Ujrals with him for one year.

From there Saavadra caught sight of Ngatik 6’ on September 14, Udjelang at 9’ on September 21, and Eniwetok at 11’ 30" on Doctor 1, 1529. At 14’ north, the northeast trade wind was blowing with such force that Saaavedra abandoned the struggle to return to Mindanao.

1537

During the first decade of the discovery of Western Micronesia, 1502-30, no fewer than seven voyages took place in the area of Palau without the island being discovered. Much the same was true during the 16th and 17th centuries.

1537

In early April 1537, Ernadode Gruijalva sailed from the western coast of America, close to the equator and another ship under the command of Alvaarado to aid Pizarrc but then sailed off to the west alone. He tried to reach the Moluccas at the equator, because he crisscrossed the equator several times, sailing north as far as 25’ North and then South to 29’ S and then intended to return the crew mutinied and murdered him.

His nephew, Lopo Bavalos, succeeded him; Davalos sailed westwards near the equator. After sailing 1000 leagues, they came across an island at 1’ N, probably Apalang or Mikin in the Gibert Islands. Thirty leagues further they reached the islands off the northern coast of West New Guinea; where they lost their ship, many died and only a few reached Tidore in 1538, where Antonio De Galvao was governor of the Portuguese islands.

Galvao sought to spread Christianity cross the surrounding islands among other things in Mindanao. With respect to the distance, this could have been the island of Palau but his direction and the name, all in all point to the Sulu-lobo archipelago.

Galvano, assumes that his captain, De Castro, already brought Christianity to the West Caroline Islands, since Villalobos, in 1542 was welcomed with the words Buenes dias Matelotes, and the sign of the cross. However, there is no conclusive evidence offered for this assumption, and it is unfortunate that navigators at that time did not usually record anything about their dealings with indigenous people. It was Diego De Rocha in 1525 was the one responsible for introducing these cultural features.

1542

In 1542, Villalobos first saw some of the Ralik-Ratak Islands. On his voyage to the west, he happened across Feis and Mogemog, but certainly not the Palau Islands; He gave the Philippines their name, although Legazpi only later recorded the name.

1543

A map of the Southern Ocean by Oritelius from the year 1589 shows the Matalotes and the Dos Aricifes at 10’ north, whereas a map by the same cartographer in 1579 places them somewhat above 6’.

In 1543, Villalolbos order Bernardo de la Torre to return eastwards to New Spain in order to report to the Viceroy. He sailed north and discovered several islands at 11-12’ N that he called Philippines. Then he seems to have reached the Marianas, and from there he headed back. On the way, back he discovered an island with large paddling canoes in the center of which was mounted a princely throne. The oarsmen were largely black. Those were certainly not the Palau Islanders.

1545

In 1545, Villalobos, once again attempted to send off a ship on the eastern route to New Spain. It was under, the command of Inigo Orit de Retes, who had Gaspar Rico as a pilot. Like Saavedra in 1529, the ship sailed south along the northern coast of New Guinea, discovering and naming this island. Villalobos died in 1546 in Amboina.

In 1545, Peter Fidaigo, a Portuguese, was driven off course to the north and discovered the main island of the Philippines.

While the Portuguese established themselves in the Moluccas, the Spaniards assumed sovereignty over the Philippines.

1564

The actual conquistador of the large archipelago is said to be the Basque Miguel Lopez de Legazpi in the company of Andres de Urdaneta, who for long time had been an official in the Moluccas, but then swapped the cowl for the sword.

On November21, 1564, a squadron of four vessels together with a smaller ship, the San Lucas that would soon be separated from the other ships set sail from Mexico, Instead of making the proposed voyage to New Guinea, they were given order to sail to the Philippines. Therefore, they pursued the conventional course to the north. They discovered Medjid in the Ratak Islands, then probably Ailuk, Temo. Likiep and Arno, from there, the journey continued via Guam to the Philippines, where Spanish rule was established.

1565

The smaller vessel San Lucas followed its own course. Its captain was Alonso de Arellano, and its pilot Lope Martin, there is no doubt that they deserted. Probably for fear of encountering the squadron, they plotted their course from Likiep somewhat more to the south, and so they became the actual discoverers of the Central Caroline Islands in January 1965. From Likieop, an island that Legazpi discovered at about the same time, they sailed southwest and in all likelihood discovered Nam, Djabwat, then Truk, and the atolls west of it: Polap with Tamatam the Sorol, and finally Ngulu, erroneously called Mataloas.

At the end of January, they reached Mindanao, setting out on their return in Early March to the north. At 40’ N, they discovered a rock, and on August 9, 1565, they were back in the port of Navidad in Mexico, then the most important seaport along the west coast of the Americas.

Legazpi remained north of the Philippines and a few months sent word to America about the success of the the expedition. H put in charge of the expedition Felipe Salcedo, who after the death of his pilot Esteban Rodriguez with the assistance of the monk Urdaneta, became the second person to successfully make the voyage from west to east, from the Indies to America. He sailed at about 20’ north, so that the must be considered the true finder of the return journey.

He did not touch at the Caroline Islands. On October 1, 1565, he and his crew arrived at the port of Natividad where they were able to disprove Martin’s claim that the ships of Legazpi had gone missing.

The success of this undertaking, the voyage from west to east, should he attribute to Legazpi, since travel between the Philippine and New Spain was now made possible without infringing on the Portuguese sphere of influence.

1566

Pedro Sanchez Percon and the pilot Lope Martin, this scoundrel understood how to evade suspecting of disloyalty, but the further he journey took him to the west, where he spotted some of the Ratak Islands: Maloelab, Erikub, Gusdjelin, Udjelang, the more fearful he became of showing himself to his commander Legazpi. He instigated a plot and murdered his captain Percon. As he planned to travel northwards to China, the crew took a stand against him and marooned him along with 13 of his followers on the Namoito Atoll July 21 1566. The rest of the crew sailed to Guam, but on their way from there to the Philippines were forced to bring the ship about due to heavy storms. Along the way, it spotted a large group of islands that could have only been Mogemog or Palau, but they went to Cebu 10’ north, where they arrived on October 15, 1565.

1568

The renowned Alvaro Mendana de Neyra succeeded Legazpi. Who discovered the Solomon Islands in 1568?

On his return voyage from San Cristobal, he traveled north and at a chain of low islands at eight. 75’ latitude north discovered a chisel, a rooster and many pieces of rope, perhaps remnants of the marooned Martin and comrades.

1569

In January 1569, Mendana , returned to America, He certainly did not spot Palau on his first voyage much less on his second in 1595. On the later, he was accompanied by the famous pilot Quiros, who, after the MENDANA’s first voyage in 1568 was chronologically and followed by this second, but sill years later.

1579

In 1579, the voyage of the British navigator Francis Drake, the buccaneer and pirate, whom the English ignoring the great beats meanwhile accomplished by the Spaniards, like to hail as the second greatest circumnavigator after Magellan. He is even said to have discovered the Palau Islands. Drake’s voyage is the subject of many books.

He sailed with five ships from England, first to California and then across the Pacific to the Mariana Islands, which he reached on October 13, 1588.

1606

In 1606, Quiros’ voyager finally led to the discovery of Eapiritu S-santo. On the journey home, the only island spotted, on July, was the small island of Makin in the Gilbert Islands which was said to be located at 3.5" north with perimeter of six miles. The latter was not true for nearby Butaritari.

As much as Mendana -Quiros accomplished for Melanesia, very little was done for Micronesia even though they sailed through the islands three times.

1676

Francisco Lezcano however deserves special mention, since, by allegedly discovering an island in 1676 plus 10 years, which he named Carolina in honor of Charles II, and thereby created the Caroline Islands for the entire region, as I came to be known afterwards.

On the map, discovered in Seville, and which came into existence in 1710, only 24 years after the Caroline were given their name, one can see that the island actually sighted is probably Faroilap, an island south of the Mariana Islands.

It is often the case with inventions and discoveries that a latecomer unknowingly usurps the right of naming a discovery, not on his own merits, but by way of other circumstances and for practical reasons, out of vanity of the baptized, or servility on the part of underlings.

1705

The Captain Don Francisco de Padilla, officer-in-charge of the Spanish and Pampanga naval infantry. Personally intercede: the Father Andres Serrano and the after mentioned Domingo Medel. The former obtained in Rome the intercession of Pope Clement XL, who gave minion M arch1, 1705 an introduction letter to take with him to Paris for Louis XIV, that the King might direct his nephew, Philip V of Spain, to order the governor of the Philippines to fit out a ship for the conversion of the island. On June 10, 1705, King Ludwig presented Serrano with an introductory letter for the King of Spain.

In addition, the Pope himself wrote to the latter and to the Archbishops of Mexico and Manila, it was inevitable, then, that steps would be taken to realize the plans of the Jesuits. All of this caused the King of Spain, in a cedula of October 19, 1705, to disburse the amount of 2000 pesos annually for this purpose. Soon after this, it was reported in the letter of Lizarraga from 1711 that in 1707, when ZABALBURU was governor, a galiot was dispatched this time at government expense.

1708

It seems that governor Zabalburu received the royal degree on February 6, 1708—a sign of the influence of the Jesuits-through their Provincial Pablo Clain, immediately thereafter-in 1708—a galiot under the command of Don Pedro Lopez de Paresa was fitted out, on it, two priests and one brother took passage. They set sail on April8, but returned on July 17th after running out of food.

1709

On July 4, 1709, Zabalburu reported the events that took place in 1708 to King Philip V in a testimony about the islanders who fritted ashore in 1696.

The attempt took place in 1709. The captain was D. Miguel Elorriaga, and the pilot Wuan de Acosta. In accord with the decision of the war council, the voyage was to begin at the end of March; but on July 4, the ship still had not passed beyond the Strait of S. Bernadino due to adverse winds and calms. The depiction was away for a total of six months and, although they came close to Mogemog, returned without sighting the intended islands. They returned beaten by storms, in deplorable condition, staved, sick and discontented. On board were a family of those inlanders who were driven ashore in 1708, the chief Moac and wife Marva, their three sons, and two supervisors hailing from Voleai. They also joined the new expedition the following year, under governor Lizarraga that was finally clowned with success.

1710

In September 1710, the vessel Santisima Tridad, a patache (armed merchant cruiser) under the command of Don Francisco de Padilla asset sails from Cavite. Its pilot was Jacobo Duberon and Jose Cortil, together with Brother Esteban Baudin, while a smaller tender, the balandra S Miguel, carried Fathers Andres Serrano and Jose Bobadilla. The later vessel was wrecked in the shallows near Leyte. Its crew was rescued

However, Bobadilla fell ill with dysentery so on after, so Serrano too abandoned the journey, but told the Santisima Trinidad to carry on. On November 12, 1710, it finally set sail from Palapag.

The original account by the chief pilot of this voyage was found in a manuscript in Seville. I contain an abridged and incomplete version, just as De Bosses, Histories des Navigations, gives an account of the letter that Brother Baudin sent to Father Serrano from Liaga in Caraga on Mindanao shortly after the ship had arrived there. Serrano waited for the outcome of the expedition in Palapag.

1711

The ship arrived in early January 1711 in the province of Caraga in Mindanao, and on June 17, 1711 I Cavite the port of Manila, the letter and report were dispatched only 14 days later. The report itself begins with a Deceto in Manila from June 20, 1711; with respect to the arrival of the ship, which set sail to explore Palaos, on the 20th of this month in the port of Cavite, the captain and his pilot, who are in this city, will be notified by this clerk that they shall present the journal they kept of this voyage along with the chart containing the location and degrees latitude at which the discovered islands are to be found.

Resolution in this matter: The pilot’s Council shall be convened for the purpose determined by the Hon. Solicitor, and the pilot of the aforementioned ship shall be invited. The resolution was signed by His Excellency the Count of Lizarraga–Allanegui, Notary in the City of Manila, on June 21, 1711. I, Lt. Col. Don Miguel de Allanegui, First Notary of the Governorship of these Philippine Isles, in compliance with the orders of the decree from the 20th of this month contained in the resolution of this matter. These orders personally informed Joseph Somera, Chief Pilot of the vessel La Santisima Trinidad y San Francisco Xavier which not long ago arrived from the Palaos Islands, of its contents. After the same listened to the content of this decree, he declared that he had taken note of it, and would abide by it by submitting the Journal of the voyage end by him together with the map containing the location and degrees latitude where the Palaos Islands were to be found, along with the description of lands he saw. He put this on record and signed it, witnessed by me–Joseph Somera–Don Miguel de Allanegui, Notary in this City of Manila, at said day month and year.

I, the First Notary mentioned, furthermore acquainted Lt. Co. Don Francisco de Padilla, Chief Commander of the solders and crew of the aforementioned ship and personally known to me, with the content of this decree. After listening to the content of this decree, he declared that he would be willing to comply with the order read to me by the Notary present; he put this on record and signed it together with me as witness–Francisco de Padilla—Don Miguel de Allanegui.

JOURNAL

On the voyage for the discovery of the Palaos Island, called the New Philippines, undertaken with the shipLa Santisima Trinidad under the command of the Lt. Co. Don Francisco de Padilla, (together with Reverent Father Jacobo Duberon, prefect of the aforementioned mission, Father Joseph Cortil, the ship’s chaplain, Don Joseph Somera as First Pilot with his attendant (second pilot) Don Roque Bauptista. In the Name of God the Almighty:

Results of the third Expedition to the Eastern Islands Of the Palaos (Calderon’s Account)

As soon as the natives of the Island of Sonsorol or S. Andres spotted our ship, they came in their canoes, very light vessels, and our people received them with great joy and received them with signs of love and good will by presenting them with little keepsakes, which they appreciated, as well as with food items. The people of these islands are quite joyful and lively, good-looking, very kind, nicely built, very Spanish in character, and so trusting and friendly that our people wanted to embrace them. When they witnessed the winning manner and endearing character of the natives, they got ready to send the sloop ashore to search for an anchorage and for a river to take on water, since they were lacking in this necessity. On this voyage, the produce, nature number of inhabitants and neighboring islands should be explored, so that future expeditions can use this information. The sloop was outfitted and manned by the small number of soldiers that were able to fit in it. They were accompanied by the Palao chief who, like the heathen Moac, received baptism in Manila and was given the name D. Joseph Miguel, together with his son Juan, so that they might serve as interpreters, and the Second Pilot Roque Bauptista as Commander of the boat. When they came in sight, a large number of heathen-men, women and boys—came running onto the beach. When they saw the small boat drawing closer to shore and its passenger’s undecided, whether to set foot on land for fear that the natives might be hostile and up to no good they called and gestured, inviting them to jump out of the boat. Since the Christian Palauan assured them that there was no danger and the people of the island would not harm them, a number of those in the sloop got up the courage to go ashore. They did so as the crowd awaiting them received them not only with gestures of welcome but also even with reverence. They did not allow their feet to touch the ground lifting them up and carry them to the house of their Kazike or chief. When the chief saw this, he embraced them all and kissed their hands and feet as if they were something sacred. At the request of their chief, the assembly of natives, men and women, expressed through signs of joy and delighght at their arrival. They presented them with very fine Buri mats, like those of the Mariana Islands, and whatever food thy had handy; coconuts, fish and breadfruit, which is a kind of fruit they use as bread and coconut sap, a drink that, like vinegar mead, is very mild. At the same time, the crowed erupted in cheers.

Our people were very pleased by the hospitality and kind reception they were given by the natives, and since they wanted to bring this good news back to the ship, they prepared to return on board bringing along with them the chief and those who wanted to accompany them. After they had boarded the oat, they headed for the ship where they were given a warm welcome and gifts. In fact, we gave them little gifts, including jewelry of pretty appearance but of little value, which were meant to win their affection. The natives who were greatly astounded by this type of vessel and even more by the Spaniards’kindiness, wanted to bring all of them to their village and invited them with such urgent pleas that the Spaniards were unable to resist, even less since they discover those islands. Father Superior Jacobo Duberon and his companion, Father Joseph Cortil, the First pilot Joseph Ramon, one Majorcan, the Chief Mate Daniel Bogatin from Venice (an excellent carpenter and ship builder), the able seaman carrying the banner of his Majesty, the four Palaos, husband and wife with their two sons, and finally seven soldiers under arms embarked to go ashore. Since the purpose of this embarkation and trip to the island was not to remain on the S. Andres Islands, but simply to set yup the holy cross and the banner of His Majesty, to look for a harbor, to take on wood and thereupon to return to the ship, the Fathers and their Lady of Loreto on canvas, and some small items as gifts for the chief of the island. When Father Estuan Baudin, who was to care for the temporal needs of the mission, offered Father Superior Duberon some chocolates pastilles, the latter refused to accept them saying that for the short time they intend to remain on the island, such provisions would not be necessary and that half a piece of ship’s biscuit, a quarter of cheese, a little sugar and two gantas of seed rice would suffice. Only the Majorcan pilot was cautious enough to bring along his instruments for all unforeseen eventualities. He was so meticulous, that even brought his betel nuts bag.

Asked about the character of the people of their island, they answered that they were good, amiable, and not like those of the Islands of Palao or Panlog, they later–as they insinuated—kill those with whom they traded and had bad dealings-

Corresponding to he oberservations made at that time, the main E-W line of this compass map passes through the northern tip of Ngeaur at 7’ 15, which is actually is 6’55, the three compass roses at this latitude are 180 Spanish sea miles apart. The prime meridian of the rose in the center points strictly to the north and is located 60 miles east of Ngeaur. Each quadrant has its eight lines. Each second and sixth beam is dotted, representing NNE, NNW, WNW, SSW and so forth.

This led to the creation of a double line system that, completely independent of the coordinates, divide the ocean up into even and uneven squares. THis is a drafter’s device and a secret art of pilots who had not yet discovered the clear Mercator projection.

Therefore, on this map, the pilot attributes the discovery of Palau to himself, and the commander is only second in line. Ast Sonsorol it reads:\Isla de San Andres descubieta el 30 Noviembre 1710 por Joseph Somera, los muy Reverendos Padres se quadaron en Ella; Auiendo de Cabo superior y Sarg Mayor D’Francisco De Padilla(Island of San Andres discovered on November 30, 1710 by J. Somera. The Reverend Fathers remained on it, Commander and Major was Don Fr. De Padilla).

The governor is likewise given credit. The inscription on the top of the map reads Siende dispatched en 27 del mes de Sepiembre del ano 1710 por dho descubbrimiento por el Senor Conde de Lizarague D martinde Visua y Arismendj, Cauallero del orden de Santiago del Consejo de su Mag’d su Gouuernador Cp Gene, de Estas Islas philipinas presidente de la Audience y Cancellaria Real que en Ellas Reside (were sent off on Sept. 27, 1710 for this discovery by Senor Conde de L, D. Martin de V.y A, Knight of the Order of Santiago, on counsel of H. M., His Governor, Captain General of these Philippine Islands, President of the Supreme Court and of the Royal Pontificl Chancery, who resides on them.

The chart shows primarily the newly discovered islands of San Andres and Panlog. Next to the latter is written; Isla Mayor de los Palaos descubieta el 11 December 1710, which in turn shows that it was believed tobe the largest island of the Palaos.

One hundred and eighty Spanish miles from Panlog, in ENE on the meridian of Guam, four islands were found; Isla de Casa, ban, bato and Carolina. The distnance of 600 nautical miles on the map corresponds fairly well to the exact position that we have today. The origin of those names in not clear. Meanwhile, it is known that Lezcano, in 1686, as was said discovered an island that he named in honor of King Charles II Carolina. Soon after this, the New Philippines were called Caroline Islands.

Somera did not know theses four islands and must have recorded them as directed by a Spaniard who knew the area of the Mariana Islands, probably according to the information of Lezcano.

Presumably, Somura used the information provided by the natives of Sonsorol in the map. That map dates back to the year 1710 can be gathered from its caption; Explicacion de el Mapa de las Islas de los Palaos decrubietas por Joseph Somera, Piloto en el anl de 1710, discovered by J. S. pilot in the year 1710, as well as from the image of a Sonsorol house entrance with two ornamented posts on this mat. This could only have been seen on land by the pilot’s assistant on Decemer 4 because this landing was, and remained for a long time, the only one.

The only inaccuracy is that the western reef fault is located not much further north than the eastern fault, but overall a reliable picture is provided.

The northeastern course of the eastern reef is accurately indicated. Instead of converging at a northern tip, the reef breaks off crossways. The inland water here is empty, but at this location, a significant word is found: Palau, how the pilot came to know of this name is not evident. He could only have learned it from the Palauans, who call the limestone rocks Gogeal, the northern volcanic land Pelau, while the inhabitants of the Central Carolina Islands call the entire archipelago Palau.

On 11th of December 1710 and the following days, the first information concerning the name and the approximate shape of the archipelago was obtained.

It is believed that no sailor had set eyes on Palau before 1710, and so the 11th of December of this year has to be considered the actual day of Discovery.

FRANCISCO de PADILLA is the true discoverer of PALAU

On January 18, 1711, Brother Esteban Baudin wrote to Father Andres Serrano waiting in Palapag that the expedition vessel had arrived in Lianga on Mindanao, he also reported on what had taken place. Soon afterward, Serrano traveled to the governor in Manila to equip and send out a rescue expedition. However, this was not possible as quickly as Serrano had hoped.

On June 17, 1711, the Santisima Trinidad had arrived in Cavite, and on June 30, the letters of the governor together with the report and chart 3 of the First Pilot were dispatched. The subsequent letter of the governor to the King about this matter was only dispatched on June 25, 1712, that is one year later. The letter from June 25, 1712 says that on October 15, 1711, the Santisima Trinidad had put out to sea from Cavite but \the pinnacle in Tayabas and another one at the island of Marinduque. The Jesuit Fathers Andres Serrano and Ignaio Crespo, as well as the Brother Esteban Baudin, who once again had accompanied them, drowned.

Another ship that the local governor had dispatched to search for the Palaos had remained equally unsuccessful arrived from the Mariana Islands, probably with Fr. Geradus Bouvens on board.

On its return voyage from Mexico, the galley Nuestra Senora del Rosario, after making a port call at Guam, searched for these islands but only discovered four small isles, probably Ngulu.

1712

The,governor Lizarraga, as per his letter from June 25, 1712, ordered Don Bernardo de Egui y Zabalaga, who was both Chief Pilot and Captain of the patache Sto Domingo, to sail to Guam and to discover the remaining Palaos on its return journey. In February 1712, he indeed found some 20 small islets and islands, apart from the large island of Panlox, which apparently had already been discovered in 1710. From both he is said to have brought along a native. Those two islands on which the Fathers had remained were also said to have been discovered. The following report seems to have been attached to the letter.

The ship first discovered the Ulullssi (Mongemog) archipelago, and then Palau and Sonsorol.

ACCOUNT

Of the return voyage of the vessel Santo Domingo, which undertook the exploration of the islands of Panlog and San Andres from the Mariana Islands?

On Saturday, January 30, 1712, at about 10:30 a.m. the ship Sto. Domingo left the port of Merizo on the island of Guahan and after—as estimated by the Chief Pilot and Commander, the Lt. Col. D. Bernardo de Egui y Zabalaga–sailing 25 miles westward, turned S in order to decrease latitude. Holding this bearing, it sailed until midday of Saturday, February 6, when land was noticed ahead of the bow. Soon there up to eight small islands came into view; the ship approached them more closely and during the night remained at their windward side. On the following morning at daybreak, one could spot from the top mast 28 islands, all of them flat, and the largest not more than two miles in circumference; although the land is very flat, it is densely populated with coconuts palm. The moment the inhabitants of these islands noticed the vessel close by -around ½ mile away from the island that appeared to be largest, many natives approached in their boats and drew near, but then stopped striking their sails before tying up the ship. After beholding the ship while its crew signaled them to come near and showed them all sorts of cloth, three boats docked at the ship’s windward side and were soon followed by many others. They were told to come aboard the ship, but signified through gestures that they would only climb onto the ship if one of our men would come down into their vessels. Thereupon, one crewmember climbed down an all at once 16 to 18 o them got into the water and climbed onto the afterdeck of our ship. The Captain and Commander ordered all of them to be presented with some food and several iron nails, which they appreciated the most, he likewise gave them some wine, for if they would drink of it, some might want to remain on the ship; but he was only successful with an old man who came along, and even if one could have made some young man stay by force, the Commander did not want to do so in order not to irritate them. On the following day the 10th of the same month of February, as the ship sailed south of said islands, a boat pushed off one of them and reached us about 1 o’clock in the afternoon; it lowered its sails and docked at the ship, but the 7 Indians in it demanded that one of us come down to their boat in order for them to come aboard, as they were told. The same sailor climbed down with a rope that was thrown to him from the board of the ship, secured the boat, whereupon the Indians came on board to barter their fabrics woven plant fibers and painted with different colors and patterns, as well as loin cloths made from coconut and small wrought stones like they had done the previous day. The commander intended to capture one or two young men and to surrender the old man who had remained on the ship the day before, for which purpose he ordered the sloop, which was located out board side, to move to starboard into the sea to unmoor the boat on which our crewmember was keeping guard on the rope. At the same time, one of us fired inadvertently a musket, and even more terrified by it together they attempted to untie the rope one of them pushed our man who had been watching over it in to the sea, where another Indian hit him with the edge of one of the oars, splitting open his head. Shen the sailor saw their comrade being severely wounded, they quickly grabbed their weapons and fired six or eight shots