Early American Wooden Ware & Other Kitchen Utensils
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“It would be hard to say how and where the material for this book was gathered. From my childhood I have been interested in early manners, customs, and sayings, and have retained as I have learned. It was natural, then, that wherever I went as a collector I questioned and listened, and no chance remarks slipped by unheeded. A notebook went with me and I began to keep a diary of the happenings of the days….
“With many happy memories of places I have visited, of acquaintances I have made, of hospitality shown me by those of an older generation and of interesting correspondence with all parts of the United States, I have written my book.
“This enlarged edition has been made possible by more research work and by helpful correspondence from those interested in recording this early history. A few more pieces of wooden ware have come to the museum which now numbers over 1,000 pieces, including the iron fireplace utensils.”—Mary Earle Gould
Mary Earle Gould
Mary Earle Gould (1885-1972) was a prolific writer on the subject of antiques, material culture, and early social customs. Born in July 1885, the daughter of John W. Gould and Nellie M. Morrisson Gould, she graduated from Wheaton Seminary (now Wheaton College) in Norton, Massachusetts in 1906 with a degree in music, and initially pursued a career as a performer, lecturer, and piano instructor. In the 1930s, she developed an interest in antiques and, over the next 40 years, assembled a collection of more than 1,200 pieces of tin ware, wooden ware, and iron ware, which she displayed in her Worcester, Massachusetts home. In 1967, Gould donated her collection to Hancock Shaker Village in western Massachusetts. Gould began writing about antiques and collecting in 1934 in articles that appeared in the New York Sun, and became a regular contributor to a variety of newspapers and magazines, including Antiques, Hobbies, The Spinning Wheel, the Christian Science Monitor, and the Worcester Telegram-Gazette. Her first book, Early American Wooden Ware, was published in 1942; three other books, The Early American House (1949), Antique Tin & Tole Ware (1958), and When We Were Young (1969), followed. She passed away in 1972 and is buried in Hope Cemetery in Worcester, Massachusetts.
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Early American Wooden Ware & Other Kitchen Utensils - Mary Earle Gould
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Text originally published in 1962 under the same title.
© Papamoa Press 2018, all rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted by any means, electrical, mechanical or otherwise without the written permission of the copyright holder.
Publisher’s Note
Although in most cases we have retained the Author’s original spelling and grammar to authentically reproduce the work of the Author and the original intent of such material, some additional notes and clarifications have been added for the modern reader’s benefit.
We have also made every effort to include all maps and illustrations of the original edition the limitations of formatting do not allow of including larger maps, we will upload as many of these maps as possible.
EARLY AMERICAN WOODEN WARE & OTHER KITCHEN UTENSILS
BY
MARY EARLE GOULD
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Contents
TABLE OF CONTENTS 3
DEDICATION 4
ILLUSTRATIONS 6
FOREWORD 11
CHAPTER ONE—Earmarks on Wooden Ware 17
COMPARING THE NEW AND THE OLD 17
SOME OF THE EARMARKS 18
CHAPTER TWO—Wood—What the Early Settlers Found and How They Learned to Use It to the Best Advantage 23
THE EARLY FORESTS 23
STRUCTURE OF TREE 24
GROWTH OF TREE 24
METHODS OF CUTTING TIMBER 25
WOODS FOUND IN EARLY FORESTS 25
THE CUTTING OF TREES 30
THE COOPER 31
COMPARATIVE WEIGHTS OF WOODS PER CUBIC FOOT 31
CHAPTER THREE—Tools for Making Early Wooden Ware 33
THE INDIANS’ TOOLS 33
THE COOPERS’ TOOLS 33
THE LATHE 34
SPRING POLE LATHE 34
MANDREL LATHE 35
NAILS 35
CHAPTER FOUR—Old New England Kitchens—How Our Ancestors Lived and Labored 38
FIRST BRICKYARD 39
FIREPLACES 39
COOKING 39
TIN UTENSILS 41
DUTCH OVEN 42
ROASTING 42
OVEN IN CHIMNEY 44
SIDE OVENS 45
CHANGE IN BAKE OVENS 46
WOODEN PANELLING 46
SMOKE OVENS 46
CONTENTS OF KITCHENS 48
EATING CUSTOMS 48
EATING UTENSILS 49
SALT BOWLS 51
THE NOGGIN AND THE TANKARD 52
OTHER UTENSILS 53
THE PANTRY 54
THE BUTT’RY
55
THE MILK ROOM 56
THE PINE CUPBOARD 56
THE SHED CHAMBER AND THE ATTIC 56
CHAPTER FIVE—Pantry Tools and Labor-Saving Devices—Products of the Handy Man with an Inventive Mind 58
METHODS OF PREPARING APPLES 58
SHAKER APPLE PRODUCTS 60
APPLES FOR EATING AND FOR DRINK 61
PIES AND COOKIES 64
FROM CORN TO HASTY PUDDING 66
SHELLING CORN 67
THE INDIANS’ SAMP 69
BREAD 70
BAKING BREAD 72
BUTTER MAKING 73
BUTTER MOLDS AND BUTTER PRINTS 77
CHEESE MAKING 79
CHEESE DRAINERS 80
CHEESE PRESSES 82
THE SAP INDUSTRY 84
THE SAUSAGE GUN 85
THE MAKING OF SOFT SOAP 86
DISH DRAINER 87
WASHING CLOTHES 87
WASHING MACHINES 90
SMOOTHING BOARDS 90
SOAP DISH 92
CLOTHESPINS 92
CLOTHESLINE FRAMES 93
A BRIDE’S DOWRY 93
SPATULAS, STIRRERS AND MASHERS, MEAT POUNDERS 93
SCOOPS, SPOONS, STRAINERS 96
OTHER PANTRY EQUIPMENT 99
CHAPTER SIX—Bowls, Plates, Mortars and Pestles—Production of Hand Labor and of the Early Lathes 112
BOWLS MADE FROM THE BURL 112
INDIANS’ BOWLS 113
COLONISTS’ BOWLS 115
DIFFERENT KINDS OF BOWLS 115
WOODEN BOWLS OTHER THAN BURL 118
TRENCHERS, PLATES AND PLATTERS 122
MORTARS AND PESTLES 124
GRAIN MORTARS 124
CORN MORTARS 125
FAMILY MORTARS 125
CHAPTER SEVEN—Common Wooden Boxes that Graced the Pantry Shelves—Condiments from Foreign Shores 132
MAKING BOXES ON MOLDS 132
BUTTER BOXES 135
CHEESE BOXES 137
THE HERB BOX 138
BOXES FOR SUGAR AND MEALS 141
SALT BOXES 142
SOURCES OF SALT 142
SPICE BOXES 144
PILL BOXES 147
HINGHAM’S COOPERING INDUSTRIES 149
CHAPTER EIGHT—Buckets, Tubs and Kegs—The White Cooper Always Found Trade Brisk 150
THE GREASE BUCKET 150
THE SUGAR BUCKET 151
WATER BUCKETS 154
PIGGINS 155
SAP BUCKETS 156
SAP CARRIERS 157
WELL BUCKETS 158
BUTTER CHURNS 159
TANKARDS 162
KEGS 164
RUM KEGS 164
SWIGLERS 167
OYSTER KEGS 167
CANTEENS 167
TUBS AND KEELERS 168
SUGAR TUBS 171
ODD TUBS 174
CHAPTER NINE—Sieves—From the Tiny Sieve for Medicine Powders to the Large Charcoal Sieve 178
SIEVES OF HAIR 178
LOOM FOR MAKING SIEVE MATS 178
SHAKER SIEVES 180
SIEVES OF SILK AND OF WIRE 181
DOUBLE-COVERED SIEVES 182
WINNOWING SIEVES OF SPLINT 182
CHARCOAL SIEVES OF SPLINT 184
CHAPTER TEN—Splint Found in the Early Wooden Ware—How Obtained and How Used 186
INDIANS’ SPLINT 186
WEAVING SPLINT 187
OX MUZZLE 189
VINEGAR FUNNEL 189
CLAM BASKET 189
APPLE-DRYING BASKETS 190
CHARCOAL SIEVE 191
WINNOWING BASKETS 192
SHAKERS’ SPLINT 195
CHAPTER ELEVEN—The Beginning of Paint 196
CHAPTER TWELVE—The Lyctus Powder-Post Beetle—What It Is and How to Check It 200
REQUEST FROM THE PUBLISHER 206
DEDICATION
In the years following the first appearance of EARLY AMERICAN WOODEN WARE many of my friends who helped me have passed away. From them I had both inspiration and assistance. It is fitting, therefore, that this new edition be dedicated to the memory of Clara Endicott Sears, William Sumner Appleton, George Francis Dow, Charles Messer Stow, Lewis N. Wiggins, William B. Sprague, Frank K. Swain, my great-grandmother
Mrs. Worth, and Hugh Thatcher, the Cooper, from England. And to these loyal helpers I must add the name of my mother, Mrs. John W. Gould (1855-1959) who was my greatest inspiration and critic—who tolerated my mistakes and gave me faith in myself.
ILLUSTRATIONS
The Wooden Ware Room
...part of the author’s private museum
PLATE
1 200-year-old Elm Tree in Old Deerfield, Mass.
2 First box of collection and small oval box, 1
3 Beginning of the Museum, 3
4 Corner in hallway, showing box collection, 4
5 Three fine tankards, 5
5a Tall, slender mortar, 8
6 Dipper, Indian eating scoop and wall box, 13
7 Water buckets and wooden funnel, 14
8 Winnowing sieves, 15
9a Tankard, strainer and grater, pie peel, and two graters constructed from a tin lantern, 16
9b Three porringers, 17
9c Bannock board, 33
9d Swizzle sticks, 40
10 Tin bird roaster, apple oven, and toaster, 46
11 Tin biscuit oven, 48
12 Tin roasting kitchen
, 49
13 Dutch oven and tin toddy cup, 50
14 Fireplace showing oven at back, and fireplace with two side ovens, 51
15 Ovens with wooden doors, also smoke ovens, 54
16 Large trencher, and plate showing marks on pie side
, 58
17 Individual eating bowls and two drinking cups, 58
18 Large Shaker eating bowl with copper handles, 59
19 Assembly of salt bowls, 60
20 Noggins, 61
21 Sugar bowls, spoon holder with spoons, and butter knife, 62
22 Syrup jug and tankard, 63
22a Candle dippers, 68
23 Apple parers, 70
24 Shaker apple-butter scoop and two-way scoops, 72
25 Cider-press rack, 74
26 Rolling pins, 76
27 Cooky rollers, 79
28 Pie crimpers and oblong gingerbread print, 81
29 Pie lifters, 82
30 Corn sheller made from trunk of tree, and three-foot pestle, 83
31 Corn sheller showing standard and trough, 84
32 Corn sheller, 85
33 Hasty pudding spoon and stirrer, 87
34 Bread trough, paddle and knife, and two bread peels, 90
35 Keeler, sour cream tub, butter worker, and butter scoop, 92
36 Butter paddles, 93
37 Palette paddles and Scotch hands,
95
38 Butter prints and molds, including rare Maltese cross mold, 96
39 Cheese drainers, 98
40 Cheese ladders and baskets, 100
41 Curd breaker, two curd knives, and a flat breaker, 101
42 Cheese press, 103
43 Sausage guns, 107
44 Dish drainer, 109
45 Scrubbing stick, 110
46 Washboards, 111
47 Dolly pin and two pounders, 112
48 Smoothing boards, 114
49 Patented washer, clothespins, and two clothesline winders, 115
50 Spatulas and stirrers, hasty pudding stick, dye stick, and soap stick, 118
51 Mashers, toddy sticks, and meat pounder, 119
52 Feather bed smoother, 120
53 Dipper made from root of tree, 121
54 Spoons for stirring, and group of scoops—soft soap, grease, Shaker apple butter, and cream scoops or skimmers, 122
55 Maple syrup stirrer, 122
56 Bowl with scraper, and three skimmers, 124
57 Chopping knives, 125
58 Graters, 126
59 Lemon squeezers, 128
60 Flour and sugar sifters, 129
61 Lard squeezers, 130
62 Spice grinder, jar or nutmegs preserved in alcohol, raisin seeder and doughnut cutter, 131
63 Funnels, 131
64 Splintered birch brooms, 132
65 Splintered birch or Indian broom, 133
65a Water holder for whetstone, 134
66 Burls, 136
67 Indian and burl bowls, 137
68 Cheese drainer, 138
69 Three eating bowls, and wash bowl, 140
70 Mortars made from burl, 141
71 Chopping bowls and wash bowl, 142
72 Bird’s-eye maple bowls, salt bowl, fruit-drying bowl, and bowl of lignum-vitae, 144
73 Wooden plates, 146
74 Large grain mortars, 147
75 Group of mortars and pestles, 148
76 Group of mortars and pestles, 151
77 Quassia cups and quassia mortar, 151
77a Two burl dippers, 152
78 Round boxes by Colonists and nest of oval boxes by Shakers, 154
79 Butter and cheese boxes, 156
80 Diagram showing two types of locked laps, 159
81 Box used in carrying butter to market, 160
82 Herb and pill boxes, and box used for jewelry, 162
83 Herb boxes, 162
84 Shaker herb tray, and Shaker box with handle, 164
85 Odd handmade boxes for meal, sugar and spices, 165
86 Handmade oval boxes showing fancy laps, handmade nails and different woods, 167
87 Large round boxes showing odd laps and handmade nails, compass for marking out box covers and bottoms, wall salt box, 169
88 Groups of oval and round spice boxes, 170
89 Set of eight spice boxes, 172
90 Jar of nutmegs sealed in alcohol, and large old grater, 173
91 Group of pill boxes, 174
92 Pie box, 175
93 Grease bucket, 178
94 Sugar buckets, 180
95 Drawing showing cross section of pegs on bucket handles, 181
96 Water buckets, 183
97 Piggins, 184
98 Sap bucket, sugar tub and spiles, 185
99 Funnels used in transferring sap from buckets to sap carriers or kettles, 186
100 Two sap carriers, 186
101 Shoulder yokes, 187
102 Well buckets, 188
103 Early butter churns, 189
104 Pump churns, 190
105 Churn with paddle and crank, 191
106 Water kegs, 195
107 Rundlets, or rum kegs, 195
108 Rum keg with three swiglers, also powder keg, 196
109 Rum keg and oyster keg, 196
110 Wash tubs, 198
111 Round keeler, 199
112 Keeler and gauges used in marking bottoms of boxes and tubs, 200
113 Small sugar tubs, 201
114 Sugar tub used for cakes, 201
115 Dye tub with sour cream tub, 202
116 Butter tub, paddle, and small tub used in taking butter out to the fields, 203
117 Octagon candy pail, 204
118 Complete set of letters used in stamping names on buckets, tubs and boxes; bucket used for corn kernels, 205
118a Butter tubs, 206
118b Apple-butter buckets, 206
119 Group of sieves, including unusual winnowing sieve, 208
120 Loom for weaving horsehair mats for sieves, 210
121 Flail for threshing grain, 212
122 Drawings showing manner of fastening splint in a winnowing sieve, 213
122a Hatchel for straightening hair, 215
123 Diagram of hexagon weaving in cheese baskets, 218
124 Cheese baskets, egg basket, clam basket, ox muzzle, and large funnel, examples of skilful weaving, 219
125 Cobweb apple drier, 222
126 Apple-drying basket, 223
127 Charcoal sieve of splint, 224
128 Winnowing basket of splint, and winnowing sieve, 225
129 Three other winnowing sieves, 225
130 Rare eel trap of splint, 226
130a Winnower for grain, 227
131 Little Red schoolhouse at Wayside Inn, Sudbury, Mass., 232
PLATE
A Fig. 1 Butter trough
Fig. 2 Scales for weighing butter
Fig. 3 Butter prints
В Fig. 1 Butter testers
Fig. 2 Milk stools
С Fig. 1 Smoothing sticks
Fig. 2 The first washer with suction cup
Fig. 3 Soft soap scoops
Fig. 4 A pounder for clothes
D Fig. 1 Apple parer
Fig. 2 Pennsylvania apple-butter stirrer
Fig. 3 Apple grinder
PLATE
E Fig. 1 Pig platter
Fig. 2 Bread and butter boards
Fig. 3 Pantry mortars and pestles
F Fig. 1 Pastry jiggers
Fig. 2 Toddy stirrers
G Fig. 1 Feed bags for horses
Fig. 2 Splint goose basket
Fig. 3 Feather-bed basket
H Fig. 1 Sheep yoke
Fig. 2 Sheep tattoo stamps
FOREWORD
STANDING before my museum of wooden ware, numbering nearly eight hundred pieces and including a pantry box collection, one’s first impulse is to ask how it happened. Things can happen with no deliberate intent, and this happening
of mine came merely as a hobby. It came at a time when my days were full with the profession of music—teaching, playing and lecturing.
In the fall of 1932, I found an old cheese box in a shed up country.
I was antiquing with a collector friend and had expressed no interest or enthusiasm for any of the so called antiques. However, this article appealed to me as a container for my rag-rug pieces. It took a second trip to buy the box as the owner was reluctant to let it go.
I had the box scraped and shellacked but fortunately left intact the owner’s name, lettered in yellow on the bottom, S. Reed,
who at one time lived in the childhood home of my father. A chance second box an oval spice box, gave me the impetus to ask for boxes as I drove about and visited antique shops. Not knowing anything about such boxes I expected to be enlightened by dealers and by books in libraries. But dealers at that time knew nothing about them and cared less, considering them such common articles as to be of no account; and libraries in my own and several distant cities had no references to boxes, and not even a picture could be uncovered.
Within six months my collection numbered twenty-seven boxes and they were all different. My curiosity was aroused and I found myself studying the shapes, analyzing any odor and examining the workmanship. I drew my own conclusions as to what each box had once held. The round shape of the cheese box and of the butter box, the odors of spices and the stains of salaratus, the mark of the sugar scoop, and the size of the herb and the pill boxes—all helped me to figure out the original uses for which the boxes were made.
My inherent gift of writing urged me to pen the story of my collection. I wanted to set down my discoveries and strengthen my own deductions. I went to auctions, visited any and all shops within reasonable distance and even went into private homes when an invitation had been given.
Like any new plaything, the boxes were a keen joy to me and I wanted to show them to my friends. One day I started out in my car to see a friend, taking with me my choicest boxes. I stopped at Northampton, Massachusetts, where Wiggins Tavern has made its name both as a hotel and as a museum. While I sat at luncheon, Mr. Lewis Wiggins, in the role of host, spoke to me and, as one collector to another, I told him of my box collection. Mr. Wiggins asked to see the boxes in my car and soon we were comparing them with those of his own collection. We discussed every angle of those pantry receptacles, Mr. Wiggins expressed the desire that I write an article for his friend, Mr. Charles Messer Stow of the New York Sun. That article appeared in the Saturday antique section in the spring of 1934, the first of a group that followed. I do not recall whether or not I continued on the way to see my friend that day!
Still not satisfied with the little I knew about boxes, I wrote to Clara Endicott Sears of Harvard, Massachusetts. Miss Sears is an authority on the history of Shaker industries, having established Fruitlands, of Bronson Alcott fame. Miss Sears sent me to William Sumner Appleton of Boston, organizer of the Society for the Preservation of New England Antiquities. Visiting the museum I found Mr. Appleton, but instead of giving me information he asked me to help him classify the boxes on his shelves. At that time I met the curator, the late George Francis Dow, and discussed with him the material for an article on the pantry for Old Time New England, the monthly magazine of that society. The article appeared before the one in the New