Culinary History of Downeast Maine, A
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About this ebook
Sharon L. Joyce
Sharon Joyce is a trainer/educator/chef and author who graduated from Northwestern University in Chicago. She studied Advanced French Cooking and Pastry at Cordon Bleu in Paris in 1981 and operated a catering business and cooking school in Chicago and in the Virgin Islands. She has taught various types of cooking classes, including French, International, Regional American, Downeast Maine Cooking and Cruzan cooking in such locations as Chicago, Bar Harbor, California and Christiansted, St. Croix USVI. She was fascinated by the abundance of local foods when she moved to Bar Harbor more than thirty years ago. She operates Ambrosia Cooking School in Bar Harbor, Maine.
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Culinary History of Downeast Maine, A - Sharon L. Joyce
INTRODUCTION
The way life should be.
—Maine slogan
So, where is Downeast Maine? Downeast Maine is usually considered the area along the coast consisting of Hancock and Washington Counties. Downeast is a nautical term meaning that if you were sailing from Boston or other southern areas in New England you would sail downwind and east to arrive on the eastern coast of Maine. Ok, it is a bit confusing. But there is another saying in Maine: You can’t get there from here.
Maine is a place where roads end or begin, depending on how you look at it. Small towns, good people, some not particularly fond of those city types, various traditions and an interesting history of foods. There are treasures of natural beauty and interesting people.
You can lose yourself in thought in the natural beauty of Acadia National Park and walk along the rocky coast as you watch lobstermen haul their traps.
As you begin this book, you are probably wondering what was trending in the 1700s or if one had know at least two gelatin-based recipes in the 1950s and 1960s to be considered a good cook. What immersions and infusions were essential to Native American recipes? Perhaps you have thought about what your tastes and family background bring to what you eat. Are you influenced by foods where you live?
Maine slogan, The way life should be.
The Fourth of July parade in the Village of Bar Harbor. Author’s collection.
Maybe you are just wondering what to have for dinner tonight or how the foods you eat affect your health.
Why is cooking too much work for some and a therapy for others? I am in neither category. I am a lifetime learner of many things. Cooking, eating, gathering together are what we build our lives around, so why not learn as much as we can about food? I have empathy for those who are overwhelmed by the number of untested recipes and food blogs that don’t lead to a good final result. Hopefully, you don’t give up and are happy with your mistakes. Humor is helpful.
A woman who stopped by the cooking school said she didn’t cook at all. However, if she did cook, she would only be interested in new
food cooking. She wanted to be on the cutting edge of the things she didn’t do. And who is to say she wasn’t? Things change, but the basics are there and, for the most part, have been there. We, as Americans, want to be the first and best, but toasting bread is toasting bread. A toaster is a toaster even though it may be bigger or a different color or faster.
I am from away. Even though I have lived in Maine for over thirty years and my son was born here, I am not considered to be from Maine. Even if you are born in Maine, you may not be considered from here by those who are from here. I do, however, have an even longer connection to Maine. When I was little, I loved lobster and would want lobster when my family went to a nice restaurant. I don’t remember them ever saying that it was too expensive, even though we didn’t have a lot of money. When I was in fifth grade, I had to pick a state to write a report on, and I chose Maine. I busily glued lobster shells and potato pieces on a poster and knew I had to go to Maine someday. Maine is not usually on your way somewhere else. Coming to Downeast Maine is usually a destination trip, as you are not passing through Maine to go somewhere else. So, when I had an opportunity to actually come to Maine, I took it. I stayed.
This is an understanding of the ingredients of the foods that come together in a recipe. It has been a fascinating journey for me. Why do you care about what the first inhabitants were eating or how they adapted in this new area later called Downeast Maine? It is a part of understanding yourself and opening up to creative thinking. Looking at more than a package of food at the store. It is a story about planning, organizing and stopping to think about what we eat.
1
THE FOODS THAT THE NATIVE AMERICAN FIRST SUMMER VISITORS
FOUND ON MOUNT DESERT ISLAND
How the Ingredients Were Used and the Wisdom that Has Been Forgotten over the Years
And so it began. Many think Native Americans in Maine, as well as all indigenous people, most likely came across the Bering land bridge from Siberia to Alaska that connected the continents thirteen thousand years ago. After the ice age, there was a slow migration into various areas of the Americas, and according to the Abbe Museum in Bar Harbor, there is evidence of Native American life on Mount Desert Island over ten thousand years ago. The first to settle here were called People of the Dawn,
as those who live in this area of Maine are the first to see the sunrise in the country.
Obviously, they must have learned to look for water, certain plants and animal tracks as well as some method of catching fish during their migration. They passed down this information from generation to generation by word of mouth.
It is sometimes difficult to imagine a life without any traditional job. Their job
in life was based on figuring out how to find food and shelter.
Corn is a good example of learning from history. Corn started in Peru, where you will find that a number of foods are thought to have originated. There is evidence of corn in the tombs of Peru as food offerings to gods and woven into fabrics and clay. It is believed that corn was cultivated by Native Americans for centuries before the European explorers arrived. The seeds and planting methods were passed on from tribe to tribe. There was wisdom in their methods of planting. Corn was sowed with a small fish for fertilizer, and beans were grown next to the newly sprouted grain so that the legumes could climb the stalks. Squash was planted near the bottom of the two for shade, weed reduction and providing nitrogen to the soil. This method of planting was called Three Sisters, indicating that the three sister plants worked together to provide food for the family or tribe. Known Native American dishes like corn bread, grits, corn pudding, roasted corn and hoe and Johnny/journey cakes were part of Wabanaki culture for thousands of years. There is a wild plant in Mexico called teosinte, and it has some characteristics of modern corn. Teosinte has a hard outer shell, and when put in a fire, it pops, becoming our first form of popcorn. Pumpkin and squash were being used before the colonists arrived, and even some of these may have originated in Peru before starting their journey through America. Beans were cultivated such a long time ago it is difficult to know where their wild ancestors came from.
Acadia National Park and the views from Cadillac Mountain. Author’s collection.
Beans and cornmeal keep a long time. They are easily eaten when ripe or could be dried and carried when the people seasonally migrated. They dried the corn by spreading it in the sun and keeping it away from any moisture. Then they would wrap and bury it underground for winter food. Squash and its seeds could also be dried, making perfect planting companions for this reason as well as mutual nutritional value and minimizing insect damage. Wild plants were a mainstay. Groundnuts, a type of potato-like tuber, corn, squash and beans were staples. Native Americans were clever in learning how to most successfully plant crops so that there was enough to eat and enough to store for leaner months. There was wisdom in their methods of planting
The glaciers left a rocky soil uniquely suited for Maine foods like wild blueberries and other natural foods that have been forgotten. One article said there were tons
of edible wild plants in Maine. There are a lot of these wild plants still out there, but this is not a book on foraging.
One wild plant I use in my cooking classes is fiddlehead. This is a popular food in Downeast and grows in wet, boggy areas. It should be boiled before using to rid the fiddleheads of any toxins. After precooking, you can use it in any recipe that uses asparagus. I have even found fiddleheads in a high-end grocery store in Chicago. It is a particular fern, the Ostrich fern. They are harvested in early spring when the fern is just getting ready to open. The head, which looks like the shape of a fiddle, tastes like asparagus.
Spruce buds and tips are edible spring crops and have been used in brewing beer for centuries. In the spring, the buds from the spruce tree are harvested and eaten or dried for tea during. It has a milder taste when the bud first appears. Natives gave spruce buds to sailors who were suffering from scurvy. Spruce gum was the first chewing gum in America, and it is still available. Other trees like chestnut, sassafras and certain hickory trees were used for food, medicine or strong wood to make tools. Sugar maples and yellow birch were tapped for sugar and syrup in early spring. Strawberries, raspberries and blueberries were summer harvests.
Fiddleheads of the Ostrich fern are a wild indigenous food still popular in Downeast Maine today. It tastes somewhat like asparagus. Courtesy of R.W. Buyers.
Spruce buds were eaten or used for teas and contain a high amount of vitamin C. Author’s collection.
Cattails, acorns and dandelions are edible plants that people may recognize.