Full-Size Ford Restoration: 1960-1964

By Colin Kleer

Ford's full-size model change from 1959 to 1960 was seen as a big departure from the swerving lines of the 1950s. Slow to start on sales, Ford's full-size production grew year after year, peaking with 648,010 units produced in 1963. It was an all-time best for the Galaxie line and its sister nameplates. Eight appearance and performance offerings were applied to the full-size Ford line including the Fairlane, Galaxie, Ranch Wagon, Country Sedan, Country Squire, Courier, 300, and Custom, which made each car unique.

With more than 2.3 million full-size Fords produced from 1960 to 1964, a restoration book for these cars has been desperately needed, and here it is! Author Colin Kleer, president of Pennsylvania's Three Rivers chapter of the Galaxie Club puts his decades of experience restoring these cars into this single volume. Featuring step-by-step procedures on body, driveline, chassis, and interior components, Kleer shows, with more than 400 photos and text, how to restore a full-size Ford to its former glory. Crucial projects such as rust repair and driveline maintenance help guarantee that your Ford will be sound and solid for years to come after the restoration.

The Galaxie and its full-size stablemates continue to be a strong force at car shows and in the marketplace; they create an even deeper following for these cars. Adding a detailed restoration book to the full-size restorers arsenal will surely aid in bringing more of these Fords back to life and back on the road.

• Language: English
• Publisher: S-A Design
• Release date: Aug 15, 2017
• ISBN: 9781613254202

Colin Kleer

Colin Kleer has been restoring and servicing full-size Fords, Galaxies, and Mustangs since 1994 when he purchased his first 1960 Country Sedan station wagon. Since 1994, he has owned 18 full-size Fords along with many other Ford and Lincoln cars. He currently works fulltime restoring and servicing 1954-1966 full-size Fords.

Book preview

INTRODUCTION

The Ford Galaxie was produced from 1959 to 1974. Having both Fairlane and Galaxie insignia, the first year 1959 Galaxie would lead to a wonderful production line for many years to follow. The 1960 and 1961 years shared the same chassis and many big-body features as the Fairlane and lower-level models.

As a predecessor to the Muscle Car era, the full-size Fords of the early 1960s set the bar high. The quickly evolving performance world was seeking more and more power. Each year covered in this book brought something new to the racing world, starting with the 1960 352 360-hp engine and leading to the 425-hp 427 offered in 1963½ and 1964. The 4-speed manual-shift transmissions to lightweight Galaxie race cars, the Galaxie, and other full-size trim levels helped Ford be competitive. The full-size Fords for 1960 and 1961 would cover the Galaxie, Sunliner, Starliner, Fairlane 500, Fairlane, 300s, and wagons. Starting in 1962, the Fairlane became a smaller car with a far different structure compared to a full-size Ford. In 1962, you didn’t really see any stripped-down models but back for 1963 was the 300.

And it’s actually badged a 300. The 1964 full-size Fords brought us the Galaxie, Sunliner, Custom, and wagons. All 1962–1964 Galaxies could have come in an XL trim level, which is the highest level of trim available for the Galaxie of this vintage.

This 1961 Galaxie two-door sedan...

This 1961 Galaxie two-door sedan has gone through a complete restoration with many upgrades, including a 1963 R code 427 driveline. This car is a real attention grabber, and there is no question why. Tasteful upgrades with an immaculate restoration make this 1961 a real winner!

Each year you can find a model that is a rare bird. Although there is no existing documentation of the exact breakdown of these cars, you can at least dial down to the number of body styles produced. Some models, such as the 1960 Ford 300, were produced in very few numbers. Although the trim of the 1960 300 may look like the base Fairlane, a body code of 31 (two-door) and 32 (four-door) indicated body style of the 300. Other indicators were the lack of basic items such as a radio or door-controlled interior dome light switches.

The 1960–1964 Fords have not always been as popular as they are today. With only a handful of these cars built with the intent of racing from Ford, the majority were built as large family cars. Even those cars blessed with powerplants such as the 427 were still large family cars. Although many of these family cars were raced, they doubled as a fully functional car of their time. Because the mass majority of these cars were family cars, many of the pony cars and smaller cars took over interest and modification platforms as time went on. Through the decades, many of these full-size Fords were put to their final rest in scrap yards and junkyards. Although many people loved them, they may not have had the popularity that pony cars had in decades past.

We have seen the popularity and following of these cars pick up progressively year by year. Some of the Galaxies were more popular than others. The 1963½ and 1964s have always been popular in the big car arena. Some of the 1960 models have picked up an increased following but were an overlooked year for collectors for many years. With a radical redesign and not the best reputation for looks through the years, many of these 1960 cars have been forgotten. Finding a 1960 body code 31 or 32 is tricky. Even models such as the Starliner or Sunliner, which probably were never fully overlooked, are difficult to find today. Each year has its difficult-to-find models and its common models.

Rarity of parts is another item to consider during restoration. With an increasing popularity comes an increase in part vendors and supplies. Although more and more parts are being reproduced, many are not. The balance between reproduced parts and available original parts will probably always be present. Unlike many pony cars or Tri-5 Chevys, I don’t see these cars ever being a mail-order build, meaning, you still need to source parts, as not every part is reproduced. There are many schools of thought on reproduced parts and how they affect the value of the original parts. If everything can be purchased new, is there still value in the original parts? I believe so, but that’s just my opinion.

Throughout this book you will find restoration techniques and approaches that can be tackled by a novice in a typical garage. Because the 1960–1964s are each unique but similar in many ways, you will see pictures and descriptions of many restorations. I tried to provide examples using as many different years and models as possible. As you read through this book, I hope that you will learn something that can be applied to your car. I only graze over some topics for the sake of content that could really be books on their own, for example, engine and transmission building. Other books cover engine building in depth, so there is no reason to re-cover these topics, but I discuss some small, related items and tips.

You will find examples that can be implemented on anything from a driver build to a concours-correct build. I tried to cover ideas and techniques more than documentation. In one of the examples of a frame-off, you will see the underside of the car painted body color. It’s debatable on body color, red-oxide, or gray slop in color. Many of the correct approaches or factory spec restoration items are covered, but each car could have varied in its own way. I leave the exact correctness up to your documentation before rebuild and/or research of the car’s production process.

Each chapter of this book gives a realistic approach to the restoration of your car. You will see some basics, along with more advanced restoration steps. Each major area is covered. Although I couldn’t document every single nut and bolt, many of the more commonly needed areas are addressed. Many topics of body, interior, chassis, driveline, and upgrades are covered. You will find some areas are covered a little more in-depth than others. Some of the topics only touched on can be found in other publications. In addition, subjects such as chroming and machine work that really need to be outsourced didn’t seem to have a place in this book. All of the items covered ones that an average Jane or Joe can complete at home with the help and support of family and friends.

Family and friends will be a large part of your restoration, not so much in helping with the actual restoration (although it would be nice) but more in giving you the support and time needed to dedicate to the project. One thing that has helped me enjoy this hobby is the support and freedom my wife gives me to work on my passion, which is early-1960s Fords. Early on, my parents enabled me to get into the hobby, and along the way people have passed on their knowledge to me. If you have the chance to share your knowledge with someone younger, please do. It will only help the hobby live on and give someone a chance to learn some new skills.

Skills, knowledge, and support are great; however, with any large undertaking such as a restoration, there always could be setbacks or unforeseen issues. I hope that some of these covered topics will mitigate some of the heartaches. As you will see, throughout the book I state that the intent of this hobby should be fun. You will have hours upon hours of difficult and dirty work restoring your car. But from selection through building, all the way to driving, you should be having fun. A few cuts and tears may occur, but they should all be racked up to enjoyment of the process. The 1960–1964 full-size Fords are becoming more popular, but they are still a little rare at the local car shows. Let’s get them out and about. Learn, have fun, and enjoy your restoration so these cars can be seen and enjoyed by everyone.

CHAPTER 1

HOW TO IDENTIFY A PROJECT CAR

Restoring a car is no small task. We live in an age in which TV show producers have been able to produce some really cool programs that appeal to the auto enthusiast. These shows are gear-head soap operas. Like a soap opera, sometimes these shows don’t exactly shed a true light on the situation. Any given night you can turn on the TV and find one of these shows with a team of people pumping out a really cool restoration or custom car within a few days. The key term is team. The majority of those reading this don’t have a staff of 20 restoring a Galaxie or full-size Ford. More than likely it’s just you. Having support with your build is nice, but you may not be fortunate enough to have all the help you need. Whether you are building this car alone or with help, you need to choose the right project so you end up with the desired result in the end. Your decision to choose the correct car not only determines how big your smile is in the end, it also determines all of the fine details in the middle and throughout the project. What kind of details? Money, time spent, room needed, and resources available. If you have the luxury of picking your build, identify the car that fits your plan.

Why Choose a Full-Size Ford?

There are many good reasons to choose a full-size Ford as your restoration candidate. If you’re choosing an early model to feel a sense of nostalgia or stir up some good memories, you are not alone. Your decision could be based on the Galaxies’ strong racing heritage, not only at the drag strip but also in NASCAR. Another reason may be the affordability of the 1960–1964 full-size Ford; in most of its forms, excluding lightweights and rare models, it is more affordable than say a Boss Mustang or Yenko Camaro. This sled may have been an heirloom or something that just fell into your life.

Some consider this 1960 Ford...

Some consider this 1960 Ford Country Sedan nine-passenger station wagon a Galaxie Wagon. As a southwestern car, there is little rust beyond the surface. The level of restoration should be based on resources available; however, in this condition, it could be driven or restored. This car would work for a novice or expert, but either way, it definitely deserves a second chance at roaming the pavement.

Either way you are choosing to work with a car that was produced as a full-size family vehicle with hundreds of thousands being produced. Although some of the high-performance and special option cars were built in much lower numbers, the Galaxie in general is not a difficult car to find sources and parts for. If hauling your friends and family to car shows is something that interests you, a Galaxie is a good choice. Most Galaxies have a five- or six-passenger capacity, and some wagons accommodate nine people. Excluding 1960 and 1961, you could have a center console limiting you to five people, which includes the driver. Along with a roomy interior, you have plenty of trunk space.

Trunk space is a major...

Trunk space is a major benefit you receive when restoring a full-size Ford. This 1964 Galaxie trunk simply isn’t small. Golf clubs, coolers, chairs, really anything can fit back here, unlike some smaller cars.

If room doesn’t do it for you, maybe it’s potential performance that gets you revved up. Beyond that, a Ford Galaxie is one beautiful piece of art and machinery! Let’s face it: A full-size Ford is functional, stylish, and can be had from the factory with a big-block, 4-speed. And all 1960–1964s come equipped with the stout 9-inch rear end.

Year to Year

I could write an entire book about the history and options of 1960–1964 full-size Fords. For the sake of space, I highlight only a few key points of each year.

1960

The 1960 full-size Ford brought a new body style called the Starliner. Along with the Starliner, all 1960 Fords were drastically different looking than the first and prior year Galaxie. The 1960 Fords brought high performance to the game. The 352 engine with an option sporting 360 hp was available in all 1960 models, excluding wagons. This 352 had solid lifters, aluminum intake, Holley 4160 carburetor, cast shorty headers, and a compression ratio of approximately 10.5:1. There are only estimates of how many of these engines were produced, but that number seems to come to around 5,000. The engine code was a Y, which is the same as a 352 300-hp version. A Y-code means that the fifth digit of the VIN was Y. Unfortunately, this makes the 360-hp versions a fake car builder’s dream. The good news, if you are worrying that you may have a potential clone, is that the actual 352 high-performance parts are difficult to find. Even a set of COAE-6090-D heads can cost far more than $2,000 just for bare heads.

It’s easy to spot a...

It’s easy to spot a 1960 Ford, as it has wings that run laterally away from the rear quarter panels. The 1960 Fords were 5.7 inches longer than the 1959 models and a significant 5 inches wider than the year before. Before choosing a 1960, make sure it fits in your garage. This particular model has a 352-ci FE with 360 hp. Seeing a Starliner with 15-inch wheels and poverty caps may indicate that there’s 360 hp under the hood.

Thanks to solid lifters, revised...

Thanks to solid lifters, revised camshaft and heads, high compression, headers and aluminum intake, this 4.0-inch bore and 3½-inch stroke engine was able to pump out a whopping 360 hp.

If you are interested in a 1960 Ford Galaxie, they can be had relatively inexpensively. Solid restoration candidates can be as low as a few thousand dollars for a four-door, but much more expensive for a convertible or Starliner. Of all the 1960–1964 full-size Fords, it seems that the 1960 models are a little more difficult to find. These were so drastically different that not many were preserved. If you look at the classifieds, you will notice 1960 has a lot less options on the market than other early-1960s Fords.

1961

The 1961 Fords brought back the round taillights, calmer fins, and loads of options. There was no shortage of trim options in 1961. Models included Galaxie Club Sedan, Galaxie Town Sedan, Galaxie Club Victoria, Galaxie Town Victoria, Starliner Hardtop, Sunliner Convertible, Country Squire, Country Sedan, Ranch Wagon, Fairlane Town Sedan, and Fairlane Club Sedan.

The second and last year...

The second and last year of production for the Starliner was 1961. The sleek thin pillar roofline makes the Starliner easy to recognize. The Starliner’s base engine is the 292, but this Starliner has a 390 in the 401-hp version, which was new for 1961. Three 2-barrels sent this engine into the Ford record book as its first production engine with more than 400 hp. Thank you, Ford!

New for 1961 was the performance-changing 390 FE. Engine options included 223 Millage Maker I6, 292 Thunderbird V-8, 352 Thunderbird special 220 hp, 390 Thunderbird Special with 300 hp, 390 Thunderbird Super with 375 hp, and the high-performance option 401-hp versions of the 390. The 390 with 375 and 401 hp had solid lifters, cast shorty headers, and an aluminum intake.

Tri-Power was a dealer-installed option in most cases and boosted performance to 401 hp. There were some examples of 390s with Tri-Power leaving the Ford factory. If the 390 Tri-Power wasn’t enough of a game changer for the Galaxie, a BorgWarner T10 4-speed became a dealer-installed option. The last year of the two-year Starliner run and the full-size Fairlane was 1961.

1962

In 1962 the Galaxie didn’t receive a major facelift. Using some of the same body lines as the 1961, only slight changes were made, save for the tail end. The rear fins were completely removed for a smooth rolling rear fender. The 1962 Galaxie brought an even more luxurious option to the already beautiful model line, the XL500. An XL order came with bucket seats, upgraded Mylan door panels, and a floor console. There were 47 interior color key options and 13 exterior colors available.

The 401-hp 390 was an...

The 401-hp 390 was an option in 1961. This engine has been restored with many correct components such as a dual-point distributor and correct carburetion. The addition of aluminum heads helps with weight and can potentially increase performance.

Five engines were available for the 1962 Galaxie. These sizes included the 223 I6, 292, 352, 390, and the new 406, along with induction and performance options for the FEs. Two carburation options came with the 406: one with an aluminum intake and 4-barrel (B-code) carburetor and another with a 3 × 2 Tri-Power setup (G-code). All 406 engines came with solid lifters, revised cam and heads, adjustable rocker arms, and cast-iron headers, most of which were shorty headers. The shorty headers were cast-iron exhaust headers that were called short because they were not the full length of a full header. These headers first showed up on the 1960 352 with 360 hp. Shorty headers were nothing like the restrictive log manifolds found on standard-performance FE engines. Some 406 engines did have cast-iron long-tube headers. The difference between a B- and G-code is simply the intake and carburetors. The cam and other engine components are the same between the B- and G-codes.

An XL option was new...

An XL option was new for 1962. Along with bucket seats, console, and some additional trim upgrades, the XL had these unique door panels. Sourcing parts such as new door panels can be done through many retail vendors. Some more difficult-to-find patterns can be had new from SMS Upholstery or custom made.

Oxford Blue 1962 full-size Fords...

Oxford Blue 1962 full-size Fords were coded with an H paint code on the data plate. This 1962 shares many visual reminders with the 1961s, which is not a bad thing!

The 4-speed now was a factory-installed transmission and standard behind the 406. Tri-Power setups now came this way from the Ford Factory, as opposed to dealer installed the prior year. The last year for the 292 Y-block in American passenger cars was 1962. The Y-block lived on until 1964 in the trucks and for a decade more overseas.

1963

The 1963 Galaxie rolled off the assembly line and into showrooms sporting a new look that would have Ford fans drooling for decades! The new model Galaxie brought upper and lower body side molding that ran the length of the car. If you were on a budget, a full-size 1963 could be had with limited trim and a smaller engine. Of course, you could order a fully loaded XL version as well. Engines available were the 223 (not available for XL cars in 1963), 260 (new small-block), 352, 390, and 406. The 1963½ version brought a sport roof fastback roof line, full wheel covers, wall-to-wall carpet, deluxe contoured upholstery package as standard, and now the raucous 427 option. A few highlights of the 427 are as follows: monstrous 4.23-cylinder bore with 3.78 stroke, solid lifters, high-performance cam profile, high compression, cast long-tube headers, and a choice between a single 4-barrel and dual 4-barrels.

The last year for the...

The last year for the 292-ci Y-block in a U.S.–based passenger car was 1962. It was replaced in 1963 with a small-block 260-ci. Well known as Ford’s first production overhead valve V-8, the Y-block will not see another passenger car in U.S. models. It lived on in U.S.–based trucks until 1964 and many years beyond that overseas.

This Rose Beige 1963½ Galaxie...

This Rose Beige 1963½ Galaxie packs a 427 FE engine. Each year Galaxie or full-size Ford had specific engine badge placement. As long as the fender is factory and the car came with a 390, 406, or 427, there will be holes in the correct location for the badges. If the fender is aftermarket, you need to carefully measure to ensure the badge ends up in the correct location. Skip the templates and measure an actual original Ford fender for placement accuracy.

The fifth digit of this...

The fifth digit of this car’s VIN is a Q. I see a single 4-barrel carburetor on top of this 427 Q-code. I have seen Q-code 427s with an R-code (two 4-barrel intakes on top). Somewhere along the line the intake was changed. It wouldn’t be out of the norm to purchase the multi-carburetor setup and have it installed. Increasing power has always intrigued people.

The Toploader is a strong...

The Toploader is a strong and reliable 4-speed transmission. It gets its nickname because the internals are loaded through the cover plate on top of the transmission. This particular transmission was removed from a 1964 Galaxie 500 XL with a 390. The cover plate was just removed to inspect the internals. With 110,000 miles, this transmission looks healthy. With proper care and good shifting, these transmissions last a long time.

Q-Code

The Q-code was a 427 single 4-barrel. The ever-so-intimidating R-code meant you were sporting the red light slayer 425-hp 427. The Synchro Smooth manual column shift transmission showed up in 1963 with a synchronized first gear. Many people consider the 1963½ Galaxie one of Ford’s most sought after cars today.

If a 1964 full-size Ford...

If a 1964 full-size Ford is what you like, finding one isn’t difficult. At any given time, you can find these for sale at swap meets, in the classifieds, or online. This particular model is a Galaxie 500 with a 390 option.

1964

Ford marketing efforts described the 1964 Galaxie as a car bred in open competition and built for total performance. Most of the under-car components such as suspension and braking are the same as the 1963 cars. Full-size 1964 Fords offered 16 models to choose from. Wagons, convertibles, four-door hard tops, four-door post cars, two-door fastbacks, and two-door post cars were all on the menu in 1964. Most of the same engines were available for the 1964 cars, 223–427. The small-block entry level V-8 was stepped up to 289 ci, the 352 was again offered with a 4-barrel, and the 390 was still a stout 300 hp, unless a P-code solid lifter 390 was ordered, which was rated at 330 hp. The 427 was still king with a 4-barrel and 2 × 4-barrel option. The transmissions were the same with the addition and introduction of the ever-so-strong Toploader 4-speed. The Toploader was a stronger 4-speed and replaced the side-loaded T-10.

Some people have a bond or an attraction to a particular year or model project car. The good news for the five fabulous Fords, 1960 through 1964, is they all have something to offer. There was no bad year or model to stay away from. Each year has a high-performance option and all five years have bare-bones or high-option models (though not many bare-bones 1962s can be found). Furthermore, whether you pick a highly optioned 427 convertible XL car as an investment or plain Jane straight-6 four-door as a driver, you will be noticed!

Assessing Your Situation

Although this book, your friends, and car clubs such as the Galaxie Club help you with the build, your actual ability and resources dictate how this all goes. When I was working for a large corporation leading sales teams, I told my salespeople cliché things such as, A goal without a plan is just a wish, or Plan your work and work your plan. It sounded corny in that atmosphere, but it really holds true in restoration. Many project cars for sale are those that people started but didn’t complete. They were wishes. People had great intentions but never really set realistic goals.

As an example, I bought a car from someone who had only $4,500 to do the build. After a paint job and an exhaust system, the money was gone. When he ran out of money, he didn’t have a place to store it and the dream turned into a bothersome project. After all of that, he lost interest and his head and heart simply were not into the car any longer. The car has been saved and finished at this point.

Even more important than money is skill. I stay away from rust, but could you imagine buying a car, pulling it apart, sending the body to be media blasted, and getting it back with thousands of pinholes? It happens. You need to assess your skills, resources, and devotion, so that you can find the correct car for you.

What to Avoid

Now that you have decided to take on a full-size Ford as a project and you have come to terms with your skill and resource level, it’s time to start looking at cars. Before sourcing your car, you need to know what to avoid. Your skills and resources determine how far gone of a project you can take on.

Titles

It’s a good idea to avoid any car that doesn’t have a title or a clear title. Some states require only a bill of sale, which is fine. Check with local DMV laws before buying. Titles that are not in the seller’s name are another obstacle that can take a long time and some money to sort out. Regardless of how nice the car looks or how emotional you feel toward the car, be sure the title is situated before handing over money. Match the VIN on the title to the car. It’s not that you shouldn’t trust anyone. Just don’t trust everyone. Look out for yourself.

This Starliner will not be...

This Starliner will not be an easy restoration. As you can see, it has panels, floors, and other items removed. Beyond that, what is intact isn’t correct. If you are going to take this car on, be sure you have the resources, time, money, and everything you need beyond confidence. There will be a lot of metal fabrication here.

Even when you have the car and title in your possession, the title needs to be transferred into your name at the time of purchase. Having the title alone isn’t enough. In some states it’s illegal to carry an open title. An open title is one that the seller has signed over to the purchaser but that the purchaser keeps in the prior owner’s name. This is a bad idea for the seller and the buyer. You don’t want to be into your restoration and find that there was a lien or an issue with that title. Or even worse, what if the prior seller claims he or she didn’t sell the car to you after work has begun? All of your work and money could potentially be taken from you. This probably wouldn’t happen but it always pays to protect yourself legally. Transfer the title into your name.

Rust

Avoiding rust saves lots of money and time, unless you specialize in or enjoy rust repair. There are different levels of rust. Surface rust, minor rust, and even isolated rust (such as on a floor) aren’t the end of the world. Panels are available, some New Old Stock items (NOS) and, in some cases, remanufactured. The times of rust-free junkyards are quickly going away. The 1960–1964 full-size Fords are full-framed, well-built cars. They don’t have the common rusty frame issue that later models do. Typically if you have a soft or rotten frame on one of these cars, the issues have spread well beyond the frame. The bones of a 1960–1964 full-size Ford are similar, so rust concerns are fairly universal. A common place for rust to show up is in the trunk. Look at the trunk floor, deck lid lips, hood lips, and rear body mounts. Interior floors are also a common place, especially in the front of the car. Inspect the cowl area to make sure nothing major is happening behind the dashboard or around the windshield area. Other areas are the bottoms of the front fenders and above the headlights on 1963s and 1964s.

In the desert you have...

In

Reviews for Full-Size Ford Restoration

[tommygon · Rating: 5 out of 5 stars]

I would definitely consider making this a part of my permanent library were I more interested in Ford trucks. I found I had to pry this book away from my 17-year-old son's fingers just to have it long enough to review! [Kleer] may have made a Ford convert out of him.

[unagog-1 · Rating: 5 out of 5 stars]

As a big ford fan, I loved this book. Even though I'm a Mustang (1968) owner, and this book would be for larger sedans with bigger engines, I got a lot out of this book. A lot of the information is so universal that the owner of any car would definitely get information from this book that they can use. I highly recommend it.

[bassocantor · Rating: 5 out of 5 stars]

Lots of Details, Lots of Color PhotosIf you are familiar with CarTech books, you will already know about the quality of this book. If you haven't ever purchased a CarTech book before, you are in a for a pleasant surprise.All of their books are top-quality in construction and detail. There are abundant color photos and charts throughout the book. This is not some cheap book.As just one example, page 89 has 4 detailed, color photos of the intake manifold. They include detailed close-ups showing how to bolt down the cover of the intake, and attention to the threading.

[dlc18 · Rating: 5 out of 5 stars]

I have read many books from Car Tech and this book does not disappoint at all. The intricacy of doing a restoration job is daunting however this book make it easier to understand the complex stance of it. Everything you need to know from the basic tools to the more serious job at hand. A start point to an end point, with a wide variety of photos.