Frommer's EasyGuide to New Orleans 2014

By Diana K. Schwam

Selling for a lower price than any similar guidebook, and deliberately limited to a short 256 pages, this EasyGuide is an exercise in creating easily-absorbed travel information. It emphasizes the authentic experiences in each destination:the most important attractions, the classic method of approaching a particular destination; the best choices for accommodations and meals; the best ways to maximize the enjoyment of your stay. Because it is "quick to read, light to carry", it is called an "EasyGuide", and reflects Arthur Frommer's lifetime of experience in presenting clear and concise travel advice.

• Language: English
• Publisher: FrommerMedia
• Release date: Jan 20, 2014
• ISBN: 9781628870435

Book preview

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THE BEST OF NEW ORLEANS

New Orleans should come with a warning label. No, no, not about hurricanes. Forget that. That’s like solely identifying Hawaii with erupting volcanoes. No, this is about the city itself. See, there’s this group of residents known as the never lefts. They are the people who come to New Orleans as tourists, and the city worked its magic on them.

They become spellbound by the beauty of the French Quarter and the Garden District, and marvel that history is alive right beneath their feet. They listen to music flowing from random doorways and street corners—jazz, Cajun, blues, whatever—and find themselves moving to a languorous rhythm. They kiss beneath flickering gas lamps, and groove to a brass band in a crowded club long past their usual bedtime. They eat sumptuous, indulgent meals, and scandalously indulge yet again hours later, with 3am beignets at Café du Monde, where they watch the passing human parade. They’ll catch the scent of jasmine and sweet olive (with a whiff of the Caribbean, and a garlic topnote, perhaps) wafting through the moist, honeyed air.

The air … aah the New Orleans air. People say romance is in the air here. It’s true, of course, because the air is dreamy. It’s the dewy ingénue who grows up fast in the first act, softly whispering your name. And if you’re meant to be together, you’ll feel that undeniable flutter, the high-voltage spark that says I’m in your heart forever.

That’s what happens to the never lefts. They came for Mardi Gras, for a festival, a conference, a tryst, a reunion—just came—and fell hard. New Orleans does that to people.

What is it about this place? Well for one thing, New Orleans is where centuries commingle, perhaps not effortlessly but nowhere more fruitfully, as if nothing essential has passed between them. It’s where a barstool or a park bench becomes the opening salvo in a conversation you may never forget—for raconteurship thrives here. It’s where a masquerade party of old masters, modernists, and bohemian street artists fill the city’s stunning mélange of museums and galleries. It’s in a state that actually has an official cocktail—which speaks volumes to its state of mind. It’s where gumbo—the savory Creole stew that is often (over) used in describing the city’s multicultural tableau—is actually an apt metaphor: It speaks of a place that’s deep and mysterious, rich with flavor and plenty spicy, and so much more than the sum of its many disparate parts.

New Orleans, the most unique city in the United States, works its charms like a spell. But don’t take our word for it. Go. See, hear, and taste for yourself. The best way to get inside New Orleans is to plunge right in. Don’t just go for the obvious. Sure, we’ve met people who never left Bourbon Street and had a terrific time, but the city has so much more to offer. Look over the advice that follows, and see if New Orleans finds you and works its seductive spell. See if you come to understand the never lefts. And maybe even become one.

THE most AUTHENTIC NEW ORLEANS EXPERIENCES

Do Festivals, Big or Small: Yes to Jazz Fest, Mardi Gras, or French Quarter Fest, but also the smaller fests in New Orleans and nearby towns. If one is on while you’re visiting, seek it out. Go to page.

Dress for Dinner: At better restaurants, men wear jackets—including seersucker when in season—and un-ironic hats. Women can and do wear dresses (LBDs and others) and heels. It’s required at the finest spots, optional but frequently done at the more moderate bistros (where jeans are also okay).

Frequent Dive Bars, if that’s your thang. For those whose thang it is, this town is siiick with good ones. Go to page.

Tour the Swamps: Don’t discount this because you think it’s too touristy (New Yorkers still go to Broadway, right?). It’s an absolutely authentic, historically and ecologically fascinating, unique-to-the-region experience. Go to page.

Ride a Bike: New Orleans is flat and compact, and you can see a lot on two wheels. Go to page for rentals and Go to page for tours.

Cheer the Saints: In the Dome, if possible—ain’t nothing like it, nowhere. Or at least from a barstool, like everyone else who ain’t in the Dome. Go to page.

Eat Take-out from Verti Marte: Traditionally done while leaning against a building or sitting on the curb (or on someone’s stoop, which we probably shouldn’t encourage). Go to page.

Argue about the Best Po’Boy: Which requires trying a few. Go to page.

Go to Church: Despite the reputation for decadence, this is a pretty pious city. Going to church is a wonderful way to get some faith on, hear some astounding gospel, and mingle with the welcoming locals. Go to page.

Check Out Concerts in the Parks: Free shows (with food and drink booths, natch) bring the locals to Armstrong Park across from the French Quarter (spring and fall Thusdays; www.pufap.org); City Park in Mid-City (spring–summer Thursdays); and Lafayette Square in the CBD (Wednesday at the Square; http://wednesdayatthesquare.com).

Stroll the Galleries: There are openings with wine and low-key revelry the first Saturday of each month on Julia Street and on second Saturdays on St. Claude Avenue (http://scadnola.com), but any time will do. Go to page.

Eat Indulgent, Unhurried, Fancy Lunches: Especially on Friday.

Chat: Discuss. Debate. Banter. In restaurants, bars, or shops. With people you’ve just met. I’ll give you topics: football, and city politics/ineptitude. Barring your expertise in those arenas, trading anecdotes about your observations as a tourist, discussing a recent meal, or asking for recommendations about your next meal (or other activity) gets the convo started.

Eat with Your Hands: Specifically, slurp oysters, best done standing at a bar and jiving with the shucker. Also, peel shrimp and crawfish, best taken to go and eaten outdoors (i.e., in Woldenberg Park in the French Quarter, or the Fly in Audubon Park). Bring drinks and plenty of napkins.

Join the Street Spontaneity: If a wailing trumpet catches your ear, follow the sound till you find it. If the swing band playing in the middle of Royal Street moves you, give your partner a whirl (and drop a few bucks in their hat). And if you’re lucky enough to happen upon a second-line parade passing by, don’t dare watch from the sidewalk. Jump in and high-step it down the street. It’s New Orleans—it’s what you do.

THE best PLACES TO EAT IN NEW ORLEANS

Best All-around Dining Experience You Can Have in New Orleans: No surprises here, they’re world-famous for good reason: Commander’s Palace, hands down. At the other end of the spectrum, Café du Monde. In the middle: Brigtsen’s.

Best Classic New Orleans Restaurant: Of the three old-line, fine-dining mainstays that have been enjoyed for generations (the others being Galatoire’s and Antoine’s;), Arnaud’s is our choice.

Best Contemporary Creole: We’re awfully fond of Coquette, Herbsaint, and the lovely Iris.

Best Contemporary Cajun: Pork-centric Cochon, where you won’t find yo mama’s Cajun, and K-Paul’s, the originator and still a standard-bearer.

Best Italian: Irene’s Cuisine represents New Orleans’s traditional Italian; Domenica is carrying the banner for contemporary Italian.

Best Neighborhood Restaurants: New Orleans tucks away some shockingly good restaurants on unassuming residential streets. Clancy’s, Elizabeth’s, Gautreau’s, and Liuzza’s by the Track show the range.

Best Neighbahood Restaurants: In contrast to those above, these are old-school neighbahood joints, where locals still ask, Hey, dahwlin’, wheah y’at? We’ve gotta go wit da Italian and Creole oldies at Mandina’s and Liuzza’s.

Most Innovative Restaurants: Root is the clear standout in this category, with Maurepas Foods right up there; on the high end, stalwart Stella! is still pushing boundaries.

Best Expense or Savings Account Blowouts: Restaurant R’evolution, Emeril’s, and August.

Best Bistro: Tough choice, given the richness of this category, but La Petite Grocery, Lilette, and Sylvain figure highly.

Best Outdoor Dining: The pretty courtyards at Bayona, Martinique, and Café Amelie are delightful on starry nights or balmy afternoons. And the balcony at Tableau.

Best for Kids: The no-brainers are Café du Monde, for powdered sugar mess and mania; the counter at Camellia Grill; and a snoball outing. American Sector fits the bill, and Antoine’s offers a good fine-dining introduction.

Best Slightly Offbest but Utterly New Orleans Restaurants: Definitely Jacque-Imo’s and Bacchanal. Cochon Butcher and the even fancier Upperline might fit the category.

Best Seafood: GW Fins sets a high bar; Peche and Borgne are strong contenders; Big Fisherman covers the boiled seafood angle.

Best Desserts: A meal at Emeril’s is incomplete without its banana cream pie; ditto Commander’s Palace’s bread pudding soufflé. Palace Café, Lilette, and Coquette excel at dessert. Or head to a specialist at Sucré or Angelo Brocato’s.

Best Brunch: Ralph’s on the Park or Dante’s Kitchen can’t miss. The jazz brunch at Antoine’s, Arnaud’s, and Commander’s Palace are also good fun.

Restaurants with the Best Cocktail Programs: This could be a very long list, but we’ll go with Kingfish, Iris, and Café Adelaide.

Best Wine Lists: The extensive collection at Emeril’s, Commander’s Palace, and Antoine’s cover every base. The lists at Bayona and Gautreau’s are smaller but well-curated.

Best for Late-Night Eats: Get 24-hour satisfaction at Clover Grill, Camellia Grill, and Verti Marte. For heartier, sit-down fare, La Boca and Root serve late. And there’s always beignets from Café du Monde.

THE best PLACES TO STAY IN NEW ORLEANS

Selecting one place to stay in New Orleans is a little like deciding on a scoop of ice cream—there are many tasty options to choose from, and different people like different flavors. But since you must choose, we’ve tried to narrow down some selections based on the following various criteria.

Best Moderately Priced Lodging: In general, you’ll get the biggest bang in the off-season (including the heat of summer), when even luxury properties drop their rates to levels that are hard to pass up. In the Central Business District, The Drury Inn is surprisingly reasonable and an easy hop to the Quarter. In the B&B category, the Chimes is a delightful family-owned guesthouse in the Garden District. The charming owners have been operating the B&B for more than 20 years, generating loyal return guests.

Best Luxury Hotel: At the Audubon Cottages, the luxury commences when your 24-hour butler greets you at the private, unmarked entrance. For sheer opulence, amenities, and vast expanses of room, our vote goes to the Windsor Court. Go for a suite, of course.

Best Service: All those in the Luxury category above excel in the service category. We’re also continually impressed by the attentive Loews. Of the most modest accommodations, the Campo family make you feel at home at the Villa Convento. Uptown, the Maison Perrier and Maison de Macarty in the Bywater both go over and above to ensure guest comfort.

Most Romantic: Romance is wherever you make it, but Ashtons encourages long, languid mornings. The pricy, private Audubon Cottages win for intimacy; and the sleek International House oozes pure sex appeal.

Best for Families: It’s not fancy, but we like the Homewood Suites for the spacious two-room suites, location, and freebie meals. The Richelieu and Maison Dupuy also offer easy comfort and swimming pools.

Best Faaabulous B&B: A lot of B&Bs are crammed with over-the-top antiques, but at the Antebellum, they all come with a story.

Best for Hipness: The innovative minimalist style, myriad comforts, and Loa Bar at the International House will fit the bill; while the elaborate Melrose Mansion is a Victorian mansion on the outside, but an oasis of upscale cool inside.

Best Funky Little Spot: We’re also fond of the sweetly oddball B&W Courtyards, the Frenchmen-adjacent Royal Street Inn, and the hodge-podgey but well-located Dauphine Orleans.

Best Hidden Gem: Just beyond the French Quarter and veiled behind high walls is an enchanting cluster of old plantation buildings, the stunning Jazz Quarters Bed & Breakfast. Hidden in Bywater is a friendly oasis called the B&W Courtyards.

THE best TRIP MEMENTOS

Nothing wrong with T-shirts, caps, Mardi Gras beads, and snow globes (except that you can get those anywhere). We offer some alternate ideas.

A Book from Faulkner House: Pick up some reading material from this charming jewel on little Pirate’s Alley, crammed with Louisiana-related tomes. Many an author has tried, with varying success, to capture New Orleans on the page. Their efforts may help you know what it means to miss New Orleans. Check out our favorite New Orleans–related fiction and nonfiction in chapter 3. For more on the Faulkner House.

A Photo or Art Book from A Gallery for Fine Photography: The owner calls his impressive shop the only museum where you can buy the art. A fine photograph from one of the many famous photographers represented here is a souvenir you can relish every day—not to mention a wise investment. If an original isn’t feasible, it also carries fine photo books. Go to page.

A Southern Scent from Hovè: This classic perfumery creates its own perfumes and soaps. We got hooked on sachet-favorite vetiver, described as smelling like the South. Locals also adore the scents made from the indigenous sweet olive, and the fine gentlemanly scents. Go to page.

A Razor from Aidan Gill: Manly and mannerly, the selection of hand-sculpted razors (and other accessories) will charm even the most diehard disposable dude and up his style quotient in a single stroke. Or just take home some smooth cheeks courtesy of an ultraluxe straight-razor shave. Go to page.

A CD from Louisiana Music Factory: New Orleans’s soundtrack is as essential to your experience as her sights and tastes. A few CDs will keep the good times rolling back at home. Check out our recorded-music recommendations in chapter 3; for details on the Louisiana Music Factory.

A Hat from Meyer: We’re mad about Meyer the Hatter, for the selection, the service, and the 100-year-plus history. You’re in the South, chère, you can rock some class headgear—and these hat whisperers know just how to top every head. Go to page.

A Be Nice or Leave Sign: Dr. Bob’s colorful, bottle-cap-edged signs may have proliferated around the city, but they’re still true, local works of folk art, handmade with found materials. Available in a variety of sizes, materials, and sentiments at Pop City, 940 Decatur St. 504/528-8559); Funrock’n, 3109 Magazine St. 504/895-4102); or at Bob’s Bywater studio, 3027 Chartres St. 504/945-2225), the latter open by chance or appointment.

Fleur-del-lis Jewelry: Gold, silver, glass, cufflink, nose ring, pendant: The selection is unending. Wear it with pride; give it with joy. Consider something from Mignon Faget or an inexpensive bauble from the flea-market stands at the French Market.

Sazerac Glasses: If you’ve taken a shine to the city’s official cocktail, the gift shop at the Roosevelt Hotel has perfect reproductions of their original glasses. Don’t forget a bottle of Sazerac rye from Martin Wine Cellar or Vieux Carré Wine and Spirits.

Pralines: The choice for office gifts. And for home. Maybe one for the plane or road trip. Go to page.

THE best OF OUTDOOR NEW ORLEANS

Yeaaahhh, we know—not exactly what you think of when you think Big Easy. No, it’s not Yellowstone, but there are some surprisingly wonderful outdoorsy things to do here that will only enhance the vacation you envisioned. Besides, it can’t all be about dark bars and decadent meals. Oh wait, it’s New Orleans. Yes, it can. Still … these experiences make a fine counterpoint, and you might see things you wouldn’t otherwise see.

Kayak Bayou St. John: A guided kayak tour of placid, pretty Bayou St. John is an entrancing way to see this historically significant waterway—and maybe work off a few bites of fried shrimp po’boy. Go to page.

Do City Park: Whatever your outdoor thing, it’s probably doable somewhere in the glorious, 1,300-acre City Park, from pedal-boating to picnicking, birding to bicycling, mini-golfing to art-gazing. It’s a great spot for a morning run; so is Audubon Park if you’re staying Uptown. Go to page.

Tour the Swamps: The swamps are spooky, serene, and fascinating. The gators are spellbinding, and the guides are knowledgeable naturalists who will open your eyes to every flora and fauna in this unique ecoculture. Go to page.

Ferry Cross the Mississippi: It’s not quite Huck Finn, but a brief cruise on the ferry to the historic Algiers neighborhood is an easy way to roll on the river and take in a different view. Go to page.

Take a Bicycle Tour: Whether you rent a bike or take a guided tour, seeing the flat, compact city via two wheels makes for a sweet ride. Or see it by Segway, on a tour with City Segway Tours 504/619-4162; http://neworleans.citysegwaytours.com).

Dine Alfresco: We didn’t say the best of active outdoor New Orleans, did we? A languid, courtyard dinner under the Southern stars (or lunch under an umbrella) at Bayona, Martinique, Café Amelie, Bacchanal, Green Goddess, or Tableau is an experience to be savored. Go to page.

Do Yoga in the Besthoff Sculpture Garden: In fact, we can’t think of a more sublime way to start a Saturday. Especially when it’s followed by beignets and coffee (just steps away at Morning Call café). A little yin, a little yang. Saturdays at 8am in City Park ( 504/456-5000).

Walk. Walk. And Walk Some More: This city is made for walking. It’s truly the best way to take in the captivating sights, appreciate the silken air, and ogle (or join) the goings-on you will undoubtedly encounter. We won’t bring up the c-word benefits. (Calories. Oops, drat … sorry).

THE best MUSEUMS IN NEW ORLEANS

New York, Chicago, Paris, Rome … great museum cities, all. New Orleans isn’t included in that list, but it’s a surprisingly excellent museum city. Museums also make stellar retreats when the elements become overbearing.

New Orleans African American Museum: Located in the historic Faubourg Tremé, the collection recounts the astounding historical and cultural contributions that emanated from this very neighborhood (and beyond). Go to page.

Backstreet Museum: To truly appreciate them, you really must see the Mardi Gras Indians’ astounding beaded suits up close (if not in action, then in this collection), and learn about this unique tradition. Go to page.

The Cabildo: An extensive recollection of Louisiana and New Orleans history, including terrific Mardi Gras exhibits. And Napoleon’s death mask. Go to page.

The Insectarium: Yes, it is what it sounds like. It’s especially good for families, but unexpectedly captivating even for the bug-averse. Go to page.

Louisiana Children’s Museum: There’s so much hands-on, interactive fun to be had here (for all ages) that you don’t even realize you’re also learning. Go to page.

New Orleans Museum of Art: Consistently well-curated exhibits and an excellent collection of all forms of fine art, housed in a stunning, neoclassical building in the heart of beautiful City Park. Go to page.

Ogden Museum of Southern Art: A splendid collection of the art of the American South, new and old, in a modern atrium nestled between two historic buildings. Go to page.

Pharmacy Museum: Leeches and opium and voodoo spells, oh my. A mightily worthwhile, off-the-wall diversion. Go to page.

The Presbytère: The excellent exhibit on hurricanes here captures their impact from all aspects; other rotating exhibits are consistently good. Go to page.

Southern Food and Beverage Museum: It’s no surprise that this museum recently moved to a much-expanded location, given the importance of food and drink to this area. A great diversion for anyone with an interest beyond the next meal. Go to page.

World War II Museum: It’s the best museum of its kind, and the world-class collection and interactive displays here are simply not to be missed, period. Go to page.

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SUGGESTED ITINERARIES

It’s easy to wander aimlessly through New Orleans with your eyes wide, your mouth agape, your hand holding someone else’s (or holding your Frommer’s guide …). It’s truly unlike any place in the United States, so nearly everything you happen upon will be new and wondrous. It’s equally easy to duck into a restaurant or watering hole, or take a meditative rest on a bench in Jackson Square or along the Mississippi River … and end up there for hours. Nothing wrong with that (we encourage it, in fact). But the city has some serious spots of interest, not to mention curious little nooks you probably shouldn’t miss. The following itineraries are designed to help you to navigate the city and make the most of your time in it. If you have the time, take our walking tours or sign up for a guided tour —see our recommendations for the best Go to page .

THE ICONIC QUARTER IN 1 DAY

You could spend days, weeks even, in the glorious, historic French Quarter, but even if you only have 1 day to explore, you can’t go wrong here. We’ve included all the requisite factors of a New Orleans visit: eating, walking, drinking, soaking in some history, eating more, music, and dancing. Tip: As you stroll the neighborhood, check out the building exteriors: apart from the ironwork (mostly slave-made, originally), they’re rather plain. The Creoles saved the embellishments for their indoor living quarters. Start: Along the riverfront at St. Louis St.

Hour 1: A Riverfront Stroll in Woldenberg Park

Rise with the riverboats, and take a walk along Woldenberg Park (the pedestrian walkway along the river) toward the Moonwalk overlooking Jackson Square. Stop to notice some of the curious public art installations and take in the sights of the vessels rounding the curving crescent in Ol’ Man River, much like they have for centuries.

Hour 2: Café du Monde

Downing a cup of chicory coffee and savoring beignets covered in powdered sugar is the ideal way to start a New Orleans day. Watch this city come to lazy life as carriage drivers line up across the street. If the line for a table is too long at Café du Monde, go around back, get your beignets to go, and walk across to Jackson Square to enjoy them from a park bench. Hint: Dark clothes and powdered beignets don’t mix. Go to page.

Hour 3: St. Louis Cathedral

It’s not the most inspiring ecclesiastical building, but it is the center of spiritual life for a town that is surprisingly devoutly Catholic (it’s always a shock to note how many foreheads bear ashes the day after Mardi Gras’ frantic antics). Legend has it that the serene garden in the back was a favorite haunt of good Catholic Marie Laveau—better known as the Voodoo Queen. Not even the infamous Pere Antoine, sent to New Orleans by the Office of the Inquisition, could convince Madame Laveau to forsake voodoo. The imposing statue of Jesus lost a thumb to Katrina; at night its stunning shadow is otherworldly. Go to page.

Hour 4: The Presbytère & The Cabildo

The former home of the priests who worked at St. Louis Cathedral has been turned into a museum housing a terrific "Living with Hurricanes" exhibit. It’s well worth an hour. If you still have time, the Cabildo museum (on the other side of St. Louis Cathedral) is where the Louisiana Purchase was signed. Its exhibits illustrate New Orleans and Louisiana history and culture, including Mardi Gras. Our favorite item? Napoleon Bonaparte’s death mask. Go to page.

Hour 5: Muffuletta at Central Grocery

Ya gotta do it. Gotta get a muffuletta from Central Grocery, whose version of the celebrated Italian sandwich—filled with olive salad and Italian cold cuts and cheese—is ginormous; half is more than enough for one person. Eat in the tiny tables in back or thread your way through the buildings across the street to chow down on the banks of the Mississippi.

Hour 6: Shops on Royal Street

Royal Street is lined with swanky antique, art, and clothing shops and has loads of antebellum eye candy, architecturally speaking. Be sure to browse the sublime and ridiculous collection at M.S. Rau, at 630 Royal; it welcomes gawkers. Royal is closed to vehicles from 11am to 4pm, and street performers dot each block.

Hour 7: Bourbon Street

Dusk is the best time to do Bourbon, when it’s not too tame and it’s not too rowdy. Sure, Bourbon Street is gaudy, loud, and sometimes even gross. But before the obnoxiousness sets in, when music pours out the doors and dancers and barmen hawk their wares, it’s also seductive and exhilarating. Everyone has to do it once; some do it often. Have a pre-dinner cocktail at Galatoire’s 33, the new classic on the street, or a legendary Hurricane on the always-lively patio at Pat O’Brien’s.

Hour 8: Bayona Restaurant

Food is an intensely important part of your time in New Orleans, and you must dine well, several times daily. For your iconic French Quarter dinner, try Bayona, Chef Susan Spicer’s iconic modern eatery, deservedly so.

Hour 9: Let the Good Times Roll

Nightlife is essential to your day. Do not miss Preservation Hall—it’s cheap, and it’s the real, traditional jazz McCoy. Late-night munchies? Head for Felix’s Restaurant & Oyster Bar for a dozen raw. Still going? Slink into swanky Irvin Mayfield’s Jazz Playhouse, where the city’s finest play. When you finally must, collapse in your bed. If you’re exhausted, full, and smiling, your day is done.

BEYOND THE QUARTER IN 1 DAY

You’ve had your day of exploring the Quarter. Now get out of the Quarter, get out of the Quarter, get out of the Quarter. Got it? Today you must explore New Orleans beyond the French Quarter, and we send you to the other side of the city for a completely different perspective. It’s a full day, packed with great stuff to see and do, but if you have limited time, just take the St. Charles streetcar ride, stroll through the Garden District, and visit the National World War II Museum. Start: St. Charles Streetcar line, Canal Street stop.

Hour 1: St. Charles Avenue Streetcar

Hop on the oldest continuously operating wooden streetcar in the country. Expect breezes through open windows, not air-conditioning, so doing this in the cool of the morning is a good idea. Admire the gorgeous homes and sprawling oaks along the way, and remember which side of the car you rode on so that you can sit on the other side for the ride back. (Tip: Get a JazzyPass, good for a full day of streetcar and bus transportation.) Go to page.

Hours 2–3: The Garden District

Aside from its historical significance, this neighborhood of fabulous houses and lush greenery is just plain beautiful. Contrast the plain exteriors of the French Quarter with these grand, ornamented American district spectacles. Follow our walking tour or take a guided tour from Historic New Orleans Tours. Start at the Garden District Book Shop, 2727 Prytania St. at Washington Ave.

Hour 4: Lafayette Cemetery No. 1

The little cities of the dead are part of the iconic landscape of New Orleans. This pretty cemetery catered to Uptown folks, and has more foliage and room than others. Notice the tombs with French or German writing, and the four matching mausoleums in the far left corner. They belong to four boyhood friends (one a Civil War vet) who once played together here. Like many of the city’s cemeteries, Lafayette 1 is in great need of maintenance and lacking funds to do so. Go to page.

Hour 5: Magazine Street Lunch Break

Two surefire lunch options are on nearby Magazine Street. For a cold beer and a very respectable roast beef po’boy, hit up Tracey’s, just 2 blocks away on 2604 Magazine St. Casamento’s, about a mile up at 4330 Magazine, is about as classic as an oyster bar gets, and theirs are sublime. A cab or the #11 bus will get you there. Call ahead to make sure they’ll be open.

Hour 6: Magazine Street Shopping

Use that JazzyPass to explore the fab boutiques, antiques, and galleries along Magazine Street. Even non-shoppers can enjoy the fascinating mix of upscale-downscale, old-meets-new here, and you’ll surely find better souvenirs than in the T-shirt shops of Bourbon Street. Use that JazzyPass to hop on and off the #11 (it runs about every 20 min.); cabs or feet also work.

Hour 7: Dinner at Coquette

We’re positively smitten with Coquette, a bistro about as perfect as they come, in an atmosphere as perfect as you could hope for. Go to page, and do make a reservation.

Hour 8: Frenchmen Street

Hit the dozen clubs and bars of Frenchmen Street in the Quarter-adjacent Faubourg Marigny. Wander, mingle, people-watch, heed the music pouring forth, and pick a club or two where you can work your mojo. Go to page.

CULTURE VULTURING IN 5 DAYS

A trip to New Orleans is not just about eating, drinking, dancing, and admiring fancy houses. The city and surrounds have a wealth of cultural offerings that put many other big cities to shame. The following 5-day itinerary lets you fill your cultural plate with a range of activities sure to enlighten, entertain, and educate. Each day involves one big cultural attraction, plus suggestions for nearby dining (and maybe another idea or two that we can’t resist planting)—leaving you to discover the city as it’s meant to be discovered, in serendipitous fashion. Start: Arrange for round-trip transportation from your hotel to a swamp tour. Go to page.

Day 1: Swamp Tour

We scoff at those who scoff at swamp tours because it’s too touristy. Because it’s not something you should miss. Everyone knows about the gators, and they’re cool enough. But the swamps themselves are mystical and otherworldly, and their ecological, cultural, and economic relevance is fascinating. Get an early start so you have time for afternoon activities. Dr. Wagner’s Honey Island Swamp Tour can arrange round-trip transportation from your hotel.

After watching gators chowing down on food unlikely to be part of their natural diet, you’re probably ready to do the same. Since you’re already out exploring farflung waterways, we’re sending you to Maurepas Foods in the Bywater, a popular, newer spot in this artsy neighborhood with creative (but not experimental), locally focused food and drink (at fair prices to boot).

Day 2: National World War II Museum

This remarkable historical jewel is sprawling and jam-packed with interest, but make sure to listen to some of the potent, personal oral histories. Veterans often volunteer—say thank you for us, please.

Have lunch at Cochon Butcher, a tiny, upscale Cajun-inflected deli 2 blocks from the museum. The cured meats stand out, but just about everything is stellar (we’ve never left without a side of their Brussels sprouts). If you liked the muffuletta from Central Grocery, you can do a comparison test here. It’s debatable, but Butcher’s might just be the best in town.

You could spend hours here, and you should. But you could also split your time appreciating the premier collection of Southern art in the country, traditional and modern, at the stylish, airy Ogden Museum of Southern Art, just a block away.

If you’re hanging around in the area come happy hour, stop in at the National World War II Museum’s American Sector. It’s kicky, American comfort food as prepared through the lens of noted Chef John Besh, with a cocktail program to match: The 3-to-6pm happy hour is one of the best in town (75¢ sliders!). It stays open after the museum closes; use the Magazine St. entrance (at Poeyfarre St.).

Day 3: City Park

The 1,300 acres here are full of nature’s glory and activities, from the Spanish moss–draped giant live oaks to the splendid New Orleans Museum of Art to the outstanding Sculpture Garden. If you have kids in tow, take a ride in a pedal boat in the lake or visit the kids’ amusement park and Storybook Land. The lush Botanical Gardens include the Train Gardens, a sort of melted Dr. Seuss replica of the city in miniature, complete with model trains (not to mention enormous lily pads). Go to page.

Just outside the main entrance to City Park is St. John’s Bayou, a former bustling canal turned scenic body of water, and the sight of the city’s origins. If you’re up for footwork, a stroll here is one of the lesser-known, more peaceful delights of the city. Or, point yourself down Esplanade Avenue and turn left on Lopez, where shivering-cold schooners of Abita and one of the city’s best gumbos awaits at Liuzza’s by the Track. Also get the garlic oyster po’boy. You’re welcome.

Day 4: River Road Plantation Homes

To see an altogether different, but vitally important, side of the city and its history, visit one or two of the plantation homes along River Road. You’ll need a car or tour company for this outing, a very worthwhile look at the pre–and post–Civil War eras, slavery, and Reconstruction. After this outing, make a bee-line for the French Quarter and hit up Acme Oyster House, home to some of the best bivalves around. Don’t neglect the charbroiled ones (gateway oysters for those who don’t do them raw), and get some boiled crawfish too, if it’s in season (Go to page).

Day 5: Commander’s Palace

Your iconic cultural event today is a grand dining adventure at Commander’s Palace. Choose a long, luxurious dinner or a languid, martini-laden lunch. It’s never rested on their laurels but continues to push Creole cuisine in new and exciting directions while honoring its origins. It’s fine dining done the New Orleans way: with fun. Later, check out who’s on at Tipitina’s or the Maple Leaf Bar, both pillars of stellar NOLA tuneage. This represents our perfect day in New Orleans: mixing high-society dining with down-and-dirty dancing (yes, you can wear your