LET THE GOOD TIMES ROLL ROAD TRIPPING THROUGH CAJUN COUNTRY

I’ve driven through 44 states; I’ve seen a lot of roadkill. Louisiana was the only state where I saw an alligator on the shoulder. It was also the only state where I ate alligator (a different one), jambalaya and boudin, and saw a tiger at a gas station.

Driving through southeastern Louisiana showed me that there’s more to the Pelican State than wetlands; however, the swamps and marshes are still a big part of the culture (and, surprisingly, less mosquito-infested than I’d expected).

But we weren’t in Louisiana to go swamping—we were there to eat. They say you are what you eat, and there’s no better way to find out exactly what you are than by getting off of the highway and sampling the local fare. I chose to head to Acadiana, or French Louisiana, where the state’s francophone population converges in a heady mix of food and music.

Zydeco and jazz float down from fern-lined balconies. Signs written in French, rare birds and improvised structures add to the vibe: the culture shock of driving through Acadiana really is like