Pedigree Dog Breeding - For Pleasure Or Profit

By Jocelyn Lucas

Originally published in 1925. The author was a well known breeder of sporting dogs and terriers. The well illustrated book contains many detailed chapters: Dog Breeding for Profit - Choosing a Breed - Kennel Management - Showing - The Stud Dog - Breeding - Mendelism - Pre-arranging the sex of puppies - Telegony and Pre-natal Influence - Influence of Sex in Breeding - Simple Remedies - Terrier Breeds - Gundog Breeds - Sporting and Hounds - Non Sporting and Toy Dogs - Where to Buy a Dog etc etc. Many of the earliest dog books, particularly those dating back to the 1900s and before, are now extremely scarce and increasingly expensive. Home Farm Books are republishing many of these classic works in affordable, high quality, modern editions, using the original text and artwork.

• Language: English
• Publisher: Read Books Ltd.
• Release date: Oct 25, 2011
• ISBN: 9781447494737

Book preview

DOG BREEDING FOR PROFIT.

They say that Experience is worth nothing unless you pay for it, but the less you pay for it the better. It is to save the reader needless loss, and to place practical knowledge at his or her disposition, that this book has been written.

When I first started breeding dogs, at the age of twenty-one, I thought I knew something about them. We had always had at least half a dozen of various breeds at home, and every terrier for miles around would follow me; but when it came to running a big kennel myself I found I had a lot to learn, and one is always learning.

No one should go in for dog breeding with the idea of making a fortune. There are exceptions. The late Mr. Winton Smith had a circular, or booklet, which began Since turning my hobby to account. He turned it to account so well that for the twenty years before the war he averaged £2,000 per annum nett profit, and made £3,000 one year; but he was a dealer in gun-dogs as well as a breeder.

Many people make a very good income from dogs, but if this is desired it is absolutely essential that besides knowledge and luck, the owner of the kennel must devote his whole time to the job. For this reason a partnership, if the right partner is found, is often best. Some people, in spite of the poetry on the front page, find the ideal partner in their wives; but one thing is certain, dog breeding, like farming, gives no leisure, unless a very able kennel manager is in charge, and that has to come off the profits!

The amount of correspondence is colossal (if any business is done), and nearly every big kennel finds it pays them to have a secretary. If the correspondence is neglected, sales must fall. If the secretary has any spare time, there are always pedigrees to be made out, accounts to be kept (Our Dogs publish a splendid kennel account book), advertisements to be written, and items of news to be inserted in the kennel columns, a form of advertisement that costs nothing and has a cumulative effect on the sales of the kennel in question.

I strongly advise the beginner to go to a good kennel as a pupil, if he possibly can, before launching out on his own in a big way; but it is quite useless to go to a bad kennel, as that would do more harm than good.

What I personally have written in this book is all experience that I have bought and paid for, and though I have had a great deal of fun hunting various packs of hounds, working my terriers, and shooting over my gun-dogs, yet to make up I have had to work at night till dropping from fatigue, and could rarely get away more than two days at a time.

It is quite easy to make a small kennel pay, but as soon as it gets bigger expenses mount up in a surprising way. At one time I was using a ton of dog biscuits a month, besides flesh and oatmeal!

It is wiser to look on dog breeding as a hobby that can be made to pay its way and more, so long as it is regarded as a hobby and not as a means of livelihood. I do not recommend anyone to chuck a job to go in for dogs, but by beginning with a couple of brood bitches, the neophyte can soon see how the land lies.

It takes years and lots of advertising to get a good connection; but, on the other hand, a young dog that wins at a championship show will always sell well and will make the name of a kennel. These are the plums that do not fall to everyone; but intelligent breeders who study the Mendelian theories, etc., and use their brains, are far more likely to succeed than the man with money, who thinks that mating a champion to a champion must breed a champion.

It is of little use going in for a breed like the Newfoundland; there is no money in them. I hope that a study of the various breed chapters will guide the novice, but it should be remembered that all specialists are naturally inclined to think that their particular breed is the only one that counts.

Few dog lovers can afford to keep a kennel unless they make it pay, and no breeder can improve or even maintain a standard of quality unless he breeds more than he needs and keeps the best. Therefore, a means of disposing of the surplus produce must be found. I hope that this book will make this easier.

ON CHOOSING YOUR BREED.

I have endeavoured to help potential breeders by omitting a number of breeds in which there is little chance of a kennel paying its way; but in the case of one or two of the other breeds, notably the Borzoi, the Dachshund, and the Poodle, specialist chapters have been omitted as they have not come to hand in time for press.

Some breeds, such as Alsatians and Golden Labradors, are at present extremely profitable; others, such as the dual purpose Cocker, are always in favour.

I have been very fortunate in getting assistance from such a number of well-known breeders, for, apart from the fact that they are specialists, knowing their breeds from A to Z, their articles are, without exception, extremely interesting.

Generally speaking, we may consider that big dogs cost more to keep, not only in food but because of the exercise necessary and the larger kennels required, and in certain big-boned breeds, such as the Irish wolf-hound and bulldog, special feeding to produce bone is necessary.

Large breeds should not be bred from at the first heat, so that this entails more expense in waiting another six months. On the other hand, they make up for this by having large litters, and a litter of fourteen puppies (reared perhaps single-handed, or perhaps with the aid of a foster) yields a quicker and larger return than a toy producing two or three, or a terrier producing an average of four or five at a time.

Large breeds are often difficult to keep in a town, particularly the more active breeds, whilst anyone with a small garden or even a backyard can breed toys.

Those who have some shooting, however small, will probably find it more profitable to breed sporting dogs, as if they once get a reputation for breeding good workers, an ever-ready market is there, and a delightful hobby can be made a source of profit.

Terriers do well anywhere, and there again if breeders will pay attention to their sporting qualities and intelligence, as well as appearance, better prices are obtainable.

A perusal of the various breed articles will be found both interesting and helpful, and I draw attention to two schools of thought. Mrs. Edmunds, in her Bloodhound article, discourses on the shape of the head, and Mrs. Quintin Dick’s views on the subject—set forth in her Labrador article—are also instructive. I need only add that in my opinion any breed which loses its intelligence and character through being bred to some particular show point is bound to lapse into oblivion, and rightly so. Field trials, sheepdog trials, coursing meetings, bloodhound meetings, are all excellent, and the more the movement spreads the better it is for both dogs and dog-lovers.

Toy dogs come into a different category. Nearly always in the case of the small breeds, at any rate, they are household pets, and thus their intelligence is always at work. Terriers should be encouraged to rat, or even to chase a rubber ball, as this develops the sporting instinct without which no true terrier is worth his salt.

Having made up your mind what breeds you prefer, go to a big show and look at the exhibitors. In some breeds the exhibitors are charming and a really nice lot of people, whilst one or two breeds seem to be taken up largely by people who, as the French have it, are not sympathique, to say the least of it. It is much nicer to show amongst nice people, as you will meet them again and again if you are going in for showing; so when in doubt as to your breed, bear that in mind, and thank me afterwards.

Finally, we should remember that dogs are friends and not machines to produce puppies or make money, and the better and more understandly they are treated, the more satisfactory will the results be to everybody. This would seem to be an unnecessary injunction. Unfortunately there are some so-called fanciers who find as much pleasure in taking their dogs for a walk as a greengrocer would if he took his cabbages for an airing. That sort of man should stick to chickens, or bees.

ON KENNELS.

The most important points to remember in designing kennels are that they should face the South, and that they should be dry, airy, and free from draughts. The occupants should not sleep on the ground, but on benches raised sufficiently high to be cleanly and wholesome, without being too far from the floor, for otherwise the dogs get underneath, unless boards are placed in front to prevent this. Benches should have a rail, two or three inches high, in front to keep the bedding from falling off.

The rough and ready method is to place a bench or box on four bricks, and this, though not smart, is effective. Perhaps the best and most inexpensive whelping kennel is a barrel placed on its side, with one end out, and balanced on four bricks. This has the advantage of keeping the puppies together in the centre, whereas in a flat box the weak ones are apt to be pushed into the cold. The open end can have a board across top and bottom to keep things snug, and a piece of sacking can hang from the top in cold weather and act as a curtain.

Of course, the ideal thing to do is to buy a range of Boulton & Paul kennels; but this is not within the reach of all. It has, however, this advantage. Kennels by a well-known firm such as this always fetch a good price secondhand, and they last for years. On the other hand, good kennels can be bought very reasonably from other makers; but it stands to reason that if the price be cut, the materials can hardly be of the same quality so far as finish and durability are concerned. Existing buildings partitioned off are perhaps the most economical method, where available, the partitions being sufficiently high to prevent the dogs seeing or getting at their neighbours.

I append an excellent article by Mrs. Williams, the well-known breeder of West Highland Terriers, giving her experiences in erecting kennels, keeping in view economy both at the time and in the future, and I think this will be found most instructive and helpful, as it is a problem affecting a host of others.

NOTES ON KENNELS.

By MRS. WILLIAMS.

In planning my kennels I kept three main factors in mind:

1st.—Dogs’ requirements.

2nd.—That kennels are self-run with only a boy’s help.

3rd.—Cost.

No. 1.—I divided into (a) Kennels; (b) Runs.

No. 2.—I aimed at any labour or time-saving ideas, both in erection and every-day use afterwards.

No. 3.—Cost was to be considered in each case very carefully.

KENNELS.

(a).—I wanted good-sized kennels, capable of housing two or three dogs each and large enough to stand up in, making for space economy in number housed and easy cleaning, good ventilation, and in wet weather allow one to dress or examine a dog under cover without taking him away to a table or indoors. The design must be such that I can add on to kennels with same pattern.

I collected and studied all the catalogues I could get hold of and found I did not like any of the ranges for small terriers on account of their size and cost. They might be excellent with a big kennel staff and in ideal situations.

I then looked at the ranges for bigger breeds, and was much attracted by a very general design of a range of four kennels for large terriers. On approaching one of the leading makers as to altering a range and dividing into six kennels and the cost of it, I was surprised, but delighted, to find the price was no greater per kennel than for the small terrier ranges.

For example, a small terrier range of four kennels, 12 ft. by 4 ft. by 5 ft. high front and 4 ft. high back, cost £12 12s.; or, per kennel, £3 3s.

The large terrier range of six kennels, 16 ft. by 5 ft. by 6 ft. high front and 5 ft. high back, cost £18 18s.; or, per kennel, £3 3s.

Exactly the same for, in my opinion, a very much superior article, and I think this is the cheapest kennelling of the kind to be had, and particulars of the range follow later.

THE AIREDALE TERRIER—CH. ANNESBORO JOY.

The property of the Hon. Lady de Courcy Wheler.

THE AIREDALE TERRIER—CH. MOORHEAD HER MAJESTY.

An International Champion, bred by Mr. R. C. Wade.

Photo taken at 7 months.

THE SCOTTISH TERRIER—LAINDON LAMPLIGHTER.

The property of Mr. H. R. B. Tweed.

THE DANDLE DINMONT TERRIER—CH. FRIERN DANDY.

The property of Mr. A. H. Lindsay.

THE DANDIE DINMONT—CHAMPION ALPINE RAIDER.

The property of Mr. Simpson Shaw.

THE SEALYHAM TERRIER—TORRE TOM COBLEIGH.

The property of Mrs. Tippett.

MRS. DOWNEY’S SEALYHAM TERRIER—CH. TINKER

A CUPBOARDFUL OF SEALYHAMS.

The property of Miss Verrall.

SEALTHAMS FOR SPORT.

The Author (left) and Mr. Sidney Villar with a team of the Author’s Dogs

Badger Digging at the residence of the Prime Minister. The team includes Ch. Cocktail.

RUNS.

(b) I lay so much stress on large runs for the following reasons:—

The time most people can devote to exercising is very little compared to what a dog wants.

In very many districts it is dangerous to let dogs loose to roam at large; some gamekeepers still shoot on sight any dog on their master’s land; there is also the risk of motors and poison.

In large, dry runs dogs can be out in the fresh air, play and enjoy themselves, and get a lot of exercise without their master or anyone being with them.

It is an easy matter for anyone, servant or child, to let the dogs out of kennels, or shut them up.

Runs, of course, foul pretty quickly if of grass, earth or similar material; and if they can be erected in pairs it is a great advantage, as one can sweeten and grass over while the other is in use. A good walk in fields or road, night and morning, helps very considerably to keep runs from fouling. Dogs should have planks in runs to sit on, and puppies small boxes so they can get into them and shelter from cold winds.

Many excellent types of railings are made, but the cost is too high for the majority of breeders. I found one can get sheep-netting in various meshes, heights and gauges, the price of which is very reasonable. For puppies, English galvanised wire is excellent. Some of the benefits of wire are: its cheapness compared to iron railings, sheet zinc, etc.; easy to handle, and can be removed and packed into very small space. It is also simple to sink it in the ground to prevent dogs or puppies scratching underneath it. The wire should be stretched on posts and battens. This is not an expensive item in the country. For hanging gates, oak, or other seasoned posts, are essential. These can be had for 1/- to 2/- from a sawmill—the rough sawn outside strips of tree trunks, but they must have one flat side and need not be sawn on four sides. For corner posts, stout green posts, tarred at the bottom, are all that are required; and for intermediate posts (every six feet) strong field bean stakes, tarred at bottom, are quite firm. They cost 8/- to 10/- a hundred.

Battens from post to post for sheep-netting should be 2 ins. by 1 in., and costs three farthings a foot in small quantities; and for smaller lighter wire 1 1/2 ins. by 3/4 in. is strong enough, costing from halfpenny to three farthings a foot. Battens should be unplaned and creosoted several times, and post and battens must be fixed in position before wire is unrolled. Wire is held with small staples and either wooden or iron pegs at the bottom, if not dug in.

Ash paths can be made in runs as the supply comes from house fires, and in front of kennels stamped ashes the length of the range and six feet wide. Brick, asphalt, or concrete, is better if the cost is not objected to.

In puppy runs, good strong boot cases, or similar boxes about 5 ft. by 4 ft. by 3 ft. high, boarded in front, with wide door for cleaning, and roof felted, are sufficient and inexpensive way of housing six-month old pups in summer time or mild weather, but in winter or for younger pups something more substantial and warmer is necessary if pups sleep out. On damp ground cases should, of course, be raised from ground on bricks or wooden blocks.

In the making of gates, puppy boxes, and erection of runs, no great skill is required, and the whole of this was carried out without outside help in my case. All the materials were bought piecemeal locally, and a saving could have been effected had I known all my requirements at the start and bought from a big firm.

SPECIFICATION AND COST.

KENNELS.

Six kennels, 2 ft. 8 ins. wide, each having a portable sleeping bench 18 ins., raised 6 ins. from floor.

Roof and floor, 1 in. boards; rest, 3/4 in. tongued matching, made on 2 in. by 2 in. framing.

Double doors, top one with glass panel (inside grid door is an extra) and ventilator panel over each door.

The whole is made in sections, bolted together, and should be erected on two bearers running from end to end and 4 ins. by 3 ins. thick (these were given me gratis) if on grass or damp earth.

The makers dress it in preservative, and I find it a good plan to tar bottom side of floor and the bearers.

Useful extra is having roof felted—it should be battened to roof, NOT only nailed; also 4 in. high boards slotted in front end of each kennel to stop peat, saw-dust, etc., falling out when door opens—easily made.

Catches to hold top and bottom doors open should also be fitted to save hinges.

RUNS—ADULT DOGS.

PUPPIES.

If puppy runs are made to adjoin the front or side of the large runs an appreciable amount of work and cost, in posting and battens, will be saved.

SUMMARY.

In criticising the above, I should say that Mrs. Williams is lucky with her dogs. I have tried wire runs and always found at least one dog who would gnaw a hole through the netting. It is all right for puppies, but no good for adults if they are left unattended for any period. Wire-netting that is buried to prevent digging should always be turned inwards after going six or more inches down. If merely buried straight they dig underneath; if turned inwards, they give it up.

Far better than wire-netting for adult dogs is Penfold or similar netting, which is no more expensive and cannot be bitten through, besides which it lasts more or less indefinitely and is smart in appearance. It has not been on the market many years, or I should always have used it myself. If wire netting is used it should be the strongest possible.

Then again, by putting all one’s kennels together, if any disease breaks out, such as distemper, it is a moral certainty that all get it. An isolation hospital is essential.

I always like to have some protection from the wind with these sort of runs, and a wooden or galvanised-iron screen to break this, even if only a foot or eighteen inches high, is useful.

The ideal kennel must contain a shed for storing meat, etc., with meat hooks in the roof for flesh, and a place to cook. One cannot boil horse-flesh, etc., in the house! A Parish’s cooker should be used and kept out of doors if necessary, or a portable copper if nothing else is available, but this requires more attention or the food may burn.

Then an isolation hospital, which may be another shed if necessary (portable sheds are surprisingly cheap), and a place for visiting bitches, etc.

An excellent form of kennel is the miniature loose box. A range of these is most attractive to the eye as well as being practical. Toy dogs require little space. A hut