Rucksack Guide - Mountaineering in Remote Areas of the World

By Alun Richardson

Rucksack Guide - Mountaineering in Remote Areas of the World is your essential handbook for planning and undertaking mountaineering expeditions around the world.

It offers concise guidance and support for whatever situations you might find yourself in, including:
- Where to go: tips on gaining sponsorship, permits and the best times to visit
- Dangerous animals: dealing with creatures that bite, sting or suck your blood
- Environmental issues: minimising your impact on the environment
- Safety: essential procedures to ensure the safety of yourself, your party and others on the mountain
- Emergencies: guidance on what to do in extreme situations

The book is colour-coded for easy reference and all information is presented in lists and tables, making it simple to understand in testing conditions.

The Rucksack Guide series is taken from Mountaineering: The essential skills for mountain walkers and climbers, the definitive handbook for hill walkers, climbers and mountaineers.

• Language: English
• Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing
• Release date: Mar 2, 2015
• ISBN: 9781408125977

Alun Richardson

Alun Richardson is an International Mountain Guide, the highest qualification for worldwide climbing, mountaineering and exploration. He is an experienced guide and tutor and regularly teaches at the National Mountaineering Centres, and internationally. He is also secretary of the British Mountain Guides Association.

Book preview

PLANNING

EXPEDITION STYLE

Fig. 1 Capsule style on Aconcagua, Argentinian Andes

TIME AND LOGISTICS

Note: This does not cover the possibilities for ski mountaineering.

See appendix for more information on where to go. Give yourself enough time – consider the following, which could all impact upon the trip:

• Bad weather, illness, flight delays, bureaucracy

• Organising paperwork, food, visits to agencies

• Time it takes to arrive at the destination country, to travel to the mountain, and to acclimatise.

BUILDING A TEAM

Expeditions can make or break friendships:

• Ensure that everyone agrees upon the objective and how to achieve it.

• Conduct warm-up trips to discover each other’s idiosyncracies.

• Be aware of the technical, psychological and physical demands of a remote expedition and how they might affect members.

The size of the team

The style of the expedition and the size of the mountain will dictate the team’s size.

• Larger team Increases safety, spreads fixed costs, allows a dynamic social mix, but can fragment when sharing equipment, food and tents.

• A small team of two Easier to manage and adaptable, but should someone fall ill the whole team must descend. Three or four people will not be much slower and increases safety.

Choosing a leader

All permit-granting bodies in the developing world require a leader. The leader is not necessarily the best climber, but usually has the most experience, and the ability to motivate the group and delegate well.

VISAS, PERMITS AND PERMISSIONS

The Expeditions Commission of the Union International Association Alpinism (UIAA) offers up-to-date information at www.theuiaa.org

Access to many mountain ranges is governed by regulations. You may need:

• To apply a year ahead for permits, since applications are usually processed through a multitude of government departments (see here). Don’t leave it too late!

• A national park permit or to pay a conservation fee.

• Special visas, rather than ordinary tourist visas alone.

• To take a liaison officer (LO).

• Permits for two-way radios, filming, helicopter rescue bonds, satellite telephones and guns and ammunition.

• To insure and equip staff.

GETTING THERE

This is often the most expensive part of your trip and the cheapest option is usually not the best; the return flight is fixed, you cannot change passenger’s names and it is costly to change dates and times.

MOUNTAIN ACCESS VIA HELICOPTERS/PLANES

• Private flights are usually charged hourly to the nearest tenth of an hour. Arrive on time, ready to go.

• Pick up another team or travel part-way by car to reduce costs.

• Beware of baggage allowances on small aeroplanes. Passengers are sometimes weighed.

• Allow enough time to sit and wait for the weather.

PERSONAL AND RESCUE INSURANCE

See www.dh.gov.uk, which states that travellers from the UK to most other European countries, including countries in the former Soviet Union, can get urgent medical treatment, either at reduced cost or – in some cases – for free. If you travel to the US, Canada, the Middle East, Asia, Africa and some other countries you will require private health insurance.

• Whatever reciprocal agreements exist it is essential to have adequate rescue and repatriation insurance.

• Always carry a copy of your insurance policy, and leave another copy with your agent or embassy.

• Have a contingency fund (e.g. credit card) to pay upfront for emergency evacuation.

• Contact your insurance company before any rescue (they may not pay if you have not called them first).

• Does your travel insurance cover everything you need? Baggage may be covered on your house insurance.

THE COST

Beer talks! Get a large deposit from members to ensure commitment. Consider the following costs:

• Equipment – personal, communal and for staff (porters, LOs etc)

• Transport, both to the country and within the country

• Getting equipment to the country or hiring it

• Hire of porters or pack animals

• Visas, peak fees and permits

• Food, fuel and tips

• Insurance and emergency funds.

Traveller’s cheques are often impossible to cash in remote places. Debit/credit cards are charged at official exchange rates that are high, especially in countries with high inflation. Take US dollars to exchange for local currency and several credit cards as back up.

GRANTS (see here)

Most grant-giving bodies require applications well in advance, ask you to provide referees and may even request an interview and a presentation. Do not expect grants to cover the cost of your whole trip.

SPONSORSHIP