Guatemala City, Antigua, Lake Atitlán & Guatemala's Central Highlands 2nd Ed.

By Shelagh McNally

Guatemala is a feast for explorers looking for new experiences. This fantastic guidebook takes you from fiery volcanoes to historic churches dating back to the 1600s. You can sail on Lake Atitlan, raft on Rio Candelera, hike to Maya ruins, dive a barrier

• Language: English
• Publisher: Hunter Publishing
• Release date: Jul 15, 2011
• ISBN: 9781556500428

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Guatemala City, Antigua, Lake Atitlán & Guatemala's Central Highlands

2nd Ed.

Shelagh McNally

HUNTER PUBLISHING, INC,

www.hunterpublishing.com

© 2012 Hunter Publishing, Inc.

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form, or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without the written permission of the publisher.

This guide focuses on recreational activities. As all such activities contain elements of risk, the publisher, author, affiliated individuals and companies disclaim responsibility for any injury, harm, or illness that may occur to anyone through, or by use of, the information in this book. Every effort was made to insure the accuracy of information in this book, but the publisher and author do not assume, and hereby disclaim, liability for any loss or damage caused by errors, omissions, misleading information or potential travel problems caused by this guide, even if such errors or omissions result from negligence, accident or any other cause.

It's always an adventure visiting Guatemala and there were quite a few people who helped me along the way. I can't name you all, but there are few that cannot be missed.

Elizabeth Maher and Tom Dunn kept my home fires burning while I went off exploring. My daughter, Shannon Tosic-McNally, provided some important translating while my mother, Lynne Colvey (an intrepid traveler even in her 70s) reminded me to keep my sense of humor and relax. Thanks to all of you for helping me keep it together.

I'm grateful to the wonderful people of Guatemala for their continued kindness and generosity in sharing their country. They inspire me.

This book wouldn't have been as well put together without the tireless patience and dedication of my editor Kim André. Always a pleasure working with you, Kim.

Dedication

To Guadalupe. Where would I be without your advice?

About the Author

Shelagh McNally is a Canadian writer who has been visiting Latin America since the mid 1970s. She lived in Mexico from 1997-2002, where she began exploring Guatemala while working as a writer for Mundo Maya magazine and other travel publications. She's visited over 35 Maya ruins and still misses the view from atop the pyramids. Her primary residence these days is Montreal, Canada, where she works as an environmental journalist and travel writer. Her Spanish is still terrible.

Introduction 

HISTORY 

MUNDO MAYA 

COLONIAL TIMES 

INDEPENDENCE 

LAYING THE FOUNDATION FOR WAR 

THE SCORCHED EARTH 

HOPE FOR PEACE 

GEOGRAPHY & LAND 

BORDERS 

REGIONS 

CENTRAL HIGHLANDS 

LOS ALTOS 

NORTHERN HIGHLANDS 

EL PETEN 

IZABAL 

EASTERN PLAINS 

PACIFIC COAST 

PARKS & RESERVES 

FLORA & FAUNA 

PLANTS 

FORESTS 

CROPS 

WILDLIFE 

INSECTS 

BIRDS 

GOVERNMENT & ECONOMY 

POLITICS 

ECONOMY 

THE PEOPLE 

CULTURAL GROUPS & RELIGION 

LANGUAGE 

FOOD 

DRINKS 

Travel Information

When To Go

Climate

Seasonal Concerns

Holidays & Festivals

Measurements

Money

Documents

Getting Here

Getting Around

Staying in Touch

Accommodations

Personal Safety

Travel Warnings

Staying Healthy

Serious Ailments

Top 20 Attractions

Guatemala City 

HISTORY 

GETTING HERE & GETTING AROUND 

ADVENTURES ON FOOT/SIGHTSEEING 

WHERE TO STAY 

WHERE TO EAT 

NIGHTLIFE 

DAY-TRIPS 

Central Highlands - The Gringo Trail 

Department of Sacatepéquez 

LA ANTIGUA 

HISTORY

GETTING HERE & GETTING AROUND 

SPANISH LANGUAGE EDUCATION 

SIGHTSEEING 

ADVENTURES ON FOOT 

ADVENTURES ON HORSEBACK  

ADVENTURES ON WHEELS  

DAY & OVERNIGHT TRIPS  

WHERE TO STAY 

WHERE TO EAT 

NIGHTLIFE 

Department of Chimaltenango 

HISTORY 

SAN ANDRES ITZAPA 

SAN JUAN COMALAPA 

TECPAN 

MAYA RUINS 

Department of Sololá 

GETTING HERE & GETTING AROUND 

SOLOLÁ 

PANAJACHEL 

VILLAGES OF LAKE ATITLÁN 

Eastern Lake Atitlán 

SANTA CATARINA PALOPO 

SAN ANTONIO PALOPÁ

SAN LUCAS TOLIMAN 

Western Lake Atitlán 

SANTA CRUZ LA LAGUNA 

JABALITO 

SAN MARCOS LA LAGUNA 

SAN JUAN LA LAGUNA 

SAN PEDRO LA LAGUNA 

SANTIAGO ATITLAN 

Appendix 

INFORMATION SOURCES 

CONSERVATION ORGANIZATIONS 

ECO-TOURISM AGENCIES 

EMBASSIES 

EMERGENCY PHONE NUMBERS 

TRAVEL AGENCIES 

VOLUNTEER OPPORTUNITIES 

WEBSITE DIRECTORY 

BOOKS/MAGAZINES/NEWSPAPERS 

GENERAL INFORMATION 

HEALTH SERVICES 

HUMAN RIGHTS ISSUE & NEWS 

DESTINATION-SPECIFIC WEBSITES 

SPANISH LANGUAGE 

RECOMMENDED READING 

SPANISH GLOSSARY 

Introduction 

G uatemala is the heart of the Maya world and it is mysterious, compelling, magical and tragic all at once. Layers of history envelop this country like a patchwork quilt. There are enigmatic Maya ruins alongside grandiose cathedrals built by the Conquistadors. The diversity of the landscapes is astonishing. In a matter of hours you can go from a windswept mountain peak to steamy mangroves by tropical waters. But the real reason we come to Guatemala is for the Maya people. In this age of anonymous, mass-produced culture, they are unique. The Maya have held onto their language, culture and traditions against an onslaught from the Western world that began with Conquistadors and continues with the United States. Their lasting powers are seen in the enigmatic Maya ruins, centuries old, that are found alongside grandiose cathedrals built by the Conquistadors. 

Guatemala offers incredible adventures, not only with the nature but also with the Maya themselves. Coming here changes you  exactly what adventure travel is all about. 

Lake Atitlán

HISTORY 

Guatemala has been settled for thousands of years. Throughout the centuries there have been many battles fought over land and power. Unfortunately, little of the fighting has helped the people of Guatemala, who are still waiting for a more democratic society. In order to understand Guatemala today, you must know its history. Once you understand how much the people have gone through, you can appreciate their courage and admire and still celebrate life.

MUNDO MAYA 

The Olmecs were the very first to arrive and are considered the forefathers of the Maya. Remnants of their cities and monuments are found scattered throughout the Pacific region and date back to 3000 BC. Little is known about the Olmecs, and most of the information about them comes from Veracruz, Mexico, where many of their sculptures and ruins are found. The Olmec civilization peaked around 2500 BC. As it began its decline, the Maya emerged, eventually developing into one of the most advanced civilizations in the ancient world. While most of Europe was still squatting in caves, the Maya were building grand temples and pyramids. 

The Preclassic period began in 1500 BC with the construction of several sites located in Belize and northern Guatemala. By 700 BC, the Maya had advanced enough to develop writing and a hieroglyphic language. They began recording dates and experimenting with mathematics as well. Around 400 BC they made another giant leap forward with their development of the concept of zero. They used this discovery to create their calendar system and develop astronomy using highly evolved mathematics. The Maya calendar system remains the most accurate calendar created by man and was far more precise than the Gregorian calendar used by modern man. Some of their astronomical calculations rival those made at NASA. By 300 BC, the Maya society had created the concept of the king and a hierarchy emerged. The cities of Kaminal Juyú, Abaj Takalik and El Mirador were built up and extensive trade routes grew between them. During this time, the Maya calendar was perfected even further and sophisticated architectural styles were developed. 

Calendar date drawn by Maya scholar, SG Morley

In AD 200 the Classic period began. This was a golden era that saw many cities built and filled with monumental sculptures and magnificent temples. Smaller cities, such as Tikal, blossomed into major forces throughout the Maya world. Other cities  such as Yaxchilán, Dos Pilas, Ceibal, Piedras Negras, Uaxactún, Yaxhá and Naranjo  were built up during this time with their famous stelae and temples. They became part of the network of kingdoms throughout Guatemala. By AD 500, Tikal controlled most of these cities, along with the trade routes extending up into the northern Yucatán Peninsula in Mexico and as far south as El Salvador. Society became even more structured, with an elite competing for a chance to rule. Not only did the king constantly have to prove his right to the throne, he also had to show how he was directly descended from the gods. Monumental art, using limestone carved with hieroglyphics and portraits of the kings, were their main form of propaganda. The elaborate details of their victories have become our best source of information about the Maya. 

Tikal's Temple I

From AD 705 and well into the Terminal Classic period (AD 900-1400), the whole area was plagued by war. One theory is that these prolonged wars were brought about by the necessity of the king to prove his worthiness in battle and to conquer neighboring cities. In AD 800, the Toltecs from northern Mexico began invading the Maya world and there were more battles to be fought. By AD 950, long-standing alliances and trade routes had begun to break down and, by AD 976, the Classic period was over; many of the great cities were abandoned. 

No one knows what caused the collapse of this great civilization and it remains one of the greatest mysteries surrounding the Maya. But the Maya did not completely disappear. There were pockets of tribes that continued building cities, albeit on a much smaller scale. In AD 1200, the northern Itzá tribe, escaping war in the Yucatán, fled south to create their kingdom of Noh-Petén (now Flores) on the island of Chal Tun Ha (Lake Péten). At the same time the Kingdom of Petexbatún , farther west, was also building up its cities. But these kingdoms eventually fell and, by AD 1470, only the Northern Highland tribes were flourishing. The Cakchiquel Maya developed their capital city of Ixmiche and began conquering the surrounding tribes. They were soon at war with the Quiche and eventually became their slaves. The Quiche developed their capital, K'umarcaaj, and controlled the area until the Conquistadors appeared in 1524. 

COLONIAL TIMES 

Although the Spanish arrived in Central America as early as 1501, they did not visit Guatemala until 1523 when Hernán Cortés sent his lieutenant, Pedro de Alvarado , to conquer Guatemala. Alvarado had a reputation as a brilliant but vicious solider, and it did not take him long to bring the feuding Maya tribes under his control. 

Pedro de Alvarado

After landing on the Pacific coast, he gradually headed north to what is now Quetzaltenango, leaving a trail of death and destruction along the way. He named this newly conquered land the Kingdom of Guatemala; it extended as far north as Chiapas, Mexico and south to Panama. Alvarado founded Santiago de Caballeros de Guatemala , the first Conquistador capital, near Ixmiche. This city became his base as he conquered the rest of Central America, Peru and Ecuador. He moved Santiago Antigua to the Panchoy Valley near the foot of Volcán Agua in 1541. Shortly afterwards, he was killed in a battle in Mexico, in an area now known as Guadalajara. Alvarado's wife, Dona Beatriz de la Cueva, took over as the first (and only) female governor of Guatemala. She was in office only a few weeks before being killed in the earthquake and subsequent mudslide that destroyed Antigua Viejo. 

The army of soldiers and monks that Alvarado and his wife left behind continued to conquer the country. As part of their campaign to convert the Maya to Christianity, the Franciscan and Dominican monks built churches, cathedrals and convents in every region, often using the rubble from the Maya temples destroyed by Alvarado. By 1650, European disease or guns had killed 85% of the Maya. Those who survived were enslaved and forced to work on Conquistador farms. A small portion escaped to the mountains. 

When it was determined that no gold or silver would be found, Spain lost interest in Guatemala and, by the late 1700s, it was almost completely ignored. This did not mean that Spain relinquished its hold, though. It insisted that all of Guatemala's tobacco, indigo, cotton, cacao and cochineal dye be sent directly to Spain and did not allow Guatemala to trade with any other country. This economic bias created a wealthy merchant class centered in Antigua; the rest of the country was populated with poor farmers. Antigua grew into one of the most beautiful cities in Central America, while the rest of the country stagnated. 

The 1800s were marked by civil unrest. A rigid social hierarchy had formed, with the Spanish at the top, followed by Creoles (pure Spanish born in Guatemala), then Ladinos (Maya and Spanish heritage) and finally the Maya. The Spanish were considered a superior race and, as such, were given the best jobs, salaries, land and business opportunities. The Maya, considered to be just one step above beast of burden, were treated accordingly. Creoles and Ladinos were allowed only into certain professions and many became merchants,or shop or restaurant owners. They became increasingly resentful of Spain's stranglehold on economy and trade and joined forces to create a Liberal opposition, who fought against the power of the Church, Crown and wealthy landowners. 

Ruins of Antigua Cathedral

In 1773 a series of devastating earthquakes destroyed much of Antigua and the surrounding areas, delaying social reforms. For the next few years the focus was on rebuilding and recovery. In 1776, the capital was moved to its current location in Guatemala City. When the recovery was almost complete, another series of earthquakes hit in the early 1900s, sliding the country back into chaos. It would take another 20 years before any social reforms would be enacted. 

INDEPENDENCE 

On September 15, 1821, 12 of Guatemala's most prominent statesmen signed the Act of Independence of Central America. As soon as Spain released its hold, Guatemala was invaded by the Mexican dictator Agustán de Iturbide , who annexed it to his empire. However, the occupation lasted only a year and on June 24, 1823, Guatemala joined the Confederation of Central America as an independent nation. In celebration, there were sweeping reforms, including the end of slavery. But the coalition quickly dissolved into infighting between the countries. The end result was that Guatemala was still not independent, but became embroiled in the problems of the Confederation. 

In 1829, the liberal leader Francisco Morazán came into power promising autonomy for Guatemala. He began taking land away from the church and rural communities to hand over to private and foreign investors. He also made changes to the educational system and encouraged more Europeans to come to Guatemala by offering them land. His actions alienated the clergy, middle class and rural Maya who, in 1840, joined Rafaél Carrera in a successful guerilla war that brought down the oppressive federation and placed Carrera in office. In 1847, Guatemala formally declared itself a sovereign republic. Ironically, Carrera then ruled as a dictator until 1865. He quickly reversed many of Morazán's reforms, returning all the land back to the church and offering tax breaks to wealthy plantation owners. His successor, General Vicente Cerna , continued the conservative rule until the Liberal Revolution took place in 1871 and Justo Rufino Barrios was elected president. 

Justo Rufino Barrios

Barrios may have been called a Liberal, but he firmly supported the oligarchy of wealthy landowners by restructuring the economy to give even more land, money and tax breaks to those with coffee, cotton and sugar plantations. As the owner of a coffee plantation, he profited handsomely from his rules. Barrios also opened up the country to foreign investors and gave out vast tracts of land (taken from local Maya) to European immigrants. Barrios then passed a law requiring all Maya to give four years of work to state-appointed farms. He also made it illegal for any Maya to be out of work  a Maya without a job was considered a vagrant and could be immediately arrested and forced to work on the plantations as a virtual slave. 

When Barrio opened the doors to American investors, they swooped in with such ferocity that by 1901 the USA was the dominant economic force in Guatemala. The American-owned United Fruit Company became the largest landowner, employer and exporter in the country and was nicknamed El Pulpo because it had so many fingers in so many areas. The term banana republic was also coined to describe the politics of this destructive multinational corporation. Labor unions and workers began to voice their discontent, but their protest did not last long. In 1931 the ultra-right wing dictator General Jorge Ubico was elected. With financial backing from the United States, Ubico began a vicious campaign that suppressed all land reform movements, outlawed unions and disbanded agrarian organizations. Those supporting land reform went missing or were tortured into recanting their beliefs. 

LAYING THE FOUNDATION FOR WAR 

While the stockholders in the United Fruit Company got rich, the people of Guatemala were starving. By 1940 infant mortality had reached an all-time high. The middle class was angry over the limited access to education and health care. In 1944, a group of students and merchants forced Ubico out of office and brought Juan José Arevalo to power. Arevalo immediately overturned the vagrancy laws, introduced a minimum wage, legalized unions and put through a national health care system. It looked as if Guatemala was on its way to becoming a democracy. 

Arevalo was followed by Jacobo Arenz , who was elected in 1950 and immediately passed the Agarian Reform Law , requiring all companies to hand back any large tracts of uncultivated land for distribution among peasant farmers. The law was clearly aimed at the United Fruit Company. Feeling their profits were threatened, the United Fruit Company convinced the American Government that Guatemala was becoming communist. The States responded quickly by organizing a coup executed by the CIA. In 1954, the CIA ousted Arbenz from office and put into power a right wing dictator, Colonel Carlos Castillo Armas . With his US-funded army, Castillo Armas proceeded to arrest and torture over 9,000 Maya peasants, claiming they were communists and a threat to the state. 

Castillo Armas also repealed the Agrarian Reform Law, outlawed labor unions and reversed every other reform put in place by his communist predecessors. Wealthy landowners and multinational corporations flourished under his rule, while the ordinary citizen suffered immensely. For the next 32 years Guatemala was ruled by dictators equally as vicious as Castillo Armas. The rich became richer and the poor became more