Colorado Adventure Guide

By Curtis Casewit

San Juan National Forest, Aspen, Vail, Mesa Verde National Park, Sangre de Cristo Mountains, Denver, Boulder, Colorado Sorings, Telluride, Durango - plus all the smaller towns and attractions. Accommodations, restaurants, shopping for every budget. Plus h

• Language: English
• Publisher: Hunter Publishing
• Release date: Nov 2, 2009
• ISBN: 9781588430274

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Colorado Adventure Guide

Hunter Publishing, Inc.

www.hunterpublishing.com

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All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form, or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without the written permission of the publisher. 

This guide focuses on recreational activities. As all such activities contain elements of risk, the publisher, author, affiliated individuals and companies disclaim any responsibility for any injury, harm, or illness that may occur to anyone through, or by use of, the information in this book. Every effort was made to insure the accuracy of information in this book, but the publisher and author do not assume, and hereby disclaim, any liability or any loss or damage caused by errors, omissions, misleading information or potential travel problems caused by this guide, even if such errors or omissions result from negligence, accident or any other cause. 

Introduction 

Colorado offers a great concentration of adventurous things to do on a year-round basis. This enormous area includes several national parks, national monuments, tribal and state parks, national forests, wilderness areas, and millions of acres for hiking, biking, skiing, rafting, cycling, fishing, and much more. 

The state is bisected by the Rocky Mountains; much of the land area sits far above sea level. The abundance of rugged, virtually primeval terrain lends itself naturally to high adventure. 

The territory has also been preeminent among spiritual places to the native people. They were the first to live in the area and their ancient mysteries and modern presence are still evident today. 

If you really want to experience Colorado - the land, the people, the history, and the adventures - this book is for you. 

The nuts-and-bolts information you need to plan a trip is provided, as well as concise details on adventurous activities. Ride a horse, raft rapids, climb mountains, ski world-class resorts or cross-country to isolated huts, climb through ancient Indian ruins, go on a modern-day cattle drive or soar above it in a glider. From easy ventures to more challenging fare, there's enough to fill vacations for years; it's no surprise that many people return to Colorado again and again. 

This adventurous conception of Colorado extends into the metropolitan areas. The mile-high city of Denver, for instance, makes a good home base from which to enjoy an hour of parasailing or an afternoon of snowboarding followed by a great meal, theater, and a nightcap in a brew pub before retiring for the night. Just minutes from any one of Colorado's fascinating cities, nature's geology, flora and fauna are more likely to be on display than the work of man. For those adventurers not seeking to leave the civilized world completely behind, Colorado provides the perfect combination. You can navigate bike trails in the foothills or climb Boulder's Flatirons, all within easy reach of every conceivable amenity. From mild to wild, this book provides the specifics you need to create your own adventure. 

This state's many interesting towns will entertain and delight. In Boulder hippies and yuppies mingle. Add a few thousand college students and you have an eclectic mixture you won't soon forget. But it's probably the outdoors that brings everyone together. Hundreds of miles of trails have made Boulder a mountain biking mecca, while its wide-open fields and flowery meadows instill a sense of tranquility to all visitors. 

The sleepy Front Range town of Morrison, just minutes from urban Denver, comes alive when you sit and feel the fresh mountain air in its red-rock amphitheatre. Thousands of people converge on this world-renowned concert venue each year to hear their favorite symphonies, orchestras and rock bands play. Nature has created perfect acoustics - better than any an engineer could design, some say. The Red Rocks Theater is even perfect for famous opera singers like Jessye Norman, who sang here several years ago. Wagner has never sounded better. More commonly, rock and pop acts fill the mountain air with their reverberating tones. 

Red Rocks Amphitheatre

Colorado Springs, with its mighty Pikes Peak, waterfalls and rock formations, also offers the Broadmoor Resort, where you can enjoy every conceivable sport - even skeet shooting. Rock climbing in this area is exceptional. And the booming Colorado Springs Airport is an increasingly popular alternative to Denver International Airport to the north, for travelers seeking lower fares thanks to lower landing fees. 

Colorado Springs

Steamboat Springs caters to true cowboys (visit saddle stores here!) and excels in cross-country ski lessons and downhill racing classes. 

The record number of students attending the state university in Fort Collins attests to the fact that this community is no longer a cowtown. Lace up your hiking boots and find what Lory State Park has to offer. Read about Ouray, Silverton, and Telluride, which are known as the Switzerland of America. Discover jeep tours that set out into the state's most rugged terrain. Witness young snowboarding daredevils carve dramatic turns on the slopes of Beaver Creek or Vail, Beaver Creek's sister resort, where you can try an Olympic bobsled run. Although this curvy chute is harrowing, anyone with a few dollars can attempt to barrel down the course. 

And Colorado's Ski Country USA isn't just for skiing anymore; these areas are alive all summer. Copper Mountain and Winter Park have established themselves as centers for biking, while Breckenridge offers opportunities to shoot the rapids with any number of rafting companies. Look to Aspen to see who and what is in for the season. 

This once-isolated region has become incredibly popular in the last few years. It evokes visions of Indians and cowboys, snow-capped peaks, cattle drives, wild rivers, and long sunsets. Colorado has been kept a secret by those in the know. The wide-open spaces beneath clear skies have attracted lovers of the great outdoors for many years. 

History 

The ancient and now extinct Anasazi Indians who first settled this area probably descended from nomads coming across the Bering Land Bridge and down through Canada. Their skillfully constructed and mysteriously abandoned communities are now ruins that can be visited. 

The Spanish came upon Navajos and other modern tribes in the Southwest in the 16th century while searching for gold. Only in the last 150 years has the area experienced modern civilization. First came gold- , silver- , or copperminers, then ranchers, cowboys, and business people who created small towns - many of which stayed small. Most of the mines are closed now, but ranching and cowboy arts are still widely practiced on vast, open lands. The rugged contours of Western geography haven't changed much. Towns may be few and far between, but they're here. 

Colorado Today 

In today's rural Colorado the pickup truck is often the vehicle of choice for ranchers. Horses continue to serve cowboys who really do wear pointy-toed boots, broad-brimmed hats or, increasingly, baseball caps advertising farm equipment. Dusty jeans and shirts with pearl snaps - the stereotypical cowboy style - are a pervasive presence here. Except for ceremonial occasions, most Indians wear clothing that looks a lot like cowboy duds. The unlikely blending of three cultures - Indian, Hispanic, and Anglo - along with the remote setting has combined to produce a unique status quo. 

Accommodations range from campgrounds and dude ranches - which offer as much time on horseback as you can handle - to deluxe resorts. Dining in the boonies is still mostly unsophisticated. You can now find the odd restaurant serving grilled avocado and mango salsa, but even the better restaurants mostly stick with traditional meat and potatoes. Outside Colorado's big cities or developed resorts, corn dogs and chili, sloppy joes and salad bars continue to reign supreme. 

You may be content to gaze at night skies filled with stars, but there are stomping cowboy bars with free two-step lessons and genuine western bands to entertain you. You might even jump on an electric bull here and ride ‘em just as they do at Colorado's annual National Western Stock Show.  

Activities drawing from the terrain and extreme seasons attract the ski crowd in winter; bikers and river runners in spring; campers and hikers in summer; leaf peepers and hunters in fall. Some places, like Vail and Aspen, have been claimed by a young, dynamic, fun-loving crowd. Suntanned hikers and kayakers cruise along in expensive four-wheel-drives with bike or boat racks on the back. Cowboys and Indians ride the range on horseback or in battered pickups with gun racks. By contrast, places like Rocky Mountain National Park are quite serene. Bugling elk gather here during mating season; some have likened it to a religious experience. 

Bighorn sheep, Rocky Mountain National Park

Geography 

The land remains the dominant force here. Arid and sandy desertscapes characterize southern Colorado. Broad, arroyo-tracked flats stretch to the horizon, broken only by cacti, a rare mesquite tree, or prehistoric seabed rocks rising in wind- and water-carved majesty, seeming to defy gravity. Buttes and mesas, striped in iron-tinged red and orange, and mountains, usually snow-capped, looming beyond are here. 

You can go a long way without seeing another human being, but you probably won't get far without finding evidence of deer, elk, pica, ptarmigans, eagles, mountain goats, or hawks. Less frequently spotted are black bears, mountain lions, pronghorn antelope, and bighorn sheep. 

Elk, a resident of Estes Park

This country was created over eons by the geological forces of volcanoes, wind erosion, flowing water, and movements of tectonic plates inside the earth's crust. The results are displayed by improbably shaped land features, such as Sand Dunes National Monument in the south, the serpentine Dolores Canyon in the state's southwest, or the brooding Rocky Mountains, visible from virtually anywhere in the state, crowned by massive thunderheads. 

Water, though sometimes scarce, still shapes the land as it flows from melting snow of high mountains. The streams it forms nourish forests and rivers. Even in the deserts a turbulent, impetuous downpour can fill thirsty streambeds in a frightening instant. Flash floods can carry away homes, trees, and cars, then subside as rapidly as they appeared, leaving only a damp testimony to nature's dominance of the land. 

Colorado has managed to attract a long line of explorers and settlers. Deserted structures - once dwellings and now ruins or ghost towns - pepper the state and attest to ancient conflicts with drought, crop failures, and ensuing famine. Dusty trails may be all that remain of a once-productive grassland that was thoughtlessly overgrazed and is now desert. Sunbleached mine structures recall expended mineral resources and dreams. Humans are neophytes here in view of geologic forces that have created this country. 

Modern researchers believe that nomadic hunter-gatherers were predecessors of the Anasazi, presumed to be the area's first settlers 1,500 years ago. About this time the farming of beans and corn - which became dietary staples - provided the sustenance necessary for settlement in one area. Around 500 years later, another nomadic tribe of Athabascan migrants of Asian descent began its travel south through Canada. The earliest of these arrivals began filtering in 600 years ago - at just about the same time the Anasazi were abandoning their cities and disappearing into the sands of time. 

Over a span of some 1,000 years the Anasazi constructed incredible, unassailable cliff dwellings at Mesa Verde in southwest Colorado, sophisticated square and circular towers at Hovenweep on the Utah border, and innumerable hidden monuments. These cultures mysteriously vanished; no one is quite sure whether their demise was the result of drought and subsequent famine, warfare, or perhaps something else altogether. 

Anasazi Balcony House at Hovenweep

The largest community in southwestern Colorado is Durango. It has a range of accommodations, 50 or more restaurants, and the famous, coal-fired, steam-powered, narrow-gauge railroad that once carried miners to remote mines. Today it serves tourists, transporting riders through a mountain wilderness to the tiny, tenacious old mining town of Silverton. Silverton's mines are closed now, and it caters mainly to tourists. Either town offers easy access to surrounding national forests that provide attractive environments if you're looking to backpack, ride a bike or a horse, rock climb, or photograph wildlife. 

Pinyons and junipers yield to spruce and aspen as elevations increase north of Durango in the San Juan Range. Surprisingly, the weather here is remarkably mild year-round, despite copious snowfall at high elevations. The mountains are always cooler than the deserts, but usually comfortably so, especially in summer when days are warm. But the heat leaves with the sun and a blanket is essential for sleeping at night. 

Within Colorado's borders, 1,143 mountains rise to an altitude of at least 10,000 feet above sea level and 1,000 are over two miles high. With 53 often snow-crowned peaks towering above 14,000 feet, the state has more than six times the mountain area of Switzerland. Eleven national parks and national monuments, plus 32 state parks and state recreational areas, provide unsurpassed recreational opportunities to satisfy any outdoor appetite. Also, hundreds of thousands of acres of private land are available to Colorado adventurers who respect the rights of land owners. Seek permission first. 

Even if roads are periodically closed, winter travel is still possible in the Rockies, thanks to the many small air carriers that ferry skiers and other visitors in and out of the high country all year. In clear weather, the mountain views from a plane can be astounding. The Rockies stretch below, a jumbled mass of forests, crags, and snow-flecked peaks. The great expanse of Colorado, eighth in size among the states, and the vastness of its wilderness areas (national forests cover one-fifth of the state), are a magnet to adventurous travelers. 

Denver, the Mile-High City, is no wilderness area, yet it lays claim to 150 parks. 

Close to Denver, the Colorado Audubon Society leads trips in rural Clear Creek County, where ornithologists can walk for many miles, with binoculars and notebooks handy. The state has some 450 bird species, all within 300 miles of the capital. For the more aggressive adventure seeker, there is much more. For example, elite rock climbers from all over the world converge upon the spectacular Flatiron Range 30 miles northwest of Denver. 

Seasonal Adventures 

Other adventures may be dependent on the weather. A Colorado spring need not begin in March, as per calendar; it could arrive in April, even in early May at over 10,000 feet, or even later in the high narrow valleys of southwest Colorado's San Juan Range. Summit cornices are still snow-covered but the meadows are beginning to come alive. A lot of mud is around though, so do watch where you step. 

In late April the earliest pasqueflowers bloom west of Aspen; the sand lilies and mariposa lilies show their white heads in the valleys. Walk among the conifers and you'll notice the fresh yellow clusters. The Engleman spruce show new growth in blue. The rivers are in motion again, their churning waters irresistible to adventurous travelers in Sunrays and kayaks. 

Spring is usually a terrific time for late-season skiers seeking uncrowded slopes and bargains. Inhale deeply and snatch a few more runs before stashing away your skis. 

Once timid grass begins to sprout through the snow, the first bike racks appear, replacing ski racks on the fleets of sport utility vehicles that ply Colorado's roads and byways. Gliders appear over Colorado Springs and Denver. The first waterskiers, the first anglers, the first backpackers appear in the high regions. 

Colorado's state flower, the delicate columbine, spreads its petals like butterfly wings. Elk and deer gingerly approach to feed on crimson-hued shooting stars. In the cities, outdoor markets display their first geraniums, red as traffic lights, little boxes of begonias, sultanas and mums. In some ambitious Denverites' gardens the daffodils, crocus and hyacinths already make their appearance. 

The columbine

The rugged backcountry comes alive, too. There are areas that are as close to primal wilderness as you are likely to find in the lower 48 states. Turbulent whitewater rivers still churn from snow peaks in springtime. After an average winter with more than 300 inches of snow in the high country, rivers may run 40 feet above normal. Rafters float over rocks they would normally be floating under. Of course the rivers retreat, eventually hardening into blistered, parched lowlands under the unforgiving summer sun. 

Summer is the main tourist season in Colorado, followed by the ski crowd in winter. Caution: Skiing through waist-deep soft powder in the high, dry air on a typical sunny winter day may be addictive! The sun always comes out after a storm, so skiers sans jackets by noon are a common sight. 

The Nature Of Adventure 

In the last few years, adventure travel has come into its own. It is no longer considered only for daredevils seeking the classic hang-by-your-teeth adventure, although that sort of trip is surely available in abundance out here. You probably won't have to cheat death unless you choose to, but if you sample some of this book's activities, you may have a life-affirming experience. 

Inside this book you'll find extensive information on a range of activities, many of which will provide challenges relating to climate, altitude, remoteness, and physical fitness. Others may not be physically stressful, but confront your cultural perceptions. From easy-to-accomplish soft adventures, family and seniors' trips, to daredevil ventures that will really get your adrenalin pumping, you can find them here. There are activities you can pursue for an hour, a day, a week, or a month. Whatever your inclination may be, the payoff is in the remarkable regenerative power of a classic river trip, a cattle drive, an Indian ceremony, or an archaeological dig. Colorado offers thousands of miles of maintained trails for you to hike, bike, and ride on horseback. If you're a water lover, river trips in canoes, kayaks, and whitewater rafts are calling. There are evocative backroads to explore by jeep and mammoth vistas to gaze upon from the gondola of a hot-air balloon. You can visit historic and modern Indian and cowboy sites. You can travel by dogsled in winter, raft wild rivers in springtime, climb cool mountains in summer, and explore canyons and high desert in fall. 

How To Use This Book 

This book divides the state of Colorado into regions, beginning with the major gateway, Denver. You could, however, easily trace the same route from Colorado Springs, only 70 miles from Denver, and the state's other main air gateway. 

Each chapter starts with an introduction to the region. This gives information on climate, history and culture, along with the main sites and activities. It is followed by a short section called Getting Around, which outlines the main roads and transportation options as well as the general route the chapter will follow. Each region is then broken down into touring sections listed in the same order as they appear on the selected route. These sections provide information and useful contact numbers, such as chambers of commerce, regional United States Department of Agriculture Forest Service offices, Bureau of Land Management offices, National Park Service offices, and airline and rental car companies. 

After the general touring sections within each chapter, a separate section detailing specific Adventures within each region follows. These include options for independent travelers as well as those seeking guided tours. There are numerous activities to choose from, and many more limited only by your imagination. For example, you can experience an enjoyable hike on a listed bike trail, or bike on a jeep road. The following is a brief description of the range and nature of activities covered under the Adventures categories. 

Adventures

ON FOOT 

Whether you want to venture off on your own or with a guide, this category will show you where to go and how to do it. There are hundreds and hundreds of miles of hiking trails in Colorado. Some are strenuous, requiring specialized rock climbing skills and equipment, others are a walk in the park. It is impossible to list them all, but you will find a cross-section of the hikes for all levels of ability, from short walks over easy trails to multi-day routes through mazelike canyon networks. 

When hiking the backcountry, the more popular trails are usually well worn and marked, but it's still remarkably easy to get lost. Don't head out into the wilds on your own without some preparation. Figure out where you want to go, then consult the Forest Service, BLM, Park Service or local guides for up-to-date topographical maps and information. Discuss with them the difficulty of various trails and technical climbing skills or specialized equipment that may be required. Some adventures in this area can be easily accomplished, while others require special gear, permits, and expertise. If you're short on equipment or in doubt about your skills, seek help from the professionals before attempting a demanding adventure. If you question going it alone then you probably should not. Even if you know what you're doing there's no substitute for direct contact with people whose business is understanding the areas and activities you're pursuing. Numerous local contacts are provided in this book. The Forest Service suggests that all users of the backcountry remember the following: 

Take no chances. Assistance can take hours or days. 

Be aware of conditions. Varied terrain exposes you to hypothermia, dehydration, and lightning on exposed ridges. There can be snow fields in early summer. 

Start hiking early in the day - mornings are generally clear. Later in the afternoon you may encounter storms. An early start gives you time to get to your destination and set up camp in comfort. 

Travel with a companion. File a hiking plan with someone who is staying behind and check in with revisions so you can be found if something goes wrong. 

Be in shape. Don't push your limits. Allow time to acclimate to altitude. 

Always take fresh water with you, especially in the desert where heat can be deceiving and water may not be available. A gallon of water per person, per day is advised for summertime desert travel. 

Pack extra food just in case you're out longer than planned. 

ON HORSEBACK 

If you prefer not to be burdened with packs but want to travel into some of the most improbable terrain imaginable, try hiking with pack stock. Llamas are available through several operators. They're not strong enough to carry the weight of an adult, but they are prodigious hikers and can easily tote 100 pounds of food and equipment in spe cially designed packs. Other hiking trips with horses or mules to carry the gear are also available. 

Without weight restrictions imposed by the strength of your own back, you can experience deep backcountry with a case of beer or a few bottles of wine, an extra pair of shoes, and other heavy and awkward items. 

Harder on your bottom than your feet is horseback riding. Horses are still common out here and trips on well-trained, tractable mounts or high-spirited animals are easily arranged for an hour, a day, or overnight. A number of guest ranches and resorts offer horseback riding. These are listed under Accommodations. 

If you'd like to try your hand at being a cowhand, working ranches often accommodate guests who may participate in all ranch activities, such as herding and branding, actual cattle drives - moving a herd from one place to another over several days. Ten to 12 hours a day in the saddle, moving at a slow pace is hard work, but it is, for some, the ultimate Western adventure. 

ON WHEELS 

There are several short train trips offered in Colorado through scenic landscapes on historic rail lines. 

A jeep or other four-wheel-drive may sometimes be the only motorized vehicle able to negotiate the hundreds of miles of remote, minimal roads. Please stay on established roads and don't ruin the backcountry by carving your own route. 

It's not unusual to see an old-fashioned horse-drawn wagon lumbering down a road. What is unusual is that some of these operators will take you along for a ride. One fellow even builds authentic old-fashioned stagecoaches. He offers a variety of trips when the equipment isn't being used for a movie or commercial shoot. 

Mountain biking has really blossomed as a mainstream activity throughout the West. New high-tech bikes with 18, 21, or more speeds make it possible for just about anyone to negotiate some of the terrain. Mountain bikers move faster than hikers, and knobby tires can transport you into regions where motorized vehicles cannot go. 

Mountain biking in Winter Park

Throughout the region, the topography for biking is testing and picturesque. The assortment of logging roads, jeep routes, and single-track trails on public lands is immense, offering something for everyone, from paved bikeways to world-class backcountry excursions. 

It would be impossible to include all the great biking routes here. The selection offered in this book will suit all skills and abilities, along with information sources for further exploration. Suggested operators will generally handle the logistical arrangements that an independent rider would have to manage alone. Most guided tours provide a sag wagon if you can't make those last few miles. On a tour or on your own, every rider needs to carry extra food and water, a head lamp, maps, and rain gear. A helmet is essential. 

Local bike rental operators, repair shops, and tour resources are included throughout the text. Valuable sources of information are the experts in local bike shops who know the terrain. 

Although bike riding is generally supported in Colorado, continuing access to backcountry trails is partly dependent on the goodwill you and other outdoor folk engender. The International Mountain Biking Association has established rules of the trail to help preserve mountain bikers' trail rights: 

Ride on open trails only. Respect trail and road closures, private property, and requirements for permits and authorization. Federal and state wilderness areas are closed to cyclists and some park and forest trails are off-limits. 

Leave no trace. Don't ride on certain soils after a rain, when the ground will be marred. Never ride off the trail, skid your tires, or discard any object. Strive to pack out more than you pack in. 

Control your bicycle. Inattention for even a second can cause disaster. Excessive speed frightens and injures people, gives mountain biking a bad name, and results in trail closures. 

Always yield. Make your approach known well in advance to others using the trail. A friendly greeting is considerate and appreciated. Show respect when passing by slowing to walking speed or even stopping, especially in the presence of horses. Anticipate that other trail users may be around corners or in blind spots. 

Never spook animals. Give them extra room and time to adjust to you. Running livestock and disturbing wild animals is a serious offense. Leave ranch and farm gates as you find them, or as marked. 

Plan ahead. Know your equipment, your ability, and the area in which you are riding and prepare accordingly. 

Be self-sufficient at all times, keep your bike in good condition, carry repair kits and supplies for changes in weather. Keep trails open by setting an example of responsible cycling for all to see. 

As for the terrain, even routes classified as easy by locals may be strenuous for a flatlander. Most downhill trails will include some uphill stretches. Pay particular attention to your personal limits if you're on your own. 

ON WATER 

Around mid-May to mid-June rivers rise dramatically and the flows are at their highest, fastest and coldest. Sometimes by August things are pretty sluggish. It all depends on the winter snowfall, spring rains, and summer thunderstorms. 

At high or low water levels, an experienced hand is needed to negotiate the rivers. Unless you really know what you