Siena

By Emma Jones

Most visitors arriving from the hustle and crowds of busy Florence cannot help but fall under the charm of Siena's gracefully winding (and pedestrianized) medieval streets. Laid out on the slopes of three steep hills (the historical terzi or "thirds" of t

• Language: English
• Publisher: Hunter Publishing
• Release date: Dec 18, 2012
• ISBN: 9781556500909

Emma Jones

Emma Jones is founder and editor of Enterprise Nation, the home business website, and has started two businesses herself from home offices in London, Manchester and rural Shropshire. Following a career with an international accountancy firm, Emma started her first business at the age of 27 and successfully sold it just 15 months after launch. The home business website was launched in 2006, and has attracted a regular readership of more than 250,000 people and national press headlines. Emma has written for Enterprise Nation since its launch and also for the Financial Times, City AM and customer magazines, including for Orange, Microsoft, BT and Viking Direct. Emma is regularly called upon by the government to speak on the subject of home business and she advises Regional Development Agencies on how to encourage and support homeworking. She can be followed on @emmaljones.

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Travel Adventures - Siena

Emma Jones

© Hunter Publishing, Inc.

Introduction

This guide focusses on Siena primarily, though the Introduction covers the entire surrounding region. From Tuscany and its gentler sister Umbria come some of Italy's most photographed landscapes. This is the countryside of a thousand postcards, and the images they depict - pole-straight cypress trees, olive groves, fields full of vibrant sunflowers and luscious vines, bottle-green rolling hills and medieval villages perched on rocky spurs - are as much an attraction as the artistic heritage of Florence, Siena and Pisa. But while these cities can be overrun in the busy summer season, the surrounding countryside has more than enough un-trampled wilderness to break your walking shoes in.

The broad arc of the Apennine mountain range marks Tuscany's northern borders, sweeping east and south into Umbria. Inside its northern boundary, shining like snow above the beaches of the Versilia Coast, lie the jagged crests of the marble-veined Apuane Alps and the gentler greener slopes of the Garfagnana. Farther east, there are horse-riding trails aplenty in the thick, woody uplands of Mugello and the National Park of the Casentino Forests. To the south, Chianti and its rolling hills full of intoxicating vineyards reach down to Siena, where the breathtaking chain of fortified hill-towns can be seen at their most splendid.

Sun-lovers should head to the miles of beach on Tuscany's coast and its nearby offshore islands - the seven sisters of the Tuscan Archipelago. While Viareggio and Forte dei Marmi may be the trendiest of the seaside resorts, in Maremma to the south you'll find some of the wildest coastline in the country, its sandy dunes protected from the tourist scramble by a Regional Park of maquis, hills, dune and coastal pinewoods.

Landlocked Umbria, the green heart of Italy, may not completely match Tuscany's geological variation, but it comes close. This small, hilly and fairly untouched region occupying Italy's core (Narni is the country's geographical center) is crammed full of walking, rafting, caving, hang-gliding and climbing opportunities, not to mention a rich artistic and architectural heritage left over the centuries by Etruscans, Umbrians, Romans and then by scholarly monks.

Hikers seek out the Apennines, which in Umbria's eastern margins, become more rugged and soar to great heights in the savage peaks of the Monti Sibillini. Close by lie Piano Grande's prairie-like expanse, and the plush green of the Valnerina, home to the Marmore Falls (the highest in the country) and an eerie labyrinth of canyons cut out over centuries by the Nera River. Water sports are best at Lake Trasimeno, the largest body of water on the Italian peninsula.

History

Tuscany

The Etruscans

Remnants of prehistoric tribal settlements can be found throughout Tuscany, but it was the more advanced Etruscan civilization, making their mark from the first century BC, that has left a far larger mark in the region. Their very existence is steeped in mystery with scholars still in dispute about their exact roots. Some believe they arrived by sea from the Far East, some argue they came over land from northern Europe, while many believe they are descended from the so-called Pre-Italians of the Bronze Age. All are agreed, however, when it comes to their historical importance. The Etruscans formed the first consistent civilization in the area, and their growth can be traced from the original settlements around the Arno and Tiber rivers, to their later expansion up as far as the current region of Liguria to the north and down to Umbria and Lazio in the south.

Part of this steady progression was due to the Etruscan civilization's skills in construction and agriculture. They built an extensive network of roads throughout Tuscany and beyond; began to clear swamps and marshlands; set up trading networks; farmed and mined; and even headed out to sea. Add to this a legacy of exquisite art works, jewelry and surviving tombs and necropolises, and you can begin to understand what the archeologists and historians have written so excitedly about.

But you don't have to stick your head in dusty old books to enjoy the best of this intriguing civilization. Ancient Etruscan settlements such as Cortona, Arezzo, Fiesole (close to Florence), Chiusi and Volterra are still very much alive in Tuscany today and well within the visitor's reach thanks to Tuscany's extensive transport networks.

The Romans

Incursions by the Greeks, Gauls and Carthaginians heralded the beginning of the end of the glorious Etruscan civilization, but it was the might of Rome that placed the final nail in the Etruscan coffin at the beginning of the third century BC. They absorbed the Etruscan ruling class and bustling conurbations, founded their own rival cities - Lucca, Pisa, Siena and Florence, among others - and brought to Tuscany a long period of relative peace and increasing cultural and economic prosperity. This was an extensive period of construction and modernization - roads, aqueducts, drainage, villas, theaters and entire new settlements all appeared in the Romans' wake.

Roman rule lasted until the fifth century, when their crumbling authority finally disintegrated under a flurry of barbarian invasions. The barbarians (particularly the Goths) left the territory in a state of flux until the Longobards arrived in the sixth century, setting Lucca up as their capital and slowly extending their domination throughout Tuscany.

The Middle Ages

The Middle Ages brought Tuscany prosperity as the Via Francigena (the Francigena Road), which traverses it, became a popular pilgrimage route between France and Rome. In its wake, churches, taverns and towns sprang up, but also rivalry and bitter conflict as Guelph (siding with the Pope) and Ghibelline (siding with the Emperor and feudal rulers) diversions tore the countryside in apart. But, despite the constant battles, it was also a time of financial and artistic prosperity that saw the formation of the increasingly wealthy - but politically turbulent - Tuscan Communes of Pisa, Lucca, Siena, Arezzo and Florence.

Each of these powerful Communes had their time of domination and control: Pisa, the principal port, held power for a while; Siena took over thanks to its wealth from banking; and Lucca grew rich on silk and banking. But it was Florence that ultimately came out on top, thanks to commerce and