Vietnam: Hué, Danang & Hoi An
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Vietnam - Janet Arrowood
Introduction
Why visit this part of the world? It is relatively safe, untrammeled by tourists, and still gives a taste of the old
Southeast Asia and French Colonial empire. There are tremendous waterfalls, impressive rivers, huge lakes, wildlife, elephant rides, jungles, wonderful people, and fabulous food. The costs are a fraction of those at home
and the experience will last a lifetime. Once you've been, the region will call you back again and again. Adventure awaits.
Responsible Travel
As more people visit this beautiful and largely unspoiled region it is very important to be a responsible, environmentally aware traveler. True eco-tourism hasn't arrived here yet. Adventure and active travel are beginning to catch on, and even to boom in Vietnam and parts of Laos, but the infrastructure and services are lagging behind the expectations of many travelers. Remember, the people who live have to stay when we leave, and they live with the attitudes, damage, and goodwill we bring and leave behind. Please recycle your water bottles, pick up your trash, save water and electricity. Resources are scarce, precious, and expensive.
The Recent Past
For much of the past 150 years the region encompassing Laos, Vietnam, and Cambodia was referred to as French Indochina/Cochinchina. Indeed, the French occupation, stretching from about 1850 to the early 1950s, has left a mark on these three countries that adds to their cultural, historical, architectural, and gastronomic appeal. At the same time, they have been severely impacted by internal and external wars, the imposition of communism/socialism, and the absence, for many decades, of any sort of tourism.
It is only in the past 10-15 years that tourists have returned to discover the unique attractions and almost pristine beauty of the region. In fact, it has been mostly during the past five years that significant tourist infrastructure has been developed, with tourists returning in substantial numbers. For the first time in 30 years you can now fly directly into the region (Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City) on an American-flagged airline - United Airlines - as well as on many Asian and European carriers (Air France, Lufthansa, Singapore, Thai, among others).
Eco-tourism in the area is in its infancy, and cultural, adventure, and active travel only at the toddler stage. Still, changes are happening at a near-lightning pace, so you are in for a real treat. The people are warm and welcoming; the temples are spectacular; the museums are fascinating; the opportunities to explore and experience unique cultures are almost limitless; and the variety of action-packed and light adventure opportunities is boundless.
The area has been repeatedly invaded, influenced, or controlled by peoples from China, Thailand, France, the United States, Burma, India, and many other countries. Their influences can be readily seen in the art, language, customs, culture, and landscape of each country.
In recent years, communism/socialism (and a degree of isolationism) have been the prevailing cultural influence in Laos and Vietnam, but the hard-core versions that were initially imported are being softened to allow for free enterprise, foreign investment, and the blossoming of small businesses. In Cambodia there are still lingering effects of the Pol Pot regime, but things are changing and improving.
Although there are many superficial similarities between the three countries, each is really quite different. Within countries, different areas feel different, too.
The northern part of Vietnam has the longest history of communism/socialism, and it shows in subtle and not-so-subtle ways. The government's reach is long, but 30 fewer years of communist rule makes for a noticeable difference between the North and the South.
In Cambodia, the smaller towns feel more welcoming and less restrictive than does Phnom Penh, but the energy level in Phnom Penh is so much higher.
In Laos, the biggest distinction is between the city and village dwellers. As Vientiane grows, and the non-Governmental Organizations (NGOs) extend their influence, the laid-back atmosphere will continue to fade. For example, Vientiane (Laos) used to be a small backwater serving as a national capital, but the ASEAN (Association of Southeast Asian Nations) summit in November 2004 has started to change all that.
The Land
Vietnam is extremely rugged across most of its land area, except right along the coast, and even that area is far from flat. The exception is the Mekong Delta where it's flat, almost boggy in places, and hot.
Why Come Here?
There are many tried-and-true destinations such as Europe, or even the big, English-speaking countries of Asia you could visit. These places have the infrastructure to provide all the comforts of home, thousands of years of history, plenty of opportunities for active and adventure travel, and ease of access. But these same features
can be disadvantages. Why?
Comfort, convenience and familiarity come at a very high price. In recent years the dollar has hit all-time lows against European and some Asian currencies. Most things in the developed world are expensive and predictable. You see the same types of tourists over and over.
In Southeast Asia the sense of the new and unknown is still there. The dollar is still worth something. True adventure and ancient cultures are getting harder to find. The world is being overrun with CNN, BBC, DVDs, CDs, fancy electronic devices, and other modern conveniences.
The poorest house in the most southerly reaches of Laos may have a generator and a two-meter satellite dish, while a frightening number of children die before their fifth birthday and the local hospital is not much more than a shack with a few beds, fewer staff, poor sanitation, and almost no supplies.
At the same time, the people across Southeast Asia are warm and welcoming. They are becoming more experienced in dealing with western travelers and their needs and desires, the food is good, and prices are phenomenally low. You won't find many five-star hotels outside Hanoi and Saigon (HCMC, or Ho Chi Minh City), but there are lots of mom-and-pop places with air-conditioning, hot water, private bathrooms, satellite TV, decent beds, buffet breakfasts, and a genuinely welcoming attitude. You can travel amazingly cheaply and, with a few precautions, stay healthy, happy, involved, and active. And the scenery is spectacular.
What Can You Do Here?
For the Adventure-Seeker
Tubing or rafting on peaceful or raging rivers
Canoeing on historic lakes
Kayaking in the South China Sea
Hiking or trekking over gentle or rugged terrain for a day, a week, or a month
Snorkeling or scuba diving in near-pristine waters with fantastic fish and coral
Biking the length of Vietnam or Laos
Mountain biking virgin terrain
Riding an elephant
Cycling lazily around the Laotian Mekong Islands
Hot springs
Viewing some of the largest waterfalls in the world
Golfing in exotic locations
Power boating along the Mekong, or floating down it
Boating to almost untouched islands
Volunteering to help some of the poorest people in the world
Watching elephants being trained to haul teak logs and tourists
The Mekong Delta
For the Culture-Vulture
Visit temples, UNESCO World Heritage Sites, ancient monuments, and cities with remnants of Colonial history and architecture
Explore museums with remnants of cultures that are thousands of years old
Visit wats (temples) painted and gilded in fantastic colors
Watch the monks of all ages going about in saffron, red, and yellow robes
Stay in, and tour, exotic villas
Walk through ancient outdoor universities
Trek to hill tribe areas and see how much of the world lives, while collecting wonderful ethic art
Visit the former royal palaces
Wander through local and crafts markets
Shop until you drop
The list of activities and sights is nearly endless and constantly growing. By the time this book is out, you may be able to go parasailing, hang-gliding, water-skiing, and more. There are golf courses opening each year, and more museums being restored every year.
Eco-tourism is in its infancy, so your opportunities to see and help preserve some of world's last double- and triple-canopy jungle and old-growth mahogany and teak forests are out there. You can even golf in Vietnam (but bring your own clubs!) or mountain bike in Laos (but bring your own helmet!).
Although the focus of this guide is an active, outdoor-oriented trip with lots of cultural and shopping activities, if you have a bit more time and really want to see the country and make an impact, consider working as a volunteer. There's a section later devoted to these opportunities, and there are hundreds of organizations that can coordinate almost anything you want to do. Maybe you'll want to teach English, or help bring a water line into a remote village, or participate in an archeological dig. I have a friend who spent three weeks teaching English in the Mekong Delta and said it was the most wonderful, educational, and rewarding experience of her life. Try an Internet search for International Volunteer Opportunities
or visit a website such as www.globalvolunteers.org or www.iesc.org.
Cautions & Advice
Email and the Internet are wonderful inventions. Access across Southeast Asia is easy, cheap, and fast. Take advantage of them to smooth your trip arrangements and hold copies of