That looks like my worst nightmare.” This is one of the many shocked comments I got on my Instagram story when I posted images of my 25-plus course at Amisfield, just outside Queenstown on New Zealand’s South Island. I understood. Chef Vaughan Mabee’s food looks like the fantasies of a twisted taxidermist. Duck heads stare blankly at the ceiling. Deer antlers drip what appears to be blood. Severed green fish heads hold what looks like tiny ice-creams in their open mouths. It looks like Dark Mofo on a plate. A Guernica hellscape. A PETA protest waiting to happen.
What my friends couldn’t see through Instagram, though, is that every mouthful of this extraordinary
