National Geographic Traveller Food

STREETS AHEAD

PICHAYA ‘PAM’ SOONTORNYANAKIJ

Potong Potong has wasted no time in scooping up accolades since opening in 2021, having earned not only a Michelin star but the guide’s inaugural Opening of the Year Award (2023), as well as a spot on the Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list. Driving this success is Pichaya ‘Pam’ Soontornyanakij, whose ‘progressive Thai-Chinese’ cuisine, as she calls it, combines traditional and modern techniques. “I was born into a Thai-Chinese family but my culinary training was in New York and very Western-style,” she says. “When it came to Potong, I wanted to make something more personal.”

The result is a reimagining of Thai-Chinese dishes, such as five-spiced duck, aged for 14 days and roasted for 10 minutes to create a crispy bird with “intense duck flavour”,

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