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MELBOURNE

Moving into a building steeped in hospitality history can raise certain expectations, but for the team at Brico – a CarltonNorth restaurant and wine bar that’s opened in the footprints of Little Andorra and Tansy’s – it’s a badge of honour. “This building is famous for anyone that’s ever been in the Melbourne industry. It’s got such rich heritage,” says Brico co-owner Josh Begbie.

Paying tribute to the iconic Melbourne venues that came before Brico, was just part of the inspiration for the team.

They also drew on their love of European wine bars, as well as their collective experience, which spans London’s Brawn, Sydney’s Poly and 121 BC, and Melbourne’s Embla and Bar Liberty.

The name itself comes from a play on the French word “bricolage”, a creation made from a diverse range of available things, which is how the team likes to view their new endeavour. “We love places that have a sense of honesty to them. They’re not always the most polished or the fanciest venues. But there is a consideration in everything”, says Begbie, who is joined by co-owner Phil Bracey, and their respective partners Robyn Nethercote and Tegan Ella Hendel. The foursome first met while working together in London more than a decade ago.

On the food front, they’ve enlisted Tasmanian-born chef Simon Ball-Smith who’s worked at Franklin, The Builders Arms and Public Wine Shop. “Simon is willing to champion the produce, as we do with the wine,” says Begbie. Cue Sydney rock oysters with a bright white pepper mignonette; crudités with taramasalata; goat’s curd with marinated zucchini and lovage; and grilled McIvor Farm pork neck with apricot and fig. Wine is equally important at Brico, with Begbie and Bracey sharing sommelier duties. The list explores

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