DAINTREE, QLD TRAVEL
It is a spectacular landscape of rugged forest-clad ranges which plunge steeply to sandy beaches on the sparkling Coral Sea. This tropical wonderland is a 'living ark' of the earliest flowering plants and primitive marsupials, and home to one of the world's oldest Aboriginal cultures. At its heart stands Cape Tribulation, a prominent landmark in Australia's European history and an icon of modern-day conservation.
Highway through heaven
Travelling to and through the Daintree is an adventure in itself. From Cairns, the Captain Cook Highway hugs the stunning coastline as it weaves 90km to the Daintree River, the southern boundary of the national park. Crossing the river by ferry only takes 10 minutes but queues can cause long delays at busy times, especially during the peak season (July to September).
From the ferry crossing to Cape Tribulation, a 35km sealed road twists and rollercoasters through tunnels of trees, with glimpses of the Thornton Range rising to the west and palmfringed beaches to the east. It crosses several creeks, but causeways make the drive mostly floodproof in all but the most severe rain events. Drivers towing caravans should proceed with caution as the road is narrow and winding, and everyone needs to be alert for wildlife, especially cassowaries.
The bitumen ends 1.5km north of Kulki (Cape Tribulation), and gravel continues to Emmagen Creek. Beyond the creek, the Bloomfield Track is a challenging 33km adventure to Wujal Wujal on the Bloomfield River. It is strictly 4WD due to steep grades and creek crossings, which mayunsuitable for caravans and trailers. If you're determined to make the journey, be sure you visit the Bloomfield Falls, the Bana Yirriji Art and Cultural Centre in Wujal Wujal and the quirky Lion's Den Hotel.