Jimi Famurewa reviews Grasso: Mid-market mediocrity with all the glamour of Frankie & Benny’s
Grasso may have opened with minimal fanfare but there is basically nothing quiet about it. Magicked into the vast, new-built shell of a Dean Street Wagamama, it is an imitation red sauce joint that hits with all the subtlety of a big pizza pie.
Almost 200 covers sprawl across two floors of hectically mismatched retro art. “Disco toilets” throb with flashing lights and pummelling floor-fillers. There is the domed bulk of an-American Restaurant” — a vital indicator that (like the Dover, Alley Cats Pizza, Carlotta and more) here is a venture tapping into a dining trend that is suddenly hotter than an arrabbiata made for an enemy.
