Decanter

Ataste of the top 2022 Burgundies

1 Domaine des Comtes Lafon, Montrachet Grand Cru 99

This wine is among the greatest whites in Burgundy in 2022 (as is often the case), with a profusion of ripe tropical fruit, nectarine and peach aromas, accents of butter, soft white blossoms and spice. The texture is rich with extract and dense, yet there is lively acidity to balance the aromas and flavours perfectly through to a dynamic finish. Fortunately, the yield of this 0.33ha plot was 6.5 barrels in 2022, although Lafon will wait several years to bring it to market. Organic. Drink 2028-2070

Millemann Wines, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru 99

The Millemann family has taken every step to retain maximum freshness even in the torrid 2022 vintage, and has already racked wine into stainless steel to help preserve its vigour. Superb concentration of tropical and orchard fruit aromas are gently trimmed with hints of spice, fresh acacia flowers and beeswax. Amarvellous tension and intensity draw the wine to a neverending finish. After pressing and settling, the must is run into anew puncheon for fermentation and ageing without sulphur (until bottling). Areference for the appellation. Drink 2028-2070

WHITE WINE OF THE VINTAGE, TOP PRODUCER Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey, Montrachet Grand Cru 99

Pierre-Yves Colin has good reason to be delighted with the arrival to the portfolio of a tiny sliver of Montrachet from his family’s holdings. The wine is superb, with aromas of ripe nectarine, Williams pear and peach, suggestions of hawthorn flowers, spice and cream. The texture is rich without being heavy, and the freshness brings exquisite balance. The grapes come from 267 vines (0.0267ha) on the Chassagne side under Dent de Chien, planted at the highest part of Montrachet to give a rewardingly mineral result. Look out in six or seven years for release of the 220 bottles produced. Drink 2028-2070

Domaine Michel Niellon, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru 98

Awine of intense concentration, tension and focus, even in the warm conditions of 2022. Aroma notes of ripe apple, peach and quince,2025-2065

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