January releases: Howard’s 33 of the best Chablis 2020s
1 WINE OF THE VINTAGE & TOP QUALITY PRODUCER Domaine François Raveneau, Grand Cru Les Clos 98
From 40-to 50-year-old vines. A forceful nose displaying intriguing smoky notes. A wall of concentration on the palate, with vibrant tree fruit, white flowers, great acidity, intense focus and a long, mineral aftertaste. Despite the power it’s not showy, but is terroir-driven with total purity, and for the long haul. Drink 2024-2040 Alcohol 13%
2 TOP QUALITY PRODUCER Albert Bichot, Domaine Long-Depaquit, Moutonne, Grand Cru Monopole 97
As hoped for, another fantastic example of Moutonne, with intensity of pear and apple fruit and a faint tropical edge. Despite the concentration, the fruit is pure and the focused acidity keeps the palate fresh and wanting more. The oak is barely noticeable, and the wine finishes with a chalky, dry note which adds even more to the appeal. Very, very classy. Drink 2023-2037 Alc 13%
3 TOP QUALITY PRODUCER Domaine William Fèvre, Grand Cru Les Clos 97
Fèvre’s largest grand cru, with 4ha located higher up in Les Clos, meaning this is cooler-climate, with much more chalk than Kimmeridgian. Half of the vines were planted by William Fèvre’s father in the 1940s. Perfect balance between precision, concentration, acidity and ripe fruits, with oak that’s not at all apparent. A fresh, glorious wine. Drink 2025-2040 Alc 13.5%
