One of my biggest bugbears in cookbooks is dishonesty: being told it’ll take 10 minutes to caramelise onions when really it’s a good half hour, being offered substitutes for ingredients that don’t really live up to the original.
Tim Anderson’s seventh cookbook, , does none of that. Part cookbook, part manual, it’s a deep-dive into this lauded, ubiquitous Japanese dish – and now has me questioning every bowl I’ve ever eaten,
