Esquire

RESTAURANT OF THE YEAR

Ilis

BROOKLYN

OU COULD SELL THE IDEA OF ILIS ON PEDIGREE AND ambition alone. Mads Refslund, a cofounder of Noma, the mothership of New Nordic cuisine and an apex of luxe dining, bases his dream restaurant on a concept he’s been incubating for nearly a decade: Locally sourced ingredients and the Danish words for fire and ice.) It’s how prehistoric humans might have cooked, although a periodic puff of liquid nitrogen may emanate from the kitchen.

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