Wine Enthusiast Magazine

Spirits

S’MORE BOURBON

Charred, toasted or both, barrels make the bourbon.

Tell me how you like your marshmallow toasted, and I’ll tell you whether you prefer bourbon or brandy.

This challenge was issued around a campfire, as a round of s’mores (and hot toddies) marked the end of a spirits trade event. At first, it seemed like a ridiculous litmus test, until the challenger (Dan Farber, of Osocalis) elaborated.

“It’s about how the barrels are treated,” he explained. “The insides of brandy barrels are typically toasted, while the insides of bourbon barrels are always charred.” So, it follows that if you’re among those who prefer to thrust a marshmallow directly into the campfire flame so it blackens to a delightful gooey mess, you’re likely also a fan of the flavor that charred barrels can impart to bourbon.

Confounding the bourbon-vs.-brandy standoff…Boss Molly finishes its straight bourbon with toasted brandy staves.

Of course, sometimes it’s possible to get the best of both worlds. “Toasted oak” has increasingly become part of the bourbon lexicon, as a secondary finish after the required charred barrels, layering on lighter oak and spice flavors.

For example, Elijah Craig released a limited edition Toasted Barrel expression (not reviewed below), using toasted European oak to honor the 2023 Ryder Cup golf competition played between

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Jacqueline Strum EDITOR & PUBLISHER EXECUTIVE EDITOR John Capone TASTING DIRECTOR Anna-Christina Cabrales MANAGING EDITOR, DIGITAL Rachel Tepper Paley MANAGING EDITOR, PRINT Stacy Briscoe CONTRIBUTING EDITOR, FOOD Nils Bernstein SENIOR WEB PRODUCER S

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