Gourmet Traveller

Breathing space

The sun here fights nothing, absolutely nothing to reach you. It glows freely across the treasure-map landscape of Bullo River Station, utterly unimpeded by man-made distractions; wrapping sweet-faced wallabies in backlit halos and turning dancing grasses to waves of wheaten gold.

Come the sun’s last sigh at the end of each adventure-filled day in this north-western corner of the Northern Territory, we settle into the outdoor lounge area of the low-slung homestead for sundowners and story-swapping; cold glasses beading in warm, happy hands. The light comes in undulating, Fanta-orange tones, gradually turning rosella-red as it spreads from the impossibly wide horizon of this storied 400,000-acre cattle station, snaked through by the croc-populated Bullo River. As night descends, shades of violet frame majestic boabs, while lights strung like fat pearls above our communal dining table glint and gleam off the many wine glasses bedecking it. There is no background noise, save the occasional raucous

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