NEARLY A DECADE AGO, John Perkins quit hosting underground dinner concepts, hung up his caterer's apron, and opened Juniper, a Southern-inflected restaurant. Now, after a successful run, national accolades, and an undeniable impact on the St. Louis restaurant scene, Perkins finds himself at a crossroads that is somewhat similar and yet utterly different. This July, Perkins closed the chapter on Juniper to launch the fried chicken brand Sunday Best (401 Laclede). Decidedly more casual than its predecessor, the new concept is built around the glorious fried bird that put Juniper on the map and, Perkins hopes, will soon become synonymous with fried chicken in St. Louis. It's a leap he wanted to take, even if he admits it's as terrifying as it is exciting. “I have zero idea if this will work,” Perkins says. “I might end up failing, but I think I have a real shot to build something here.” —CHERYL BAEHR
It's funny