walk from the lighthouse, 659 steps along a broken path that eventually narrows into a thin point until I can no longer continue. The road drops off to form the top of a cliff. Over the sea, sunrays cut through ominous clouds; from the west, a storm approaches. I am in Estaca de Bares in Galicia, the northernmost point of the Iberian Peninsula. These waters are rarely calm, perhaps because the sea changes its name here: on my left the Atlantic
