LONDON • MOUNTAINBEAKSTREET.COM
Mountain, the new Soho restaurant from Welsh culinary hotshot Tomos Parry, has only been open a week when I visit, but my waiter nevertheless does what waiters do and asks whether I’ve been here before. And it’s not a ridiculous question, as — even after a mere seven days — Mountain has regulars, such as the woman at the next table, who’s already eaten here three times. Frankly, I can’t fault her life choices.
Occupying a large corner building looking out onto busy Beak Street, Mountain already has the confident feel of a Soho institution. The site was previously a Byron Burger, and long before that it was a cabaret club frequented by Christine Keeler. Now, it’s
