Gourmet Traveller

WESTERN AUSTRALIA

STATE WINNER

Millbrook

Old Chestnut La, Jarrahdale

(08) 9525 5796

millbrook.wine

Chef Guy Jeffreys & Justin Wong

Price guide $

Bookings Essential

Wheelchair access Yes

Open Lunch Thu-Mon

AUSTRALIAN

Lunch at Millbrook is saddled with considerable expectations, which only seem to build as you make the hour-long drive to this seachanger’s fantasy in the Perth Hills. Thankfully, the team is up to the task, from the cellar-door crew that bid you welcome to the cheery waitstaff that patrol the cosy upstairs dining room. The kitchen is also in on the act, highlighting ingredients grown in the property’s sprawling garden. Italy is a key influence; scallops get flash-cured in acqua-pazza-like fermented tomato water, while blistered porchetta slices share plate space with braised Calabrian white beans. A delicious frugality is also in effect. Foraged weeds are immortalised in a flaky spanakopita just as windswept mandarins become meringue-crowned curd. Snappy estate wines, like the buy-in, are priced so all can play, although beer side projects are becoming more regular on the drinks list. A lunch (and day trip) to be savoured.

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