WE MAY NEVER KNOW WHO invented chiles rellenos, that oozy, piquant, and beloved staple of Mexican and New Mexican cuisines. But in recent years, one thing’s for sure: Chefs across the state are both innovating and elevating this classic dish of roasted, stuffed, battered, and then fried chiles to impressive new heights.
An oft-told origin tale of chiles rellenos, which means “stuffed chiles,” credits the nuns of the Santa Monica convent in Puebla, Mexico, with the dish’s invention. The sisters cooked up an honorary meal of chiles en nogada for
