The road snakes steeply upwards towards the village of Erbusco, a few kilometres south of Lake Iseo. I’m in the Franciacorta wine region and I’m trying to find my hotel for the night. So far it eludes me.
Then, slowly, as I ease around a final curve, a wonderful villa atop a secluded hill reveals itself – surrounded by vineyards, ivycovered façades and turrets draped in sunshine and lilac wisteria. The sound of buzzy bees and the scent of wisteria drape like a mantle around my shoulders. I’ve arrived at L’Albereta – a19th-century former family home and now a five-star Relais & Châteaux hotel.
Inside, L’Albereta (www. ) is a labyrinth of contemporary design and elegance; an idyllic and tranquil setting with 38 rooms and a Henri Chenot spa and wellness centre. There are tennis courts, an indoor heated pool and a jacuzzi, with horseriding facilities and golf but a stone’s throw