It may be a first. Either way, let’s claim it. Two Australian chefs turned bakers, regenerative farmers, restaurateurs and hoteliers took out the 2023 Best Table award by Le Fooding, the go-to French restaurant, bar and eating guide. That was late last year, just months after James Henry and Shaun Kelly swung open the barn doors of Le Doyenné, a gloriously countrified, floor-to-ceiling glass dining room on the outskirts of Paris. They began feeding visitors directly with the bounty from their vegetable garden, fruit trees, greenhouse, chook shed and pigs.
Farm-to-table eating is a French focus, going back to the country’s culinary roots at a time when supporting and
