Los Angeles Times

At Mexico's gay cowboy conventions, men connect with each other — and their country's rugged past

ZACATECAS, Mexico — All night long, cowboys swaggered into a packed nightclub, dressed to impress in shiny boots, tight Wranglers and wide-brimmed hats. They had come to throw back tequila and Tecate, to sing along to blasting banda and to dance — chest-to-chest, legs entwined — with each other. Each spring, hundreds of men from across Mexico and the United States make a pilgrimage to this ...
Men dance into the evening at an annual gathering of gay vaqueros in Zacatecas, Mexico.

ZACATECAS, Mexico — All night long, cowboys swaggered into a packed nightclub, dressed to impress in shiny boots, tight Wranglers and wide-brimmed hats.

They had come to throw back tequila and Tecate, to sing along to blasting banda and to dance — chest-to-chest, legs entwined — with each other.

Each spring, hundreds of men from across Mexico and the United States make a pilgrimage to this colorful colonial city for an annual gathering of gay vaqueros — or cowboys. At private events held over a long weekend, they share carne asada and traditional folk dances and crown a cowboy king.

Pop music is forbidden. Instead, live bands play for hours, with musicians in matching suits churning out cumbia and Norteña hits as a sea of Stetsons fills the dance floor.

For Mariano Escobar, the lanky 51-year-old bar owner who hosted what he believes was Mexico's first gay cowboy convention here in Zacatecas 18 years ago, it's nothing short of heaven.

With his python boots and plaid shirt unbuttoned to reveal a plush tuft of gray chest hair, Escobar said the idea behind that first party was simple — if a bit self-interested.

"I like to dress like a cowboy," he said, "and I like guys who dress that way,

You’re reading a preview, subscribe to read more.

More from Los Angeles Times

Los Angeles Times2 min read
Editorial: Biden Expanded Two National Monuments In California. Three More To Go
President Joe Biden’s move Thursday to expand two national monuments in California is unquestionably good news for our climate and environment. One proclamation will increase the size of San Gabriel Mountains National Monument by nearly one third, ad
Los Angeles Times4 min read
Commentary: My Mother Set Herself On Fire. Why Do People Choose To Self-immolate?
Ten years before I was born, at 4:40 on the morning of Nov. 10, 1971, my mother and another woman sat “yogi-style” on the floor of an Ann Arbor, Michigan, kitchen and lit themselves on fire. They were just blocks from the University of Michigan campu
Los Angeles Times3 min readCrime & Violence
UCLA Detectives Use Jan. 6 Tactics To Find Masked Mob Who Attacked Pro-Palestinian Camp
LOS ANGELES — It is shaping up to be perhaps the biggest case in the history of the UCLA Police Department: how to identify dozens of people who attacked a pro-Palestinian camp at the center of campus last week. The mob violence was captured on live

Related Books & Audiobooks