Los Angeles Times

In Oaxaca, Mexico, love blooms again and again

OAXACA, Mexico - Sometimes we travel with a sense of urgency because over time something inside us has gone dim.

Years ago, that's what drew me to Oaxaca.

I lived alone in Oregon, a misty place where it was so rare to find anyone who looked like me I once chased down a stranger in the grocery store produce section and asked him to lunch because I heard him pronounce "mango" with a Spanish accent.

Starved for color, I booked a flight to this city in southwestern Mexico that I'd heard so much about. I had no way of knowing then just how much Oaxaca would wrap itself around my life for years to come, starting with the first phone call.

A friend suggested Las Bugambilias (lasbugambilias.com), a quaint bed-and-breakfast near the center of town, so I called to make a reservation. The woman on the phone said she was booked solid.

"This time of year," she told me, "you

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