Gourmet Traveller

FAMILIAL terroir

I’m tasting blood and iron and rose petals says wine buyer Isy Szyman, sitting back in reverie. The all-rounder at indie wine store Rathdowne Cellars has just sipped one of her ride-or-die Champagnes, the Egly-Ouriet Grand Cru Brut Rosé NV, poured at a masterclass special enough to draw 40 of Melbourne’s top sommeliers to Cutler & Co restaurant on a Monday afternoon.

The rosé is the sixth of 12 Egly-Ouriet Champagnes poured in four brackets of three to accompany an elegant, carefully matched five-course lunch by chef Jordan Clavaron. For the first hour, the air is electric. Bit by

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