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'It's not for the faint-hearted' — the story of India's intrepid women seaweed divers

In goggles and flipflops, they dive to harvest seaweed. It's risky work. They'll earn $3 to $6 a day. Now climate change and environmental rules make it harder to pursue the traditional profession.
Thangamma, about 80 years old, dives in to gather seaweed.

Early on a warm February morning, a group of ten women, ranging in age from 50 to 60, sit on the sandy shores of Akkal Madam beach on India's Pamban Island, carefully bandaging their fingers. Wearing colorful blouses and saris, they wind thick strips of cloth over each digit and secure the ends with string. It takes them over 20 minutes.

The bandages, they've found, are the best way to protect hands from sharp rocks on the seabed when they go underwater to dive for seaweed, which they sell to a local factory.

"This is how we get ready," says Bhagavathy. "We've tried gloves before, but they always slip away in the strong currents. And injuries are so common when your fingers are exposed."

Bhagavathy knows what she's talking about. Now in her mid-60s, she has been collecting seaweed since she was 7.

(Like the other seaweed divers interviewed for this story, she prefers to be referred to by her first name only, as is the custom in these parts).

To keep the rocks from tearing at their feet, the women wear rubber slippers. They strap on goggles since they'll be underwater with frequent dives each lasting up to 2-3 minutes over a 5-6 hour day. They're mastered the art of holding their breath during these dives.

"It's not for the faint-hearted.

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