Underwater
Anodes
These might be expensive, but don’t skimp on them – your underwater metals, from P-brackets to rudder bearings and seacocks, will thank you. As a general rule, you should replace any anode once it has reduced by about 50% in size.
■ Check the bonding wires to ensure a circuit is made.
■ Don’t forget the anode attached to the engine block – it might be out of view, but it’s extremely important.
■ Apply Loctite to the threads of your shaft anodes to stop them loosening. Silicone sealant applied to the recesses over the nut and bolt heads also helps.
■ Teardrop-shaped anodes bolted through the hull should be checked for any movement or leaks. Replace their bolts at the slightest hint of corrosion or wear. Remember, you may need to draw a bolt in order to examine it properly.
Through-hull fittings
There has been much debate regarding the use of seacocks made from ordinary brass or a bronze alloy that is susceptible to corrosion, potentially putting your boat at risk of sinking because of a failedtime to check them is while you’re out of the water. Check that the metal hasn’t gone pink, which would be a sign of dezincification, and that the metal is being eaten away (rub off corrosion with a wire brush, if necessary). If in doubt, replace the seacocks with DZR brass, bronze or plastic alternatives. Similarly, check the skin fitting and any bolts or threads for the same reason. If you’re unsure, give the hose or seacock a sharp tug to check the fitting doesn’t shear.
