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Brunello di Montalcino 2018: 40 wines leading the way

1 Canalicchio di Sopra, Vigna Montosoli 96

POA WoodWinters

The first release of this Montosoli bottling comes from the estate’s Filari Lunghi vineyard, a pebbly, northwest-facing plot reaching 255m. Aromas of heady rose, wet stone and fragrant porcini. Decidedly mineral-driven, the palate performs with precision and depth. It has fine-boned tannins, and the appetising finish lingers with a salivating stoniness. It’s impossible not to admire the elegance here. Drink 2024-2035 Alcohol 14.5%

Fuligni 96

US$124.99 Zachys

Led by Maria Flora Fuligni since 1971, with her long-time right-hand Dr Daniela Perino now the estate’s CEO. The 2018 epitomises the elegance of the vintage: captivating florals and earth, pressed violet, lavender and rose with truffle and tobacco accents. Flavours expand in the mouth, redcurrants and orange amplified by piercing acidity, and magnificently textured tannins chalky and adequately padded, giving layers and profundity. Not pushed beyond its capacity, this will drink beautifully over the next decade. Drink 2023-2034 Alc 14.5%

2 Il Marroneto, Grazie della Madonna 96

£300 (ib)-£362.68 Armit, Crump Richmond Shaw, Goedhuis & Co, Petersham Cellar, Turville Valley

Il Marroneto’s single-vineyard bottling is a selection of small loose bunches, manifested in the density of fruit and assuredness of structure, often with an earthy, autumnal countenance. The 2018 offers fragrances of chestnut and forest undergrowth juxtaposed with the vintage’s fruit sweetness. Layers of long, suede-like tannins wrap around fleshy black cherry. As it opens, subtle traces of pepper, leather and incense pledge more to come, embodying the most positive attributes of the vintage. Drink 2024-2036 Alc 14.5%

Castiglion del Bosco, Campo del Drago 95

£79.17 (ib) Bon Coeur

Facing southwest on galestro soil at 450m, Campo del Drago is typically the estate’s last vineyard to be picked. In 2018, it was harvested in mid-October, included about 30% whole bunches and aged in 70% large French oak casks and 30% barriques. It’s more brooding than the classic Brunello, with sweet spice and cedar-infused blackcurrant and plum. Full but not rich, it’s shored up by gravelly tannins and scores of acidity. The palate hints at

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