A taste of Tuscany’s new-release reds
Brunello di Montalcino
1 Fuligni 2016 99
£50 (ib)-£93.50 Christopher Keiller, Cru, Delivery Wine Co, Lea & Sandeman, Starling Wines, Vinum, Wineye
This historic property has released one of the most exquisite wines of 2016. Revealing its complexities gradually, it unfolds with a smoky flintiness, balsamic nuances and Mediterranean herbs. Seemingly endless in layers and depth, there is generosity but it never weighs the palate down. Powerful, finely powdered tannins, piercing acidity that radiates throughout. Hints of liquorice, violet, blood orange and iron emerge. Lengthy and effortlessly commanding. Drink 2024-2042 Alcohol 14.5%
2 Conti Costanti 2016 98
£79.99 Liberty Wines
Andrea Costanti follows up his gorgeously seductive 2015 with a stunningly refined and gracious 2016. Savoury earthy notes are accompanied by nuanced dried florals, citrus peel and pure red berries. It reaches profound depths on the palate where compact, ripe and dusty tannins promise a long cellaring life. It’s so seamlessly put together that it’s almost a shame to try teasing it apart. Drink 2024-2038 Alc 14%
Il Marroneto, Madonna delle Grazie 2016 98
£275 (ib)-£443.33 Armit, Cru, Millésima, Petersham Cellar, Starling Wines, VinQuinn, Wineye
Il Marroneto’s various lots are all similarly located at high altitude, on coarse sand of marine origin and predominantly north-facing. Aromas of dark, heady purple flowers tangled up in allspice and smoky incense. Muscular, its firm tannins grip and don’t let go, although it’s never brawny or hard-edged. Currently a mouthful of stones, it reveals a 2025-2042 14%
