A colony of fur seals scarpers out of the shallows and on to nearby rocks as our boat rounds Luncheon Cove in Tamatea Dusky Sound, in New Zealand’s remote Fiordland National Park.
Just as Captain James Cook did back in 1773, we think Luncheon Cove in the extreme southwest of the South Island is a good spot to lunch – so we moor and drop fishing lines over the side. Fish nibble as we catch a couple of desirable blue cod, a very fine tarakihi, more blue cod, and then – a sevengill shark as big as a grown woman.
Long before the arrived in Whetū, which Cook named Pickersgill Harbour, the
