BOOKSHELF SIR JOHNNY SCOTT
Colonel Peter Hawker, the father of wildfowling whose prowess as a Shot, while serving with the 14th Light Dragoons during the Peninsular Wars, earned him the soubriquet of Wellington’s Honorary Wildfowling Officer by the members of the duke’s staff, invented a sauce that can only have been intended to disguise the flavour of very high game.
It consisted of port, lemon juice, lemon rind, chopped shallots, pounded mace, coarse red pepper, strong vinegar, tarragon, thyme, brandy, grated horseradish and a healthy dollop of mushroom catsup. Hawker’s mushroom catsup, or ketchup, bore no resemblance to anything on sale today and was more a loose paste made
