In the pintxos bars of San Sebastián, in the Basque Country, the humble toothpick is more than a serving item, it’s culture defining. Where pintxo means “to spike”, the skewers in reference not only construct the self-service mouthfuls that keep drinkers drinking but are used to tally the bill before revellers move on to the next bar.
Of all these delicious, speared mouthfuls, it was the gilda that started it all. Named after the Rita Hayworth character in the 1946 film – for being spicy and salty – it
