Everest mountaineers have the Himalayan Base Camp, Patagonian sailors have Mar del Plata. It is the last significant town in Argentina before the coast gets more rugged and inhospitable; safe harbours are few and far between. Those who pass this point can expect to sail through the wilderness of the Roaring Forties and Furious Fifties. We stocked up on food and bought long, floating mooring lines to keep our boat clear of the rocks in narrow Patagonian inlets, known as caletas. Violent south-westerly storms can appear within no time, so we had planned our passage carefully. With a north-easterly wind forecast for the next four days it was time to face the challenges and head south.
We still had one hurdle to leap; bureaucracy. The Prefectura, the Argentinian coastguard, meticulously checks our boat and safety equipment. Only after they issue their stamp of approval can we leave the safety of the base camp. While leaving with sunshine and a light offshore breeze, we can’t help but worry a bit. Will we reach Puerto Madryn, our next destination, before a storm arrives? Barely. The town is at the head of a large natural bay, and the protection in strong winds proves to be questionable.
BARREN LANDSCAPE
As soon as the winds abated, we sailed on to Caleta Horno. Surrounded by steep rocks, this natural cove provided excellent shelter. There was no room to swing freely, so we put our long floating lines to use for is like a spider in her web and can comfortably deal with the williwaws that the next depression brings. The barren landscape is typical for the entire stretch of coast here, as the Andes mountains to the west keep the rain on the Chilean side.
